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oar painting   Message List  
Reply | Forward Message #350 of 427 |
Re: [youthrowing] oar painting

Well if you really want to get fancy, the toughest paint out there by far is Awlgrip or any other linear polyurethane paint.  Du Pont makes this product under the brand name Imeron.  If an LP paint is applied properly, it should easily last as long as the oar does. The oars will never get that bald spot on the back of the blades. 

The downside is that these paints are very expensive, north of $100 gallon, they are three part paints (paint, reducer and catalyst) and they cannot be brushed on.  Even with a spray gun, these paints are difficult to work with, and should be applied by someone who is an experienced painter.

In the past, I have done all the prep work on the oars, and masked the shafts with plastic wrap and then taken them to an autobody shop for the painting.  You can probably find someone who would do one color for about $20 per oar.  Expensive, but they will look great and the paint will literally last forever if you do a good job on the prep.

For stripes and other markings, I would suggest using vinyl.  I think the thick stuff is 0.8mm but I could be wrong on that.  It is the same stuff they use for lettering and such on signs.  You can buy it on the internet in partial rolls.  Again this stuff is very durable and its a lot easier to apply than painted stripes, square, chevrons, etc. You cut out the shapes you need and then squeegee them onto the blades.  Then use a razor blade to trim off any extra material.

Good Luck,

George


On Sep 4, 2008, at 1:40 PM, frankd@... wrote:

In my experience 2-Part enamels with UV resistance will give you the
longest lasting paint job. Using a spray gun will give you a lighter
coat (less weight) and smoother finish. A Brush is easier and less
time consuming and generally will hide more cosmetic flaws (because it
is thicker).

Many marine brush-on paints are 2-part enamels, as are many
automotive grade paints that you use with a spray gun. So both sets of
coaches are correct in choice of paint.

As most paint stores will tell you, how you prep the surface will
have an impact on your finished product.

- Hide quoted text -

On Thu, Sep 4, 2008 at 1:05 PM, sixseat7 <dblazo@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I've heard lots of theories about which paint to use and how to apply
> it. Some use weather beater outdoor house paint, some swear by spray
> paint versus brush on, some say brush on marine is the best. What do
> the other coaches out there find to be the longest lasting oar paint
> for coloring your blades?
>
> 




Thu Sep 4, 2008 9:35 pm

gdjenkins2000
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Message #350 of 427 |
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I've heard lots of theories about which paint to use and how to apply it. Some use weather beater outdoor house paint, some swear by spray paint versus brush...
sixseat7
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Sep 4, 2008
6:05 pm

I use Krylon. Drys very quickly and covers well. It's automotive grade so it's flexible and won't crack. You end up touching up each year but then you also...
Derek Parsons
crucoach
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Sep 4, 2008
6:23 pm

I used to use an automotive grade spray paint (and by spray I mean from a compressor with an airgun, not a spray can) and that worked well, but it was...
zoey@...
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Sep 4, 2008
6:43 pm

In my experience 2-Part enamels with UV resistance will give you the longest lasting paint job. Using a spray gun will give you a lighter coat (less weight)...
frankd@...
frankdolezal
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Sep 4, 2008
8:40 pm

Well if you really want to get fancy, the toughest paint out there by far is Awlgrip or any other linear polyurethane paint. Du Pont makes this product under...
George Jenkins
gdjenkins2000
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Sep 4, 2008
9:35 pm

I second the vinyl. Great prep job, and good base paint and then anything else, chevron, stripes, etc, it's easier to use vinyl. ... From: George Jenkins To:...
Monica Hilcu
mhilcu@...
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Sep 4, 2008
10:07 pm
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