Sue,

First ensure there isn't an equipment problem (i.e., pitch.) Check
the oarlock pitch through it's range of rotation and also the pitch on
the oar (particularly if the same oar is used in the same seat.) If the
rower is a novice, she will not recognize or know how easily a slight
pitch change can cause oar diving.

Ensure the oar's wear plates and/or oar sleeves are not excessively
worn (square edges versus rounded worn out edges.) Also ensure the
oarlocks are not excessively worn.

If a C2 oarlock, make sure the oarlock width is adjusted properly,
eliminating all of the "free-play" in the oarlock. The oar lock should
have just enough clearance to turn the oar without any excessive "play"
when half-way between feathered and square positions.

Might think about the MK1 oarlocks from Magik Rowing. These have a
pressure lever which helps set the oar sleeve into the oarlock seating
surfaces in both the squared and feathered position (provided one
doesn't use a death grip on the oar handle.) I have been using these
oarlocks since they came onto the rowing market in 2004 and from my
opinion they perform as advertised and help set the oar into position,
particularly in choppy water conditions.

Also Concept 2 has developed their "green oarlock sleeves" which have
a wider footprint (seating surface) than their older white sleeves if
you have C2 oars (can be retrofitted.) This increased sleeve width
helps the oar seat more solidly in the oarlock.

Any of the above would increase the "feel" of proper oarlock docking.

Other than equipment changes, the best approach would be proper
rowing technique. Focus on a relaxed grip on the oar handle to allow
the oar to fall into or set into it's seating surface in the oarlock
once it's rotated and/or pressure is applied to the blade. If proper
technique is learned the rower won't need to see the oar blade to know
it's position.

Otherwise if visual cue is absolutely necessary, mark the oar handle
where the rower might see it's orientation better within her range of
vision. Such as painting a stripe or line, tape, etc. on the topside of
the handle when the oar is in it's fully squared and fully feathered
position. However, this should be a temporary approach as this would
tend create another problem of rowing with her head down instead of up.

r/

-----Original Message-----
From: youthrowing@yahoogroups.com [mailto:youthrowing@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of susanxc
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 4:24
To: youthrowing@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [youthrowing] Adaptive rowing question

I have a highschool girl with low vision -- she can see close up but not
far enough to see her oar blade. She has never rowed before, but ergs
properly. We only have 4's to learn in (and I have an Alden double), and
she is having a terrible time telling when her blade is squared,
feathered, or over-feathered, causing it to dive under on the recovery.
Any suggestions beside teaching her to scull in the double? I have tried
'setting' her feathering hand position at the dock (she inevitably lets
go at some point), as well as trying to get her to feel the changes of
the collar in the oarlock. Thanks in advance.
-Sue