http://www.buggydepot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2135

2004 Yerf Dog GY6 FOR SALE!!

Simply selling because i need the money. Most modifications are in my signature.
$900.00 OBO just tryin to get the money i spent on it lately back out. Needs
battery. Also some carb work. If interested give me a call or text me at
1-972-948-1434 ask for Walter. Located in Moriarty, New Mexico. Thanks

2004 Yerf dog 3206
BDX Super strong ball joint kit
BDX Stage 1 Drivtrain upgrade package
BDX Stage 1 Engine upgrade package
BDX front shocks
Yamaha Blaster Rear shocks W/ homemade shackles
20x7-8 Trakz II Front tires
APS 5 3/8"x8" Steel rims, APS Hubs 5/8" Bearings 4x4
22x11-8 Kenda Dominator Rear tires
125 Main jet w/ 3/8 fuel lines
Jegs red seat cover
Custom 55w Headlight, and brake lights
Renforced Spindles
Renforced Bulkhed
Renforced Lower A-Arm tabs
Rebuilt Top End of Engine
39t torque sprocket, and Chain
115mm teflon coated variator, 10g rollers

okay i took it apart and this is what i found the head bolt nuts and little to
no force was used lossing them i then removed the rocker arm assy and removed
the cam i found a the beginning of a wiped out intake lobe it looks worn down
about 20 thousands it is the A10 cam i removed the head and found the headgasket
at the 6 oclock posistion a piece of the steel shim gasket not broke all the way
through it just looks like two ramps facing each other and split the valve seals
took some effort to get off and they fit snugly on the valve stems the guid feel
by hand placing the stem in and trying to move for slop i didnt feel anything
the cylinder has no visible cracks or tracing or tracking and niether does the
piston the ring all feel like they have different tensions i also saw no visable
cracks in the head or in the valve seats but i did find allot of oil stain on
and around the face of the exhaust valve i spoke to the guys over at blade
powersports we are
  thinking the head gasket for two reasons one the tourqe it took to remove the
head bolt nuts was minimal and on reassembly we are going to use blue locktight
and lock washers instead of the flat stock washers and second the head gasket
condition as far as the cam we are kinda stumped and are suspecting just a
failed part i scedual valve lash checks every 20 hrr of opperation because new
cams do normaly wear a tiny bit and the lash was set a 3 on both we going to use
a new spring that just came out and set lash at 5 with a bigger cam the A12 a
bit more duration about the same lift as the A10 and im going to go ahead and
replace the rings for good measure cause im just not sure of there condition and
we are going to use a thin film of casing sealer on all the gaskets and while i
have the head off im going to mill of the allowable limit of 25 thous off the
head match port the intake and exhaust my fmf pipe and arrestor i was soaked in
oil too by the way im
  also thinking of advancing the flywheel 10 degrees or getting cdi with a
ajustable advance  

--- On Mon, 10/19/09, Tom Knight <tbk860@...> wrote:


From: Tom Knight <tbk860@...>
Subject: Re: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, October 19, 2009, 10:15 AM


 



Is there an oil scraper ring on the piston and is it upside down or damaged.

--- On Sun, 10/18/09, hrubypg <hrubypg@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: hrubypg <hrubypg@yahoo. com>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 11:21 PM

Running a 114 main jet with big bore and stroker probably resulted in an overly
lean condition. You will need to pull the head and look for heat damage.

--- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, dave taylor <taylorteamracing@ ...>
wrote:
>
> k i have a modified gy6 150 i installed the stroker crank and a big bore kit
the larger carb the performance exhast a performance cam with spring and a 114
jet a racing clutch performance variator and a yellow spring in the drivin
clutch now it ran realy good and strong on the trails and the mud but here is
the problem my youngest boy took it out and i had to tow it back when i got it
home and was able to get it going smoke just pours out the exhaust within 30
seconds it will smoke you right out of the garage it stars normaly revs good now
when i checked to oil before starting it it was barly on the stick so i serviced
it now i have the smoke this build has about 70 hours on the build it dosent
start smoking right away it take about 10 or 15 seconds it makes me think a
problem with head but im not sure

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Is there an oil scraper ring on the piston and is it upside down or damaged.

--- On Sun, 10/18/09, hrubypg <hrubypg@...> wrote:


From: hrubypg <hrubypg@...>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 11:21 PM


Running a 114 main jet with big bore and stroker probably resulted in an overly
lean condition. You will need to pull the head and look for heat damage.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, dave taylor <taylorteamracing@...> wrote:
>
> k i have a modified gy6 150 i installed the stroker crank and a big bore kit
the larger carb the performance exhast a performance cam with spring and a 114
jet a racing clutch performance variator and a yellow spring in the drivin
clutch now it ran realy good and strong on the trails and the mud but here is
the problem my youngest boy took it out and i had to tow it back when i got it
home and was able to get it going smoke just pours out the exhaust within 30
seconds it will smoke you right out of the garage it stars normaly revs good now
when i checked to oil before starting it it was barly on the stick so i serviced
it now i have the smoke this build has about 70 hours on the build it dosent
start smoking right away it take about 10 or 15 seconds it makes me think a
problem with head but im not sure



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

what i did with that is working with blade powersports on nailing down the jet
is serveral wide open throtle runs was done to check the plug coloration and the
recomended size was was the 114
--- On Sun, 10/18/09, hrubypg <hrubypg@...> wrote:


From: hrubypg <hrubypg@...>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 11:21 PM


 



Running a 114 main jet with big bore and stroker probably resulted in an overly
lean condition. You will need to pull the head and look for heat damage.

--- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, dave taylor <taylorteamracing@ ...>
wrote:
>
> k i have a modified gy6 150 i installed the stroker crank and a big bore kit
the larger carb the performance exhast a performance cam with spring and a 114
jet a racing clutch performance variator and a yellow spring in the drivin
clutch now it ran realy good and strong on the trails and the mud but here is
the problem my youngest boy took it out and i had to tow it back when i got it
home and was able to get it going smoke just pours out the exhaust within 30
seconds it will smoke you right out of the garage it stars normaly revs good now
when i checked to oil before starting it it was barly on the stick so i serviced
it now i have the smoke this build has about 70 hours on the build it dosent
start smoking right away it take about 10 or 15 seconds it makes me think a
problem with head but im not sure



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Running a 114 main jet with big bore and stroker probably resulted in an overly
lean condition. You will need to pull the head and look for heat damage.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, dave taylor <taylorteamracing@...> wrote:
>
> k i have a modified gy6 150 i installed the stroker crank and a big bore kit
the larger carb the performance exhast a performance cam with spring and a 114
jet a racing clutch performance variator and a yellow spring in the drivin
clutch now it ran realy good and strong on the trails and the mud but here is
the problem my youngest boy took it out and i had to tow it back when i got it
home and was able to get it going smoke just pours out the exhaust within 30
seconds it will smoke you right out of the garage it stars normaly revs good now
when i checked to oil before starting it it was barly on the stick so i serviced
it now i have the smoke this build has about 70 hours on the build it dosent
start smoking right away it take about 10 or 15 seconds it makes me think a
problem with head but im not sure

k i have a modified gy6 150 i installed the stroker crank and a big bore kit the
larger carb the performance exhast a performance cam with spring and a 114 jet a
racing clutch performance variator and a yellow spring in the drivin clutch now
it ran realy good and strong on the trails and the mud but here is the problem
my youngest boy took it out and i had to tow it back when i got it home and was
able to get it going smoke just pours out the exhaust within 30 seconds it will
smoke you right out of the garage it stars normaly revs good now when i checked
to oil before starting it it was barly on the stick so i serviced it now i have
the smoke this build has about 70 hours on the build it dosent start smoking
right away it take about 10 or 15 seconds it makes me think a problem with head
but im not sure

--- On Sun, 10/18/09, dave taylor <taylorteamracing@...> wrote:


From: dave taylor <taylorteamracing@...>
Subject: Re: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 7:56 PM


 



what i just experianced on mine is the drivin clutch nut backed off and it just
screwed up the clutch timing it would start unless the wheels was off the ground
onces i took the clutch apart ( be carefull allot of tension ) i put it all back
together and dunt dunt daaaaa it worked fine

--- On Sun, 10/18/09, ss454_1972 <ss454_1972@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: ss454_1972 <ss454_1972@yahoo. com>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 5:50 PM

 

it wont hardley idle there is way to much tension on the belt if I pick up the
back end it starts spining the tires what is wrong??

--- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, "TravisC" <travis@...> wrote:
>
> 743-20-30 is the correct belt. The CVT drive is designed to ride the belt
tight without any slip, however a turned roller may cause problems. Let us know
if you experience any problems getting the kart going from a stop.
>
> Travis
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@ > wrote:
> >
> > Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new
belt 743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what
belt sixe it should be
> >
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

what i just experianced on mine is the drivin clutch nut backed off and it just
screwed up the clutch timing it would start unless the wheels was off the ground
onces i took the clutch apart ( be carefull allot of tension ) i put it all back
together and dunt dunt daaaaa it worked fine

--- On Sun, 10/18/09, ss454_1972 <ss454_1972@...> wrote:


From: ss454_1972 <ss454_1972@...>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Re: drive belt
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 5:50 PM


 




it wont hardley idle there is way to much tension on the belt if I pick up the
back end it starts spining the tires what is wrong??

--- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, "TravisC" <travis@...> wrote:
>
> 743-20-30 is the correct belt. The CVT drive is designed to ride the belt
tight without any slip, however a turned roller may cause problems. Let us know
if you experience any problems getting the kart going from a stop.
>
> Travis
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@ > wrote:
> >
> > Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new
belt 743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what
belt sixe it should be
> >
>



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The forward shaft is the crank. On the crank is the variator with rollers
inside. You must make sure that the rollers are positioned so they roll from the
center out. Most likely these rollers were dislodged when the old belt broke and
were not put back in place.

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-center/150cc/Yerf-Dog-Blade-GY6-Buggies-Par\
ts/15/

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@...> wrote:
>
>
> it wont hardley idle there is way to much tension on the belt if I pick up the
back end it starts spining the tires what is wrong??
>
>
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "TravisC" <travis@> wrote:
> >
> > 743-20-30 is the correct belt. The CVT drive is designed to ride the belt
tight without any slip, however a turned roller may cause problems. Let us know
if you experience any problems getting the kart going from a stop.
> >
> > Travis
> >
> >
> > --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new
belt 743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what
belt sixe it should be
> > >
> >
>

it wont hardley idle there is way to much tension on the belt if I pick up the
back end it starts spining the tires what is wrong??




--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "TravisC" <travis@...> wrote:
>
> 743-20-30 is the correct belt. The CVT drive is designed to ride the belt
tight without any slip, however a turned roller may cause problems. Let us know
if you experience any problems getting the kart going from a stop.
>
> Travis
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new
belt 743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what
belt sixe it should be
> >
>

743-20-30 is the correct belt. The CVT drive is designed to ride the belt tight
without any slip, however a turned roller may cause problems. Let us know if you
experience any problems getting the kart going from a stop.

Travis


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "ss454_1972" <ss454_1972@...> wrote:
>
> Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new belt
743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what belt
sixe it should be
>

Hi we have a yerf dog cart just like the one on the home page I got a new belt
743x20x30 is this the right one it seems very tight does anybody know what belt
sixe it should be

Here is a troubleshooting guide. Let us know what you find:

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-center/150cc/GY6-Ignition-Starting-Problems\
-No-Spark/6/

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "freakychef" <freakychefb@...> wrote:
>
>   OK I changed the bearings, took it fo a spin the other day. Now I try to
start it, and nothing. I charged the battery overnight. checked all the plus and
wiring. and still not even a squeek when I try to start it. any ideas?
>

Start by cleaning the carburetor and making sure fuel is passing through the
filter:

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-center/150cc/GY6-150cc-carburettor-cleaning\
-guide/10/

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "freakychef" <freakychefb@...> wrote:
> Thanks for the input, I had to buy another bearing. got it on and running. Now
if anyone has any ideas on the backfiring.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "freakychef" <freakychefb@...> wrote:
>
>  I bought the front whel bearing replacement for my 3206. how do I put it in
the rim? Do I need to pull the broken one out? do I put it in from the front or
the back? help!!!
>
Thanks for the input, I had to buy another bearing. got it on and running. Now
if anyone has any ideas on the backfiring.

OK I changed the bearings, took it fo a spin the other day. Now I try to start
it, and nothing. I charged the battery overnight. checked all the plus and
wiring. and still not even a squeek when I try to start it. any ideas?

There should be an inner and outer bearing on each front wheel. you will need to
pull to them out and insert the new ones with smaller part of the offset
sticking outside (there should be a retainer ring on each bearing to prevent it
from being inserted too far. When tightening the nut on the spindle, make sure
you do not over tighten and push the bearings further into the wheel.

pull the old bearing out the put the new one in from the out side there should
be 2 bearings per wheel on inner one outer




________________________________
From: freakychef <freakychefb@...>
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 5:42:43 PM
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] front wheel bearing.

 
I bought the front whel bearing replacement for my 3206. how do I put it in the
rim? Do I need to pull the broken one out? do I put it in from the front or the
back? help!!!







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I bought the front whel bearing replacement for my 3206. how do I put it in the
rim? Do I need to pull the broken one out? do I put it in from the front or the
back? help!!!

what is the biggest size engine that can be placed in a 3209 go kart. I
currently have a 150 cc in now.  Also it is not ideling right.  THe more gas i
give it the slower it runs.  Any help on this problem?

I didn't lose any torque, I gained it especially off idle.  I could even start
to break the tires free with a little brake torquing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rechargeable-High-Speed-Alternator-Kit-GY6-Scooter_W0QQitemZ\
250336244479QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a4933f2ff&_trksid=p3\
286.m20.l1116

This is sort of like what I got, can't tell the stator size but the lighter
flywheel does make a difference.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <hrubypg@...> wrote:
>
> If it is a lighter flywheel, the engine will change RPMs easier but have more
trouble maintaining them under varying loads.How much climbing did you lose? I
would suggest stiffer clutch arm springs to allow the engine to spool up more
before engagement.
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@> wrote:
> >
> > Definitely was not a 4 pole, was advertised as being higher output.  The
flywheel was about half the weight
> > .
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <hrubypg@> wrote:
> > >
> > > If it was the 4-pole "racing" stator, forget about running any lights
since it only puts out enough power for battery charging and ignition.I went
with an 11-pole stator so I could run over 150w of lights.
> > >
> > > --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Anyone else replace the rotor/stator?  It was advertised as a high
output unit with about 50% weight reduction in rotational mass.  It was a bolt
in and work great, I noticed an increase in power from idle on up.  I wish I had
the style, but it was aftermarket and I found it on ebay.
> > > >
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

If it is a lighter flywheel, the engine will change RPMs easier but have more
trouble maintaining them under varying loads.How much climbing did you lose? I
would suggest stiffer clutch arm springs to allow the engine to spool up more
before engagement.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@...> wrote:
>
> Definitely was not a 4 pole, was advertised as being higher output.  The
flywheel was about half the weight
> .
>
> Steve
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <hrubypg@> wrote:
> >
> > If it was the 4-pole "racing" stator, forget about running any lights since
it only puts out enough power for battery charging and ignition.I went with an
11-pole stator so I could run over 150w of lights.
> >
> > --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone else replace the rotor/stator?  It was advertised as a high output
unit with about 50% weight reduction in rotational mass.  It was a bolt in and
work great, I noticed an increase in power from idle on up.  I wish I had the
style, but it was aftermarket and I found it on ebay.
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> >
>

Definitely was not a 4 pole, was advertised as being higher output.  The
flywheel was about half the weight
.

Steve

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <hrubypg@...> wrote:
>
> If it was the 4-pole "racing" stator, forget about running any lights since it
only puts out enough power for battery charging and ignition.I went with an
11-pole stator so I could run over 150w of lights.
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone else replace the rotor/stator?  It was advertised as a high output
unit with about 50% weight reduction in rotational mass.  It was a bolt in and
work great, I noticed an increase in power from idle on up.  I wish I had the
style, but it was aftermarket and I found it on ebay.
> >
> > Steve
> >
>

If it was the 4-pole "racing" stator, forget about running any lights since it
only puts out enough power for battery charging and ignition.I went with an
11-pole stator so I could run over 150w of lights.

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <scr71822@...> wrote:
>
> Anyone else replace the rotor/stator?  It was advertised as a high output unit
with about 50% weight reduction in rotational mass.  It was a bolt in and work
great, I noticed an increase in power from idle on up.  I wish I had the style,
but it was aftermarket and I found it on ebay.
>
> Steve
>

Anyone else replace the rotor/stator?  It was advertised as a high output unit
with about 50% weight reduction in rotational mass.  It was a bolt in and work
great, I noticed an increase in power from idle on up.  I wish I had the style,
but it was aftermarket and I found it on ebay.

Steve

I have a brand new 3206 rear axle for sale.  I am asking $125 plus shipping to
you.  I also have a nearly new rear disk brake rotor, just light pad marks no
grooves.  I am asking $7.00 plus shipping.

You can email me at scr71822$yahoo.com with any questions.  I have an ebay ID of
scr71822 you can search for my feedback.  I live in IL Zip code 60085, use that
to calculate shipping.

Steve

Erin, the stock Howhit engine was rated at 7.8 hp/7500 rpm.  If you go above
8hp, you may have to change the torque converter to handle the extra
horsepower.  See:
http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/aftermarket-torque-converters.asp.  I've
read that YerfDog 3206 models either have a 30 series or 40 series Comet
torque converter.  The 30 can handle up to 8hp and the 40 series up to 25.
You can search the messages at the home page/database for engine changes.
My other concerns would be the added weight, the axle's ability to handle
the power, and if the welded frame over the existing engine would allow your
Kawasaki to fit.

Bob



From: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com [mailto:yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ERIN
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 9:29 AM
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Different engine








Has anyone tried to put a different engine on the yerfdog 150? I have a
Kawasaki 18hp v-twin lawnmower engine that is in great sgape and I was
wondering if it has ever been done adn also how much horsepower the stock
engine has.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Has anyone tried to put a different engine on the yerfdog 150? I have a Kawasaki
18hp v-twin lawnmower engine that is in great sgape and I was wondering if it
has ever been done adn also how much horsepower the stock engine has.

go to        http://www.bladepowersports.com/store.asp    they are auwsum very
helpfull down to earth for example i bought a carter gy6 150 cc buggy and what a
flippin dog it was
the thing would get stuck in 3 inches of mud no hill climb power and toped out
at 20 mph for 600 bucks i bought a stroker crank that cam with the rod and a big
bore kit piston rings and clips and mathed piston a cam with a gear a fmf
exhuast system a new performance variator and rollers with diferent weights a
peformance spring for the drivin clutch a 30mm pumper carb a performance intake
and bing what a differance im going through just about anything if the buggy
gets stuck its because its bottomed out it tops out and 39 mph then i ran out of
trail and hit the brakes they have excellent prices and the best thing is they
warranty everything they sell call and ask for stewart they now have a big bore
high flow head ill be getting next i took the 150 to just over 200 cc and you
feel it  

--- On Sat, 6/27/09, Tom Knight <tbk860@...> wrote:


From: Tom Knight <tbk860@...>
Subject: Re: [yerfdoggx150] Part Recommendations?
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 27, 2009, 9:01 AM








 I removed and modified the battery box so that it would fit a battery I bought
at Walmart. I also had to make a longer strap using boat top clips. The kind
that are used for the straps with a hook end. I just used them backwards and
used the end where the strap goes through to hook onto the battery box end.(
make sense?). As for the muffler I silver soldered a sweat/thread fitting to the
end of the pipe and am using a screw on Briggs lawn mower muffler rated for 20
hp. Not sure a bout the belt, havn't had that problem yet.

--- On Wed, 6/24/09, bobbatyerfdog <1bobbat@earthlink. net> wrote:

From: bobbatyerfdog <1bobbat@earthlink. net>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Part Recommendations?
To: yerfdoggx150@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 2009, 2:25 PM

After five years of daily use pulling the heavy manure spreader, I need to
replace some original parts as a precaution:  The battery (cranking slower),
muffler (getting louder), and converter belt (more jerky).  Any suggestions on
replacing other parts?  Any recommendation on where to get the one I listed? 
Thanks
Bob at Beauty's Haven Farm and Equine Rescue, Inc.  See: http://www.beautyse
quinerescue. org/

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 I removed and modified the battery box so that it would fit a battery I bought
at Walmart. I also had to make a longer strap using boat top clips. The kind
that are used for the straps with a hook end. I just used them backwards and
used the end where the strap goes through to hook onto the battery box end.(
make sense?). As for the muffler I silver soldered a sweat/thread fitting to the
end of the pipe and am using a screw on Briggs lawn mower muffler rated for 20
hp. Not sure a bout the belt, havn't had that problem yet.

--- On Wed, 6/24/09, bobbatyerfdog <1bobbat@...> wrote:


From: bobbatyerfdog <1bobbat@...>
Subject: [yerfdoggx150] Part Recommendations?
To: yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 2009, 2:25 PM


After five years of daily use pulling the heavy manure spreader, I need to
replace some original parts as a precaution:  The battery (cranking slower),
muffler (getting louder), and converter belt (more jerky).  Any suggestions on
replacing other parts?  Any recommendation on where to get the one I listed? 
Thanks
Bob at Beauty's Haven Farm and Equine Rescue, Inc.  See:
http://www.beautysequinerescue.org/



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

After five years of daily use pulling the heavy manure spreader, I need to
replace some original parts as a precaution:  The battery (cranking slower),
muffler (getting louder), and converter belt (more jerky).  Any suggestions on
replacing other parts?  Any recommendation on where to get the one I listed? 
Thanks
Bob at Beauty's Haven Farm and Equine Rescue, Inc.  See:
http://www.beautysequinerescue.org/