Not real sure in your case,but, when I changed to a larger(14hp
Vanguard)powerplant on Monster Dog, I ran in to the same type
problem. My fix was to go to Home Depot and buy a pipe nipple long
enough to clear the mounting plate. Threads in engine block were
standard pipe threads.  Then I added a coupler and plug to complete
the fix. Takes just a tad more oil to reach full mark but draining
oil is now simple and mess less.
  This system might work for other Doggers?

   Taztoo

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "bradhingle" <bhingle@c...>
wrote:
> Just bought a Spiderbox from Sam's on 12/23/03. After five hours of
> running, I changed the oil. I could not get a 11/16 socket and the
> rachet on the right side oil plug without removing the plate below
> the plug. I could not get it loose with a box end much less with an
> open end wrench. Once I had the plate out of the way, I was able to
> remove the drain plug with a 6 point 11/16 socket. Is there a way
to
> remove this plug without having to remove this plate. Has anyone
> punched a hole in the plate below the drain plug, just big enough
to
> drop the drain plug through it?
>
> I removed the left side drain plug with out removing the plate
below
> it, but oil runs all over that plate. Does anyone know of a better
way
> to do an oil change?
>
> I really don't want to have to remove the plates below the drain
> plugs every 30 days just to change the oil. I will if I have to,
but
> if there is a quicker way, let me hear it.
>
> What's the best way to lube the chain?
>
> Brad

Thanks Edward for all your help. I understand what you are saying
but dont give up on the advice department.My front shock change has
made a dramatic effect both in ride and steering(turn radius reduced
maybe 10 feet.)I expect the back shocks to improve it just as much.
Without your help I would have over shot the maximum length and
wasted money. People should read later post because we are constantly
looking to improve. There is nothing wrong with striving to better a
great cart.My wife complains too. But hey I ask her if she had rather
me toy with the cart or a corvette and she just smiles.Happy New Year
to All!God Bless!

I forgot to mention that after backflushing your filter, be sure to
reverse it back the way it was before re-attaching your fuel lines.
There might be some small particles still stuck in the filter.. you
don't want those being released and flowing to the carb.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "keyturbocars"
<keyturbocars@y...> wrote:
> Sure sounds like the gas tank vent.  I was having almost the same
> problem when I first got mine, and then I realized that I needed
to
> open the vent more.  Sounds like you've already thought about the
> vent.  Have you unscrewed the vent ALL the way?
>
> Have you checked your fuel filter?  You could clamp your fuel line
> upstream of the filter, remove both hoses from the filter, reverse
> your filter, plug it into the top hose going to the tank, and then
> release the clamp and let the fuel run through the filter
> backwards.  Be sure to catch the fuel coming out of the open end
of
> the filter in a can or something.  This should backflush your
filter
> and you should see if there is any junk that comes out in the can
> that might be a sign of a blockage.  Just an idea of something
else
> you might try.
>
> Hope you come to the bottom of this soon,
>
> Edward
> Yerf Dog 3206
> http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, stcokyza1 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> > Christmas day.  After running the kart for about ten minutes it
> > stalls and won't restart.  After waiting a minute it restarts
and
> > runs fine until about another ten minutes or faster run.  I
> already
> > dealt with the vent in the gas cap and tightened coil wires as
> > mentioned in previous threads.  Any ideas?

Sure sounds like the gas tank vent.  I was having almost the same
problem when I first got mine, and then I realized that I needed to
open the vent more.  Sounds like you've already thought about the
vent.  Have you unscrewed the vent ALL the way?

Have you checked your fuel filter?  You could clamp your fuel line
upstream of the filter, remove both hoses from the filter, reverse
your filter, plug it into the top hose going to the tank, and then
release the clamp and let the fuel run through the filter
backwards.  Be sure to catch the fuel coming out of the open end of
the filter in a can or something.  This should backflush your filter
and you should see if there is any junk that comes out in the can
that might be a sign of a blockage.  Just an idea of something else
you might try.

Hope you come to the bottom of this soon,

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, stcokyza1 <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> Christmas day.  After running the kart for about ten minutes it
> stalls and won't restart.  After waiting a minute it restarts and
> runs fine until about another ten minutes or faster run.  I
already
> dealt with the vent in the gas cap and tightened coil wires as
> mentioned in previous threads.  Any ideas?

Thanks Lance for your kind words.  Glad to have you in the Group.

It's amazing how fast our group has been growing.  Our Group started
on Nov 30th, and now 1 month later we are already at 120 members!
That's fast growth for a new group dealing with a brand new kart.  I
expect that this group will really explode in the next year!

All the Best in the New Year!

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "checy66l" <checy66l@y...>
wrote:
> good resolution.  i need to do that myself.  hope it goes your
way.
> thanks for all the effort put towards this group.  i get on
everyday
> just to read the post and check for new pics.  there has been alot
> of people join and when a problem comes up that has been addressed
> already yall always reply to them and try to solve the problem.
> thats what i like.  you know you can come here to get help with a
> problem and everybody learns something.  good group.  glad to be a
> part of it.
> everyone have a happy new year and God bless you all.
>
> lance

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "keyturbocars"
<keyturbocars@y...> wrote:
> Well, I've already decided that I don't plan to try and source
> upgrades for the 3206 & 3209.  Being New Year's Eve, I was
thinking
> about a lot of things, and I was looking to the year ahead...
>
> The last thing I need is to add more stress and busyness in my
> life.  I've got 4 young children that need more of my attention,
and
> I don't need to be creating more stuff for myself to do!!
>
> Sorry about a "false alarm"... I have been thinking about upgrades
> for the 3206 and 3209 for quite a while now, but I just came to
the
> realization that it's just not worth trying to source them and
offer
> them to the group.  I don't need the extra work.
>
> I deleted my previous messages related to this topic because I
> didn't want people in the future to stumble across one of those
> posts while searching the archives, and then I might get a bunch
of
> e-mails saying: "I want to buy some shocks".  :)
>
> HAPPY NEW YEARS!  One of my New Year's resolutions... spend more
> time with the wife and kids and less time creating more work for
> myself!
>
> Edward
> Yerf Dog 3206
> http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm




good resolution.  i need to do that myself.  hope it goes your way.
thanks for all the effort put towards this group.  i get on everyday
just to read the post and check for new pics.  there has been alot
of people join and when a problem comes up that has been addressed
already yall always reply to them and try to solve the problem.
thats what i like.  you know you can come here to get help with a
problem and everybody learns something.  good group.  glad to be a
part of it.
everyone have a happy new year and God bless you all.

lance

Christmas day.  After running the kart for about ten minutes it
stalls and won't restart.  After waiting a minute it restarts and
runs fine until about another ten minutes or faster run.  I already
dealt with the vent in the gas cap and tightened coil wires as
mentioned in previous threads.  Any ideas?

Well, I've already decided that I don't plan to try and source
upgrades for the 3206 & 3209.  Being New Year's Eve, I was thinking
about a lot of things, and I was looking to the year ahead...

The last thing I need is to add more stress and busyness in my
life.  I've got 4 young children that need more of my attention, and
I don't need to be creating more stuff for myself to do!!

Sorry about a "false alarm"... I have been thinking about upgrades
for the 3206 and 3209 for quite a while now, but I just came to the
realization that it's just not worth trying to source them and offer
them to the group.  I don't need the extra work.

I deleted my previous messages related to this topic because I
didn't want people in the future to stumble across one of those
posts while searching the archives, and then I might get a bunch of
e-mails saying: "I want to buy some shocks".  :)

HAPPY NEW YEARS!  One of my New Year's resolutions... spend more
time with the wife and kids and less time creating more work for
myself!

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm

I believe that the stock Honda 400EX wheels are centered as well.
The wheels I'm using are Douglas .125's. I'm not sure what the
offset is offhand. But the rear is about 2" wider with them on it.



--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Brianstrange"
<brian.strange@n...> wrote:
> what is the honda wheel offset? The Stock dog uses centered wheels
>
>
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "azraptoraz"
<vanceracing@c...>
> wrote:
> > It's a Honda pattern. 4 on 110. I'm using the paddles off my
400EX
> > for the dunes on my 3206.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Brianstrange"
> > <brian.strange@n...> wrote:
> > > does anyone have the factory spec bolt pattern for the rear of
> the
> > > 3206 or 3209?
> > >
> > > It looks like 4 on 115

Darrell,

The grease idea makes good sense to me.  If there is any movement in
the splined joint, then the grease could help prevent galling of the
hub or shaft.  If nothing else, the grease would also help prevent
rust which can mess up the splines over time (and make it a pain to
remove the hub).

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, Darrell Way
<tkat13_racing@y...> wrote:
> I actually found the same thing with mine this weekend. I was able
to torque done mine without any spacers. Guess I was lucky. I also
added wheel bearing grease to the splines. I have been told that
this is the thing to do so the spline/hubs last longer.
>
> just my 2 cents.
>
> keyturbocars <keyturbocars@y...> wrote:
> This morning I was up early and tinkering on my 3206 while the
rest
> of the family was still sleeping.  I accidently ran across
something
> that I thougt is worth mentioning to you all.  Other karts may
have
> this same issue...
>
> I had the rear of my kart jacked off the ground and I was spinning
> the wheels to help distribute the chain lube that I was spraying.
> While I was spinning the passenger side wheel, I noticed that it
was
> rattling around a little.  I checked the driver's side wheel and
> found the same.  I then found that both of the big, center axle
nuts
> that hold the hubs to the axle were loose.  Good thing these nuts
> are secured with cotter pins so they can not totally fall off.
>
> The rear hubs are keyed to the rear axle with splines.  With the
nut
> loose, the rear hubs can rattle around on the splines and
eventually
> I would expect this movement (even small) could damage the splines
> in the cast hub.  Besides, rear wheels that are allowed to rattle
> around are not going to do any good!  So, I would recommend that
you
> check these rear nuts on your kart and make sure they are tight.
>
> The issues with cotter pin secured nuts is that your final torqued
> position must end so that the hole through the axle lines up with
> one of the slots in the end of the nut; otherwise, you won't be
able
> to put the cotter pin through it.  In my case, I just decided to
add
> a couple thin shim washers (5/8" ID) and then I was able to torque
> the nuts real tight and still be able to have the cotter pins work.
>
> DON'T OMIT THE COTTER PINS!  They are an important safety
feature.
> If my kart didn't have the cotter pins, I would have probably lost
a
> rear wheel at a most inconvenient time!
>
> As an extra measure of safety, I also put loc-tite on the threads.
>
> Edward
> Yerf Dog 3206
> http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm
>
>
>
>
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I am selling the stock rear tires and front tires and front wheels
(less bearings). They have less than 1 hr on them

they will be available in about two weeks.

If interested, email me at brian.strange@...

A while back, some of us were also wondering if it could be Standard
Motor Corporation in Taiwan, but we discovered that it is not.
There are many different companies that make clones of these
engines.  There are many companies in China and Taiwan that
manufacture engines like this that look almost identical, but they
have slight variations.

The most accurate information that I found was that these engine are
made in a factory in China that may be linked with the Aeon Motor
Company of Taiwan.  Aeon of Taiwan makes the 150cc engine (very
similar to the Howhit) that Yerf Dog uses in their Rover compact
utility vehicle.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "jwnici2000" <jwnici@c...>
wrote:
> found what I believe to be the manufacturer of the engine/cvt in
our
> carts for future reference www.standardmoto.com/eng it is the GAT
> 150. GAT lists a 125 and 150cc along with specs, bore and stroke
> etc, curiously they list HP as 11 not 9. I will post a pic of the
> engine shortly

just got off the phone with yerf dog.  she said the gas cap only will
be shipped fri.  i also asked about my service manual.  she didnt
know where it would be in shipping so she put another with my cap.
takes awhile on hold to get someone but they will answer the phone.
got my tach and hour meter in today.  ready to install and check that
out.  got some 5/8" sponge neoprene today also to put under the jegs
seat covers.  that should fell like a caddy.  got stuff for floor
board idea too should work out good.  ill post pics later of that.

what is the honda wheel offset? The Stock dog uses centered wheels




--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "azraptoraz" <vanceracing@c...>
wrote:
> It's a Honda pattern. 4 on 110. I'm using the paddles off my 400EX
> for the dunes on my 3206.
>
>
>
>
> --- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Brianstrange"
> <brian.strange@n...> wrote:
> > does anyone have the factory spec bolt pattern for the rear of
the
> > 3206 or 3209?
> >
> > It looks like 4 on 115

I actually found the same thing with mine this weekend. I was able to torque
done mine without any spacers. Guess I was lucky. I also added wheel bearing
grease to the splines. I have been told that this is the thing to do so the
spline/hubs last longer.

just my 2 cents.

keyturbocars <keyturbocars@...> wrote:
This morning I was up early and tinkering on my 3206 while the rest
of the family was still sleeping.  I accidently ran across something
that I thougt is worth mentioning to you all.  Other karts may have
this same issue...

I had the rear of my kart jacked off the ground and I was spinning
the wheels to help distribute the chain lube that I was spraying.
While I was spinning the passenger side wheel, I noticed that it was
rattling around a little.  I checked the driver's side wheel and
found the same.  I then found that both of the big, center axle nuts
that hold the hubs to the axle were loose.  Good thing these nuts
are secured with cotter pins so they can not totally fall off.

The rear hubs are keyed to the rear axle with splines.  With the nut
loose, the rear hubs can rattle around on the splines and eventually
I would expect this movement (even small) could damage the splines
in the cast hub.  Besides, rear wheels that are allowed to rattle
around are not going to do any good!  So, I would recommend that you
check these rear nuts on your kart and make sure they are tight.

The issues with cotter pin secured nuts is that your final torqued
position must end so that the hole through the axle lines up with
one of the slots in the end of the nut; otherwise, you won't be able
to put the cotter pin through it.  In my case, I just decided to add
a couple thin shim washers (5/8" ID) and then I was able to torque
the nuts real tight and still be able to have the cotter pins work.

DON'T OMIT THE COTTER PINS!  They are an important safety feature.
If my kart didn't have the cotter pins, I would have probably lost a
rear wheel at a most inconvenient time!

As an extra measure of safety, I also put loc-tite on the threads.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

found what I believe to be the manufacturer of the engine/cvt in our
carts for future reference www.standardmoto.com/eng it is the GAT
150. GAT lists a 125 and 150cc along with specs, bore and stroke
etc, curiously they list HP as 11 not 9. I will post a pic of the
engine shortly

found what I believe to be the manufacturer of the engine/cvt in our
carts for future reference www.standardmoto.com/eng it is the GAT
150. GAT lists a 125 and 150cc along with specs, bore and stroke
etc, curiously they list HP as 11 not 9. I will post a pic of the
engine shortly

Well got back in town and was able to work on the yerf. Thanks to
this group the engine miss was easy to locate and fix.  Only thing
now is when decelerating form high RPM's I get a back fire. Some are
worse than others but its there. Also while I had it down the
steering rattle bothered me, and came up with a quick fix and prob
not permentent but pulled the lower retaining clip. Pull the steering
shaft up and wrapped the shaft with teflon tape where it goes thru
the bushing and pushed in back down and put the clip back. Like I
said its prob only temp but has been working for three days and realy
quites the yerf down while idleing.
Called Yerf-Dog and got thru for the spindles and they told me a week
and half before shippment. Hope they send the service manual before
then as I am reluctant to go working on the carb with out a manual.
Also had the wire from the starter relay to the starter break off.
Was a quick fix, but the kids look was priceless as they came to me
with the "uhh dad" look. It was to funny and wished I had a Pic of
that moment.

Pat

This morning I was up early and tinkering on my 3206 while the rest
of the family was still sleeping.  I accidently ran across something
that I thougt is worth mentioning to you all.  Other karts may have
this same issue...

I had the rear of my kart jacked off the ground and I was spinning
the wheels to help distribute the chain lube that I was spraying.
While I was spinning the passenger side wheel, I noticed that it was
rattling around a little.  I checked the driver's side wheel and
found the same.  I then found that both of the big, center axle nuts
that hold the hubs to the axle were loose.  Good thing these nuts
are secured with cotter pins so they can not totally fall off.

The rear hubs are keyed to the rear axle with splines.  With the nut
loose, the rear hubs can rattle around on the splines and eventually
I would expect this movement (even small) could damage the splines
in the cast hub.  Besides, rear wheels that are allowed to rattle
around are not going to do any good!  So, I would recommend that you
check these rear nuts on your kart and make sure they are tight.

The issues with cotter pin secured nuts is that your final torqued
position must end so that the hole through the axle lines up with
one of the slots in the end of the nut; otherwise, you won't be able
to put the cotter pin through it.  In my case, I just decided to add
a couple thin shim washers (5/8" ID) and then I was able to torque
the nuts real tight and still be able to have the cotter pins work.

DON'T OMIT THE COTTER PINS!  They are an important safety feature.
If my kart didn't have the cotter pins, I would have probably lost a
rear wheel at a most inconvenient time!

As an extra measure of safety, I also put loc-tite on the threads.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm

Anne,

Sounds frustrating.  Correct me if I am understanding this wrong...

Your starter will engage and the engine cranks over OK, but the
engine is not actually starting.

You wrote that you checked the voltage at the ignition coil primary
wires, and there was none when the engine was cranking.  So the
problem should be upstream of the ignition coil.

Sounds like you have checked the wires back up to the CDI unit from
the igntion coil and the wires/connections are OK.

There is also a pickup (coil) and magnet at the flywheel that
triggers the CDI unit.  If you haven't done this already, you might
want to remove the black plastic fan cover off the passenger side of
the engine and just verify that everything looks OK under there.
The pickup coil is positioned around 10 o'clock or so.  There is a
magnet bonded to the surface of the flywheel that passes by the
pickup.  Make sure the magnet is still there.

These are more far fetched possibilities, but it sounds like you've
already checked a lot of the bigger possibilities, so these less
likely problems are next in line as potential candidates.

You might be right that the CDI unit could be the culprit.  These
sort of electrical issues can be very difficult to troubleshoot (and
very frustrating)!

Keep us posted on what happens,

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm

--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "anne" <headon365@y...> wrote:
> well, guys i must have gotten le grande lemon from the batch!
After
> intial break in , I am now faced with a problem, no fire to spark
> plug , I checked connections, they were good. Then I put a
voltmeter
> to the connections going to the cylenoid, pushed start button , no
> voltage. The starter is engaging and the resistance checks on the
> stator are good. I am beginning to suspect a bad cdi module . Has
> anyone else ran into problem like this? ... oh yeah, connectivity
> between the plug end to cylenoid and plug at the cdi are good on
> both the purple and blk lines, fuse good too, any ideas????
> and does anyone have the service manual downloaded and if so how
can
> i get access to it as well....  arggggh! It seems as if it has
been
> one thing after another with this thing , we should get R&D
> compensation from yerf for all this! ha!
> anne.

Hello Tim,

Great news on the KLF220 shocks you tried.  Keep us posted on how
they work long term.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, timter2000 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
>  Well I installed the e-bay shocks on the front(ATV klf220 Bayou
> Showa shocks) and they seem to work great! 11 inch center eye to
> center eye installed gives it 2 1/4 inches more height in front
plate
> (9 3/4)total and also helped the steering problem some. I will do
> more testing as soon as the weather permits. Im still waiting on
the
> blaster shocks for the back.It appears that the more weight riding
> the better they will perform.It is definitely maximum length (11")
> any longer WILL NOT WORK with the steering assembly.Lowering the
> assembly causes problems with the gas pedal and cant be
geometrically
> altered easily. It seems as if the steering rack is designed to
work
> only one way and thats the way it came from the factory.Keep your
> shocks between 9 3/4 (factory) and 11" and it should work great.I
> will try to get some pics when im finished with the back shocks.

Lance,

Your reinforced spindles look good.  Keep us posted on how they hold
up.

On the nyloc nuts, I've also been using Loc-Tite just to be extra
sure.  With the thread locker, they don't seem to work loose.

Edward
Yerf Dog 3206
http://www.key-ideas.com/Yerf-Dog-3206-3209.htm


--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "checy66l" <checy66l@y...>
wrote:
> i took some flat plat(2" long 3/4" wide 1/8" th.) and bent it
> slightly to form to the bottom plat of the spindle.  welded and
> painted.  fit good did not hit neither way on furthest turn. i
> posted pics of them.  i also have an idea on the floor boards.  im
> gonna get the stuff tommorow and try it out.  if it works ill post
> some pics.  and im gonna try to fit a 2 bolt bearing(as someone
> suggested before) to the steering rod to eliminate that
vibration.
> that would be nice.  tried yerf today but no luck.  maybe
tomorrow.
> about all the bolts on the arms to the spindles were loose.  maybe
> good lock nuts will help.  these seem to turn way to easy for a
lock
> nut.
>
> lance

They were on the front of the Bayou klf220! Does anyone know if
SHOWA shocks are stock on that model?Make sure the length is the
same.
I wouldnt think they would be any longer (11") center to center.Tim


-- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, Darrell Way <tkat13_racing@y...>
wrote:
> Were they the shocks on the rear of the ATV or on the front of the
ATV?
>
> timter2000 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Well I installed the e-
bay shocks on the front(ATV klf220 Bayou
> Showa shocks) and they seem to work great! 11 inch center eye to
> center eye installed gives it 2 1/4 inches more height in front
plate
> (9 3/4)total and also helped the steering problem some. I will do
> more testing as soon as the weather permits. Im still waiting on
the
> blaster shocks for the back.It appears that the more weight riding
> the better they will perform.It is definitely maximum length (11")
> any longer WILL NOT WORK with the steering assembly.Lowering the
> assembly causes problems with the gas pedal and cant be
geometrically
> altered easily. It seems as if the steering rack is designed to
work
> only one way and thats the way it came from the factory.Keep your
> shocks between 9 3/4 (factory) and 11" and it should work great.I
> will try to get some pics when im finished with the back shocks.
>
>
>
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--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, Monte Lang <monte_lang@y...>
wrote:
> New owner fo GX 150, 3206: I have been reading thru the numerous
emails. Great work!Working back from most current. I have not yet run
accross a rattle problem I have been having. Looking to see if
someone has a fix, as of yet....
>
> The rattle is coming from the 3" support bolt above the shielded
area on the muffler. This bolt extends into a hole/cup on the
transmission gear box.  Does anyone have the same problem? Is there a
fix?
>
> I also seem to get some noise from the flooring. I was considering
welding a small angle iron about 1/2 way from the peddles to the seat
on the top side of the floor from left to right. Any other
suggestions?
>
> Read the email on the new gas gap. Boy, am I glad to hear there is
a new device comin'. Its raining fuel !!!       I plan to install the
Carter fuel tank. Thanks for all the hard work and upgrade info. It
may be a month or so before I can get it completed. Is Yerf supplying
new gas caps to those of us who already purchased?
>
> Love the cart and look forward to hours of fun!
>
> Monte
>
> Monte,
    I also have the same muffler rattle.  My muffler actually broke at
the neck of the weld where it is attached to the engine.  When
removing the muffler, I noticed that there is rubber spacer/gromet
between the two washers where it mounts on the side of the engine.
The spacer is already looking worn out, only after two weeks of use.
I'm going to the auto parts store or Home Depot today and try to find
a new one.  I'll let you know if I'm successful.
Regards,
Justin
>
>
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--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Brianstrange"
<brian.strange@n...> wrote:
> swapped out the kart gas cap with the one on my John Deere L120 and
> it worked pretty good(just a couple of drops of fuel showing out of
> the pinhole vent) I bet you could but one at home depot. looks like
a
> standard lawn tractor vented cap so I'm sure they are available at
> sears as well.

Brian,  good call on the John Deere gas cap.  I also used the gas cap
off of my John Deere L100 lawn mower and it worked great.  No more
gas spills on the engine!
Regards,
Justin

Were they the shocks on the rear of the ATV or on the front of the ATV?

timter2000 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Well I installed the e-bay shocks on
the front(ATV klf220 Bayou
Showa shocks) and they seem to work great! 11 inch center eye to
center eye installed gives it 2 1/4 inches more height in front plate
(9 3/4)total and also helped the steering problem some. I will do
more testing as soon as the weather permits. Im still waiting on the
blaster shocks for the back.It appears that the more weight riding
the better they will perform.It is definitely maximum length (11")
any longer WILL NOT WORK with the steering assembly.Lowering the
assembly causes problems with the gas pedal and cant be geometrically
altered easily. It seems as if the steering rack is designed to work
only one way and thats the way it came from the factory.Keep your
shocks between 9 3/4 (factory) and 11" and it should work great.I
will try to get some pics when im finished with the back shocks.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been waiting since Nov 3rd, first order they lost and re-ordered around
Dec 1st and they still have not appeared, thus the reason I had to build my own.
Most people here have been very happy with Yerf's customer response, however, I
can not say I am very happy with their responses. I was even told they would
personally call me back and never heard from them.

Good luck - look under TKat13's photo folder for pics of my spindles.

If you do recieve your new spindles, before you mount them take them to your
local welding shop and have them reinforced. Yerf can not seem to get these
spindles right.

jwnici2000 <jwnici@...> wrote:
how long does it typically take to get spindles from the
manufacturer?  I have ordered them and have been waiting...are they
any better than stock or even thee second design?


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It's a Honda pattern. 4 on 110. I'm using the paddles off my 400EX
for the dunes on my 3206.




--- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Brianstrange"
<brian.strange@n...> wrote:
> does anyone have the factory spec bolt pattern for the rear of the
> 3206 or 3209?
>
> It looks like 4 on 115

the modified spindles look great, the way that everyone is modifing
them, gusseting the sides, which I have also done but now we are
bending them where the tie rod attaches.  I am going to do a little
welding 2morrow, I will post some pics if it works...my son is
getting frustrated every time he rides it that he is bending it and
he isn't being what I would consider rough at all...arrgh are you
listening YERF?????????

-



   I washed my ferf today and it would not fire a lick. I searched
wiring for 2 hrs. I thought water was the culprit.Not the case! I
checked the battery,solenoid,coil, brake saftey switch,ignition
switches(2)and even took the cover off the black box checked all
wires.Nothing! I was starting to get mad and then I remembered.It
turned out to be the connection running down the frame at the back
where the brake saftey connects.When I was washing it I rubbed the
connections and disconnected one a little. I pushed in tighter and it
cranked right up.Boy what an aggravation!Watch This connection.






-- In yerfdoggx150@yahoogroups.com, "Mario" <newastro2@y...> wrote:
> Hi anne,
>
> I am a little confused, you said you have no power to the solenoid
> but the starter engages?
>
> Maybe you are referring to the ignition coil?. At any rate see
> message #293. If you do not get 12 volts at the ignition coil,
check
> the ground for the coil, be sure you can measure battery voltage
from
> any positive terminal to the ground coil terminal.
>
> The coil gets its power directly from the CDI module purple wire.
So
> additionally check the resistant for that wire, with one end
> disconnected from the coil.
>
> Regards
>
> Mario