test

Tevis 2005 – Over half way there


  Coming up into Foresthill (69 miles), on Bath Road, again the
spectators were out cheering riders on. It seems almost everyone
knows Dave, and he would get some extra cheers from the crowd. I
teased him, that it was "all about him" today. But again, the cheers
and often familiar faces are a great mental boost.. The vet was not
thrilled about his CRI, and wanted to see us before we left, just to
make sure it was not a sign of the horse being overly stressed.
Earlier a horse with about the same CRI started to colic. They were
just being cautious, which I appreciated. Again, I knew he was going
to hang a tad  high on his pulse, so I was not concerned. Had I been
on a horse with really fast and low normal recoveries, I would have
been more concerned. But, I knew from previous rides, this was fairly
normal. Hank again ate his big mash, was cheerful, and looking good.
When we went for the recheck, the vet who wanted to see us was not
there. That was not a problem, except he had our rider card, and I
could not continue without it! About a 10 min. delay, we found the
vet, and were given an OK to go. CRI still a little high, but all
other vital signs were great. So, off into the darkness. I was
feeling refreshed from a shower and change of clothes, after eating
more than my share of trail dust during the day.
   As we went through downtown Foresthill, the locals clapped and
cheered, and we waved to the on-lookers. I told Dave after about a
mile that this was officially now the longest I had ever ridden a
horse in one day. Last year had the previous record, when we got
pulled at Foresthill. Hank had been so good on his feet all day, I
had no fears of the CA loop like I had last year. Dave and I rode
alone for 99% of the trail into Franciscos ( 86 miles) . We trotted a
nice easy trot most of the way. The California loop is a  single
track trail, that is often along the edge of the mountain, with BIG
drop offs to the river or canyon below. The footing for the most part
is good, but once and awhile you will have some rocks. Well, we are
about 3 miles on to the CA loop, and Hank trips over one of these
rocks,and starts to fall down, and goes off the trail to our left.
This is a very steep drop off, with some grass, small bushes, and
trees scattered on it.  As he is going over the edge, my mind
says "get off this horse". I bail right, towards the trail. Not much
of a bail, as I swung my leg over, Hank was already off the edge, and
my feet land on the ground / side of the hill right away. I take a
hold of his right rein, and yank on it as hard as I could, and I am
guessing yelled at Hank to "get back up here". I am still not sure
how he managed, but he gave a leap and jumped back on the trail. I
think it was the momentum of him in a forward motion, and that he
never was pointed completly downhill, rather traversing along the
side of the hill that gave him the ability to jump back up before the
side of the hill, and it's fairly soft footing gave way, sending him
further down the mountain. I was standing down over the edge, and the
trail was about chest level with me, and Hank had been below ME. It
was almost straight up and down, and I had a heck of a time climbing
back up on to the trail. I checked Hank, he looked good, I climbed
back on, and told Dave that I was ready. We picked up the trot, and
he never took a lame step. Weird thing is, I was never frightened at
all during this little experience. I had SO much confidence in Hank,
and his trail ability. Dave said he looked back, and our glow stick
attached to the breast collar had disappeared, then reappeared  on
the trail. I have along in my saddle bag, a very special pin, that
was given to my by a friend. Attached to that pin are a few tail
hairs from her horse who finished Tevis 7 times. This horse has gone
on to horse heaven, but he was definitely Hanks guardian angel during
the ride. I still believe that it was a miracle that Hank recovered
from his trip over the edge of the hill. Roxanne says that it is
because my mind was clear enough to do the right things, by bailing,
and then tugging the rein to get him to head back on the trail.
    The moon was no on the rise over the mountains, and starting to
shine on the trail. Shadows of Hank and I were cast sharply on the
edge of the mountain beside us. Looking down at the river below, the
moons reflection shone like a bright light back up at us. The quiet
of the mountains only broken by the rhythmic sound of hoof beats on
the earth, and of the different bugs that were humming in the summer
night air, and an occasional breeze strong enough to make the leaves
on the trees brush against themselves. Moments like this make you
realize WHY you have picked endurance as your sport with your horses.
My horse and I could have been seriously hurt or worst just moments
before, yet that was behind us, and now it was time to appreciate
being out there with the horse who was so strong, and still so brave.
We got to Fransiscos, and found he had some hair loss and scrapes on
one hock from the fall, but was not sore.  Here Hank did "hit the
wall". He was not as hungry, a little sleepy eyed, and the vet did
not like his pulse hanging high. I gave him his background from the
other vet checks, told then this was about what I expected from him,
but indeed, he was tired. They wanted him to eat and rest some, and
we had plenty of time, and spent about an hour there. On the recheck,
he was still up in pulse (but met the criteria) but they saw he had
ate some, and again, his other vitals were good. I told the vets I
could just about walk the whole way in from there. One of the vets
had seen him earlier, and knew me, and that I knew my horse, and
decided he was indeed good to go, and to take it easy. It has to be
tough on these vets who often see a horse only once, and have to make
decision based on what they see at that moment. Unfortunately, some
riders are not honest with the vets on how the horses have been
doing, and try to get a horse past the vet who should call it a day.
Also, I know many "hit the wall" at some point in the ride, and then
perk up again.  We headed out, and Hank did indeed perk up . He had
been over this trail pre-riding. We walked to the river (a couple
miles) and it was what Hank needed. Ears were up, and he would then
trot with just me giving him a cluck or kiss noise, and no need to
nudge my heels into him. When we got to the river, they had a little
tent and Christmas lights set up. We were offered something to drink.
I asked how deep it was, and they told us about ankle deep on the
horses. Uh huh…more like ankle deep on ME while mounted on the horse!
Oh well, wet shoes and socks! Now, on to the last vet check.
   We walked and slow trotted to Lower Quarry vet check. When we got
there, I tried something different. I took him straight to the vet,
before he drank or ate anything. I had heard some horses will have
their pulse rise after they drink, but I had never owned one who did
this myself. Well, lo and behold, his pulse was BETTER than earlier
checks. I had forgot about the rise in pulse on some horses after a
drink. Wish I had remembered earlier in the day!!! So, the vet
checked him, and said all looked great. I also remembered to hook
reins on halter to lead out at the trot. Had a bit of a refusal to
trot earlier, as I had tried to lead from his bit. Duh…. Think I was
tired? Anyway, trotted good, sound, and now he could eat and drink
some. But, still over 6 miles to go, and the final end of the ride
vet check to get through.


   We again did easy trotting, and walking. After having Dave lead the
way most of the day, it was Hanks turn. He actually perked up, being
out front. Ears up, cheerful. He had seen this trail in the dark pre-
riding, and knew the way. When we got to No Hands Bridge, we picked
up the trot. The moon light shining bright on the bridge and
reflecting in the river below. I was  thinking of all the great
horses and riders who had trotted across the bridge over the last 51
years, with their goal of finishing Tevis in sight. And thought about
how often I had imagined doing the same, since my first attempt at
this ride 17 years before. Again, it was just the two of us riding
towards the finish. The horses handled all the rocks and ruts that
could so easily still cause that wrong step to lame a horse. They
stopped and drank from the spring after the one creek crossing. About
a mile from the finish, we heard and saw a string of about 20 horses
rounding the trail back behind us. We picked up the slow trot, and
could see the glow of the finish line up around the corner. My
emotions were high, but until I got across that finish line, and the
final vet check gave us an "all OK", I was trying to keep them in
check. I was not nearly as tired or sore as expected. I was thinking
about the last 24 hours, and how I had pictured crossing the finish
line in my mind so many times during the day. Now it was in sight. I
called out a "whoop" from the darkness, and was answered by some
crews waiting for their riders. I had been in their shoes, waiting,
and worrying, and had congratulated riders as they crossed the line
that I did not know. Now I was the rider…..
   We were met by Roxanne, and Sara, my crew. We walked down to the
fairgrounds, and did one more vet check. I had volunteers ask if I
needed them to trot my horse out for me, but I felt pretty good, and
wanted to be the one to do so. I got that nod from the vet, that we
were done, and could take our victory lap. No one was still in the
big grandstand waiting, but that was OK. Dave got Thunder trotting
and did a flying mount, as we then trotted around the stadium. Hanks
eyes were huge, as he looked at everything he could spook at. As we
crossed the white finish line, I wrapped my arms around Hanks neck
and gave him a huge hug. We came to a stop, and I hopped off and
hugged and kissed him some more. As we walked to the barn, I noticed
the sky was getting bright, and dawn was soon to be replaced by the
sunrise. I could not believe that just 24 hours before, we were
starting this marvelous journey through the Sierra Nevada mountains.
One that I would have never imagined doing on Hank when we were first
breaking and training him to ride. Roxanne was right. He was a nice
strong horse, that could do Tevis.

   I took a born and bred Texas "flatlander" horse, and got him
through one of the toughest rides in the world. There are things I
could have done better, to have made it an easier day on him, and
there are things I did well in his prep for the ride, that did make
it easier on both of us.  Sunday afternoon, I told friends that it
just was not as bad as I expected, and that it would be nice to have
a horse in such awesome condition to be able to ride faster. Roxanne
says I would have been a candidate for having kids (I have never had
any), as I would forget how bad childbirth was, and be ready to have
another the day after giving birth. LOL  I did not have any one area
that was extra sore, and just kind of stiff all over. I had a heck of
a heat rash on both thighs, and small rubs on the inside of my knees.
Hank was bright eyed, and Both he and Thunder looked great. Roxanne
was pleased with how they both looked, and she has seen plenty of
Tevis horses over the years. The hock was swollen some from the fall,
but still never lame.

   I got home to Texas from a long drive from CA, and turned Hank out
in the pasture. He would hardly stand still for me to get his halter
off. He took off at a gallop, and ran around the pasture a couple
laps, with the other 4 geldings tagging behind. He then stopped to
eat some grass, tossed his head, and took off again. Those who have
experienced a horse doing this after a ride know how good it feels to
see them have such energy to do so, and to see them move sound and
strong. I'm sure he is telling them stories, and calling
them "slackers".  I think now, the reason that Gambler did not finish
last year was because Hank was the one to get me that first Tevis
buckle. Hummm, did I say "first"??? Would I do it again???? Who knows…
the ride does get into your blood………


Jonni

Tevis 2005 – The Ride

   I don't need a lot of time to get ready in the morning of a ride.
So, I woke up just before 4AM. I had actually slept pretty well. But,
I woke up with a bit of a sinus headache. I took some medication for
it, and hoped I could get ride of it soon. Ate my banana, drank a
protein drink, and got Hank ready. Thankfully I had an excellent
crew, and Sara was already up and helping me get Hank ready. Because
my knees are not in the best shape, I wear knee supports, and half
chaps over those, which help keep the supports from slipping. It
takes me as long to get dressed, as it does to tack up the horse!
Dave had Thunder ready, and we headed off to the ride start. We
decided to ride in the middle start group. When we arrived, we were
towards the back of that group, with the 3rd group not far behind us.
As we sat there in the morning darkness, it was fairly quiet. I'm
sure the other riders were deep in thought of the day ahead, as I
was. I gazed up at the moon, and thought about how it was setting
now, but would rise again in the early morning hours, and maybe shine
enough to help to guide us over the last part of the trail. As the
sky started to get lighter, and I kept looking at my watch, I saw
that at 5:15, the riders up in front of us started to move off down
the road. I took a deep breath, told Hank he was good, and asked him
to move off into an easy trot. This is one of the most emotional
moments for me, as I know this is THE moment we start to test if all
our work and training is going to have been enough, and if the Tevis
gremlins* are done messing with me, and if we will have a successful
day.

• Tevis Gremlin- a naughty little creature you will never see.
They start to visit those who have sent in a Tevis entry months in
advance, all the way up and through the ride. They amuse themselves
by causing unknown soundness issues with the horses, they get into
your truck and cause mechanical problems, usually when you are
trailering your horse someplace. They cause horse shoes to fall off,
tack that has always fit to suddenly rub, and other nuisances to try
to keep you from starting the ride.

As we trotted down the road, the dust grew thicker. Dave was ahead of
me, and I stayed as close behind him as possible. Hank was being
good, with the exception of diving his nose once and awhile, asking I
not hold him back so much with the bit. But never hung on my hands,
and remained light and not tugging hard. He was all business, and was
not spooking at the logs and rocks that he spooked at the day before
when we rode out a few miles and back after vetting in.  I told
myself to ride the ride one section at a time in my mind. The first
section was 10 miles to the highway 89 crossing.  I was concerned
about the wooden walkway bridges that went over the streams and bogs
that we had to cross, but when we got to them, Hank put his nose
down, snorted, and went right across.  When we got to the highway
crossing, there were spectators watching and cheering the riders on.
It is hard to describe how much spectators can bring up emotions
inside you as they cheer you on. It does not matter if it is just 10
miles into the ride, or 90 miles into the ride, for me, it means so
much that they have taken the time to go out and clap for you, and
tell you to "have a good ride" or "looking good".  For a lot of the
trail before Squaw Valley, we were in a nice pocket with just Dave,
Jim Mitchell and myself. As we started up the long grade to the top
of Squaw, it would be the first real test to see if Hank was ready
for all the climbs. We walked and trotted to the top, watered the
horses, and headed off into the high country. We would now find out
if the bogs were as nasty as we were told they would be, after having
such a wet, and high snow level winter. I found that they were NOT as
bad as expected. We got into some groups of riders, that were going
really slow, and even getting off to go over some of the boulders.
Off is OK, but please, do NOT hold us up as you get back on!  We were
about 8th in a line of horses when we saw a horse loose up on the
hill. Dave jumped off, and ran up the side of the hill and caught the
horse. Again, on our way, and we got around the extra slow riders,
and were again, in a nice pocket of just a few riders. Last year, I
skipped Cougar Rock, as Gambler was tripping too much, and I felt he
would not me safe to take over it. This year, I had been undecided at
the start, but Hank was so sure footed, was not having troubles with
any of the boulders he had to cross and even step on, and was really
listening to what I was asking him to do, and where I wanted him to
go. I decided to go over it. Dave went first, and Thunder was a
champ. Then, Jim headed up, and his horse got half way and spun
around and came back down. Dang it, Hank and I needed a horse to
follow. Well, behind me was Tammy from Cool Tack. Her horse went over
last year, so I had her go ahead of me. Up and over, and Hank and I
followed. There is a spot where you do a slight right turn. At that
point, you are to stay sort of to the left, next to the side of the
rock. Well, Hank did not move over enough, and in front of us was the
straight up and down "wall" that he had to leap up. I kicked, he
leaped, and had no problems getting to the top. What a ride! I was
laughing and telling Hank what a good boy he was. The spectators and
photographers must have thought I was nuts. But I had worried and
thought about Cougar Rock so many times since sending in my entry,
and now it was just a memory!
   On in to Robinson Flat (36 miles). We were a smidge faster than I
was with Gambler last year, arriving at 10:49am. Hank ate like a pig,
looked good, and before we knew it, we were on our way again. The
road out of RF is long and hard packed. We trotted most of it. I
tried to keep Hank to the edge where it was not as hard, and maybe
easier on his legs. At one point, so local land owners have set up a
nice water spot for the horses,  and offered riders drinks. They do
this on their own, at their own expense, and it was such a welcome
stop for both horses and riders. As we turned off on to the trail
again, I was in the back of a string of about 6 horses. Ahhh, Tevis
dust! I had managed to not deal with much of it on my previous
attempts. The trail is often along the edge of the mountain, with
extreme drop offs. Unlike last year, when I was scared with every
step, I was feeling SO good to be on a horse that was so sure of
himself, forward, and moving along with such ease. Hank was handling
the ride like a pro. No spooks or goofy steps. When we got to the
first canyon, the others hopped off to lead down, but before I got
off, I looked and they were jogging down into the canyon. Well, my
knees would never handle a "jog", so I rode half way down, until they
started walking, and then lead the rest of the way to the bottom. I
feared the heat of the canyons, but had built up in my mind that they
would be unbearable, and then found it was not that bad. I had been
drinking my water, and finally shook that darn sinus headache, and
was feeling pretty good. I had a couple extra water bottles on board,
and squirted water on Hank going up out of the canyons. This was the
toughest part of the ride for him. We went slow, but he never asked
to stop and rest. A nice easy, steady walk.  I was spoiled with
Gamblers great recoveries, and knew Hank would be tougher to get down
to criteria. It took us some time at each check, but it was what I
expected, due to his over-all minimal mountain conditioning. All
other vitals were fine, just slow to drop in heart rate. He ate and
drank well, and was moving very sound. At Deadwood and Michigan Bluff
(63 miles), I gave him extra time to eat more. We were still slightly
ahead of my last years arrival times, and knew I had time to spare.
What I did NOT want to do, was get into the position to having to
chase the clock and cut off times. If one is that slow, often they
will not be able to catch up late in the ride, when the horse gets
more tired.

(click next for part 3 of 3)

Tevis 2005 – The preparation


   In 1988, I attempted my first Tevis. I look back at how much more I
have learned about the sport, and the Tevis trail since then. I had a
heck of a horse, but made  some mistakes  during that attempt such as
doing a huge, very fast trot down a long hard packed road, causing a
slight lameness at Michigan Bluff (56 miles that year), and a pull.
Due to different circumstances, I would not return to the trail for
many years.  In 1998, I started working for Roxanne Greene, helping
her with her endurance horses. I went up with her to pre-ride the
last part of the Tevis trail, and helped her get ready for the ride
for the next few years. In 2001, she received her 20th Tevis buckle.
The ride was back in my system, and finally in 2004, I had a horse I
thought had what it took to get me that buckle. So, last year I made
another attempt on my gelding Rushcreek Gambler. He had done 100's
previous to my owning him, and I knew his condition base was very
strong. His recoveries were awesome at all the vet checks, with me
being able to come into a stop, and so straight to the vet, without
needing to wait for his pulse to come down. But, at Foresthill (69
miles), he was lame at the end of the 1 hour hold, and again, that
Tevis buckle would not be mine. He had also had some tripping issues
all day, and I was really scared about riding him into the darkness
along the CA loop. Last thing I wanted was to have a horse trip in
the darkness, along the edge of the mountain that drops off sometimes
to the river below. (this will become pretty ironic to have this fear)
   After the ride, Roxanne suggested I get Hank ready, as she felt he
was the right size, build, and was strong enough to complete the
ride. His problem was, he was still fairly new to the sport, and had
some "issues" with spooking etc. I had a year to get him ready. He
was often frightened by a small stick across the trail, and would do
an explosive leap to get over it. He spooked some, and if he got a
vine or brush in his tail, would freak. But, he proved to handle any
trail situations such as rocks, banks to go up and down, water
crossing as smart and safe as horses with miles of trail experience.
But I just did not trust him 100% to not mentally explode over weird
things. Thankfully, when he did, he never put himself into worst
situations. Just had me grabbing to hang on, and hope he did not
unseat me.
    The summer of 2004, he was along with us on the cross country XP
ride, and had done 3, slow 50 mile rides in a 3 week time frame, with
friend Dave Rabe on him. They went slow, and after each days ride, he
always looked strong and cheerful. XP rides will teach a horse to
care for himself well on the trail, as water is often not plentiful,
and eating what grass is found along the way may be the only other
munchies besides that at the vet check. They learn to care for
themselves, and learn they might be out there for a long day.  I did
some NATRC rides with him in the Fall, which I feel helps the mind to
not get race brain at the mass starts of endurance rides. Then, I had
planned out to do a ride per month the beginning of 2005, and ask a
little more of him each ride, building up to Tevis. The first ride
was Frigid Digit, local to me here in North Texas. We started about
10 min. after the last horse, and worked on him keeping a nice steady
pace. The ride is very flat (on Tevis standards), but we were working
on the mental aspect along with some conditioning. He drank well,
learned about relaxing at busy vet checks, and being passed, and
passing other horses. The next ride was down in the Hill Country of
Texas, at Heart of the Hills. More rocks and hills than our local
trails. It was a small group of about 11 riders starting. We kept the
same pace as the last ride, but added in the slightly more technical
trail. Then, about a month after that, we went to Oklahoma, to
Winding Stair. A 55 mile ride, in the Ouachita Nat'l Forest. We had
mountains, more rock, and more technical trail. A wonderful ride,
which was awesome for Tevis prep. Again, we kept the same pace as the
previous rides (just under 6 mph over all pace) with the added
difficulty.  Here, Hank was showing me the climbs were tough on him,
and I knew he needed much more work on hills to be ready for Tevis.
And that was just not going to happen here in No. Texas.
   I decided that I would take he and Gambler out to Los Angeles the
beginning of June, to finish our training in the mountains that
Roxanne had prepped so many Tevis horses over the years.Between she
and her family, they have over 40 Tevis completions.  My husband was
going to be home for much of that time, with the exception of going
on the road the week before Tevis. The neighbors then took care of
the animals for us. I arrived on a Tuesday afternoon, and on Friday I
headed to a NATRC ride that was held in the mountains above Santa
Barbara. I figured it would be a good training ride, and a test to
see how his conditioning was. It was also a ride I had done many
years ago, when I lived in California, and was looking forward to
seeing the trails again. I was blown away when he placed 2nd in a
very tough class of seasoned "West Coast" horses.
   Over the next 5-6 weeks, we started riding in the mountains,
building up Hanks hind end muscles, and his heart rate. We were
careful to not over do it, as many riders do getting ready for Tevis.
Too much hard work, and you arrive at the start of the ride with a
horse that is either exhausted, or having potential soundness issues
for doing too much, too close to the ride.  Ideally you will have a
horse that is at it's peak both condition and soundness, but if you
have to start a horse that is slightly weak in one area, you can
usually work with one that might not be in as peak condition, but
lame is lame, and your day WILL be done.  A couple weeks before the
ride, we drove up from L.A. to pre-ride the last 30 miles of trail
that we would cover in the dark. We split it in to two days. One of
those days, we rode out from the finish, to the river crossing, then
turned around and rode back. We started in late afternoon, and ended
up actually riding in the complete darkness, without a moon. The
horses all did very well, and had no problems seeing the trail and
all of its rocks, ruts and switchback turns. I just hoped he would
remember all of the trail conditions when we got there during the
ride, and we were both tired.
   As I was getting Hank in shape, I was trying to get myself in
better shape too. Roxanne's property is on a hill, so I spent my days
walking up and down it, working and caring for her horses. When we
rode in the hills, I got off, and walked down the hills to work those
muscles that would be used when I walked down into the canyons. I
knew my legs would really hurt if I did not do so. I learned that
downhill walking only sounds easy on the legs, but if not
conditioned, you WILL hurt! I also knew that there was no way I would
be able to get in condition to tail UP the canyons, and that Hank
would have to carry me.
   A few weeks before the ride, Roxanne and her office chair had a
disagreement, and she ended up with a bruised tail bone. So, she was
not going to be able to ride. We had heard that Dave Rabe was in need
of a Tevis horse, so she offered him Thunder, a nice big gelding. We
took Thunder up on the pre-riding, and he had been born and raised at
Roxanne's, and had been brought up in the mountains. He had also done
some XP rides. He was as ready for Tevis as he could be.  Dave has
over 35,000 endurance miles, and his very first ride, and finish, was
Tevis in 1985. He already had 7 Tevis buckles, and we knew he would
take excellent care of Thunder.( you might have seen Dave at a ride,
he always wears cut off jeans, and usually a white T-Shirt!)  I knew
he would know the pace to keep, for those of us who were riding just
to finish. Dave was unable to get up to meet Thunder until Friday at
ride camp, and the first time he got on him, was at the ride start. I
was just glad to have him along with me at the start, as I had NO
idea what Hanks reaction would be to starting off at a trot with 200
other horses. I had done my homework, we had tried to work at group
starts, and at keeping his mind on what I asked him to do, and not
getting naughty and fighting me. I had made him walk out of camp with
others trotting past us, but would all of this come together in the
darkness the morning of the ride? I'd find out…………..

(click next for part 2)

I'll be attempting Tevis (the 100 mile endurance ride) again
  this weekend. I will be riding my Arab gelding "Hank". This
  will be my third attempt, so hopefully I'll finish, and get
  that darn belt buckle. For those who are curious, you can
  track the ride on line live, or just check Sunday to see if
  I finished. Here are the links:

  http://www.foothill.net/tevis/

  general website, with info on ride

  http://www.foothill.net/tevis/webcast/index.html

  webcast site, tracking all riders

  http://www.foothill.net/tevis/webcast/riderquery.html


  here you can punch in MY rider number (Jonni Jewell, #117)
  and it will give you the last known report from the trail,
  of my location. You want to see McCann Stadium, 100 miles
  when you do this Sunday! LOL

To read the XP adventure, go to post number one, and read forward

16 years ago, I made my one and only previous attempt at completing Tevis.
It was on my horse Drut, who was a seasoned NATRC and endurance horse. One
that I could  trust whole-heartedly with my life in any trail situation. We
made it as far as Michigan Bluff that year. He was a little off, and we
called it a day, with us both feeling great otherwise. My only other Tevis
connection since then was helping a friend pre-ride the last 40 miles of the
trail with her horses in 1999 and 2000.  I had drifted away from distance
riding not long after that attempt so many years ago, and it has taken me
this long to finally have another horse, and get it "all together" to give
it another try.  Spending the 5 weeks leading to Tevis on the XP2004 helped
to get myself, and my horse , Rushcreek Gambler in shape. I had a very
different conditioning and training plan than many riders, as I had not done
a lot of rides leading up to the start of the XP in June, and planned to
choose my days to ride him on the XP trail carefully, thinking of the final
goal of doing Tevis. I think many horses are over worked leading to rides
like Tevis, and by the time the ride arrives, they are all used up. We did
one slow 50 mile ride each of the first 4 weeks of the XP, then the final
week, we only did 25's. I looked for days that had some hill work, and just
rode slow, using up most of the day to complete the ride.(lots of hours,
even though slow, helped condition both of us to the potential long day at
Tevis)  This horse has been doing endurance for about the last 5 years, and
has a good base of conditioning, including finishing 3 100 mile rides with
the previous owner. But he also has some issues with some of his joints
(mostly hocks) and does not do well with a lot of pounding and extra
conditioning. I had meant to start him on a program of Legend or Adaquan,
but forgot to do so, and ended up heading into Tevis concerned he might be
sore on the hocks from all the hills.

We arrived in Auburn Monday before the ride, coming straight from the end of
the XP. I let the horses mostly rest, and did a couple easy rides out to No
Hands bridge and back.(the other two horses along were Rockhe, and Hank, who
had done days on the XP also)  I spent my time also resting, and putting
together my crew bags, and making sure I had everything I needed. One thing
I had to do, was order a few things for my saddle, as I had changed from the
English saddle, to a Bighorn, about week 3 of the XP. I spent all that time
and money before the XP, looking for a saddle to fit the horses and I, and
then found that it placed my legs in a position my hips were unhappy with,
and I was having trouble riding the saddle. Kind of ironic I ended up
changing to a borrowed Bighorn, after all that saddle search. But it was
fitting both myself, and the horses. I needed saddle pads from home, and a
friend was flying from Texas to Reno, so I had my hubby put the pads in a
bag, and Terry brought them to Reno, where I met him in front of the airport
the night I was passing through from the XP to Auburn.(I bet it was not the
first horse trailer to pull through the airport!)  I found a local farrier,
and Gambler got his new shoes Wed. afternoon. I rode Thursday, and he seemed
to go well in them, with minimal tripping. This horse does trip a lot, and
we have got most of it fixed, but I feel that the big problem is when his
hocks start to cause him some discomfort, the shifts his weight heavy on to
the forehand, and then has a tendency to trip more. I had been using
Easyboots over his shoes on the XP, and had still not decided what I wanted
to do for Tevis. I finally decided to go without Easyboots (or pads) for
Tevis, and his feet did well.

I got to Robie Park early Friday, settled in, and then got the horse and
myself checked in. I did a ride out the first couple of miles of the trail
that afternoon, to look at the start.. I was not thrilled to see the early
downhills, as this horse is not one that can go quick downhill with the way
he travels. I had no idea how chaotic the start would be, and if we would be
"pushed" to go faster down hill than I was comfortable with.  I was planning
to ride  the first part of the ride with Sands Dickson of Colorado, and we
decided to start in the "middle group". Tevis has the riders line up along
the road in groups, as to where they want to start. The road is a wide dirt
/ gravel road, with plenty of room. The front runners were up ahead of us
gathered, and the riders who wanted to go slower than us, grouped themselves
behind us on the road. We all waited for about ½ and hour in these groups,
until the 5:15 ride start. It was interesting how very calm over all the
horses were in our group. Some fussed, but most just stood there quiet, as
we waited in the darkness. I was not having butterflies or tension, and had
just been feeling sort of dull, like it was the start of another day of the
XP, only this one longer. In fact, that was the feeling I had been having
all week. Kind of like I was prepping for "just a days ride", instead of the
most well known endurance ride that exists today.  I almost felt guilty not
being nervous, with all the other riders around me being fairly tense. Then
we were told the trail was open, and we started trotting out on down the
road. Sands asked me to lead, as her mare likes to be silly early on, and
spook, unless she is following. She had bonded with Gambler at the
fairgrounds, so was more than happy to follow him. We were in the middle of
the pack, but I quickly saw that we better get around a few of these horses
that were being very naughty, and might cause us problems of delays when we
got up to the single track trail up ahead. Gambler was trotting very nice,
and being  good boy. (he rarely gets real excited at a ride start anyway) On
the downhills on the road, we slowed to an easy trot, and after we got to
the single track, and the downhills had rocks and poor footing, he would go
into a VERY fast walk, while the others had to jog trot.  We found ourselves
in a good position, and had already passed a lot of horses, without having
to push much faster than the over all speed of our group. If you get behind
riders that are having troubles, or slow WAY down, and can't get around, you
can be set way back in your timing. And if you get way behind early on, you
can not gain that time back very easily for the rest of the day. You really,
really have to push quicker at the beginning, to allow for the slow going
you will encounter up in Granite Chief over the boulders and bogs.  ( but
not go so fast to use up your horse early on) When we got to the narrow
trail after crossing highway 89, I found by then that Gambler was a horse I
had to steer every step to avoid rocks and such, and that he was already
starting to trip some. Not a horse you could just give him his head, and he
would safely follow the trail without incident. Finally, we hit the road up
out of Squaw, and a break from the single track. We again were able to pass
more horses as we kept an easy trot up most of the road to the top. We were
doing about a 6.8 mph overall pace for the morning as we headed up out of
Squaw Valley (per my GPS). He was feeling very strong and forward. I let him
tell me when he needed to walk some, which he did. After a water stop, it
was up over the top, and the view of the mountains ahead. I have to say, it
was breathtaking. I had a camera along, but too hard to shoot on a trotting
horse. But it is embedded in my memory.  We worked our way into the Granite
Chief wilderness, and found ourselves fairly alone, with just another few
horses. Glad to not be in a pack of riders in this stuff. It is very
technical in places, and I can not imagine riding a horse that is in a
hurry, and fighting its rider. They really need to listen, and be sensible.
We saw no accidents, and did not even hear of any until we got to Robinson,
so maybe most were behind us. The boulders and slabs of rocks one must
occasionally go up or down were not for a timid rider, or inexperienced
horse. I had a horse with experience, but he was one who was not being real
good on his feet. Occasional trips or a stumble would put my heart in my
throat. I started thinking ahead to Cougar Rock, and just not sure I trusted
this horse to not fall on it. By the time we cleared the wilderness stuff,
and got to better trail again, our over-all pace was down to about 5.6 mph.
(you lose a lot of time dealing with those rocks and boulders!) Finally,
when we got to Cougar Rock, and the horse in front of me went ½ way up, then
stopped, tap danced, turned around, started backing, and finally came back
down, I took that as a sign to go around. I would have taken my other horse
over in a heartbeat, but not this horse, on this day. Now I was starting to
dread riding him in the dark even more.  We got into the pulse check at Red
Star, and I went straight to the vet, and he was down to the required 60
heart rate. Grabbed him a handful of hay, and headed out again.  Before
Robinson, Sands went on ahead, and I slowed down along the hard pack road. I
arrived at exactly 11AM, which was the goal. No problem pulsing down and
vetting through. One must do much of the horse care in the vet lines. I
walked along feeding him, and offered water, while in line. This is true
multi tasking!  I was feeling pretty good, and the hour went quickly, and
before I knew it, we were heading out again.  I had never seen the pucker
point trail going towards Last Chance. Let's just say, you are not puckering
up your lips to kiss anyone. It goes along the edge of a mountain, with a
sheer drop off with what looks like  thousands of feet down. Great..and I am
riding "Sir-trips-a lot".  But we need to trot, to keep our pace. I have
never had a fear of heights, but I was not about to look over the edge in a
couple of spots that were sheer straight walls down to the bottom. MUCH
further looking down that the trails along the river on the Calif. Loop.
(but not real sure, as I said, I did not look down!) Finally, that is over
with, and we are back on to some dusty jeep trails. Next pulse check we
cruise in, straight to the vet, pulsed down, trot out, sound, grab a half a
flake of hay, and I start leading him down the trail, feeding him as we
walk. You can get stuck in these vet checks in a line or behind those who
are not savvy as to how to get through them quickly if you are not paying
attention, and that can cost you some time.

In the first canyon, I get off to lead him, as it is very rocky, and steep,
and slow going. We are in a line of about 20 riders, all leading down into
the canyon. I had concerns my knees would not let me walk / jog down the
hill, but I never did have any knee problems all day. Somewhere heading down
this canyon, someone had the nerve to ask to pass us. Not sure where they
thought they were going to go in such a long line of horses on a narrow
trail, but they were told "no" by about 8-10 riders and were just stuck
with the rest of us. At the swinging bridge, I did not go down below to the
river, as there is water just past the bridge, and going down below is time
consuming. I would have ridden over it, but there is a sign to tell you to
lead the horse.  I rode up out of the canyon, as I was just not in shape to
lead or tail him.  Thankfully, the weather was forgiving that day, and not
near as hot as some years have been. These canyons can take their toll on a
horse, and the Deadwood check is after one tough pull up out of a canyon.
Gambler had not been sweating much all day. I think the fact he lives in
Texas, with humidity, he was not as hot  as many of the horses were.  At
Devils Thumb, we have volunteers with food, water, and such, to revive us,
before going the short distance on into the Deadwood check. I watered,
grabbed some hay, sponged him off some and did not stick around there very
long. I did not want to get stuck behind all those riders who would soon be
heading towards the Deadwood check. (again, we passed a bunch of riders who
seemed to be dilly-dallying at Devils Thumb) Walked and trotted a little
into Deadwood, and went again straight to the vet, and he was pulsed down,
and ready to go. I am lucky to have a horse that is usually pulsed down when
I arrive at the check points.

It is true, they say to ride this ride as a section at a time, not the over
all trail. I was now looking towards Michigan Bluff. I was still not
thrilled about the thought of riding this horse in the dark, on narrow
trails, as he was still scaring me with his trips, and the need to be
directed over every rock. But, he was performing beyond what I expected,
with the exception of the tripping issues. I was amazed that this
"flatlander" horse could trot up some of the hills like he did. Coming up
the canyon towards MB, I found I was at the lead of a string of about 20
riders (probably those who I passed at Devils Thumb). Again, I went straight
to the vet, as I knew that if I waited, I'd for sure get stuck in line, and
have the clock click on as I waited to get the vetting done. After I vetted,
I give Gambler some extra time to eat and rest, before heading into the next
canyon, and then our next 1 hour hold at Foresthill. He ate about a flake of
hay, drank, and was alert, and looking ready to chug on to the next stop.
This canyon seemed to go fairly quick, and one hour later, we were heading
up Bath road, and into the Foresthill vet check. On Bath road, there is a
house that has a couple hoses out in the road, for us to cool the horses off
with. He was damp, but not really sweaty, but I still hosed down everything
except his haunches, and continued up into the vet check. I stripped the
saddle, and went straight to the vet, and was lucky we did not have a line.
The vet asked if he had given me any trouble with his left front, as she saw
a little something. I explained he had not been sore, but he likes to have
me post on the left diagonal, and had been doing this most of the summer.
Never off, just seems happier with me on the left diagonal. She made a note
to watch the left front on vet card, and we took him to the trailer to eat
and such, while I took a quick shower in my camper. Wow, the dirt that came
off of me!!! But after the shower, and clean clothes, I felt much better. I
ate, while my crew tended to Gambler. We checked his legs, and he had very
few scrapes, no sores, and his back was looking good.(the Bighorn was
working fine!) Got him tacked back up, and our hour was heading to an end. I
got the glow bars on his breast collar. As much as I was NOT wanting to ride
off into the darkness on this horse, I figured if he got really bad with
tripping, and I was feeling he was as dangerous as my mind had already made
him, I'd just walk, and get there when I got there. I could not quit just
because I was not thrilled with the horse I was on for the day. We had come
too far, and he was looking really good, and handling the trail physically
and metabolically better than I had expected.  He had not been pre-ridden on
this upcoming section of trail, which we had wanted to do before the XP, but
could not swing it. So, I would just have to try to access my memory of the
trail from seeing it in 1999 and 2000, and figure things out as we went.

So, over towards the out timer and "out check"vet, and I hop on him, he
takes a few steps and he feels REALLY lame. Like a rock in the foot. I ask
someone to check his left front for a rock, but it is clean. I then get off,
check his other feet, and find a rock in the right front. OK, maybe I was
confused. Lead him on over to the vet who is doing "out checks" as we leave.
I trot him out, and they tell me he is lame. I told them of the rock, trot
again, still lame, and they say "sorry, we can't let you go, he is lame on
the left front". (well, the rock was in right front, so much for that
theory) They take my vet card, and we head towards where my crew was, to try
to catch them before they leave. Oh well, I miss them, and have to bum a
ride for us back to the fairgrounds. I am not disappointed, as this horse
really gave me his all during the day, but his way of going was darn
frightening at times. I am relieved to not have to deal with him in the
dark, and am glad that metabolically, he did SO well.  He let me know that
as far as condition, I seemed to do it right, and did not over work him
conditioning before the ride. His lameness is something that maybe has been
working on showing up, by the way he prefers me to be on the left diagonal.
The following day, he was already less sore on the leg.( it seemed to maybe
be in the tendon sheath)  And I plan to have it looked at this week, and
maybe an ultrasound done on it. (although he is sound trotting around in the
pasture..happy to be home again!)  I also found that I was in better shape
than I thought I was going to be. I was not sore, over-tired, or feeling bad
at all when we stopped at 70 miles. I am already thinking about next years
Tevis, but probably not on this horse. One really needs a horse they can
trust their life to in the trail situations that are out there. Everyone
says what a tough trail this is, but until you see it, you really have no
idea how it will challenge YOU during the ride. You must be a brave rider,
on a brave, bold horse. And you and the horse must trust each other during
the ride, to deal with the situations that arise. And you can not doddle.
You must push, push, push, to make sure you make it to the check points in
time. I personally feel that being over time is not an option for me. If my
horse can not keep the pace required to finish in time (and make the cut off
's.allowing extra from problems that might arise), then maybe we are not
ready. I would hate to be chasing cut off times all day. You can rarely
catch those up if you get behind. Over all, for the full 100 miles, you must
keep a minimum 5+ MPH average pace to finish in 24 hours. This pace INCLUDES
the non hold pulse checks, water stops, delays from large groups, up hills,
bogs, pee breaks, hazards etc. etc. So when the going is good you MUST move
out. I found out that I was physically and mentally ready to push myself as
much as this ride requires.( which I had doubts before the ride)   I could
not remember any of the first 40 miles of trail from riding it so many years
ago. Some had changed, some was the same. We were lucky, to not get stuck in
any large groups, as having 250 horses sharing the already very difficult
trail just adds to the challenge of getting through it in one piece. You
will have riders out there with ALL levels of experience. I saw a few who
were definitely over challenged and had bit off more than they could chew.
Some are accidents waiting to happen, and others are over working their
guardian angels that day.  But then you see faces of riders you recognize
from magazines and such,  that have been in this sport for years, and seem
to make it look so easy on their well seasoned horse. You meet riders
briefly, and maybe ride a short section of trail with them, and then might
not see them the rest of the day. You hear their stories of their horse, or
what it took to get to the ride, and you wonder the next day if they made it
or not. You root for everyone to meet the goal they set out to accomplish
that morning. Some might not have even had the goal to finish. Sitting in
the dark, along a gravel / dirt road in the middle of the Sierras, waiting
to hear "the trail is open", you make short term friends with voices and
silhouettes of horses and riders you can not make out the details of, even
with the full moon shining bright as the dawn approaches. Exchanging names,
or "where are you from", connects you briefly with someone you may have
e-mailed, or read about on line, as they told of their preparations to get
to the ride.  Then as the signal is given, you are brought into the reality
and dust of the trail ahead, and you don't have much time to think of the
others sharing the trail with you for the next 24 hours. Those silhouettes
and voices are no longer on your mind as all the work and preparation you
have done is now being put to the test. For some, the test is short, and
they end their day early. Others are tested well into the night, but still
might not accomplish their goal. While others get to see the pay off of all
the hard work, and get to take that lap around the stadium in Auburn. For
many who don't, we look forward to trying again "next year". Some realize
this is NOT something they want to try again. But it seems for most, it is a
ride that gets into your system that you just can not get out. It calls you
back, to try again. It has been calling me back for 16 years. I've waited
this long for that darn buckle..what's another year......I'll be back.....

Jonni

P.S. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and good wishes as we shared our
adventures this summer. I hope that everyone gets to try what ever goal they
might have with their horse. These adventures make lasting memories. I was
blessed to be able to do both the XP, and attempt Tevis in the same year. I
hope y'all did not get to bored with my "reports from the road".

July 19- Register Cliff

As I start to write about week 5, I realize I did not take any notes
during the week, so this will all be from memory. (and almost 10 days
after the beginning of the week)

I chose not to ride out of Esterbrook, as I need to concentrate on
the upcoming Tevis (July 31st) and taking it easy with Gambler, and
choosing my rides very carefully. The ride out of Esterbrook is a lot
of downhill, which I need to watch with him. Rockhe still has the
saddle sore, and Hank has a slightly tender spot on a front leg that
I am watching.

Now that the camps are back into civilization, we get to eat out
some, and use services in town. Our cooks, Jeff and Alex did great,
but sitting down at a restaurant is a treat. We ate out Monday night,
then prepped for riding a half day out of Register Cliffs.

July 20th – Torrington

Vickie and I rode the first 20 miles, then dropped the horses at
camp, and went back to play tourist at Fort Laramie. It was
interesting to see the ruins that still exist, and the restoration of
some of the buildings and artifacts. Vickie of course spent a lot of
time in the store, buying some wonderful books. We did a little more
shopping, then headed to camp, which was behind a grocery store,
right in town. Ahhh, all the services one would need. Fast food, feed
store, gas stations, and a fairgrounds with showers! We took
advantage of a few of these services, including the showers. Nice to
use a shower where you can let it run on you for a little while,
without worrying about the tank running empty. When we returned to
the camp, Vickies horse Wind Warrior was having a bout of colic. We
think he got a bad bite f hay, from some we just purchased. He was
not looking real good, so Vickie and I loaded him up, and hauled him
a couple hours down to Ft. Collins CO, and the Colorado University
vet hosp. They decided the best thing to do was to just observe him
for the night, and give him some IV fluids. We were lucky, that by
morning he was good to go, and no further treatment was needed. For
being such tough animals, they can be so fragile.

While in Ft. Collins, we found a kitty in front of the hotel, that
was lost and / or dumped. Very sweet, and wanted a home. So, we took
her in, bought all the stuff a kitty needs, and added to our
traveling family. We named her Gypsy.

July 21st – Melbetta

We arrived as the sun set, to the next camp, from the trip to the
vet. That night, we had some rain, which was welcome, after some very
hot days. They only had about 8 riders head out to ride the trail
that AM. The thunder and lightning was still in the area, but not as
strong as it was during the night. We are in Nebraska now. More
farms, less sage brush. On the way to the next camp, we stopped in a
town to do laundry, and grab some breakfast. Nice little café. Our
wait help was a young man who was about 17. All the locals of course
knew him by name. He was very friendly, and exceptional at his job.
We had to chuckle though, as Vickie asked if they had Egg Beaters
(egg substitute) and he said "No, but we have forks". We were not
sure at fist if he was very quick with wit, or unsure what we wanted.
But when he realized what we were requesting, he too, found the humor
in it.  I am sure a few of the locals will tease him for awhile about
this.

July 22 – Mud Springs

We camped at the Mud Springs XP station. The owner of it was so kind
to have mowed the field, and even sprayed for mosquitoes. As we said
before, the folks in Nebraska are SO friendly and kind. They really
enjoy having us come through. They go out of their way to make us
feel welcome.

Vickie and I went for a short ride out of camp, and I checked the fit
of the Big Horn saddle on Gambler. Looks like I will have to change
to it, since the other saddle really hurts my hips. Ironic all my
saddle search, and spending money on a good saddle, and I end up
changing to a $300 Bighorn that seems to fit the horse and I.

We decided to ride the second half of tomorrows ride. Might have more
rain…..

July 23rd-

We woke up to rain. 5 weeks on the ride, with hardly any rain, and we
get it on the last day. Oh well, a welcome change. We trailer out to
the ½ way point, to just ride in to the finish from there. Vickie is
riding Thunder, I am on Gambler, and we are riding with Sue Dyke and
her mare "Grape". This half of the ride is all on Rushcreek ranch
trails. I wonder if Gambler was ever ridden on this part of the
ranch. It is a lovely day, even though we are dealing with a steady
rain. We walked most of the way, and just enjoyed the surroundings.
This was a lovely day to finish off our XP experience. Cool weather,
rolling hills, and three willing horses to enjoy the trails on.

We arrived to camp, which was in a field filled with nice green
grass. The horses were so happy to have something to graze on, other
than sage brush. Some of the folks from Rushcreek came by to see
Gambler, as he was the only RC horse on the ride.

That evening was our farewell gathering, and steak dinner. Even the
rain did not dampen the spirits too much, as we all gathered together
for one last "ride meeting", and awards. Because the crews and riders
were from all parts of the nation (and Canada), we all wonder who we
will cross paths with again at another ride. Kind of like a
graduation, and everyone going to different places with it is all
over. Dave did awards, and Anne Sands read one more poem. We joked,
and said our good-byes, as the darkness started to fall on camp, and
yet a little more rain. Many are leaving very early in the AM, to
head home, or like us, off to California for Tevis. For the most
part, after Dave announced the "best performance" was Dave Rabe (who
rode all 1250 miles), it got quiet fairly quickly as we headed to
tend to out horses, and get out of the rain gear.

The next AM, we left just before 6AM. A few had already left, but
some were still not stirring. As we pulled out, the camp seemed very
quiet, with a few more slipping out of their trailers and RV's to
feed, or get ready to head out.

This was a wonderful experience, and we are never sure if it will be
the last of a ride of this kind. The Nicholson's put SO much of
themselves into this, and it is not an easy task to pull off, nor is
it easy on ones own life to have it consumed by such an event. Dave
has such a passion for the Pony Express trail, and of rides like this
to show what horses (and riders) ARE capable of doing. Annie keeps
the business end of it all together, doing mountains of paperwork,
ordering shirts and jackets, some meals, and just keeping
Dave "together". I know each and every rider on this ride thank them
with all their heart to put on such an event, so we can go "have
fun". As we were ending the meeting Friday night, someone asked about
a "North – South " ride. Dave did not say yes or no, but he did say
he would look in to it.

If you are a rider, and have thought about doing a multi-day ride,
really consider doing one of these 5 day rides that are offered. You
might be surprised by what you and your horse can accomplish.

Check out the results etc. on the Xprides web page. You can find
mileage info etc.

I hope that I kept this journal somewhat interesting. I had better
plans for it, including typing out each night about the day, instead
of going on memory, but even the best plans fall apart some. I am now
in "Tevis" mode, and will try to add a couple posts, and some photos
of the Tevis experience, then it will be back home to Texas, which I
am missing. While I was gone, we had to put our little dog Soozee to
sleep (she was very old) and our Cockatiel bird died. The month of
June saw much rain, and now the grass is growing. I have missed much
of the Texas heat, and it seems like forever when I left the
beginning of June, to head out. I thank my hubby, Bill, for letting
me take off like this, to do something that might be a once in a life
time experience. Thank goodness for cell phones…..

Now, off to find internet, and get this sent.

Jonni, from her camper at the Auburn Fairgrounds.

Monday, July 12-

Arrived at camp, to strong winds, and another garden spot of sage
brush and sand. The camp was up from the highway, above the
Sweetwater River. Views of the surrounding mountains were nice, but
did not ease our frustration with the wind. Storms were brewing all
around, and we were not sure if we would get any rain at camp or not.
Finally, as the day closed, we started with some light sprinkles,
then finally a steady rain for awhile. The wind also died down, but
with that, came something much, much worst than blowing
sand….mosquitoes!!!!  They were VERY fierce, and going after the
horses. We all sprayed the horses, and most had on blankets, but all
night we had horses stomping, rolling, rubbing on the sides of our
trailers. I can't remember dealing with so many of the
little "buggers" at once like this in a LONG time. The wind would be
a welcome relief to keep the bugs away.

Tuesday, July 13th-

We had to trailer riders from camp, about an hour, to the ride start
at Independence Rock. This was an important spot for settlers to stop
over on their trek west. Many signed their names on the side of the
rock, to let family members who were coming later on, that they had
gotten there. Also, it is said they needed to be there by July 4th,
to be able to get over the rest of the passes before winter set in up
in the high country.

Sara rode Wizard on the 50 mile ride today, and Dave Rabe rode my
horse Hank again. Dave has been down one horse with one of his own
injured, so he only has two of his to ride each week. Hank gives Dave
another to ride, and for me, it gets Hank out on the trail, learning
the ropes of being an endurance horse, while carrying less weight
than when I ride him, and also having someone who can get off and run
along with him if Hank were to need a break.

We met the riders at lunch, and then saw them a couple more times
along the trail. It was a blazing hot day to be out. Dave came in
with two other riders in the front, and the rest of the riders on the
trail trickled in slowly. The last ones got in after being out there
about 2 hours, and were pretty whooped from the heat. A good group of
tough horses and riders.

Our camp was at Stinking Creek, where we camped in 2001 also. It had
not changed much. Funny how driving into the camp, brought back the
memories of the weekend we stayed there before. Cell phone service
had only worked in one spot in the road, and I found myself there
again. The creek was just a shallow stream, but we remembered digging
a hole in '01 to make a deep spot to sit and cool off. No need to dig
another hole to soak in, for just one days stay. Not many bugs as the
previous night, and the horses rested better.

Stinking creek to Robbins-
We trailered up to the lunch spot, and rode from there. Only 2 riders
were doing the full 50 mile AERC ride today. I rode Hank, and Vickie
rode Thunder. I wanted to get Hank out some a day after doing a 50,
to see how he behaved. He was a good boy, and finally showed me he
was a little tired. It was the first time that he actually acted
tired since this ride began. We think it is good to get them to that
point once and awhile, with out over doing it. (remember Hank, you
are never sure how far we are going, so save the energy from being
silly, to using it to go down the trail)

The weather changed, and we had some rain come in. Not a huge amount,
but enough to make the dirt wet, and the sage brush smell fresh.
Riding out across the vast open space of these cattle ranches, makes
you really think about what a hard life some of these people have
chosen. This land is big, wide open, and lonely. We saw pick up
trucks heading out across dirt roads far from any sign of
civilization. We rode 15 miles of dirt road, and never saw ANY
building or structure as far as we could see. Fence lines keeping the
different cattle herds separate are the only signs of humans actually
inhabiting such an area. Small herds of Antelope fly across the land
at a run, spooked by us, or maybe some other critter we do not see. I
imagine how tough the work is in the winter, with the wind, snow, and
harsh conditions, as the cows start having their babies, and might
need assistance from a cowboy. But this is a life many of these
people would never trade for another. They do not need Starbucks,
movie theaters, concerts, internet, or even electricity and running
water in some cases. They are up with the sun, and end their day as
it sets. Between, they work harder than most of us would ever
consider. While some who read this could never consider living in a
camper for 5 weeks as we are, riding their horse day after day on
historic trails,  I think how these folks live, and am glad to have
my camper each night I am on this adventure, with the comfort of
lights to read by, that are powered by the campers battery, and the
ability to fire up this laptop, and type in my thoughts and
observations from the trip. We have a warm meal each night, and a
fridge that keeps drinks and such cold. In camp and on the trail  we
have the choice of visiting with others on the ride that we have
formed lasting friendships with, or being alone. At night we can
retire for the evening to our campers and RV's to quietly read a
book, or listen to ones favorite CD. Every weekend, we can go to town
to refresh supplies, do laundry etc. while many who live in these
remote areas find going to town a "chore" rather than a reward.  My
guess that for many out here, they often have more opportunity to
chat with their horse or dog, than another human. But, again, I am
sure this is the life they feel they have been called into, and would
go crazy living in a city situation with a lot of people.

I rode along listening to the wind blow across the sage, and the clip
clop of my horses feet in the dirt. Watching the clouds move across
the sky, and scanning the countryside for signs of wildlife. It is
only a tiny glimpse into the life of a rancher or cowboy.  I am
brought back to reality as one of the crews in our group breaks the
sounds of the range, with his diesel truck coming up behind me, and
passing, heading on to our next camp. Vickie has gotten on up ahead
of me as I have been day dreaming. I finally decide Hank has had
enough for the day, and I wait for the next crew rig to pass, and
hitch a ride for the both of us. Hank is tired, and the saddle I am
using has rubbed me a tad, so it is a good time to call it a day. We
rode about 15 miles. Vickie rides on in to camp with Dave Rabe, as
the sky starts to let some rain fall. Camp is at a location we used
in 2001. It is at Robbins ranch, near some corrals, on a hill. That
night we get a bit of rain. Enough to wake me, and consider putting
the horses in the trailer. But I fal back asleep to the pitter patter
of the rain on the roof of the camper.

Robbins to Esterbrook-

The nights rain, made for a lovely cool morning. I am riding Gambler
just to lunch, and will pony (lead) Rockhe along. The trail starts
out in the open range, but is slowly working its way towards the
mountains. We ride the same road the crews drive to the next camp on,
so many stop once and awhile, to water our horses, and see if we need
anything. That is what is so cool about a group like this. They will
help not only their own rider on the trail, but will stay to assist
other riders, and offer water etc. This weather is a blessing, and
the cool air seems to have every ones spirits up. Gambler is
cheerful, and Rockhe is glad to be getting an outing too. About 5
miles before lunch, we meet a couple cowboys who are obviously
locals, out riding their horses. They are very friendly, and chat
with us a bit. Our groups is Dave Rabe, and about 6 ladies. I am sure
we are quite a sight to them, with our high tech riding clothes,
helmets instead of cowboy hats, and Dave in his cut off shorts and T
shirt.  The one man has lived there for 77 years. He remembered us
coming through in 2001, and commented to someone in our group about
the man riding the `Welsh pony". Of course that was John Parke on his
Icelandic pony he remembers. So now he can tell his neighbors about
the man riding in cut off jeans, and his group of ladies riding with
him! After we head on up the road, and past their farm, we see a
tombstone in a field. I go read it, and see from the name and dates,
it must have been this mans daughter, who dies in 1980, at the age of
29. They buried her not in some cemetery in the city, but out in an
open field, where there were views of the ranch, mountains, and land
she grew up on. Another moment to think about this lifestyle, that is
so different from what most of us know.

I got to lunch and met my waiting horse trailer, while Vickie rode on
the second half of the days ride. The second half is probably the
most beautiful of all the days rides. We climb up into Esterbrook,
through the mountains. The riders and crews still share the same
road, so even though I am not riding now, I still get to enjoy the
views. We pass many ranches and small farm houses. Many are abandoned
long ago. The meadows are green, and cattle are abundant. The weather
has given us a perfect day to enjoy. Sunshine, but not hot. The views
of some of the Wyoming mountains is breathtaking. (be sure to see my
photos at the photo link)

We finally arrive at the camp for the weekend. A nice spot near some
trees. We can go into Esterbrook, which has a lodge/café for meals,
and the closest city is Douglas, which is about 30 miles away. The
lodge has offered to do a dinner for Saturday night, and a breakfast
for Sunday AM.

Saturday we went into Casper to do laundry, shopping, and made an
attempt at internet, but failed. Maybe I can get back to town Sunday
and get this sent. Our Saturday night dinner was prime rib, and was a
huge hit. After dinner we had some entertainment of Ann Perkins and
her hubby (from Montana) singing and playing guitar, then a local
from the area sharing a few songs. Many in the crowd sang along, and
enjoyed the entertainment. This will be the last full weekend, with
most on the ride together. We will have a potluck Sunday, that will
send us into the final weeks ride. I can't believe this adventure is
winding down, and will soon just be memories………

Monday, July 19th-

Last nights potluck went well. We had a nice tree in our camp area,
so folks gathered around our rigs. Vickies horse Wind Warrior is
known to all of a sudden go after her other horses while tied to the
rig, and was a good boy until about the start of the meeting. The
stinker finally snarled at Wizard, and turned his butt towards him,
as almost all who were sitting there yelled at him and called him
names. Vickie calls him "Mamas precious boy", but we all have other
names for him when he is naughty. Somewhere during the evening, a few
Californians decided my Texas flag flying from my camper needed
replaced with the California flag.  Rob, who is crewing for Skip and
Sue Dyke claims he is innocent…..hummmm….I'll have to think on how to
pay him back. I have one week to come up with a plan.

The riders headed out early, as it is going to be a warm day. I am
sitting at the lunch spot, along a small quiet highway, laptop out,
and my truck stereo playing some of my Texas music CD's. The horses
are tied to the trailer, munching grass, as we wait for the riders. I
am not sure what days I am going to ride this week. With Tevis only
12 days away, I need to plan Gamblers days very careful, to keep him
in the best shape possible for the ride. Rockhe's back is looking
better, and maybe we can do another day with him before the ride
comes to an end on Friday.

A few riders are going to see if they can ride the same horse all 5
days this week, for the full distance. Laura Hayes from New York has
really been enjoying the XP experience, and is ready to try to come
out west for some of the other XP rides this Fall.  Last night,
Lauras crew found a kitten along one of the rural roads on the way
back to camp from town. They named it "Brook", for Esterbrook.  They
already have one cat that has been traveling with them. The dogs who
are along for this adventure have become known to most everyone in
camp. I am not a huge "dog in camp" fan, but when you spend weeks on
the road, you get to know other peoples horses and dogs well enough,
that you end up fussing over them, giving them treats, and calling
them by name as if they were part of your own critter family. Goose
(the Nicholsons dog) and Murphy (Laura Hayes' Springer Spaniel) have
been the most social. Pat and Bob Verhule found a dog in Ft. Bridger,
and it acts like it has been their dog for years. Seems many of us
get to know the animals better than the people. Rockhe gets fussed
over by others on a regular basis, as he likes to have people stop
and play with him. Even Gambler, who has been so shy in the past,
somehow convinces people to stop to pet him with his expressions and
actions.

Well, it is getting hot, and the riders are coming down the mountain,
leaving the cooler temp. behind. Camp tonight will be in Guernsey WY,
at Register Cliffs. This is another point settlers signed their names
on the cliff as they headed west. A river is nearby, that will be
refreshing after a hot day on the trail to go hang out and maybe soak
ones feet (or more) in.

Jonni (in a wonderful little library in Guernsey WY)

South Pass (Lander) WY weekend July 10-12

As we were doing chores in town on Friday, a handful of riders went
out to do a ride from camp, over towards the mountains, into the
wilderness area. The riders knew the trail had not been pre-ridden,
and the waypoints were done for the GPS from a mapping program. But,
what trail showed on the map, turned out to be hard to find, and the
spirited group of riders found themselves having to blaze trail
through the trees, boulders, and some mud / bogs. It turned into an
adventure that many had not anticipated, but all came in to camp in
fine shape, and were really talking about the adventure they had.
Some saw some wildlife, including a possible Wolf sighting. This was
a day of true trail riding…or maybe trail finding! But no one who
rode that day will forget the days ride.

Saturday Vickie and I trailered over towards the mountains, and
parked and did a 14 mile loop. My topo maps proved that the trails I
picked were still there, and we got to ride back into the wilderness,
and see some of the prettiest country WY has to offer. We climbed up
on to high mountain slopes, with views of the Wind River range of
mountains. Then, we dropped down into a series of lakes and ponds,
that had beautiful water lily type plants floating. We saw one moose,
but could not get my camera out fast enough to get a photo. I rode
Gambler, and ponied Hank. Hank marked right into all the stream
crossings like an experienced trail horse. He has done So well on
this trip! The end of the ride found us at Lake Louis, where we
stopped for a soda and candy bar, before heading back up the road to
where we parked the trailer. A very pretty, relaxing day in the
mountains. Sunday was a trip to town again, for laundry, shopping,
and a shower at the RV park. We did a little bit of car travel and
sight seeing on the way back to camp.

Monday July 12th-

Today we rode the same ride the few riders did on Thursday. It was 50
miles, out and around Oregon Buttes. Much history in this area, from
early settlers crossing through this area on the way from east to
west. I rode Gambler, and he was a bit sluggish. I went slow all day,
and we just chugged along. I was also fighting a sinus infection, so
I was not very enthusiastic either. The views of the buttes and
canyons around that area were very interesting. I also found a
skeleton of deer or small elk, that had an electronic tracking collar
laying near it. (photo on photo page) Not sure if collar had been on
that animal or not. John Parke and his son Will rode the Icelandic
ponies, and I got to ride with them some. Will is a tough young man.
He had not ridden since Dec. , and rode the whole 50 miles. After I
finished, I decided Gambler is fit for Tevis, and now can just take
it easy, with some partial days rides between now and then, to keep
him tuned, but not "wore out". We think the altitude is getting to
some of the horses, and us. We have now been at over 7000' for about
2 weeks, and that is the time frame that some start to feel the
effects of the altitude. Might be why I got the sinus infection, as
my system is run down. (and maybe why Gambler was lack luster
yesterday on the ride)

Well, last trip to Lander, to the libraries internet, and then off to
the next series of remote camps. Riders on the trail today, are
heading down off south pass, towards the 6th crossing of the
Sweetwater River. Coming to town today was a much better choice for
me! Now, off to down load weekend photos, and hit the road again…..

Jonni

Week 3

We left Salt Lake Sunday afternoon, to head up to the staret point
for week three. The camp was near Robertson WY, which is south of
Ft. Bridger. Arriving after the ride meeting, but before dark, we
got the horses settled in. A few new rigs have arrived, and we
notice a few have left the ride. Very common it seems on the XP
rides for riders to come and go a little. The next day, Vickie and I
are mounted up on our flea bitten grey horses. She on Wizard, me on
Rockhe. The first 10 miles were though local farm land, which had
many running rivers, green fields, Aspen and pine trees, ands nice
dirt roads tro ride on. We passed cattle and sheep ranches, and
stopped to talk to a few locals as they asked what we were doing out
there. People are very fascinated with our adventure. We reached Ft.
Bridger, and crossed the highway, and it seemed the trail went from
lush green, to sage brush. Wyoming has such a varied selection of
terrain. Yellowstone and the Tetons, and prairie as far as you can
see. Lush green pastures, and brown, sandy sage. The main thing is
so much open space, and solitude. We rode along and found sections
of the original pony express trail, that is well marked with cement
markers. This is a section that was also the Oregon, Mormon, and
Californian trail. The land has little rise and fall, and the views
go on forever. We saw a few Antelope running lickity split. A few
say they saw Prairie dogs. The prairie dogs dig some big holes out
there, which we have to watch foe, to avoid the horses stepping in
them. Even though the trail is fairly flat, the first horse to camp,
took almost 10 hours. (they had an hour lunch). The riders are being
careful with their mounts, as many have had some lameness issues,
and  are down to fewer, or even  only one horse to ride. Helen, who
came out from NY, is heading home, as her three each have some small
lameness issues, and she would rather stop now, that to try to sueek
another day out of them, and maybe make them more lame. Better to be
conservative, and have a horse that can go again in the future, than
to maybe do more injury by pushing them. Helen and her husband Gary
will be missed. This was their first XP, and I think they are
hooked! (Gary was the one who met us one day on the trail to give us
snacks and drinks)

We finally arrived in camp ourselves, which was near the town of
Granger. I have finished another 50 on Rockhe, and he is perky, and
feeling good at the end. I think he could make it through Tevis if
something happened and Gambler could not go. I am pleased how quick
he has caught on, takes care of himself eating and drinking on the
trail, and is becoming more pleasant to ride. The ride camp is right
next to train tracks, and most rigs had to park fairly close to
them. By morning, all horses seemed to not really care about the
trains. (on the 2001 XP, I remember many camps were near the RR
tracks)

The next morning, riders had to ride, or be trailered about a mile,
across the train tracks, to the ride start. Sara, who has been
helping us, took my horse Gambler, and Vickie did not ride. I went
to town to get a new battery for my camper, and to try to find some
hay. Rock Springs is one of the larger cities in WY, and my first
stop as I came into town was breakfast at McDonalds. Amazing how
yummy that can be, when you have not had it awhile, and are getting
tired of a piece of fruit, or maybe a yogurt for breakfast. Searched
all over town for hay, and could not find any. I was told most was
grown out where that nights camp was going to be, so I got my new
camper battery, got fuel and propane, and headed to Farson. Stopped
at a few ranches, and no luck on hay. We were too early for the
first cutting of the year. Finally found a farmer with some that had
been rained on. Took a chance on 4 bales, at $2 a bale, and took it
to camp. (which was the local rodeo arena). Opened the bales, and
only one was good enough to feed. Oh well……

The riders were heading in, and we went to meet them, as they came
into town. They all had to cross a highway bridge, so we slowed
traffic for them to do so. Well, attempted to do so. One jerk
pulling a horse trailer, did not slow down to me waving for him to
do so, actually went into on coming traffic, on the bridge, with
some riders, heading towards a 18-wheeler, and somehow everyone
managed to not get into one ugly wreck. The rules of these rural
highway roads out here seem a tad different to the locals, than the
rest of us.

When Sara arrived on Gambler, we got her a ice cream at the "famous'
ice cream store, as she headed on into camp. It was cute to see she
and her friend Calina riding along, with cups of ice cream and a
sppon, as the horses walked along.

Wed. July 7th.

I was going to ride Rockhe again today, but discovered a saddle sore
starting on him. His saddles have always rolled to the right, due to
his way of going, and conformation, and it put too much pressure on
the left side, and he has a sore spot. Dave Rabe took Hank again for
me, to do another 50 mile ride. He gets along well with him, and
Hank likes him. Dave rode with Vickie, and I headed to the lunch
spot to crew. They were some of the first to arrive, and Hank has
this game figured out. He eats and drinks well, and acts like he has
been doing this sport awhile. Vickie was not feeling her best, but
still rode on through the second half with Dave. They ended up
getting in at 4:30, and were the first two horses to arrive. Dave
had them put Vickie as first place, as she has been a back of the
pack rider for years and years. (used to race, get BC etc. but now
takes it slower)  Hank looked great, and even though it was only his
2nd 50 mile ride, I had no issue with him coming in in front with
Dave. (not like the 4:30 finish time was very speedy) At the awards,
I was excited to find out Hank got BC.  I think this horse is going
to be very talented in endurance…now if I can just keep up with him.
Dave did get to experience one of Hanks many talents. Dave's T-shirt
that was on the saddle blew off in the high wind as they were
trotting down the trail, and landed in FRONT of Hank. Hank went from
a forward moving trot, to trotting backwards as fast as he could in
one easy movement. Did not unseat Dave, but sure caught him by
surprise.

The wind has howled all day, and now as I type this, it is gusting
again. The camper is rocking and jerking around, and I have visions
of the wizard of Oz, and Dorothy looking to see how high off the
ground she was. Hopefully this storm will blow through, and it will
be a nice day to ride tomorrow

Thursday, July 8th

What a rough night. I woke up at about 4AM to wind and rain, and
went to check the horses. Gambler was really shivering, so I loaded
all the boys in the horse trailer, to get them out of the weather.
At about 6AM, I went to check on them, and the wind had died down
some, and they had warmed up. Put them back outside, and fed and
watered them. All the horses in camp looked very tired. I think the
weather kept them all awake, and cold, and just plain wore them out
physically, and mentally. Only 3 riders went out on today's trail.
Two did the whole 50 miles. Dave Rabe, and John Parke. We skipped
riding, and headed into the town of Lander. We ate, did a little
shopping, looked for hay, and went to the library, to try to get the
photos and journal downloaded. The library has brand new wireless,
but it is not connecting well with my computer. I'll try again
tomorrow. When we got back to camp, the sun was out, and the wind
finally died down to a clear, calm night. It got down to about 39
degrees.

Friday, July 9th

We have appointments in town to get the oil changed on our trucks,
so I skipped the group ride today. I drove over to the wilderness
area, where the riders were headed. I investigated some, and drove
back to a beautiful lake called Lake Louis. I think maybe tomorrow,
I'll try to get a few riders to trailer over with me, to go for a
ride further in the mountains. I was told we should be able to see
some wildlife, including Moose. In town, I got some Topo maps, and
then headed back to the library. The wireless will still not
connect, so I have one more way I think I can get this on line. I
hope to copy the information to a CD from my laptop, then use a
library computer to read it, and go on line to post it. If you are
reading this, it worked!! The information highway moves a tad slow
in Lander WY, but it does move.

Monday we will do the same trail the 3 riders did on Thursday. They
were lucky enough to see a herd of about 25 elk that day. Should be
more interesting that just all the sage we have been riding through.

Rockhe still has a sore area on the left side of his back, so I'll
keep resting him, and then will try the shim to prevent the saddle
from rolling to the right on him. (it happens with all saddles, all
riders) Gambler looks really good, and is holding his weight well,
and seems fit and cheerful. He should be ready for Tevis unless
something happens between now and then. I'll take it easy with him,
and just do the easy rides. Hank is still chubby, and seems happy to
be out on this adventure. I'm going to try the borrowed Big Horn
saddle on him. Until he stops his often quick maneuvers, I best not
ride the English saddle, as it has my legs places more dressage
like, which I am not as used to, and he is So round, he is hard to
really grip and sit deep when he gets goofy.

Hope to update again next week, but next weekend is out in
Esterbrook WY, which is VERY remote. Might not be able to connect,
but will try.

Until then……..Jonni

The weekend near the little lake went well. It turned out to be more
pleasant than the first visual impression made it out to be.
The "youth" in camp did some campfires and got to relax. Most
everyone took a visit to the lake, with some fishing for trout, and
others swimming their horses in the water. I took each of my three
down, and they got cleaned up in the water, and did a little
swimming. The trip into Ely for food, laundry, shopping etc. kept us
in touch with civilization. We did some riding during the weekend on
the trails above camp in the mountains. Although it was a dusty,
dirty camp, it was a nice place to stay the weekend.

Monday riders had to trailer about 6 miles out to pick up the trail.
This day was one that we were warned had only one known water spot,
and no place for crews to meet riders. Riders were to ride smart,
like they would not have water, and take good care of their horses.
The weather was cooler than it had been, with some clouds, a little
rain, and even a little hail on some riders. We skipped this day, and
headed to the next camp. We passed through Ely, got water, fuel,
dumped the holding tanks etc. on the RV's, and a little more
shopping. Vickie bumped a rock or some thing with her black water
holding tank, and punched a hole in it. Thankfully after we had
dumped it. We got supplies to patch it, and headed to camp. This camp
is in a small gravel pit, and not all the rigs could fit. After we
got settled in, we went for a short ride. On the way in, Hank got
goofy, and I popped a spur a little to hard in him, and he set off
bucking again. Yep…..I hit the ground. Just a scratched elbow.
Tomorrow, the stinker gets to do 25 miles…

June 29th, Butte Valley to Tippits

Saddled up Hank, and Vickie rode Wizard. The trail started up through
the small pines, and up over the mountain, and down into a valley.
Many mustang tracks scattered in this area, but we did not see any
out and about. It was a cool morning, and the horses were ready to
go. We passed an old cemetery, with wooden grave markers, then out on
to a wide gravel road, through a canyon. So far, Hank is doing well
for his first real "distance" ride. It is a lovely day. As we left
the canyon, we entered a very long stretch where we cross the sage
brush covered desert. I much prefer the mountain trails, but to have
a mountain, we must have low areas. We are on the original Pony
Express trail. As we trot along, Hank and I are out in front, when
the jerk spooks, my feet come out of the stirrups, he is goofy,
jumping around, and I can't grip with my legs on the sheepskin cover
on the saddle. (plus he is VERY wide, and hard to grip anyway) So, I
make another unscheduled dismount, and he goes down the trail to the
horse behind him. I gather him up, climb back on, and we trot and
trot, and trot for a long time across the desert. He needs to just
get a good work out, which he does. We come to the highway crossing,
and one of the riders husbands is there with water for the horses,
and snacks and Gatorade for us. A very pleasant surprise! Then up
another graded road, over another pass, and into lunch. I call it a
day for Hank, at 26 miles, but Vickie rides on, and does the whole 50
miles. A scattering of rain hits some riders, but it is welcome by
most. I head off to camp, and find it in another corner intersection
of sagebrush and sand. At least we have plenty of room for everyone!

We have had a few riders leave the ride already, and it is only week
two. There are a few holding tanks ( RV water) that have been
damaged, a couple rope burns on the horses from getting tangled in
their ropes, and a few crew / rider squabbles. Welcome to the XP…………

Day 8, June 30, Tippits to Willow Springs

Today it is time to try a full 50 mile day with Rockhe. He has only
done one 50 mile ride, and that was last year. Today is a good day to
do so, as it is fairly flat, with less climbs over-all. Vickie has
Sara ride Thunder in the morning. She is excited about actually
getting to ride on the Historic Pony Express trail.  Heading out of
camp, across the sage brush covered desert, we catch up to Stephanie
from Atlanta. She has been doing just 25 miles with her horses each
day. We also ride withy Skip and Sue Dyke from California, who we
camped next to many times in 2001 during the 2000 mile ride from MO.
To NV. The crews are able to meet us today a few times, next to the
roads, to offer the horses water.  The road / trail passes a few
ranches, which offer the only specks of green in the brown desert
terrain. The riders cross into Utah today. One state down, three to
go. A few historical markers are along the trail, including the
Lincoln Highway, and Deep  Creek XP station. Lunch is in Ibapah. Not
much of a city, but they do have a Rodeo Arena! Sara changes horses,
to ride Wind Warrior the second half of the day. Rockhe is doing very
well, and after our one hour lunch, we head out on the trail again.
We have a long stretch of desert, and a climb up over another pass,
and down into the next valley. With our GPS's in hand, we start on a
section of original Pony Express trail that is hard to see. This is a
national historic trail, yet is it slowly disappearing, where future
generations might not ever be able to see where the Pony Express
riders galloped across the country to deliver mail and news. After a
long warm day, we arrive in Calleo, where the Willow Springs XP
station was located. The real treat is, we are camped on GRASS!!! A
wonderful green pasture. No dirt, no sage, and the sounds of cattle
off in their pastures. A lovely spot. The owner of the property gave
us a tour of the XP building that is still standing.  This little
community is 80 miles from the nearest real town. The have residents
who know some medical skills, and if there is a fire, they have a
couple small fire pumpers. It is a hay and cattle area, and they love
their lifestyle, and probably don't look forward to those trips to
town to do business and shopping. Rockhe finished his 50 miles in
great form. Stephanie from Atlanta, also decided to ride the full 50
miles (her very 1st 50 mile ride) , and she and her horse were
looking great at the end.

July 1, Day 9, Willow Springs to Dugway

Today was going to be interesting. I am riding Gambler, but our
friend Dave Rabe is going to ride my horse Hank, and try to do the
full 50 mile ride. Hank did very well on his 25 mile ride the day
before yesterday, and we think he is ready to try a 50 mile ride.
Dave is an excellent rider, and can deal with the horse being
naughty. He has ridden tens of thousands of miles in endurance, and I
know he will take very good care of Hank for me. We leave our little
green Oasis in the middle of nowhere, and head out the road, and then
on to the Pony trail again. I am starting to feel more in shape, and
my horses Gambler is feeling good too. Hank is being a good boy, and
Dave must think I am crazy when I say he can be goofy at times. The
trail was a lot of the original pony trail, often hard to find, even
with the GPS way points. The morning started out with a nice cloud
cover, but the afternoon turned very warm. It was nice to have crews
meet us again at the road crossing with water for the horses and
riders. We rode in a group of about 6 – 8 today. Joyce Sousa, Tinker
Hart, Heather Hackworth, Laura Hayes, Laura Horst, Dave Rabe, Vickie
Greene and a few others came and went as we trotted our horses east
towards our goal of Nebraska. Our in the desert sections, we have to
watch for Badger holes, to keep the horses from stepping in them. An
endless job in some sections. We had a couple climbs up over some
passes, with forever views of the valleys below. At lunch, Tinkers
hubby accidentally got into some mud, and the rig got stuck, but
before to long, other crew members were pitching in to help get their
rig out. I am watching my horse Hank as Dave is riding him, and
seeing this horses is enjoying this. He seems to be very content to
trot along all day. At the end of the day, coming into yet another
lovely camp at the corner of sage and sand, he was one happy horse,
who was NOT over tired, and still had some get up and go if needed. I
am very proud of him for doing so well.  Gambler also did well, and
my only real sore spot was the bottom of my feet, from walking down
some of the hills. Two 50 mile days in a row for me, and I am feeling
like I am starting to get into good shape.

We are not going to ride Friday, and head on into Salt Lake City
instead, to get started on the weekend chores, to get ready for week
three. Vickie's patch on her holding tank is working, but now my tank
is acting up, and leaking, so we need to look into that little issue.
The ride Monday will start in WY, as we trailer past the last parts
of Utah. I am ready for some time in the city, before we head that
direction. I need to dump the photos on line, and this silly little
journal……..

Friday, July 2nd, Salt Lake City

After some searching, we found an equestrian park to put our boys in
some stalls for a couple nights, while we get some things done in
town. (laundry, fixing a leaky black tank on my camper, shopping,
cleaning etc.)  I am sure the horses are as happy as we are to get
out of the dust and dirt of the desert. On the way out of camp this
AM, we saw a small band of Mustangs running across the sage and sand.
A beautiful, and breath-taking sight. Later we saw a large herd, that
seemed BLM controlled, near a feeder. They were not bothered by us
driving past them. It was sort of sad to see them so calm and
unbothered. More like a herd of ranch horses, than Mustangs. A couple
of Pronghorns were also sighted as we drove out of the desert, and
into Salt Lake. We decided to splurge, and get a motel for the night
(maybe two). I was VERY excited to find the room had a bath TUB, and
not just a shower. Ahhhhhh, a nice soak in a hot tub!!

The horses are looking great. I had them loose in the arena at the
fairgrounds, and they are all moving well, and are as sound as can
be. Some riders are having some lameness problems with some of their
horses. It is tough when you only bring a couple, and one has
something happen, leaving you just one horse to ride. A few riders
have left the ride completely for various reasons, some to return
later in the ride. Monday we will start our trek across Wyoming. So
far I have ridden just 180 miles of the trail in the last 8 days of
riding we had available. But Wednesday and Thursday I did both days,
(50 miles each day, different horses) and was feeling pretty good.
The heat is not bothering me as much as before, and my knees have
been better. The soles of my feet have been tender from walking down
some hills with the wrong boot / sock combo, but will work that issue
out in the next week or so. I am actually amazed how good I am
feeling over all, since I was not in the shape I wanted to be in at
the start of the ride.

I'll try to get to a truck stop when I can, to do another update.

Jonni

Here I am, sitting in my camper, trying to remember what I wanted to
share about the first week of the XP2004, realizing I had not done
good notes, and hoping the laptop battery does not give up. I guess
mt last post was heading to Oklahoma to get Vickie's new truck….I
left Tulsa on noon Friday, and 1500 miles, and 5 states later I was
in Los Angeles Saturday by midnight. We got her truck and trailer
rigged together, and we were on the road to the ride by Monday at
about 10 AM. We connected with our crew / drivers, Jeff and Alex a
few hours up the road.  Also along helping us is Sara, who works for
Vickie with her horses. We have the two truck and trailers, each with
3 horses each, and Jeff and Alex have a travel trailer to house
themselves for the next 5 weeks. Driving up 395 in California through
the valley below the eastern Sierras, reminds me of all the times my
hubby and I used to go up there to trout fish the small streams and
the lakes. It is a beautiful area, with the sierras jetting up out of
the desert floor. We pass the highest peek on the lower 48, Mount
Whitney. (if I remember, over 11,000 feet)  From the highway,
surrounded by sage brush and sand, it is hard to imagine that such a
mountain is off to out left.

We arrive in Bishop (Home of Bishop Mule days every Memorial Day
weekend), and stop to fuel and get food. Jeffs trailer lights are
acting up, so they work on them, as we go to add water to our tanks
in the horse trailers, and do a little more grocery shopping.
Finally, we are on the road again. Heading into the Nevada desert,
nightfall has taken over, and we can only see what our head lights
offer. In my case, the back of Jeffs trailer, and some pavement…and
some sage brush. I understand it is not much more to view in the
daylight.

We arrived in Cold Springs around Midnight, being a day early to this
campsite to the ride. We have skipped the first two days riding, and
use Wednesday to get tack organized, and be ready to ride Thursday.
Slowly rigs arrive from Tuesday nights ride and camp, and start to
fill up the camping area. Dinner in the café is appreciated, as we
will be on camp food for the next few days at the least.

Thursday we head out to do our first 50 mile ride. I take Gambler,
who is not in top condition, but is able to do a full 50, and Vickie
rides Wind Warrior, who needs to learn to slow down and relax, as he
might not know how far, or how many days he will be ridden. I am very
out of shape, which my body reminds me right away. We head out across
the desert, on the Pony Express trail, then up over some mountains
that have Aspen trees, a few streams, and often remains of some
building built long before our time, but the rock structures have
weathered time, and still stand (often only partially) to remind of
us the ways they did things when this was the land they lived on, as
harsh and unforgiving as it was. Old hand cut corrals and pens are
passed through, with it being many years since hey held cattle. We
leave the mountains, across another valley, that goes on forever.
Views of another mountain range are in the distance. We finally get
to our luch and vet stop. It is the edge of a dry lake bed, that the
crews have driven out to meet us. The hour flies by, and we are back
on the horses. By this time, my body is starting to have more sore
spots, especially the knees. (they have gave me trouble before)
Our other worry at this time is the alkali soil, causing "scratches"
on the horses legs. We keep applying Desitine on them, to help keep
the dirt from causing the irritation, and them breaking out. Finally,
we head up another mountain. This one is not that high, and soon we
drop into yet another valley. We start getting near some ranches, and
my horse is convinced we should turn towards one of them, as it MUST
be camp. As we pass one ranch, the owner has water for the horses,
and a hose set out to cool them (and us) off. He then gives each of
us a blue agate from the local hills. We also find out he has a few
bales of certified weed free hay we can purchase, which we will need
in the wilderness area later in the ride. This has been a long day
for my out of shape body, but Gambler has done very well. We arrive
at camp, which was not more that an area of sage brush, dirt, dust,
and wind.

Day 4, I decide to ride Rochkhe just the first half, which is 30
miles to lunch. We trailer a few miles up the road, to pick up the
Pony Express trail, and head off across…..you guessed it, a long
valley, heading towards the hills. Not much natural water on the
trail. We did have some water set out for us, which my horse
rejected. Many gates to get off and open and close, but we were
riding with Dave Rabe, who is so kind as to take care of the task for
us. He does these flying mounts, that are great entertainment if you
have never seen him do so before. The horse starts trotting or
loping, he runs beside, and then swings up into the saddle. Up over a
mountain pass, and through some Pinion Pines. We start to see cattle,
so I hope that means we find water for the horses. A shallow creek,
which Rockhe sips, but does not drink well. Then, a large tire which
has a pipe fed spring into it, but he would rather scratch his face.
Out across a very, very long valley, and then we head up a mountain
that the old telegraph lines used to run. The telegraph wire is on
the ground in many places, and we must watch where we take the
horses, so they do not get caught. This is a long, hard pull, and I
know Rockhe is getting tired. We finally get to a spring, that is all
but a trickle. By now, my horse has figured out he better drink when
he can, but not much there to do so. On up the mountain we climb,
until my GPS tells us the top was about 7700 feet. We start down, and
see green grass, indicating possible water. We get some very small
pools, that Rockhe works his face into, and drinks well. This was
great train ing for him, as he needed to learn more on taking care of
himself, and drink when he is offered water. The can get spoiled
riding in areas with a lot of water, as they do not know to drink
when they can. We follow the creek down the draw, and lunch is near(
and the end of our ride). I went to the creek again to offer more
water. As I turned to leave, Rockhe sank in a bog, then turned and
pushed to jump up the embankment (about 3') out of the creek and bog.
He landed off balance, and as he kept himself from falling, the
saddle rolled to the left, as did I, and I dropped the short distance
to the ground. He wandered off to the closest water, and started to
drink. At least I know he felt it more important to get another
drink, than leave me stranded. <grin>  I mount up, and finish the
day. Vickie rode on, and did the whole 50 miles. Our camp was out in
more sage brush, in the middle of nowhere.

I decided not to ride the 5th day, and give my knees a break. I took
my horses on to the next camp, which would be our camp for the
weekend, while Vickie rode her 3rd horse on the 50 mile ride. Camp is
near a small lake. More dirt and duct, but against the mountain, and
nicer than the previous ones. We camp into Ely to do laundry, shop,
and for me to finish this quick journal, and send photos. Sorry the
information is spotty, and photos not labeled, but I only have so
much time, and a VERY slow laptop…..until next week…..
Jonni

Well, since arriving in L.A., I have been prepping my friend Vickie's
new to her trailer for the ride. We had to add more hooks in the
tackroom, add bucket holders, Hi-Ties, and outfit the living
quarters. Then, get her tack washed, ready, and packed, while she
finished up some business stuff. Hard to really think about all that
needs done before leaving home for about 6 weeks. My horses have been
hanging out, not getting much work, but getting lots of hay, of all
kinds, so their tummies will be ready for what ever kind of hay we
can find on the road, that is for sure! We each will have 3 horses
along, and can carry about 600-700 pounds each of hay at a time. So
we just buy it on the road. Last time we had great luck buying hay
when we needed it, and of good quality. (and we feed Purina Strategy,
which is easy to find, and the horses do well on it. Oh, and beet
pulp)

The last thing we were waiting for was the new truck Vickie ordered,
to arrive at the dealer in Oklahoma.  We got word Thursday AM that it
was ready, and I caught a flight. It had a lay over in Dallas, so my
hubby met me at the airport. What he did not know, is I talked the
airline into shifting my flight from Dallas to Tulsa, to Friday AM,
instead of Thurs. PM.  So, I got to come home for the night, see all
my critters, and actually spend time talking to my hubby face to
face, instead of over the phone. When I get home the beginning of
Aug. (after Tevis) he will be off working for a couple more weeks,
until he then gets home. Our cell phone bills are gonna be hefty,
that's for sure!!!

  Soooooo, I am off to OK to pick up the truck, and drive it back to
LA. At least without the horses along, I can zip along a little
easier, and only have to stop to take care of ME, not the horses.
LOL  The XP ride starts Monday, but we might skip the first 2 days.
We will see after I get back to LA, and see how much we have left to
do to get ready. I think we are pretty much set. Then it will be life
on the road with the horses. I wonder if they are as excited as we
are....somehow I bet they aren't.

Next note will hopefully be that we are on our way!!!!

Jonni

Well, here is a start of our adventure for the summer. The plan will
be to keep this journal on my laptop, and just download it when I get
a chance. I'll also shoot photos, which will be loaded to a photo
site. We will see how well this works. This may be the last post you
get to read! Along with the adventures, which I will try to make
sound as exciting as possible, I will include the list of the CD's I
listened to along the road. We listen to mostly Texas musicians that
play country, or what is known as Americana to some. Also, known as
Alt-country to others. But is is NOT that stuff Nashville tries to
tell us is country, but is really pop music with a fiddle……so, here
we go, starting with my trip out to L.A. with the 3 horses.


Tuesday 6-8-04


Headed out about 6AM.I am a day behind leaving, as I forgot to get
health certificates on the horses. Also ended up with some last. Min.
plumbing repairs on the camper.  Stopping to fuel up in town, and to
McDonald's for breakfast to go. The clouds were rolling in, and I had
sprinkles off and on for the first few hours. Leaving Decatur,
heading up 81/287 towards Amarillo. Rain was expected in Decatur,
with potential of more flooding in some areas.(little did I know it
would be another 5-6" in about the next 24 hours) The clouds kept the
heat down,and made the sky more dramadic to look at against the flat
landscapes of NW Texas.  Stopped at Walmart in Vernon and got the
boys some carrots, and a 5 gallon diesel container. Decided to fill
it when diesel was cheap, and to have it along just in case.  The
boys traveled well into Amarillo, where I got fuel, and unloaded them
for about and hour to let them eat, and stand outside. Gambler ate
his mash, but the other two only nibbled on theirs. (the mash is made
with pelleted feed, beet pulp and water and helps add some fluids to
their systems, and keep their tummies working well) Hitting the road
again, I am thankfull for the CD player and a great selection of
music along.  I am also thankful for the radar dector, which reminded
me a few times how these small Texas towns make a lot of their
revenue…from folks speeding through town!  By now, the clouds had
been left behind me to spill on our county, and the heat was rising
in Amarillo. Loaded the boys from their break, and hit the road
again. About 40 miles from the NM border, I look off to the frontage
road and see Gene Glasscock, the man riding to all 48 state capitols.
I met Gene some weeks before, as he was heading to Oklahoma City. He
is now heading to NM with his 3 horses. He has been on the road since
2002, and has another year or two to go, to finish his journey. A
wonderful man to meet and visit with. I looked for a quick exit to go
say hello, but the next exit was about 20 miles up the road, so I
could not stop. New Mexico was hot. 98 to 101 for most of the day..
Stopped at a rest area to give the boys water and a rest, then on
into Albuquerque. I have a spot near the Flying J that I park each
time I have passed through with the horses, and I can unload and tie
to the trailer, while I rest some. It is behind a truck wash, where
they let me get water, and they are open late, so it has activity,
and not completely secluded. I grabbed a salad at the truck stop, and
then take care of the horses, and try to sleep some.

Music for this stretch:

Houston Marchman – Levin' Dallas
Chris Knight- Jealous Kind
Jay Johnson – Images
Cooder Graw – Shifting Gears
Cooder Graw – Cooder Graw
Mark Gorman – All night long
Brian Burns – Angels and outlaws
Macon Greyson – Miles from here
Jack Ingram – Hey You
Tom Russell – Indians cowboys horses dogs






Wednesday- 6-9-04

Note I said I "tried" to sleep, but couldn't, so loaded the boys, and
headed down the road a little longer. They had about 3 hours rest
there. I was craving some late night breakfast, and then saw the
perfect exit ahead. It had a   Denny's and Wal-Mart. Had some
breakfast, then parked at Wally's to sleep. All Wal-Mart's allow RV's
to park at night. I left boys in trailer, and slept a few hours. Hank
finally woke me up by pawing in the trailer. (bet he had to pee,
which he hates to do anyplace but home) Hit the road again, and the
sun was coming up as I got to AZ. Stopped at the border, for them to
check my horses paperwork. AZ is tough on this, and will chase after
you if you don't stop when noted to do so. Stopped at the next Flying
J on the route, in Winslow AZ.  Did not see any girls in flat bed
Fords though. Let the boys unload, and eat some. Rockhe has not been
looking like he was feeling well, and  looking a little funky, so he
got a bit of oral banamine. He was eating, but not drinking like I
would like to see him. Very grumpy too….

Well, the wind picked up big time, and slowed my progress, as it
bumped me all around. Thank goodness for dual rear wheels or I would
have really been sent everywhere. A 20-30mph cross wind, hitting the
sides of a camper and horse trailer gives one new meaning to "white
knuckles". My fingers were sore from grasping the wheel so hard for
hours.  The weather cooled in Flagstaff to about 47. Nice change!
Took a quick 20 min nap, and hit the road again. Rockhe feeling a tad
better, but now Gambler does not want carrots unless hand fed to him.
(spoiled maybe???) I hit CA, and finally found a place to stop in
Needles. Not too close to the train tracks! (Hanks eyes got huge when
it started to move down the tracks) Only 250 miles to go. Don't let
the phrase California desert fool you. This section of road has many
long grades to go up and down. In CA they keep the speed limit for 18
wheelers  and trucks and trailers to 55 mph. Hard to get a good run
for the next hill, and not go over the speed limit. Those who don't
make a bit of a run, end up crawling up the long hills at minimal
speeds. Only to go racing down the other side again! I finally get to
Victorville, a true garden spot of the state, and home to the Roy
Rogers museum, where you can see Trigger in all his (stuffed) glory!
I turn off to take the back road around the mountain, to avoid the
freeway system of So. Calif.  I am feeling the anticipation of
getting the horses to Vickie's house, and out of the trailer and into
some corrals so they can finally really relax. The sun is setting as
I arrive in L.A.County. I get to Vickie's, and get the horses settled
in, and then off to shower, and get some real rest myself. With the
horses needing a little extra rest on the way out, I found that I did
not rest as much! I think I was asleep by the time my head hit the
pillow.

Hal Ketchum – Past the point of rescue
Darrell Scott – Aloha from Nashville
Max Stalling – Wide Afternoon
John Denver – Spirit
Eagles – Hotel CA
Nanci Griffith – Flyer
Pat Alger – True love and other short stories
Mark DAVID Manders – Tales from the couch circuit
Joe Pat Hennen – Brand new day
\Jesse Dayton – Tall Texas tales
Darrell Scott – Theater of the unheard

THURSDAY – 6-10-04

I woke early, and checked the horses. They were all eating breakfast,
and looked like they rested some. All had drank real well, and were
rehydrating themselves. Travel is so hard on them, especially when
they don't drink enough water!! I took them up to the arena to turn
them loose together. They all ran around, played some, and rolled in
the dirt real well. Hank has not seen any of Vickie's peacocks yet.
Poor horse will have fit when he does! As it is, I wonder what he
thinks of being stuffed in a trailer, and taken away from his quiet
pasture in Texas, to be stuck in a corral in So. CA with all it's
different noises and such.

I started to make a list of things to get, to work on Vickie's
trailer, to prep it for our trip. Home Depot will be seeing a lot of
me in the next week!

OK, let's see if I can load this to the web site, and down load the
photos from the camera, and get them on line. Hope this did not put
you to sleep! (really, it was just another test, to see if I can make
it all work)

Jonni……on the road until the beginning of Aug.

This post is sort of a test, but I might as well say something....

This summer I will be attending a 1250 mile endurance ride. 50 miles
a day, 5 days a week. It starts in Nevada, and ends in Nebraska. As
soon as we finish, we turn around, drive back to California for the
100 mile Tevis Cup ride. I'll have 3 horses along on the trip.
Needless to say, prep and planning is very time consuming.

I decided that maybe the easiest program to post about the ride from
where ever internet connections I would have, would be to set up a
Yahoo group that anyone could read, but that only I can post to.
Sounds good in my mind, but once I get to truck stops or where ever I
can get the laptop to work, will be the real test as to how easy it
works.

I have been prepping my horse trailer off and on for a few weeks. In
2001, I crewed for a friend that rode the 2000 mile ride, so I had
already done a lot to the trailer, but it needed a few more things
done to it. I worked on the tackroom mostly, to try to have it more
organized, and easier to get in and out of it with a saddle in my
arms. New plastic drawer systems were added, saddle rack
improvements, and more hooks! I also added Hi-Ties to the outside of
the trailer, and more rings to attach my hay mangers to. I already
had bucket brackets. The trailer looks like heck with all the welded
areas that are unpainted, and the chipped paint from gravel roads,
but it is very functional. Maybe it will get a new paint job after
the ride. The trailer is a 4 horse slant. The first slot will be for
feed. Trash cans will be used for bagged feed. Some hay can be stored
there too, with a roof rack holding the balance. I have a 25 gallon
water tank in the tackroom, and a 65 gallon tank mounted inside the
trailer, in the left rear corner, where some trailers have a rear
tack area. I have two spare tires along, stored inside the tackroom.
I have a  2001 Ford F350 dually,4x4 , with a 9.5' cab over camper.
This rig worked very well to get in and out of some of the more
remote camping areas.

The horse prep has not gone as well, but I have three sound, healthy
horses. Between some saddle fit issues, getting sick, and who knows
what other things have gotten in my way from getting the horses out
as much as I had planned. I will choose the days I ride each horse
wisely, and take it easy with them. The horse I plan to ride on Tevis
has a good strong endurance base, and just needs some fine tuning.

So, hopefully this will work to have a place for folks to check on
our adventure. I will have a separate photo link if I managed to get
any photos from the ride downloaded.

Jonni