Monday, July 12-

Arrived at camp, to strong winds, and another garden spot of sage
brush and sand. The camp was up from the highway, above the
Sweetwater River. Views of the surrounding mountains were nice, but
did not ease our frustration with the wind. Storms were brewing all
around, and we were not sure if we would get any rain at camp or not.
Finally, as the day closed, we started with some light sprinkles,
then finally a steady rain for awhile. The wind also died down, but
with that, came something much, much worst than blowing
sand….mosquitoes!!!! They were VERY fierce, and going after the
horses. We all sprayed the horses, and most had on blankets, but all
night we had horses stomping, rolling, rubbing on the sides of our
trailers. I can't remember dealing with so many of the
little "buggers" at once like this in a LONG time. The wind would be
a welcome relief to keep the bugs away.

Tuesday, July 13th-

We had to trailer riders from camp, about an hour, to the ride start
at Independence Rock. This was an important spot for settlers to stop
over on their trek west. Many signed their names on the side of the
rock, to let family members who were coming later on, that they had
gotten there. Also, it is said they needed to be there by July 4th,
to be able to get over the rest of the passes before winter set in up
in the high country.

Sara rode Wizard on the 50 mile ride today, and Dave Rabe rode my
horse Hank again. Dave has been down one horse with one of his own
injured, so he only has two of his to ride each week. Hank gives Dave
another to ride, and for me, it gets Hank out on the trail, learning
the ropes of being an endurance horse, while carrying less weight
than when I ride him, and also having someone who can get off and run
along with him if Hank were to need a break.

We met the riders at lunch, and then saw them a couple more times
along the trail. It was a blazing hot day to be out. Dave came in
with two other riders in the front, and the rest of the riders on the
trail trickled in slowly. The last ones got in after being out there
about 2 hours, and were pretty whooped from the heat. A good group of
tough horses and riders.

Our camp was at Stinking Creek, where we camped in 2001 also. It had
not changed much. Funny how driving into the camp, brought back the
memories of the weekend we stayed there before. Cell phone service
had only worked in one spot in the road, and I found myself there
again. The creek was just a shallow stream, but we remembered digging
a hole in '01 to make a deep spot to sit and cool off. No need to dig
another hole to soak in, for just one days stay. Not many bugs as the
previous night, and the horses rested better.

Stinking creek to Robbins-
We trailered up to the lunch spot, and rode from there. Only 2 riders
were doing the full 50 mile AERC ride today. I rode Hank, and Vickie
rode Thunder. I wanted to get Hank out some a day after doing a 50,
to see how he behaved. He was a good boy, and finally showed me he
was a little tired. It was the first time that he actually acted
tired since this ride began. We think it is good to get them to that
point once and awhile, with out over doing it. (remember Hank, you
are never sure how far we are going, so save the energy from being
silly, to using it to go down the trail)

The weather changed, and we had some rain come in. Not a huge amount,
but enough to make the dirt wet, and the sage brush smell fresh.
Riding out across the vast open space of these cattle ranches, makes
you really think about what a hard life some of these people have
chosen. This land is big, wide open, and lonely. We saw pick up
trucks heading out across dirt roads far from any sign of
civilization. We rode 15 miles of dirt road, and never saw ANY
building or structure as far as we could see. Fence lines keeping the
different cattle herds separate are the only signs of humans actually
inhabiting such an area. Small herds of Antelope fly across the land
at a run, spooked by us, or maybe some other critter we do not see. I
imagine how tough the work is in the winter, with the wind, snow, and
harsh conditions, as the cows start having their babies, and might
need assistance from a cowboy. But this is a life many of these
people would never trade for another. They do not need Starbucks,
movie theaters, concerts, internet, or even electricity and running
water in some cases. They are up with the sun, and end their day as
it sets. Between, they work harder than most of us would ever
consider. While some who read this could never consider living in a
camper for 5 weeks as we are, riding their horse day after day on
historic trails, I think how these folks live, and am glad to have
my camper each night I am on this adventure, with the comfort of
lights to read by, that are powered by the campers battery, and the
ability to fire up this laptop, and type in my thoughts and
observations from the trip. We have a warm meal each night, and a
fridge that keeps drinks and such cold. In camp and on the trail we
have the choice of visiting with others on the ride that we have
formed lasting friendships with, or being alone. At night we can
retire for the evening to our campers and RV's to quietly read a
book, or listen to ones favorite CD. Every weekend, we can go to town
to refresh supplies, do laundry etc. while many who live in these
remote areas find going to town a "chore" rather than a reward. My
guess that for many out here, they often have more opportunity to
chat with their horse or dog, than another human. But, again, I am
sure this is the life they feel they have been called into, and would
go crazy living in a city situation with a lot of people.

I rode along listening to the wind blow across the sage, and the clip
clop of my horses feet in the dirt. Watching the clouds move across
the sky, and scanning the countryside for signs of wildlife. It is
only a tiny glimpse into the life of a rancher or cowboy. I am
brought back to reality as one of the crews in our group breaks the
sounds of the range, with his diesel truck coming up behind me, and
passing, heading on to our next camp. Vickie has gotten on up ahead
of me as I have been day dreaming. I finally decide Hank has had
enough for the day, and I wait for the next crew rig to pass, and
hitch a ride for the both of us. Hank is tired, and the saddle I am
using has rubbed me a tad, so it is a good time to call it a day. We
rode about 15 miles. Vickie rides on in to camp with Dave Rabe, as
the sky starts to let some rain fall. Camp is at a location we used
in 2001. It is at Robbins ranch, near some corrals, on a hill. That
night we get a bit of rain. Enough to wake me, and consider putting
the horses in the trailer. But I fal back asleep to the pitter patter
of the rain on the roof of the camper.

Robbins to Esterbrook-

The nights rain, made for a lovely cool morning. I am riding Gambler
just to lunch, and will pony (lead) Rockhe along. The trail starts
out in the open range, but is slowly working its way towards the
mountains. We ride the same road the crews drive to the next camp on,
so many stop once and awhile, to water our horses, and see if we need
anything. That is what is so cool about a group like this. They will
help not only their own rider on the trail, but will stay to assist
other riders, and offer water etc. This weather is a blessing, and
the cool air seems to have every ones spirits up. Gambler is
cheerful, and Rockhe is glad to be getting an outing too. About 5
miles before lunch, we meet a couple cowboys who are obviously
locals, out riding their horses. They are very friendly, and chat
with us a bit. Our groups is Dave Rabe, and about 6 ladies. I am sure
we are quite a sight to them, with our high tech riding clothes,
helmets instead of cowboy hats, and Dave in his cut off shorts and T
shirt. The one man has lived there for 77 years. He remembered us
coming through in 2001, and commented to someone in our group about
the man riding the `Welsh pony". Of course that was John Parke on his
Icelandic pony he remembers. So now he can tell his neighbors about
the man riding in cut off jeans, and his group of ladies riding with
him! After we head on up the road, and past their farm, we see a
tombstone in a field. I go read it, and see from the name and dates,
it must have been this mans daughter, who dies in 1980, at the age of
29. They buried her not in some cemetery in the city, but out in an
open field, where there were views of the ranch, mountains, and land
she grew up on. Another moment to think about this lifestyle, that is
so different from what most of us know.

I got to lunch and met my waiting horse trailer, while Vickie rode on
the second half of the days ride. The second half is probably the
most beautiful of all the days rides. We climb up into Esterbrook,
through the mountains. The riders and crews still share the same
road, so even though I am not riding now, I still get to enjoy the
views. We pass many ranches and small farm houses. Many are abandoned
long ago. The meadows are green, and cattle are abundant. The weather
has given us a perfect day to enjoy. Sunshine, but not hot. The views
of some of the Wyoming mountains is breathtaking. (be sure to see my
photos at the photo link)

We finally arrive at the camp for the weekend. A nice spot near some
trees. We can go into Esterbrook, which has a lodge/café for meals,
and the closest city is Douglas, which is about 30 miles away. The
lodge has offered to do a dinner for Saturday night, and a breakfast
for Sunday AM.

Saturday we went into Casper to do laundry, shopping, and made an
attempt at internet, but failed. Maybe I can get back to town Sunday
and get this sent. Our Saturday night dinner was prime rib, and was a
huge hit. After dinner we had some entertainment of Ann Perkins and
her hubby (from Montana) singing and playing guitar, then a local
from the area sharing a few songs. Many in the crowd sang along, and
enjoyed the entertainment. This will be the last full weekend, with
most on the ride together. We will have a potluck Sunday, that will
send us into the final weeks ride. I can't believe this adventure is
winding down, and will soon just be memories………

Monday, July 19th-

Last nights potluck went well. We had a nice tree in our camp area,
so folks gathered around our rigs. Vickies horse Wind Warrior is
known to all of a sudden go after her other horses while tied to the
rig, and was a good boy until about the start of the meeting. The
stinker finally snarled at Wizard, and turned his butt towards him,
as almost all who were sitting there yelled at him and called him
names. Vickie calls him "Mamas precious boy", but we all have other
names for him when he is naughty. Somewhere during the evening, a few
Californians decided my Texas flag flying from my camper needed
replaced with the California flag. Rob, who is crewing for Skip and
Sue Dyke claims he is innocent…..hummmm….I'll have to think on how to
pay him back. I have one week to come up with a plan.

The riders headed out early, as it is going to be a warm day. I am
sitting at the lunch spot, along a small quiet highway, laptop out,
and my truck stereo playing some of my Texas music CD's. The horses
are tied to the trailer, munching grass, as we wait for the riders. I
am not sure what days I am going to ride this week. With Tevis only
12 days away, I need to plan Gamblers days very careful, to keep him
in the best shape possible for the ride. Rockhe's back is looking
better, and maybe we can do another day with him before the ride
comes to an end on Friday.

A few riders are going to see if they can ride the same horse all 5
days this week, for the full distance. Laura Hayes from New York has
really been enjoying the XP experience, and is ready to try to come
out west for some of the other XP rides this Fall. Last night,
Lauras crew found a kitten along one of the rural roads on the way
back to camp from town. They named it "Brook", for Esterbrook. They
already have one cat that has been traveling with them. The dogs who
are along for this adventure have become known to most everyone in
camp. I am not a huge "dog in camp" fan, but when you spend weeks on
the road, you get to know other peoples horses and dogs well enough,
that you end up fussing over them, giving them treats, and calling
them by name as if they were part of your own critter family. Goose
(the Nicholsons dog) and Murphy (Laura Hayes' Springer Spaniel) have
been the most social. Pat and Bob Verhule found a dog in Ft. Bridger,
and it acts like it has been their dog for years. Seems many of us
get to know the animals better than the people. Rockhe gets fussed
over by others on a regular basis, as he likes to have people stop
and play with him. Even Gambler, who has been so shy in the past,
somehow convinces people to stop to pet him with his expressions and
actions.

Well, it is getting hot, and the riders are coming down the mountain,
leaving the cooler temp. behind. Camp tonight will be in Guernsey WY,
at Register Cliffs. This is another point settlers signed their names
on the cliff as they headed west. A river is nearby, that will be
refreshing after a hot day on the trail to go hang out and maybe soak
ones feet (or more) in.

Jonni (in a wonderful little library in Guernsey WY)