Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board.  It's one of the older ones with

the red graphics on it.  The board has some minor dings along the edges and in

one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core.  I was looking for

information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction is. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.



Jake

--- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "txbluenoser" <txbluenoser@...> wrote:

>

> Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board.  It's one of the older ones with

the red graphics on it.  The board has some minor dings along the edges and in

one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core.  I was looking for

information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction is. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

>

> Jake

>



Jake .. visit   http://www.boardlady.com/      lots of advise there.



For dings .. standard Marine Tex from a marine supply shelf at your hardward

store works.  I have MarineTex kits at http://www.amoka.com/catalog



Myself for small and large repairs .. I use the liquid Fiberglass resin you find

in metal cans for automotive repairs.   Buy a quart of it and then buy extra

hardner tubes.   Practice/experiment a bit on some wood, that is bang a hammer

on some wood to dent it .. then repair it.



It's best to tape off ding area .. because liquid fiberglass flows easily.  You

want to try to get area that is to be covered to laying flat.



For a big problem add resin, fiberglass matte, more resin and then after it

cures for a couple days .. apply Marinetex and sand that then paint with epoxy

for a final perfect finish.



For board deck grit .  ReDek is still the best kit and easy to apply.

Just be sure to shake and stur ReDek extremely well just before pooring it in

the application pan.  The ReDek kit comes with a small one time usage roller .. 

I've found I can buy a normal sized paint roller and hacksaw it into three small

rollers.  They sell little corner roller handles the thirds will fit on.   Again

the trick is to get the Redek really mixed well .. it is possible to thin by

mixing with clear epoxy paint .. but be sure to test your mixture on a small

spot as clear paints can sometimes dry to be very yellowish in color.



Scott

HI Jake,







It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core.  Then the outside is

wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

Tex, or an epoxy repair.  West System is good.



It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they are

usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the fiberglass.





I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

the board where it is not needed.  (easier and faster cleanup, less sanding.



After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep it

in place.  It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

on the rails.  Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.







Good Luck







P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

have an epoxy paint instead.  Use the same repair materials and same white

paint on both boards.







Kevin Gratton



Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center



N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935



920-922-2550



www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com











   _____



From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of txbluenoser

Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

















Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones with

the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction is.

Any help is greatly appreciated.



Jake











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey guys thanks.  The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop.  It looked

like the board was plastic.  That definiatly makes life easier.



A couple of more questions if you don't mind:



What size fin screw do I need for the board.  I've got the smaller fin but no

screw for it?  Does the 90mm lever work?  Every site seems to indicate that

those are for the 2005 and newer boards.



The board came with both mast tracks.  The adjustable mast track is almost

impossible to move?  How hard should they be to move?



Thanks



Jake



--- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:

>

> HI Jake,

>

>

>

> It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core.  Then the outside is

> wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> Tex, or an epoxy repair.  West System is good.

>

> It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they are

> usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the fiberglass.

>

>

> I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> the board where it is not needed.  (easier and faster cleanup, less sanding.

>

> After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep it

> in place.  It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> on the rails.  Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

>

>

>

> Good Luck

>

>

>

> P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> have an epoxy paint instead.  Use the same repair materials and same white

> paint on both boards.

>

>

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

>

>

>

>

>   _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

> Behalf Of txbluenoser

> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones with

> the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction is.

> Any help is greatly appreciated.

>

> Jake

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

Hi Jake,







I believe the 90mm lever screw is right.   2005 and newer take a shorter

screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.



DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?







Does the adjustable track have a line in it?  If so, it's the best Adj.

track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed.  Sometimes the

line needs to be replaced.  But it is a great track once you tune it up.



Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.







cheers











Kevin Gratton



Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center



N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935



920-922-2550



www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com











   _____



From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of txbluenoser

Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

















Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.



A couple of more questions if you don't mind:



What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

those are for the 2005 and newer boards.



The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?



Thanks



Jake



--- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

"Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:

>

> HI Jake,

>

>

>

> It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

>

> It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

are

> usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

fiberglass.

>

>

> I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

sanding.

>

> After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

it

> in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

>

>

>

> Good Luck

>

>

>

> P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> paint on both boards.

>

>

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

>

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

[mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

On

> Behalf Of txbluenoser

> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

with

> the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

is.

> Any help is greatly appreciated.

>

> Jake

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Jake,







It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.







Here is a copy of the track repair.









Mast Track Repair





























From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

<http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_

thread/thread/59a88d6b6acf5202&msg=dd2b18c6c7e9042f> @qis.net>



Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400



Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm



Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks







Hello David,

I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the



mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

device.

On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees



apart.  This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

the line if necessary.  The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

also retains the pedal springs.  You will need a narrow flat blade

screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.



(By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

travel difficult.  You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

bushings.  The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

Vineyard.  That was the only store I found that had the spares.  I also

needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)



When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

place and that the springs do not pop out.  Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

and see if that eases up the travel.  If not, then you'll need to take it

all the way apart.  Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap



the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

clear the aluminum on the inside of the track.  This will allow you to slide



both end pieces and the car forward.  Don't lose theses pins- they may be

difficult to obtain in your area.  I pull the pin out of the tensioner

because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.



Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

side and a smooth surface on the other.  Rinse all parts in water and look

for wear.  If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects



the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked.  I saw this happen to



a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

through the same steps I describe.



You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two  small Phillips



head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.



For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

the track from the forward end.  Secure the front pin with nail set and then



depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

forward of the pin hole (done from the underside).  Secure in place with the



other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.



Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

the springs and locking the tensioner.



The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

hope it is helpful.  Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

turmoil.



I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon.  Read you later,



Marc







Cheers







Kevin Gratton



Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center



N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935



920-922-2550



www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com











   _____



From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

















Hi Jake,



I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.



DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?



Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.



Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.



cheers



Kevin Gratton



Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center



N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935



920-922-2550



www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com



_____



From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

[mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

On

Behalf Of txbluenoser

Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs



Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.



A couple of more questions if you don't mind:



What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

those are for the 2005 and newer boards.



The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?



Thanks



Jake



--- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

"Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:

>

> HI Jake,

>

>

>

> It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

>

> It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

are

> usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

fiberglass.

>

>

> I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

sanding.

>

> After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

it

> in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

>

>

>

> Good Luck

>

>

>

> P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> paint on both boards.

>

>

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

>

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

[mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

On

> Behalf Of txbluenoser

> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

with

> the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

is.

> Any help is greatly appreciated.

>

> Jake

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey thanks.  The rope in mine is really really tight.  I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.



I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin.  I'll be

looking for the black fin soon.



The prodigy comp rig is hard to find.  Have you ever seen it around used?



Jake



--- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Jake,

>

>

>

> It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

>

>

>

> Here is a copy of the track repair.

>

>

>

>

> Mast Track Repair

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> <http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_

> thread/thread/59a88d6b6acf5202&msg=dd2b18c6c7e9042f> @qis.net>

>

> Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

>

> Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

>

> Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

>

>

>

> Hello David,

> I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the

>

> mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> device.

> On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees

>

> apart.  This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

> the line if necessary.  The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> also retains the pedal springs.  You will need a narrow flat blade

> screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.

>

> (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> travel difficult.  You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> bushings.  The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

> bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> Vineyard.  That was the only store I found that had the spares.  I also

> needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

>

> When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> place and that the springs do not pop out.  Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> and see if that eases up the travel.  If not, then you'll need to take it

> all the way apart.  Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap

>

> the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> clear the aluminum on the inside of the track.  This will allow you to slide

>

> both end pieces and the car forward.  Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> difficult to obtain in your area.  I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

>

> Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

> side and a smooth surface on the other.  Rinse all parts in water and look

> for wear.  If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects

>

> the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked.  I saw this happen to

>

> a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> through the same steps I describe.

>

> You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two  small Phillips

>

> head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

>

> For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> the track from the forward end.  Secure the front pin with nail set and then

>

> depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> forward of the pin hole (done from the underside).  Secure in place with the

>

> other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

>

> Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

> forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

> wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

> the springs and locking the tensioner.

>

> The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

> hope it is helpful.  Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> turmoil.

>

> I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon.  Read you later,

>

> Marc

>

>

>

> Cheers

>

>

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

>

>

>

>

>   _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

> Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hi Jake,

>

> I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

>

> DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

>

> Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

>

> Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

>

> cheers

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

> _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

> On

> Behalf Of txbluenoser

> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

> Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

> like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

>

> A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

>

> What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

> screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

>

> The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

>

> Thanks

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

> "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > HI Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> >

> > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> are

> > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> fiberglass.

> >

> >

> > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> sanding.

> >

> > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> it

> > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> >

> >

> >

> > Good Luck

> >

> >

> >

> > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> > paint on both boards.

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

> On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> with

> > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> is.

> > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> >

> > Jake

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

Jake you have a Prodigy Comp board minus the fin.  Use the bigger black

Daggerboard and the adjustable track.  Get a bigger fin with lever screw.







I have fins and screws.







Yes used Prodigy 8.5 rigs are hard to find.   I rarely get one.  But every

year I sell at the end of the season I sell the ones I use in my school.

Sailors put a deposit on them and I sell them at the end of Sept.  They are

always gone at the end of the season.  So I will have new used ones the end

of this season or I have new ones in stock.







I also use the Prodigy's in my school and sell then the same way at the end

of the year.  I mostly use Prodigy Comps.







Cheers







Kevin Gratton



Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center



N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935



920-922-2550



www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com











   _____



From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of txbluenoser

Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:32 PM

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

















Hey thanks. The rope in mine is really really tight. I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.



I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin. I'll

be looking for the black fin soon.



The prodigy comp rig is hard to find. Have you ever seen it around used?



Jake



--- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

"Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:

>

> Hi Jake,

>

>

>

> It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

>

>

>

> Here is a copy of the track repair.

>

>

>

>

> Mast Track Repair

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> <http://groups.

<http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_

> google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_

> thread/thread/59a88d6b6acf5202&msg=dd2b18c6c7e9042f> @qis.net>

>

> Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

>

> Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

>

> Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

>

>

>

> Hello David,

> I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt

the

>

> mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> device.

> On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180

degrees

>

> apart. This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen



> the line if necessary. The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> also retains the pedal springs. You will need a narrow flat blade

> screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.



>

> (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> travel difficult. You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> bushings. The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my



> bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> Vineyard. That was the only store I found that had the spares. I also

> needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

>

> When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> place and that the springs do not pop out. Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> and see if that eases up the travel. If not, then you'll need to take it

> all the way apart. Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently

tap

>

> the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> clear the aluminum on the inside of the track. This will allow you to

slide

>

> both end pieces and the car forward. Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> difficult to obtain in your area. I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

>

> Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on

one

> side and a smooth surface on the other. Rinse all parts in water and look

> for wear. If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that

connects

>

> the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked. I saw this happen

to

>

> a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> through the same steps I describe.

>

> You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two small

Phillips

>

> head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

>

> For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> the track from the forward end. Secure the front pin with nail set and

then

>

> depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> forward of the pin hole (done from the underside). Secure in place with

the

>

> other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

>

> Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take



> forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with

two

> wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping

both

> the springs and locking the tensioner.

>

> The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I



> hope it is helpful. Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> turmoil.

>

> I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon. Read you later,

>

> Marc

>

>

>

> Cheers

>

>

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

>

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

[mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

On

> Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Hi Jake,

>

> I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

>

> DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

>

> Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

>

> Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

>

> cheers

>

> Kevin Gratton

>

> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

>

> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

>

> 920-922-2550

>

> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

>

> _____

>

> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com]

> On

> Behalf Of txbluenoser

> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

>

> Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It

looked

> like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

>

> A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

>

> What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but

no

> screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

>

> The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

>

> Thanks

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com,

> "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > HI Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use

Marine

> > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> >

> > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> are

> > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> fiberglass.

> >

> >

> > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material

off

> > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> sanding.

> >

> > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> it

> > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board,

especially

> > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> >

> >

> >

> > Good Luck

> >

> >

> >

> > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin

but

> > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same

white

> > paint on both boards.

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com

> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com]

> On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> with

> > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges

and

> > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> is.

> > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> >

> > Jake

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Jake!



Did you just buy this board last week in the Friendswood/Pearland area?  Do you

know any of the Houston area Prodigy sailors?



Joe the Windsurfer





--- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "txbluenoser" <txbluenoser@...> wrote:

>

> Hey thanks.  The rope in mine is really really tight.  I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.

>

> I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin.  I'll

be looking for the black fin soon.

>

> The prodigy comp rig is hard to find.  Have you ever seen it around used?

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

> >

> >

> >

> > Here is a copy of the track repair.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Mast Track Repair

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> > <http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_

> > thread/thread/59a88d6b6acf5202&msg=dd2b18c6c7e9042f> @qis.net>

> >

> > Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

> >

> > Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

> >

> > Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

> >

> >

> >

> > Hello David,

> > I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the

> >

> > mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> > device.

> > On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees

> >

> > apart.  This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

> > the line if necessary.  The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> > also retains the pedal springs.  You will need a narrow flat blade

> > screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.

> >

> > (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> > travel difficult.  You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> > bushings.  The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> > made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

> > bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> > Vineyard.  That was the only store I found that had the spares.  I also

> > needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

> >

> > When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> > place and that the springs do not pop out.  Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> > and see if that eases up the travel.  If not, then you'll need to take it

> > all the way apart.  Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap

> >

> > the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> > clear the aluminum on the inside of the track.  This will allow you to slide

> >

> > both end pieces and the car forward.  Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> > difficult to obtain in your area.  I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> > because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

> >

> > Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

> > side and a smooth surface on the other.  Rinse all parts in water and look

> > for wear.  If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> > Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects

> >

> > the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked.  I saw this happen to

> >

> > a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> > through the same steps I describe.

> >

> > You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two  small Phillips

> >

> > head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> > may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

> >

> > For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> > the track from the forward end.  Secure the front pin with nail set and then

> >

> > depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> > assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> > forward of the pin hole (done from the underside).  Secure in place with the

> >

> > other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

> >

> > Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

> > forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

> > wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

> > the springs and locking the tensioner.

> >

> > The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

> > hope it is helpful.  Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> > you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> > turmoil.

> >

> > I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon.  Read you later,

> >

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > Cheers

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr.  Fond du Lac, Wi  54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >   _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On

> > Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> > I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> > screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

> >

> > DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

> >

> > Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> > track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> > line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

> >

> > Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

> >

> > cheers

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

> > On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> > Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

> > like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

> >

> > A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

> >

> > What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

> > screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> > those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

> >

> > The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> > impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Jake

> >

> > --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

> > "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> > >

> > > HI Jake,

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> > > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> > >

> > > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> > are

> > > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> > fiberglass.

> > >

> > >

> > > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> > > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> > sanding.

> > >

> > > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> > it

> > > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> > > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Good Luck

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> > > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> > > paint on both boards.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Kevin Gratton

> > >

> > > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> > >

> > > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> > >

> > > 920-922-2550

> > >

> > > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > _____

> > >

> > > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]

> > On

> > > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com

> > > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> > with

> > > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> > > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> > is.

> > > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> > >

> > > Jake

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

Yeah, just bought it a week ago or two in the that area.  Board is in god shape

except for a couple of cosmetic dings.

 

I don't know any of the Houston Area Prodigy sailers, but I'd like too.

 

Jake



--- On Wed, 4/22/09, joethewindsurfer <joethewindsurfer@...> wrote:



From: joethewindsurfer <joethewindsurfer@...>

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com

Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 9:58 AM

















Hey Jake!



Did you just buy this board last week in the Friendswood/ Pearland area? Do you

know any of the Houston area Prodigy sailors?



Joe the Windsurfer



--- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "txbluenoser" <txbluenoser@ ...> wrote:

>

> Hey thanks. The rope in mine is really really tight. I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.

>

> I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin. I'll be

looking for the black fin soon.

>

> The prodigy comp rig is hard to find. Have you ever seen it around used?

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

> >

> >

> >

> > Here is a copy of the track repair.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Mast Track Repair

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> > <http://groups. google.com/ groups/unlock? _done=/group/ rec.windsurfing/

browse_

> > thread/thread/ 59a88d6b6acf5202 &msg=dd2b18c6c7e 9042f> @qis.net>

> >

> > Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

> >

> > Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

> >

> > Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

> >

> >

> >

> > Hello David,

> > I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the

> >

> > mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> > device.

> > On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees

> >

> > apart. This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

> > the line if necessary. The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> > also retains the pedal springs. You will need a narrow flat blade

> > screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.

> >

> > (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> > travel difficult. You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> > bushings. The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> > made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

> > bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> > Vineyard. That was the only store I found that had the spares. I also

> > needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

> >

> > When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> > place and that the springs do not pop out. Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> > and see if that eases up the travel. If not, then you'll need to take it

> > all the way apart. Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap

> >

> > the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> > clear the aluminum on the inside of the track. This will allow you to slide

> >

> > both end pieces and the car forward. Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> > difficult to obtain in your area. I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> > because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

> >

> > Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

> > side and a smooth surface on the other. Rinse all parts in water and look

> > for wear. If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> > Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects

> >

> > the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked. I saw this happen to

> >

> > a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> > through the same steps I describe.

> >

> > You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two small Phillips

> >

> > head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> > may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

> >

> > For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> > the track from the forward end. Secure the front pin with nail set and then

> >

> > depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> > assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> > forward of the pin hole (done from the underside). Secure in place with the

> >

> > other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

> >

> > Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

> > forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

> > wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

> > the springs and locking the tensioner.

> >

> > The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

> > hope it is helpful. Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> > you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> > turmoil.

> >

> > I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon. Read you later,

> >

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > Cheers

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com]

On

> > Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> > I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> > screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

> >

> > DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

> >

> > Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> > track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> > line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

> >

> > Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

> >

> > cheers

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> > Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

> > like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

> >

> > A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

> >

> > What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

> > screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> > those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

> >

> > The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> > impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Jake

> >

> > --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com,

> > "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> > >

> > > HI Jake,

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> > > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> > >

> > > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> > are

> > > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> > fiberglass.

> > >

> > >

> > > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> > > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> > sanding.

> > >

> > > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> > it

> > > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> > > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Good Luck

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> > > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> > > paint on both boards.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Kevin Gratton

> > >

> > > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> > >

> > > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> > >

> > > 920-922-2550

> > >

> > > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > _____

> > >

> > > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> > with

> > > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> > > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> > is.

> > > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> > >

> > > Jake

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Welcome aboard Jake. You need to investigate wednesday night sailing. Ask Joe.

Cheers

Mark

TX721



-----Original Message-----

From: "Jake Ormond" <txbluenoser@...>

To: "usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com" <usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: 22/04/09 18:39

Subject: Re: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs







Yeah, just bought it a week ago or two in the that area.  Board is in god shape

except for a couple of cosmetic dings.



I don't know any of the Houston Area Prodigy sailers, but I'd like too.



Jake



--- On Wed, 4/22/09, joethewindsurfer

<joethewindsurfer@...<mailto:joethewindsurfer%40hotmail.com>> wrote:



From: joethewindsurfer

<joethewindsurfer@...<mailto:joethewindsurfer%40hotmail.com>>

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com<mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 9:58 AM



Hey Jake!



Did you just buy this board last week in the Friendswood/ Pearland area? Do you

know any of the Houston area Prodigy sailors?



Joe the Windsurfer



--- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "txbluenoser" <txbluenoser@ ...> wrote:

>

> Hey thanks. The rope in mine is really really tight. I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.

>

> I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin. I'll be

looking for the black fin soon.

>

> The prodigy comp rig is hard to find. Have you ever seen it around used?

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

> >

> >

> >

> > Here is a copy of the track repair.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Mast Track Repair

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> > <http://groups. google.com/ groups/unlock? _done=/group/ rec.windsurfing/

browse_

> > thread/thread/ 59a88d6b6acf5202 &msg=dd2b18c6c7e 9042f> @qis.net>

> >

> > Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

> >

> > Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

> >

> > Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

> >

> >

> >

> > Hello David,

> > I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the

> >

> > mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> > device.

> > On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees

> >

> > apart. This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

> > the line if necessary. The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> > also retains the pedal springs. You will need a narrow flat blade

> > screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.

> >

> > (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> > travel difficult. You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> > bushings. The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> > made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

> > bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> > Vineyard. That was the only store I found that had the spares. I also

> > needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

> >

> > When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> > place and that the springs do not pop out. Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> > and see if that eases up the travel. If not, then you'll need to take it

> > all the way apart. Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap

> >

> > the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> > clear the aluminum on the inside of the track. This will allow you to slide

> >

> > both end pieces and the car forward. Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> > difficult to obtain in your area. I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> > because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

> >

> > Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

> > side and a smooth surface on the other. Rinse all parts in water and look

> > for wear. If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> > Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects

> >

> > the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked. I saw this happen to

> >

> > a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> > through the same steps I describe.

> >

> > You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two small Phillips

> >

> > head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> > may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

> >

> > For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> > the track from the forward end. Secure the front pin with nail set and then

> >

> > depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> > assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> > forward of the pin hole (done from the underside). Secure in place with the

> >

> > other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

> >

> > Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

> > forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

> > wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

> > the springs and locking the tensioner.

> >

> > The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

> > hope it is helpful. Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> > you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> > turmoil.

> >

> > I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon. Read you later,

> >

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > Cheers

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com]

On

> > Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> > I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> > screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

> >

> > DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

> >

> > Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> > track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> > line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

> >

> > Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

> >

> > cheers

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> > Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

> > like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

> >

> > A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

> >

> > What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

> > screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> > those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

> >

> > The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> > impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Jake

> >

> > --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com,

> > "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> > >

> > > HI Jake,

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> > > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> > >

> > > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> > are

> > > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> > fiberglass.

> > >

> > >

> > > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> > > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> > sanding.

> > >

> > > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> > it

> > > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> > > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Good Luck

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> > > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> > > paint on both boards.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Kevin Gratton

> > >

> > > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> > >

> > > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> > >

> > > 920-922-2550

> > >

> > > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > _____

> > >

> > > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> > with

> > > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> > > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> > is.

> > > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> > >

> > > Jake

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mark,

 

I'm definitly going to check out the Wednesday night racing.  Thanks.

 

Jake



--- On Tue, 5/5/09, Frary, Mark <mark.frary@...> wrote:



From: Frary, Mark <mark.frary@...>

Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

To: "usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com" <usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com>,

"usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com" <usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com>

Date: Tuesday, May 5, 2009, 10:17 AM

















Welcome aboard Jake. You need to investigate wednesday night sailing. Ask Joe.

Cheers

Mark

TX721



-----Original Message-----

From: "Jake Ormond" <txbluenoser@ yahoo.com>

To: "usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com" <usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com>

Sent: 22/04/09 18:39

Subject: Re: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs







Yeah, just bought it a week ago or two in the that area. Board is in god shape

except for a couple of cosmetic dings.



I don't know any of the Houston Area Prodigy sailers, but I'd like too.



Jake



--- On Wed, 4/22/09, joethewindsurfer <joethewindsurfer@

hotmail.com<mailto:joethewinds urfer%40hotmail. com>> wrote:



From: joethewindsurfer <joethewindsurfer@ hotmail.com<mailto:joethewinds

urfer%40hotmail. com>>

Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

To: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com<mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com>

Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 9:58 AM



Hey Jake!



Did you just buy this board last week in the Friendswood/ Pearland area? Do you

know any of the Houston area Prodigy sailors?



Joe the Windsurfer



--- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "txbluenoser" <txbluenoser@ ...> wrote:

>

> Hey thanks. The rope in mine is really really tight. I'll take it appart and

see if I can free it up a little.

>

> I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin. I'll be

looking for the black fin soon.

>

> The prodigy comp rig is hard to find. Have you ever seen it around used?

>

> Jake

>

> --- In usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> >

> >

> > It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.

> >

> >

> >

> > Here is a copy of the track repair.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Mast Track Repair

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...

> > <http://groups. google.com/ groups/unlock? _done=/group/ rec.windsurfing/

browse_

> > thread/thread/ 59a88d6b6acf5202 &msg=dd2b18c6c7e 9042f> @qis.net>

> >

> > Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400

> >

> > Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm

> >

> > Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks

> >

> >

> >

> > Hello David,

> > I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the

> >

> > mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the

> > device.

> > On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees

> >

> > apart. This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen

> > the line if necessary. The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that

> > also retains the pedal springs. You will need a narrow flat blade

> > screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.

> >

> > (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes

> > travel difficult. You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both

> > bushings. The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I

> > made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my

> > bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's

> > Vineyard. That was the only store I found that had the spares. I also

> > needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)

> >

> > When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in

> > place and that the springs do not pop out. Turn the tensioner 180 degrees

> > and see if that eases up the travel. If not, then you'll need to take it

> > all the way apart. Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap

> >

> > the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they

> > clear the aluminum on the inside of the track. This will allow you to slide

> >

> > both end pieces and the car forward. Don't lose theses pins- they may be

> > difficult to obtain in your area. I pull the pin out of the tensioner

> > because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.

> >

> > Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one

> > side and a smooth surface on the other. Rinse all parts in water and look

> > for wear. If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.

> > Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects

> >

> > the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked. I saw this happen to

> >

> > a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go

> > through the same steps I describe.

> >

> > You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two small Phillips

> >

> > head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there

> > may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.

> >

> > For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through

> > the track from the forward end. Secure the front pin with nail set and then

> >

> > depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal

> > assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole

> > forward of the pin hole (done from the underside). Secure in place with the

> >

> > other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.

> >

> > Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take

> > forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two

> > wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both

> > the springs and locking the tensioner.

> >

> > The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I

> > hope it is helpful. Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once

> > you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much

> > turmoil.

> >

> > I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon. Read you later,

> >

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > Cheers

> >

> >

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ yahoogroups. com]

On

> > Behalf Of Kevin Gratton

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Hi Jake,

> >

> > I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter

> > screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.

> >

> > DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?

> >

> > Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.

> > track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the

> > line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.

> >

> > Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.

> >

> > cheers

> >

> > Kevin Gratton

> >

> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> >

> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> >

> > 920-922-2550

> >

> > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> >

> > _____

> >

> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM

> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> >

> > Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked

> > like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.

> >

> > A couple of more questions if you don't mind:

> >

> > What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no

> > screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that

> > those are for the 2005 and newer boards.

> >

> > The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost

> > impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?

> >

> > Thanks

> >

> > Jake

> >

> > --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com,

> > "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:

> > >

> > > HI Jake,

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is

> > > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine

> > > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.

> > >

> > > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they

> > are

> > > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the

> > fiberglass.

> > >

> > >

> > > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off

> > > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less

> > sanding.

> > >

> > > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep

> > it

> > > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially

> > > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Good Luck

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but

> > > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white

> > > paint on both boards.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Kevin Gratton

> > >

> > > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center

> > >

> > > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935

> > >

> > > 920-922-2550

> > >

> > > www.WindPowerWindsu rfing.com

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > _____

> > >

> > > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com

> > [mailto:usa_ prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups.

com]

> > On

> > > Behalf Of txbluenoser

> > > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM

> > > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_ prodigy%40yahoog roups.com> yahoogroups. com

> > > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones

> > with

> > > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and

> > > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for

> > > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction

> > is.

> > > Any help is greatly appreciated.

> > >

> > > Jake

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>



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