Hey thanks. The rope in mine is really really tight. I'll take it appart and
see if I can free it up a little.

I've got both the black and white dagger board but only the white fin. I'll be
looking for the black fin soon.

The prodigy comp rig is hard to find. Have you ever seen it around used?

Jake

--- In usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Gratton" <keving@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jake,
>
>
>
> It appears the attachment didn't work as needed.
>
>
>
> Here is a copy of the track repair.
>
>
>
>
> Mast Track Repair
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "Marc Rosen" <duckb...
> <http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rec.windsurfing/browse_
> thread/thread/59a88d6b6acf5202&msg=dd2b18c6c7e9042f> @qis.net>
>
> Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:59:45 -0400
>
> Local: Sat, Jul 5 2003 7:59 pm
>
> Subject: Re: Mistral O.D./Equipe Mast Tracks
>
>
>
> Hello David,
> I'm sort of a cold shot racer- I usually finish last- but I have rebuilt the
>
> mast track on my '91 Equipe three times so here's how I disassembled the
> device.
> On the pedal end you will note a slotted button with two indents 180 degrees
>
> apart. This is an eccentric tensioner that allows you to tighten or loosen
> the line if necessary. The tensioner is locked by a shallow T piece that
> also retains the pedal springs. You will need a narrow flat blade
> screwdriver to raise this retainer for adjustment or complete disassembly.
>
> (By the way, I doubt if the line has tightened to the point that it makes
> travel difficult. You may have lodged some sand or worn down one or both
> bushings. The latter was my initial problem and my first repair attempt I
> made them concentric with a home-made lathe; the second time I replaced my
> bushings with some spare parts I picked up at Wind's Up on Martha's
> Vineyard. That was the only store I found that had the spares. I also
> needed to take the unit apart to get all the sand out of it)
>
> When you pry out the retainer make certain that the tensioner remains in
> place and that the springs do not pop out. Turn the tensioner 180 degrees
> and see if that eases up the travel. If not, then you'll need to take it
> all the way apart. Using a nail set or a flattened center punch, gently tap
>
> the retaining pins located at each end up from the underside until they
> clear the aluminum on the inside of the track. This will allow you to slide
>
> both end pieces and the car forward. Don't lose theses pins- they may be
> difficult to obtain in your area. I pull the pin out of the tensioner
> because I find it's easier to install it from the bottom during assembly.
>
> Note how the wheels are placed on your car - there are molded spokes on one
> side and a smooth surface on the other. Rinse all parts in water and look
> for wear. If none is noticed maybe you just have a sediment buildup.
> Another reason for difficult movement is if the nylon(?) hinge that connects
>
> the pedal to the paws (that grip the line) is cracked. I saw this happen to
>
> a friend's board and he replaced the entire pedal assembly but had to go
> through the same steps I describe.
>
> You may also note that the line is secured to the car by two small Phillips
>
> head screws that are driven through the melted ends of the line and there
> may be a bit of excess for lengthening but not much.
>
> For assembly feed the pedal, car & line, and the front pulley cap through
> the track from the forward end. Secure the front pin with nail set and then
>
> depress the tensioner through its pulley while you leverage the pedal
> assembly back with a long blade screwdriver through the rear most hole
> forward of the pin hole (done from the underside). Secure in place with the
>
> other stainless steel pin and now you're ready for the spring insertion.
>
> Place both springs in the holes and with the aid of a friend (it will take
> forever by yourself- I did it) depress both springs simultaneously with two
> wider screwdriver blades while you slide the T-piece back in, trapping both
> the springs and locking the tensioner.
>
> The entire job can be done in less time than it took me to type this but I
> hope it is helpful. Those tracks are difficult to take apart but once
> you've done it you can see that it will go together without too much
> turmoil.
>
> I hope you get it fixed and on the water soon. Read you later,
>
> Marc
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Kevin Gratton
>
> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center
>
> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935
>
> 920-922-2550
>
> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Kevin Gratton
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11 PM
> To: usa_prodigy@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Jake,
>
> I believe the 90mm lever screw is right. 2005 and newer take a shorter
> screw. For an 8.5 ish sail you should have around a 50cm fin.
>
> DO you have the black daggerboard? Or white?
>
> Does the adjustable track have a line in it? If so, it's the best Adj.
> track on the market, it just needs to be cleaned and lubed. Sometimes the
> line needs to be replaced. But it is a great track once you tune it up.
>
> Attached is a copy of how to repair the mast track by Marc.
>
> cheers
>
> Kevin Gratton
>
> Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center
>
> N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935
>
> 920-922-2550
>
> www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com
>
> _____
>
> From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On
> Behalf Of txbluenoser
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:49 PM
> To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [usa_prodigy] Re: Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs
>
> Hey guys thanks. The ABS plastic skin really threw me for a loop. It looked
> like the board was plastic. That definiatly makes life easier.
>
> A couple of more questions if you don't mind:
>
> What size fin screw do I need for the board. I've got the smaller fin but no
> screw for it? Does the 90mm lever work? Every site seems to indicate that
> those are for the 2005 and newer boards.
>
> The board came with both mast tracks. The adjustable mast track is almost
> impossible to move? How hard should they be to move?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jake
>
> --- In usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
> "Kevin Gratton" <keving@> wrote:
> >
> > HI Jake,
> >
> >
> >
> > It's an epoxy and fiberglass with a epa foam core. Then the outside is
> > wrapped with a thin sheet of (white) ABS plastic skin. You can use Marine
> > Tex, or an epoxy repair. West System is good.
> >
> > It's common for those boards to get dings along the hard rails and they
> are
> > usually easy repairs as long as there is not a crack through the
> fiberglass.
> >
> >
> > I put clear packaging tape around damaged area to keep repair material off
> > the board where it is not needed. (easier and faster cleanup, less
> sanding.
> >
> > After I put repair material on, I put clear tape over it as well to keep
> it
> > in place. It helps form the repair to the contour of the board, especially
> > on the rails. Again it saves on sanding and clean-up time.
> >
> >
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> >
> >
> > P.s. the newer blue and white Prodigys do not have an ABS plastic skin but
> > have an epoxy paint instead. Use the same repair materials and same white
> > paint on both boards.
> >
> >
> >
> > Kevin Gratton
> >
> > Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center
> >
> > N 7351 Winnebago Dr. Fond du Lac, Wi 54935
> >
> > 920-922-2550
> >
> > www.WindPowerWindsurfing.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of txbluenoser
> > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 9:15 PM
> > To: usa_prodigy@ <mailto:usa_prodigy%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [usa_prodigy] Mistral Prodigy Board Repairs
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hey all, I just bought a used Prodigy board. It's one of the older ones
> with
> > the red graphics on it. The board has some minor dings along the edges and
> > in one spot the outer surface is cut down to the core. I was looking for
> > information on how to repair the board or at least what the construction
> is.
> > Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Jake
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>