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#6134 From: "Conway, Julie E" <Julie.Conway@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:36 pm
Subject: RE: Re : OT Alex interview
Julie.Conway@...
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>>Macht nix, jetzt wissen wir wie hartnäckig Du sein kannst
grosses SMILE<<
Ditto whatever Doris said!!
 
Julie
Pasadena, CA

#6133 From: doris boyer <pablopolkaprisca@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: Re : OT Alex interview
pablopolkapr...
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Macht nix, jetzt wissen wir wie hartnäckig Du sein kannst
grosses SMILE

Doris
bellum gerant alii , tu felix Austria nube !

#6132 From: "Jennifer" <jenniferbecton@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 5:56 pm
Subject: Re: New DVDs!!!
dream_quest62
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I just received my new DVDs too. These are the first clicker DVDs
I've bought; I did many of the other exercises using the books. I'm
watching the Capture the Saddle DVD now and I love being able to see
exactly what to do. AND I think it's extremely beneficial to see
horses who haven't already perfected the exercise. So many other
clinicians use finished horses and I end up not knowing how to fix
the problems I might encounter.

You just need one of those fuzzy covers for your mic to keep the wind
noise down. LOL

Thanks!
Jennifer

--- In the_click_that_teaches@yahoogroups.com, "Conway, Julie E"
<Julie.Conway@...> wrote:
>
> Oh, Alex!!!!  You've done it again!!  I just finished watching the
> Capture the Saddle DVD and am so anxious to get out and work on it
with
> all of my horses!!

#6131 From: "Gary" <treefrog@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:30 am
Subject: foat training
treefrog@...
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Hi all!

Please let me share this bit of excitement. Mid August I purchased Lolita a very good natured young mare. I wasn’t told that she was pregnant, maybe the owner didn’t know. 3 weeks ago when I saw  a soccer ball size bump on her belly side move in and out I thought “oh oh…” He was born yesterday.

I have Alex’s book with the foal training section, so I shall dive into it.  He is here for the “big haul” as Alex puts it, can’t wait to get started (a bit soon I guess!?) any suggestions as to when, what age to start what, with clicker or without would be most welcome as this is my very first foal.

 

Thanks and regards

Muriel, south africa


#6130 From: "Villa" <villainfo@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:30 am
Subject: OT Alex interview
xenia17de
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Oh sorry people, I hit the wrong button.

Didn`t want to send this question to Alex  over the list.

 

smile and peace

Christiane

 


#6129 From: "Villa" <villainfo@...>
Date: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:14 am
Subject: Interview for German Clicker Magazin
xenia17de
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Hi dear Alex,

 

I really don`t want to nerve you. But I want to ask you about that interview.

Do you think you will get it done until the next issue ?

Deadline would be the 10th. December ?

 

If not that´s no problem, we just have to know to plan.

 

Another question have you already found a date for a seminar in Germany with Ruth and Linda ?

 

Best regards

Christiane

 

 

 

 

 


#6128 From: "Conway, Julie E" <Julie.Conway@...>
Date: Mon Nov 10, 2008 5:55 pm
Subject: RE: re: New DVDs!!!
Julie.Conway@...
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Oh, Alex!!!!  You've done it again!!  I just finished watching the Capture the Saddle DVD and am so anxious to get out and work on it with all of my horses!!  I love the way the ground work translates easily into the mounting block lesson.  And then the beginnings of the single rein riding is fabulously demonstrated.  Thank you to everyone that was on the DVD.  Can I just say that EVERY one of the horses was magnificent (clicker trained horses have that look about them!).  Oliver just looks completely stunning and has changed dramatically.  Good job to everyone!
 
Best,
Julie
Pasadena, CA
 

#6127 From: "Katie Bartlett" <katie.bartlett@...>
Date: Sun Nov 9, 2008 2:32 am
Subject: Groton clinic report: October 2008
kabart315
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Hi everyone,

I'm a bit late, but I did want to post a message about the last Groton
clinic.  We had a wonderful weekend and I wanted to share a few highlights.
I have not written a long report because Charlotte has kindly agreed to let
me post her clinic notes.   I think it's nice to hear from different people
and have just added a few details from my own notes.

The complete clinic report is on my web site and includes the following post
and Charlotte's notes.

Groton Clinic Report: October 2008

The last Groton clinic for the year was held on a beautiful October weekend.
In addition to the regular group. we were lucky to have Hilary and Charlotte
visiting from the UK and they added some new perspective and enthusiasm to
the group.  Charlotte wrote up some wonderful notes for this clinic, so I am
going to share them instead of a regular clinic report, but I do want to
include a few tidbits from my perspective.

     Every clinic seems to end up with a focus and at this one we spent a lot
of time on micro-riding, HSS (hip, shoulder, shoulder) and the power of
resets.   We started off with some micro-riding so that everyone had a
chance to experience it. Some of the attendees had heard about micro-riding,
but not actually gotten a chance to do it with a partner.   Saturday morning
we reviewed the grounding circuit and got the new people up to speed.  Those
people familiar with micro-riding were experimenting the rest of the
circuits and then looking at the interaction between the rider and the
monitor and comparing this to the rider/horse relationship. There were some
nice images about how information is passed back and forth initially as big
requests and responses and how, over time, these become finer and more
detailed and there is a steady flow of information instead of packets of
information separated by gaps.

     Over the course of the weekend, the micro-riding brought up some
interesting points. When we added the crown and diaphragm circuits, Alex
talked about how you should be able to move through quickly enough that you
don't belabor each step. The idea is to feel the energy flow.  Once you are
past the initial learning stages, going too slow can allow the energy to get
blocked and you don't build the connectedness that you want.  The grounding
circuit makes the rider feel more connected to the ground and provides a
firm foundation so that when the rider goes to the crown and diaphragm
circuit, the rider can stretch up and add energy without becoming unbalanced
or crooked.  If you linger too long on the grounding circuit, you don't feel
how you can channel the energy into other places.

        It turned out that working through the circuits at the right speed
was not always so easy.  Sometimes the monitor got ahead and sometimes the
rider got ahead. Doesn't this sound like riding?  We found that practicing
saying the names of each step in the chain led to a better understanding of
how to ride different horses.  One group was paying attention to how the
words were spoken and this led to the idea of "consonant" vs "vowel" horses
(as determined by whether you emphasize the consonant or vowel sound in a
word.)  Consonant horses are those where you move along quickly to keep the
energy going. Vowel horses are those where you go a little more slowly and
draw the words out (emphasizing the vowels) to allow the horse to relax and
let energy flow gently instead of rushing. 

       As people got better at it, they did some experimenting.  One group
formed a chain which started with one person in the middle who was monitored
by two people, who were in turn monitored by another person.  This meant
there were 4 people connected to a central person and when she activated the
circuits, it radiated out to the people on the ends.   This had started when
the group was exploring whether or not people were using both sides of their
bodies when they went through a circuit. As riders, we need to be able to
use one side independently, but we also need to be symmetrical and able to
use both sides equally.  On a straight line, the horse needs us to be
symmetrical so he can line up underneath us. On a circle or in lateral work,
we may need to do one thing with one side of our body and something else
with the other.   Looking at how people used each side of their body also
helped identify if someone was crooked or had a tendency to overuse one
side.

     There were other variations and discoveries made with micro-riding over
the weekend.   I found that micro-riding required the rider to know a lot
about tone and release. When was it necessary to add tone to access a body
part? When was it necessary to release to access a body part?  Working on
the ground in small groups allowed people to learn things about their own
bodies and what they needed to do to access the circuits. Getting feedback
from a monitor was invaluable as the monitors could feel really tiny
changes. I think this gave people confidence to try this when riding, and to
believe that the horses would be able to feel these tiny changes.  Taking
micro-riding to the horses is the next step and the work on the ground gives
people the confidence to experiment with the horses.

     If you are experimenting with this and don't have a helper, you can
still work on micro-riding on your own.  Going through the circuits and
feeling the changes in your own body will get you started. Then when you
ride, you can do the same thing and see how the horse responds.  If I am
playing with something new, I will click the horse for any change the horse
makes in response to my micro-riding.  I am aware that horses have to learn
to tune out a certain amount of what we do when we ride. Even with good
riders, there is a certain amount of "noise" and if the horse paid attention
to every tiny nuance, he would be overloaded with information, so each horse
does some selective listening.  When I try something new, my first job is to
indicate to the horse that this is a deliberate action on my part and I want
him to pay attention to it. Then once he is responding, I can start to
evaluate more carefully what kind of responses I want to reinforce.
Sometimes the micro-riding produces immediate and obvious changes and other
times, it takes me a while to figure out how to connect that piece to the
horse.

     We didn't spend all the time on micro-riding. We worked a lot on using
resets and HSS (Hip shoulder shoulder) to improve our horse's balance.  The
horses at this clinic included some green horses just learning lateral
flexions as well as some more advanced horses. With the green horses, Alex
worked on getting the horses soft but going forward. This can be hard as
many horses want to slow down when the rider asks for something with the
reins.   Even with the advanced horses,  Alex spent time on getting the
horses to move with energy both forward and backward and to stay connected
through the transitions.  In addition, Alex did some work on standing
flexions and we all get to see Lucky's fun liberty work and what Kate had
been working on.  She has Lucky putting together some beautiful patterns
with changes from shoulder-in to haunches-in and his canter in-hand is
getting better and better.

     We spent time on Monday morning walking the HSS pattern. It is always
worth walking the pattern if you get confused.  Alex stressed the importance
of allowing some lateral component in the exercise when the horse first
learns to give its hip.  This will help prevent stalling out and leads to
what she calls the "Gene Kelly glide" where the horse flows back by stepping
under with the inside shoulder and rocking back. I really need to watch that
movie so I have a better visual for what she is talking about!  In addition,
she pointed out the importance of rocking the horse back on to a substantial
outside hind leg (through HSS) so the horse can step forward with energy
into the correct bend.  These were just more little pieces of the puzzle on
how to get a good HSS.  HSS is the basis for a reset so it is worth spending
time on it. A reset is what allows you to redirect and rebalance a horse
when they get quick or unorganized and it is a real key to understanding
Alex's methods for developing horses with great balance.

     Thanks to the work at Alex's September clinic at my farm, Rosie's walk
has improved tremendously and Alex had me work on asking her to step back
and come forward with energy. When she got sticky about the backing, we
focused on improving the backing. Alex had me back and ask her to turn while
backing, as if backing around a corner or on an arc.  Rosie was really sure
that this was not possible, but we she did get a few good steps where she
changed orientation while backing and we are continuing to work on it.

     As a side bonus, we had a photographer come visit on Saturday.  Her name
is Vanessa Wright and she was putting together a show called The Literary
Horse.  Her show combines pictures of horses with quotes from all kinds of
literature. She wanted to feature Alex as one of the significant horse
people of our time.   Her show opened in November and is traveling across
the country.  For more information, you can go to www.theliteraryhorse.com.

    If you have any questions about the clinic, let me know. I have been
brief because Charlotte has given me permission to share her notes with
everyone. So for this clinic report, we have a "guest speaker," which is
always fun because different people write down different things and I think
it's nice to have a fresh perspective.  Charlotte lives in the UK and posts
regularly on the clickryder and click_that_teaches_lists. She has studied
with Alex on Alex's trips to England and came to the US to attend clinics in
both Groton and Toutle. She is owned by Tig and Loly and they are all
enjoying clicker training.

....to read Charlotte's notes, you can find them in the archives here or
read them on my site.

Thanks,

Katie


Elverson, Pa.
www.equineclickertraining.com

#6126 From: lihaug@...
Date: Sat Nov 8, 2008 8:42 am
Subject: Re: re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
yazdoodle
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there is already a campaign on one of my dog lists to send Barack clicker material as well as to have one of hte well known clicker trainers in his area offer servcies to help him with the new addition.
 
Lore




#6125 From: Cynthia Kiser <cnk@...>
Date: Sat Nov 8, 2008 6:47 am
Subject: Drummond clinic at McPhail
computerese2001
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Anyone in Michigan going to the Bettina Drummond clinic at the McPhail
Equine Performance Center?

http://cvm.msu.edu/about-the-college/news-events/events/bettina-drummond-clinic-\
at-the-mcphail-equine-performance-center

--
Cynthia N. Kiser
cnk@...

#6124 From: "plumgood@..." <plumgood@...>
Date: Sat Nov 8, 2008 5:33 am
Subject: RE: Re: re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
romulusfjord
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I think those girls want a puppy, which is
understandable.  Maybe they need to be sent a clicker
training book.  Karen Pryor for Michelle and
Barack...and a child's clicker book for the
kids....or maybe even the book about Panda!

Gail

#6123 From: "Melissa Lapham" <mjmvet@...>
Date: Sat Nov 8, 2008 3:29 am
Subject: Bush's not so happy dog
mjmvet
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One the subject of presidential dogs, has anyone seen the youtube video of Bush's dog (a black scottie) biting a reporter? I tried to post a reply that viewers should visit doggonesafe.com as the dog was displaying obvious 'don't come near me' body language, but it wouldn't post. Not sure why. I sure hope Obama chooses wisely when he picks a trainer. There are some obvious bad choices I won't mention that I hope he avoids like the plague...
melissa and ruby

#6122 From: Yvonne Lehey <yvonne@...>
Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 11:29 pm
Subject: Re: re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
ylehey
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On Friday,  7 November 2008 at  9:59:41 -0500, Alexandra Kurland wrote:

Hi Alex,

> Wouldn't it be wonderful if the Obama's dog came from this shelter
> program?  It would fit so well with everything that he represents:
> change, hope, the possibility that you can make a difference.  And it
> would mean that clicker training would be an integral part of his
> dog's basic training.

Why don't you send them an email and suggest it? Sounds like a good
idea to me.

> Now that the election is over, we need to begin a new campaign of our
> own to get clicker training into the White House.

... and from there into everyday's politics? What a perspective!!!

Kind regards
Yvonne

**************************************************************
Be kind to your breasts - buy a gaited horse! (Chris Yeardley)
**************************************************************

Yvonne Lehey
Cavall'Art
47 Kleins Road
Dereel Vic 3352
Australia

phone +61-3--53 46 13 70
mobile 0417 397 062
email: yvonne@...
my webpage: http://www.lemis.com/yvonne/

#6121 From: Kathy Hollen <tothz@...>
Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 9:12 pm
Subject: Re: Re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
khhollen
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On Nov 7, 2008, at 3:09 PM, Laurel Gordon wrote:

> add in a clicker trained rescue
>  puppy and that's a real dream for the animals of the world too

I just heard that the Obamas are hoping to find a shelter dog. Don't
know if it'll be clicker trained, but at least it's a shelter dog!
Think how cute those little girls are going to be with their new dog
when they're already beyond adorable!

Kathy & Jodie

#6120 From: Kim Cassidy <kim@...>
Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 8:14 pm
Subject: Re: {Disarmed} Re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
cuhailan
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Barak just said in his first speech that they have two criteria for their dog acquisition.

  1. One of his daughters is allergic so it has to be hypo-allergenic
  2. The dog has to come from a shelter

He than said, “The problem is most shelter dogs are mutts like me, so not sure what we are going to do.”

Thanks Laurel, I’m sure not all are happy but I for one am THRILLED to say BuhBye to the Bush Regime and Welcome Welcome to a new hope.

A few friends and I decided today that we are going to go to DC to witness history, January 20th’s inauguration of Barak Obama... HOLLLLAAAA

I am so proud that I got to be a part of history :)

Regards,

Kim Cassidy
www.clickandtrim.com

“If you come to a fork in the road, take it.”  Yogi Berra


#6119 From: Laurel Gordon <laurelgordon@...>
Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 8:09 pm
Subject: Re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
laurelandjedda
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Dear Alex,

           I wanted to congratulate you statesiders on Barack Obama
getting in (how wonderful!) but was afraid to upset anyone voting the
other way ;-) . But just to say, that spirit of hope is stretching all
the way to the far corners of the world, add in a clicker trained rescue
puppy and that's a real dream for the animals of the world too,

Cheers,
Laurel,
Tasmania.

#6118 From: Alexandra Kurland <kurlanda@...>
Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 2:59 pm
Subject: re: The Obamas need a clicker-trained dog
alexandrakur...
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The elections are over and not only is there going to be a new family living in the White House, there is going to be a new dog.  On Tuesday night during his acceptance speech Obama told his girls that they had earned the puppy that would be moving with them into the White House.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if that dog were clicker trained?  Clicker training fits so well with his message of hope.  It focuses on the changes we want to see happening, not all the negative pull downs that keep people stuck.  I would think that the Obamas would appreciate the positive life skills clicker training teaches young handlers.  I can see that appealing very much to both Barack and Michelle Obama.  Their girls wouldn't just be taking on the responsibility of getting the dog out for walks.  They would be learning positive life skills.

So where should this clicker-trained dog come from? I know just the place: SOS Pen Pals, a nationally recognized training and rehabilitation program run in partnership with the Virginia Department of Corrections. In this program shelter dogs are fostered by prison inmates.  The dogs learn basic social and training skills that help them to be placed successfully in new homes.  And the inmates learn professional dog-training techniques that give them useful job skills.  The director of training for this program is Virginia Broitman.  Virginia is an outstanding clicker trainer. She's the co-producer of the How of Bow Wow award winning video series, a member of the Clicker Expo Faculty, and an adviser to the Karen Pryor Academy for Dog Trainers.  So the inmate trainers aren't just learning standard-issue dog training.  They are learning clicker training and the positive life skills that are so much a part of it.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if the Obama's dog came from this shelter program?  It would fit so well with everything that he represents: change, hope, the possibility that you can make a difference.  And it would mean that clicker training would be an integral part of his dog's basic training. 

Now that the election is over, we need to begin a new campaign of our own to get clicker training into the White House.

Alexandra Kurland
theclickercenter.com

#6117 From: Amanda <ccpearl@...>
Date: Thu Nov 6, 2008 4:59 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
adsc3
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**Firstly, holding the side of his headcollar, as you were treating. What you weren't doing, was holding his head still whilst you were treaing, more your hand held in a tai chis style (no force!)  an allowed the hed to move ( poss redirecting energy if it came towards you). The hand with the treat at this stage was bent up in a fist towards ones own body, and then the treat was presented when there was a moment of relaxation on the head carriage (if you began to present the treat and his head got "busy" again, you folded your arm up to your body and waited again for that moment of relaxation.**
 
Thanks Hilary :-).
 
This sounds a bit like what worked for Brody.  Though holding his head collar didn't work for him.  He would still grab for the treat. 
 
What I did was along the lines of 'you can't make me eat that' (which is a game I taught him during the summer).  So i used the food delivery technique you described and if he grabbed then I folded my arm back up.  I gradually shaped that so that the grabiness got less and less and then I shaped him keeping his mouth shut and only using his lips and tongue to get the treats.
 
If I hold the treats up higher then he tends to get the side of my hand, or he knocks all the treats out of my hand.  I really needed to teach him good targeting.  He can target my hand really well and his aim is great.....just not when I have treats in said hand !
 
I'll keep these in mind should he revert back :-)....hopefully I have it under control now !!
 
A

#6116 From: Hilary Cross <hilary@...>
Date: Thu Nov 6, 2008 4:46 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
topuskouk
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Amanda wrote
 
His behaviours were great, but as soon as he heard the click, he was like a piranha looking for the treat.  Aim.....well, there was none, he just rooted with his mouth open until he found the treats.  He came at my hand with his mouth gaping and at high speed which resulted in half the nuts ending up on the ground.  I know he is not going to bite me, but that would be unnerving for most folks. 
 
And to top it all off, it was freezing cold (below zero) and due to his lack of aim and grabbing, I had slobber all over the cuff of my jacket (he drips saliva from his mouth when we train).  It was too cold to take my jacket off and so I had to live with this cold wet rag on my wrist until I had finished all my chores.  
 
I stood back and thought, 'when did you get so rude ?', then I quickly checked myself and started to more appropriately ask, 'when did I let this get so out of hand?'. 
 
So we had a lesson in treat manners.  And boy-oh-boy, it was a tough one.  he got it, but very quickly and easily forgot himself and got grabby.  His rate of reinforcement was so low that it really worried me about what I was actually teaching him.  I could see he was frustrated, but I couldn't use targeting to get the rate up as he gets grabby with the target as well, so I would be reinforcing the mouthiness.
 
I resigned myself to the fact that we would have to visit this painful lesson every day until I had it back to a level where he was less agitated about getting treats....and I was DRY !
 
Today, I brought him out and did he ever show me what homework he had done over night.  I was bowled over !!  He was soft and gentle with taking the treats, and I could really see him consciously being SO careful.  Only on a few occasions did he forget himself.  I had a dry cuff today and, even better, his rate of reinforcement was really high :-)""








 This sounds quite like one of the ponies that was at the Magic Centre -he tended to use his teeth to get the treats !!!. there were 2 elements that we worked on. Firstly, holding the side of his headcollar, as you were treating. What you weren't doing, was holding his head still whilst you were treaing, more your hand held in a tai chis style (no force!)  an allowed the hed to move ( poss redirecting energy if it came towards you). The hand with the treat at this stage was bent up in a fist towards ones own body, and then the treat was presented when there was a moment of relaxation on the head carriage (if you began to present the treat and his head got "busy" again, you folded your arm up to your body and waited again for that moment of relaxation.






The other part of the equation was presenting the treat from above, literally sliding down his nose to present the treat which prevented him grabbing down to get it. This worked really well, and Alex also had various people treat him  - though we were all doing the same thing, we were ll doing it very differently (!) which was also a good learning curve for the pony.



Cheers Hilary











#6115 From: Amanda <ccpearl@...>
Date: Thu Nov 6, 2008 1:43 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
adsc3
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**We're going back to walk/halt/head down for a little bit**
 
Re-visiting previous behaviours is not really going back.  When you spend a little time 'revising' and then move on to the newer things, you will be astounded at the new quality of behaviours (new and old behaviours) that pop out.
 
Revision of the foundations is one of the most valuable things you can do.
 
I am having to do that with my little gelding.  I was working on some in-hand things as we walked to the field yesterday.  I realised that we had been spending too much time working in the presence of Classic and it had made some things a little sloppy.
 
....or should I say 'slobbery' !!  Brody is such an enthusiastic pony.  But he is a little TOO enthusiastic and I need to teach him how to control that enthusiasm a little better.  These always end up being such hard lessons for him, and he amazes me with how he gets through them AND then goes and does his homework.
 
His behaviours were great, but as soon as he heard the click, he was like a piranha looking for the treat.  Aim.....well, there was none, he just rooted with his mouth open until he found the treats.  He came at my hand with his mouth gaping and at high speed which resulted in half the nuts ending up on the ground.  I know he is not going to bite me, but that would be unnerving for most folks. 
 
And to top it all off, it was freezing cold (below zero) and due to his lack of aim and grabbing, I had slobber all over the cuff of my jacket (he drips saliva from his mouth when we train).  It was too cold to take my jacket off and so I had to live with this cold wet rag on my wrist until I had finished all my chores. 
 
I stood back and thought, 'when did you get so rude ?', then I quickly checked myself and started to more appropriately ask, 'when did I let this get so out of hand?'. 
 
So we had a lesson in treat manners.  And boy-oh-boy, it was a tough one.  he got it, but very quickly and easily forgot himself and got grabby.  His rate of reinforcement was so low that it really worried me about what I was actually teaching him.  I could see he was frustrated, but I couldn't use targeting to get the rate up as he gets grabby with the target as well, so I would be reinforcing the mouthiness.
 
I resigned myself to the fact that we would have to visit this painful lesson every day until I had it back to a level where he was less agitated about getting treats....and I was DRY !
 
Today, I brought him out and did he ever show me what homework he had done over night.  I was bowled over !!  He was soft and gentle with taking the treats, and I could really see him consciously being SO careful.  Only on a few occasions did he forget himself.  I had a dry cuff today and, even better, his rate of reinforcement was really high :-)
 
I need to to do this lesson every day for a while now.  Today he had to really think about being soft and gentle, I need it to be second nature (classically conditioned).
 
I really need to focus more on re-visiting foundations more often.  It really does yield some amazing results just by going back and reminding both handler and horse of the foundations up on which everything else is based.
 
I can't wait to work with Brody tomorrow :-)

#6114 From: "redahlman" <redahlman@...>
Date: Thu Nov 6, 2008 1:14 pm
Subject: Re: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
redahlman
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Many thanks to Katie, Amanda and Ulrika for their suggestions about
making things relaxing.  I think we're on the right track - I just
need to slow down a little bit with introducing new things.  We're
going back to walk/halt/head down for a little bit, and then we'll try
making trotting part of a predictable pattern, with cones for markers,
to begin with.

It also looks like my saddle, which I just had fitted 3 months ago or
so, is not fitting her again - that may be making a big difference
too.  The saddle fitter is coming back in a few weeks, so I'll
probably stick with ground work or a bareback pad until then.

Thanks again!
Becky

#6113 From: "Sola Wolff" <sterrenew@...>
Date: Tue Nov 4, 2008 8:44 am
Subject: Re: Ears forward
sterrenew
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I was working on this today with a horse (Rem) who is very new to
clicker training.  During the first three sessions with him his ears
were often forward.  Today there was a grumpy horse stalled next to
him and seemed to cause Rem to have his ears back more often.  It
seemed like a good time to work on Ears Forward/Happy Faces.

I worked on duration of Grown Ups by clicking when his ears went
forward.  There was a point that he stared at with his ears forward
and he got clicked for that a few times, until it became a more
frequent behavior.  I didn't want to teach him to stare off in the
distance, I want him to look at me with his ears forward.  So I got in
his line of sight, and clicked him for ears forward.  Then I moved a
little bit and re-oriented his body toward me, clicked him for
pointing his head toward me, then added ears forward as a criterion.

I kept moving a little bit and got a very happy looking horse who was
very focused on me, but not mugging, in relatively short order.  The
layering of criteria built great duration and steadiness in his Grown
Ups lesson as well as a good start to Ears Forward.

I noticed that I was more relaxed and having more fun with Rem when
his ears were forward than when he seemed on the edge of grouchy.

Sola Wolff
Seattle, WA

#6112 From: "percie001" <bsadler@...>
Date: Mon Nov 3, 2008 11:26 pm
Subject: Re: clinic updates
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Hi All,

I just wanted to add my thanks as well for sharing all the notes from
the clinic.  It is greatly appreciated and all printed out! I also
wanted to add my thanks to Alex with the others for the great DVD's.
After traveling I came home to find them waiting for me as I got smart
and took my laptop and ordered them while away. :-) I was fortunate
enough to attend a clinic in August and got to see first hand some
wonderful SR mechanics and it was really awesome to see so many good
riders using it and for me to get a good base to come home and try
myself.  The DVD's have now added to that and given me even more
important detail to the good mechanics and body rotations and how it
all works together.  I have made my own Helen horse on a stool set up
with a saddle on a pillow and on top of several boxes of laminate
flooring for some height.  It will be ages before I get around to
laying that floor anyways, might as well put it to some good use over
the winter ;-) My horses will be very thankful I'm sure to have Helen
take the brunt of my learnings.

Barb, Percie, Indy and Tara
ON Canada

--- In the_click_that_teaches@yahoogroups.com, "Melissa Lapham"
<mjmvet@...> wrote:
>
> Holy cow! Thanks for including all your notes. Some of it I'm not yet
> familiar with (the micro riding mostly) but the rest I can add to
what I
> already know. Thanks for taking the time!
> Melissa and Ruby
>

#6111 From: "Melissa Lapham" <mjmvet@...>
Date: Mon Nov 3, 2008 2:14 am
Subject: clinic updates
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Holy cow! Thanks for including all your notes. Some of it I'm not yet familiar with (the micro riding mostly) but the rest I can add to what I already know. Thanks for taking the time!
Melissa and Ruby

#6110 From: Hilary Cross <hilary@...>
Date: Sun Nov 2, 2008 10:49 pm
Subject: Re: Clinic Notes - Groton & Toutle
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Thanks Charlotte -it has reminded me of a lot of things.

I find it so interesting with clinics. When Alex went round the table at he beginning at one of the cliinic I remember saying I wanted to see further on down the line -  lots of horses showed me that, though my biggest thanks goes to Caesar ( and his owner Elaine). He was the horse I borrowed for the first clinic , who taught me, as only a horse can!


And yet, the 2 biggest thing =s I have taken home to my horses are the inhand lateral flexions  -  particularly relevant for my older horse, who tends to bend his neck too much, and twist at the poll, rather than release ( he has also had all my learning mistakes on him, poor lad)

The other really important point was the food delivery. Slowly (ta chi style) holding the halter,  and feeding when the horses head is relaxed has really helped my so keen 3 year old . If she is not relaxed , the foos is withheld but by making a fist up to your body, so it is not like teasing with it. She also tends to like licking me ( I obviously taste good!!) , and this has meant that I can easily move her head away by the halter ( I have tried ignoring it , but I think I am too tasty!!) in a hold that she is comfortable, and accustomed with.

Lots to think and do for the winter  !!

Hilary





#6109 From: Alexandra Kurland <kurlanda@...>
Date: Sun Nov 2, 2008 9:52 pm
Subject: re: New DVDs!!!
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Hi Everyone,

As usual I'll begin with an apology for my long absence from this list.  I've been in non-stop travel mode since early September.  Now that the holiday season is approaching the clinic season is winding down.  I finally have some time to catch up with the list.

As many of you know by now, I have three new DVDs out.  I finished the last of them about two weeks ago, just in time for the Toutle WA clinic.   I didn't make a formal announcement at that time because they weren't all up yet on my web site.  But they are now listed.  If you go to the video section in the bookstore and scroll down through to the end you'll find them:


If you've been wanting more visual references for single-rein riding, these lessons are for you.  

Capture the Saddle: The Mounting Block Lesson
In the "Overcoming Fear and the Power of Cues" DVD I ended jwith a bit of a cliff hanger.  Nick was about to get on Muska, the Icey who had been afraid of saddles.  He was going to get on from the ground, but I interrupted him and had him use the mounting block instead.  Mounting blocks are so much better for a horses' back and for saddles.  They also introduce a great training opportunity: will your horse line himself up to a mounting block and stand while you get on, or do you need the proverbial three men and a boy hanging onto him to keep him still?

The answer for Muska was she wasn't familiar with mounting blocks, and she shied away when Nick led her up to one.  

"Oh good," you can hear me saying in the background.  "We get to have the mounting block lesson."

There wasn't time on that DVD to show you what I meant by that.  I'd already jammed it full to overflowing with other things, so the mounting block lesson had to wait.  

Now you may be wondering why you need an entire DVD just to show you how to get on.  After all most of you on this list are active riders.  You know how to get on a horse.  If I didn't see this as such a stumbling block for so many horses I might have passed over it with just a quick "and then you get on" sort of mention.  But in clinic after clinic, I get people who want to ride only to have the horse saying "No, I'm not ready," to them. The mounting block is the place where horses get to voice this clearly by whether or not they line themselves up and stand well for mounting.  

I want a solid "yes" from my horse before I get on.  I want my horse inviting me on.  And I want to know that once I'm up there, if something goes wrong, if the proverbial herd of emus comes charging up the driveway, I'll be able to slide down the inside rein, connect directly to my horse's hip, and keep things safe for both of us.  

So for me the "Capture the Saddle" lesson is first and foremost a final safety check before I get on.  It tells me if I have indeed done my homework so my horse understands the reins and is comfortable responding to them.  

Why "Capture the Saddle"?
There are many ways you can teach a horse to line up next to a mounting block, especially if you are a clicker trainer.  You can use targeting. You can use mats. You can free shape it.  These are all great fun to do.  If you have a young horse who isn't old enough to be ridden, it's tempting to teach him about mounting blocks in this way.  By the time you start riding, he'll be a super star when it comes to the mounting block.  He'll come right over and line himself up.  You'll climb on and ride off into what you hope will be the proverbial sunset.  But if he isn't familiar with the feel of the reins, you could equally well be riding off into an unwelcome surprise.   For that reason, I generally prefer to wait until he is in a bridle, or at least a halter and a lead, to teach a young horse about mounting blocks.  I want him to understand and be comfortable with the connection to the reins.  

In the ground work we've been doing - all the basic leading, the duct tape lessons, the "why would you leave me?" into three-flip-three lateral work, etc., he's been learning how to relate to pressure on the lead.  He's learned to soften and give, to yield his hips and to rebalance into a lateral flexion.  The Capture the Saddle lesson makes use of these skills and confirms that the horse really does respond to the rein.  Under saddle if the rider suddenly slides down the inside rein, the horse isn't going to be surprised by the feel and pull even harder or erupt into a bucking fit.  Instead, he'll soften his nose to the side and step under with his inside hind leg, connecting his footfalls and his balance to the rider's hands and seat.

Fancy: Ground Work Preparation
The Capture the Saddle lesson is a great example of everything is everything else.  The DVD begins with a ground work lesson.  The horse I focus on, Fancy, is an older Tennessee walker who has had a long history of horrendous saddle fit.  Her owner hadn't realized at first that the saddle was the cause of her horse's riding issues.  It wasn't until it started leaving sores that she understood just how bad the problem was.  Unfortunately, at that point she also had a horse she was afraid of.  Fancy was a sweetheart, but she had definitely turned into a faster-go-faster horse trying to get out from under a poorly fitting saddle. 

The night before the lesson I show on the DVD I watched Fancy being ridden while we tried to find a saddle that would fit.  It was only her good nature and her owner's good balance that kept the ride together.  Fancy always looked just a hair's breadth away from turning into a frightened runaway.

We didn't find a saddle that fit, so Shirley didn't ride her during the clinic.  But I wanted to give her the skills she'd need to transform the picture I'd seen the night before into something less hair raising to watch.  One of the key skills Shirley was missing was the ability to connect to Fancy's hips so she could interrupt her accelerating speed without creating more anxiety.

One of the things I know, especially when you have a long history with a horse where bad things have happened, is it's easy for the rider to shut down at key moments and to forget the very skills she needs to stay safe.  It's all well and good to understand intellectually what you need to do, but unless you have practiced those skills so many times that they have become automatic, they won't be there for you in an emergency.

I knew from watching Fancy that Shirley couldn't wait to "learn on the job". She needed to have the skills in place before she got on because she'd need them the instant that her foot was in the saddle.  It wouldn't matter how absolutely perfectly a new saddle was fitting, they both had a lot of history, a lot of conditioned responses to overcome.

So I gave Shirley a lesson she could practice on the ground which would set her up for dealing with both her fear and Fancy's.  This is the lesson that begins the "Capture the Saddle" DVD.  I set out the by now very familiar why-would-you-leave-me circle of cones.  Only this time instead of walking around the outside of the circle, I had Shirley walk across the center of the circle.  She was to pick out a cone on the far side and to ask Fancy to yield her hips.  This would pivot Fancy  around the cone so she ended up facing back towards the center of the circle.  Shirley was then to ask Fancy to back up a couple of steps, so essentially she was doing the most basic form of hip-shoulder-shoulder.

Once Fancy backed up, I had Shirley change sides, and ask Fancy to back up again.  I did not want the change of sides to be the cue to go forward, so remembering these steps of backing was an important part of the process.

When she was ready, Shirley picked out another cone on the far side of the circle and walked off  with Fancy on a why-would-you-leave-me loose lead to repeat the pattern around the next cone.

I've described this as one uninterrupted flow of steps. That's the result we are after, but to get there we had to break the sequence down into a series of little units.  Each major weight shift was marked with a click and a treat.  

In other words, when Shirley approached the cone and asked Fancy to yield her hips, it was click and treat. 

When she asked her to back, it was click and treat.

And while she was giving Fancy her treat, she was changing sides so she could ask Fancy to back again - click and treat.

I wanted her to become very familiar with the mechanical skills involved in these weight shifts because we were going to be using them again, first at the mounting block, and then later under saddle to regulate leg speed.  This lesson would work both to slow a horse like Fancy down, and on a non-foot-moving horse to request movement.

Merlin: Capture the Saddle
Fancy's lesson was part one of the DVD.  Part Two was the actual "Capture the Saddle" mounting block lesson. For this I used Merlin, a young haflinger.  His owner, Cindy, had unfortunately not been feeling well.  She missed most of the first part of the clinic where we were focusing on ground work, so Merlin wasn't quite as polished as I would have wanted him to be before we moved on to riding. But that actually turned out to be a good thing. It meant he looked a lot like some of the horses people own who will be using these DVDs.  It's all well and good to watch a horse that is fully tuned into his handler line himself up almost effortlessly to the mounting block, but it may not help much with your own situation.  It's always wonderful when your horse is so much better than the horses on the DVDs!  That's my goal - that by watching these lessons, you'll have your horse so beautifully prepared for the next step that it will flow together effortlessly.  The people on the DVDs have to jump in at the deep end without the visual references already in place.  So hopefully what they show with their horses will help everyone else using the DVDs to be that much better!

When we brought Merlin up to the mounting block he behaved like many young horses.  He wasn't afraid of it.  He just didn't know he was supposed to line himself up next to it.  So he walked up perfectly well with Cindy, but then he swung out wide.  

Perfect.  Merlin showed beautifully what the "Capture the Saddle" lesson will look like for many of you.  In this lesson the mounting block becomes the target for the rider.  She doesn't try to reposition the mounting block as the horse sidles away.  Instead she stands on the mounting block and repositions the horse.  The skills she uses are the same skills Shirley was just practicing in her lesson. Everything is indeed everything else.

When Merlin overshot the mounting block, Cindy asked him to swing his hips around and then to back up.  The only difference between the two lessons was now there was no walking between cones.  It was as though two cones were set one on either end of the mounting block and Cindy was standing in the middle turning Merlin from cone to cone.  In between, she was letting go of the reins entirely so she could reach up and "capture the saddle". In other words she was teaching him a form of targeting.  He was learning to bring the saddle to her hands.  This turns the lesson into a fun game without losing the underlying safety feature of making sure Merlin was connected to the reins.

The DVD shows me working with Merlin for a bit, and then Cindy took over.  He caught on quite fast to the lesson and she was able to get on.  I could have ended the DVD there, but I knew it might be a while before I got the next lesson finished.  I didn't want to be saying to people - "okay, now you're on - just don't go anywhere until I can get back to you."

Single-Rein Riding: The Cone Circle Exercise
So Part three of the DVD takes you through the beginnings of single-rein riding.  I again use the cone circle and a variation on the theme of Fancy's lesson.  I asked Cindy to ride across the circle and to turn around a cone she's picked out.  Instead of stopping and backing up,  however, I had her continue on across the circle to another cone.

Sound easy? It might be if you could use both reins to hold him onto a straight line.  That would be like steering the horse between the banks of a river.  The banks in this analogy are formed by your hands and legs.  That's standard riding. But in this lesson I take away the outer bank, meaning the active outside rein.  I do this to reveal the balance issues that have been band-aided or "swept under the carpet" by riding prematurely on two independent reins.  

In Merlin's case what the exercise revealed was a very wiggly horse.  He wiggled left, right, into the camera, out of the circle.  It was a wonderfully perfect mess!  I say it in this way because Cindy's ride was a perfect illustration of the beginning steps of single-rein riding, and I am so grateful to her for sharing.  Horses do wiggle. That's totally normal.  Her ride shows you what to do about it.  I have shown this section of the DVD to a number of riders who were about to venture into the unknowns of single-rein riding, and I was delighted to see how much smoother their rides went as a result of watching Cindy on Merlin.

The Continuum of Single-Rein Riding
I need to pause here and say that when I talk about single-rein riding, I should really be calling it riding on a triangle.  I always think of a continuum. In pure single-rein riding you are riding in a halter and one lead.  That's all you have connected to your horse's head.  I was going to say that's all you have to steer your horse, but that's not true.  You have your seat and legs as well.  The function of the rein is to help integrate your whole body so you aren't just pulling your horse around by the nose but are riding as a connected, unified whole: hand, seat, legs, weight shifts, breath - intent.

Anyone who has ever hopped on a horse out in its pasture and ridden it back to the barn instead of walking it home, knows you can safely steer using just a halter and a lead.  It's a great experience to have tucked away in your riding background.  But swinging the lead over your horse's head each time you want to change direction can get old really fast, so most of us move from the halter and single lead to a halter or bridle with reins attached.  

You can still ride as though you had only one rein.  You'll slide down the inside rein and let the outside rein dangle unheeded.  

As you move along the continuum from pure halter-and-a-lead-rope single-rein riding to riding with two organized reins,  you'll find yourself using your buckle hand more deliberately in the pick up of the reins.  You'll be using the t'ai chi wall (everything is everything else yet again!) to create a triangle of the reins.  One leg of the triangle runs from the inside corner of the horse's mouth to the rider's inside hand.  The base of the triangle runs between the rider's hands, and the third leg of the triangle runs between the rider's outside (top) hand and the outside corner of the horse's mouth.

The critical connection in the triangle is the base of the triangle, the line running between the rider's hands.  The outside rein can have slack in it.  That's fine.  But you want a solid base.  You don't want a soggy triangle, meaning slack in the reins between your two hands.  The pick up of the reins is a t'ai chi wall pick up, meaning both hands are involved.  The mantra is: single rein riding is not single hand riding.  Part of the value of riding on a triangle is the rider learns to engage her core and to become more aware of the nuances that create feels-like-heaven rides.

I know some of the descriptions people send to this list of their rides can seem very esoteric, very unreachable when you are working by yourself trying to sort out the vagaries of a green horse.  But feels-like-heaven rides grow out of some very simple lessons.  Merlin shows perfectly what a wiggly, not-very-forward, round-as-a-barrel, green horse's early foray into single-rein riding can look like.  Merlin wiggled all over the place, and Cindy wiggled after him.  All of her habits that she'd learned trying to chase after his balance on two reins popped in.  Without the usual crutches, he could really wiggle!  But when Cindy connected to her core, when she found the triangle of the reins, and her t'ai chi wall connection, Merlin started walking straight lines!  

The ride lasts just over half an hour and the changes in him are quite dramatic.  At first Cindy can't let go of him without having him wiggle out from under her.  Mid-way through she can ride him on the buckle and he's following her seat.  And by the end, he's begun to pick himself up and look quite handsome.  In the recap at the end of her lesson Cindy described him as a horse she could never let go of.  To be able to ride him on a loose rein was something she had never been able to do with him, so she was thrilled with the lesson.

Merlin is very much like many of the horses people here on the list have.  He's a good natured fellow.  He's basically okay to ride.  You can get on and ride out on the trail, and you know you'll come back in one piece, but you also know there's something missing.  Merlin was not very well balanced.  He was safe, but he didn't bring out all the adjectives describing amazing connections, dream horses, magical rides.  Cindy could get from point a to point b in a serviceable way, but that's about all.  It's good enough if its good enough, but it could be oh, so very much, much more.

Glimpsing the Future: Oliver
The last horse on this DVD gives us a glimpse into the so much more.  This is Oliver from the Shaping on a Point of Contact DVD.  On that DVD you saw Oliver when he was two years old.  He was a very well behaved youngster.  His owner, Keri, had done a superb job bringing him along.  He was comfortable traveling. He was fun to be around.  He was well on his way to becoming a great companion horse.  But for riding he needed to learn something about balance.  As a two year old, Oliver was a slouch.  Every time he stopped his legs went every which way.  He paid no attention to where he put his feet, and his balance was all down hill.  When you looked at him in profile, everything hung down.  

We changed that picture dramatically by focusing on one of the foundation lessons: standing on a mat.  We revisited the rope mechanics and looked in the subtle details that are embedded in them but are easy to miss first time through.

At the end of the Shaping DVD Oliver didn't even look like the same horse.  He's standing in balance, with a beautiful pilates-type lift through his whole body.  From one day to the next he was a transformed horse.

Now in the "Capture the Saddle" DVD you get to see him a year later.  All I can say is Oliver is stunning.  He shows you what happens when a horse grows up in balance, using his body well. Oliver was a PMU foal.  He was a throw away baby.  But when you see him now, none of that matters.  He's breathtakingly gorgeous.

And he's having his first away from home ride, so you get to see how capture the saddle and  riding on a triangle work with a very new-to-riding but clicker-sophisticated horse.  And you get to see the future popping out as Oliver begins to incorporate his microshaping-pilates training into his ridden work.  Did I say he was beautiful?  That's a huge understatement!

That's the Capture the Saddle DVD.  I'll try not to be quite so long winded describing the other two.

"Riding On A Triangle: From Capture the Saddle to Three-Flip-Three"
Riding On A Triangle: From Capture the Saddle to Three-Flip-Three is actually a continuation of the "Capture the Saddle" DVD.  I would recommend you watch the Capture the Saddle DVD before getting the "Riding on a Triangle" lesson.

The DVD is divided into three main parts.  Most of the tape focuses on one horse, Missy, a seventeen year old appaloosa who was in the same clinic with Merlin and Fancy.  Missy is a very rideable horse.  Her owner, Judy, has done quite a lot with her, exploring many western disciplines, as well as enjoying trail riding.  But, like many horses, Missy had accumulated some unwanted baggage through her years of riding.  The most annoying habit she had was backing away as soon as Judy put her foot in the saddle.  

Now for many horses backing away or sidling off to the side can be a horse's subtle (or not so subtle) way of letting a rider know that something is wrong.  A horse who doesn't let you on may be trying to tell you that the saddle doesn't fit, or her feet hurt, or the bridle is bothering her, or her back is sore, or . . . the list goes on and on.  You've got the idea.  Not standing is a good indicator that you need to become a detective and look for the reasons behind the behavior. 

In Missy's case the reason seemed to be as simple as an operant behavior is determined by its consequences.  Every time Missy backed up, Judy took her foot out of the stirrup and let go of the rein.  For Missy, Judy's attempts to get on had become a cue to back up.  She was a wonderfully light, responsive horse who was just trying her hardest to do what she thought her person wanted!

The fix was great fun.  If the saddle had become a cue to back up, it could equally well become a cue to go forward.  So the first part of this DVD shows an extension of the "Capture the Saddle" lesson where we look at the power of cues and how they can be used in a creative way to solve problems.  

In Part two of the DVD Judy is on and ready to ride the same cone exercise that I showed on the previous DVD with Merlin.  The problem is Missy isn't going anywhere.  She's perfectly happy to just stand planted in one spot.  The other big hole in her training was revealing itself.  Missy wasn't very forward moving.  After many years of riding she was no longer an easy-to-energize foot mover, and she wasn't well connected rein to feet.  The night before the video was taken, Judy and some of the other riders from the clinic had gone out on a trail ride.  They'd encountered another rider out on the trail and things had disintegrated into a bit of chaos.   What that ride showed us was that Missy and the others horses were fine when nothing was going on, but when things went haywire, their riders needed better "tools" to keep things safe.

Safety Tool Box: Finding "Go"
So that's what we worked on in this lesson, the safety tool box that connects horse and rider.  We began by getting Judy and Missy better connected to "go".  Here's where the clicker combined with the single-rein riding really shines as a training approach.

Judy and Missy were stalled out at the halt.  I had Judy use the riding-on-a-triangle pick-up of the rein to ask Missy to bring her nose slightly to the side.  When Missy responded, Judy released the rein.  If a horse is very stiff at this point and is just learning what the pick-up of the rein is asking for, you would also click and give the horse a treat.  Later the rider simply releases the rein and immediately begins another cycle - picking up the rein and asking for a give of the jaw.

As this process continues, the horse begins to move his head further and further around to the side.  That's exactly what Missy did.  As her head bent around, her hips began to move ever so slightly to counterbalance the swing of her head.  This is where an understanding of microshaping pays huge dividends.  Microshaping teaches us to become aware of tiny shifts of balance and to use these shifts to shape larger and larger responses. (Refer to the "Microshaping: Learning to See the Smallest Try" DVD.)

So as Missy not only gave in her jaw but also freed up her hips, I wanted Judy to release the rein and to click those subtle but oh so important shifts.  There's a point in this process where you can feel the horse mobilize.  You just know that the next time as you pick up the reins, if you add a hint more leg, your horse will take a step.  And to help this process out, you can slide a little further down the rein so you connect directly to the hip.  When the horse takes a step over with his inside hind leg - click and treat.

That's the theory.  It all sounds very easy and smooth, and indeed it is, but it takes a bit of experience to recognize the shifts that are occurring underneath you, to release in a timely fashion, and to slide down to an appropriate length of rein.  Judy and Missy illustrate beautifully the evolution of this process.

So for anyone who has sat on a horse whose feet have that stuck-in-cement feeling, this will be a very useful DVD.  And if you have the opposite problem - a foot mover - the basic ride-around-a-cone exercise will help you out.  I have some good video of how to use that lesson to create halts and to regulate leg speed, but that will have to wait for another DVD.

Part Three of the  "Riding on a Triangle" lesson looks instead at how you can evolve the basic cone circle lesson into the beginnings of a three-flip-three lateral flexion.  Three-Flip-Three is explained in an earlier DVD.  Here I show you how to take advantage of the cones to pop out the beginnings of the lateral flexion while riding.

The Three-Flip-Three lesson looks at the two directions you can take a bend.  You can, for example, ask a horse to bend to the left and to turn to the left.  That's what he does when he turns around a cone.  So each time Judy and Missy turned around a cone, they were practicing the first half of three-flip-three.

There's a pivot point in each turn where the horse commits his balance fully to the turn.  He isn't carrying a right handed twist through a turn to the left.  He's fully committed to the left bend and he's pivoting underneath the rider through the turn.  He steps up deeply with his inside hind leg  so his hindquarters engage underneath him.  He's found the "flip" of three-flip-three.  

In the simple, first approximation of the cone circle, the rider completes the turn and rides on across the center of the circle, changing rein mid-way across so she is ready to turn around the next cone in the opposite direction.

As this lesson evolves, the rider becomes aware of the "flip" point in the turn.  Her horse is no longer a wiggle-worm meandering back and forth across the circle.  The turns are smooth.  They have a nice flow to them, and her horse walks off from each cone able to stay under her and ride forward on the buckle.   If the rider has some experience with lateral flexions, she'll notice that the beginnings of them are starting to pop out.  There are moments within the turns where her horse feels as though he could ever so easily step up and over into his outside shoulder.  It's time to ask for the second half of three-flip-three.  

If the horse is bending to the left,  turning to the left around a cone, he'll reach the "flip" point of three-flip-three.  He'll engage more behind and step up and under with his inside hind.  Instead of changing rein at this point and riding off to the next cone, the rider will stay on the left rein.  She'll feel the give of the hip, and she'll release the rein in response.  And then she'll pick up the rein again, just as she would if she were asking for a simple give of the jaw.  Only now she'll be thinking about the horse stepping over more into his outside shoulder.  Her thoughts will change the orientation of her body, and her horse will take a slight lateral step.  It's as though you were in a canoe and you just dipped your paddle into the water.  A slight turn of the paddle creates an answering change of direction in the canoe.

If all of this sounds confusing to you and you aren't sure where the horse is going, or what the rider is doing to create the change, go walk the pattern.  What you do in your body when you walk three-flip-three mirrors very much what you do when you ride it.

Judy hadn't ridden lateral flexions before, so she wasn't recognizing the moments when the next piece of three-flip-three was there to be had.  My job was to make her aware of the balance shifts that were evolving through the lesson.  That's also the function of this DVD - to help you be more aware of the good things that are evolving as you experiment with single-rein riding and the cone-circle lesson.  

Judy's first approximations of lateral flexions earned a click and treat for Missy.  She wasn't in perfect balance by any means, but she was on her way. She shows you what this lesson will look like if you are also new to lateral work.  As always I am so appreciative of all the people who have been willing to share their learning-curve lessons in this DVD series.

The DVD ends with a special treat showing you what a horse can do who understands how to use the three-flip-three equilibrium to stabilize her balance.  I won't tell you what it is.  You'll have to get the DVD to find out!

Helen House Horse: The Mechanics of Single-Rein Riding.
This brings us to the third DVD in this miniseries - Helen House Horse: The Mechanics of Single-Rein Riding.

I'll spare you the story behind the origin of the name Helen House Horse.  Suffice it to say that Helen is a saddle rack.  On this DVD we had a very fancy saddle rack - a vaulting stand.  You'll see an earlier version of Helen in the "Riding on a Triangle"  DVD.  That video was shot in 2007.  Poor Helen didn't yet have a head.   At this year's clinic she was much more complete.  She now has a head, so she could actually be bridled.  You don't have to have such an elaborate saddle stand to make use of this lesson.  Any stand that is sturdy enough to sit on will do.  

The video I used in this DVD was taken at a five day clinic.  We had time in the mornings to explore the nuances of micro-riding.  Then we took that new body awareness first to Helen and then to the horses.  What you will see on this DVD are the sessions we did on Helen House Horse.  The DVD begins with a demo where I'm sitting on Helen, going though the mechanics of single-rein riding.  I'm  highlighting some of the subtle differences that make a huge difference to the horse.  

I then work with the riders in the clinic, letting them experience for themselves the consequences of these differences.  What happens when you pick up the reins with and without bone rotations?  What happens when you have right-handers' wrist?  What happens when you have a connected t'ai chi wall versus a soggy triangle?

This later is really the main focus of the DVD.  If you've been using the t'ai chi wall rope mechanics in your ground work, you've been practicing the rein mechanics of riding.  When you pick up the triangle of the reins, you are really just moving from "grown-ups are talking" to the t'ai chi wall.

The Inner Workings: Finding the T'ai Chi Connection
Years ago I took a t'ai chi class that was taught by an instructor from China.  I took the class with a client of mine who was a dressage rider.  We were both interested in the same thing, finding a better connection to our core balance.  The instructor was both a gymnast and a martial arts specialist.  To watch him practice the t'ai chi forms was indeed a treat.  He was very skilled - very strong, wonderfully flexible - except, except he reminded us both of many of the competition horses we were seeing at that time.  These horses had all the outer trappings of the movements, but none of the inner balance.  They were impressive.  They could power their way through a test, but they left you feeling that something important was missing.  For all their raw power and obvious training, they weren't really very beautiful.

As we advanced in the t'ai chi class, the instructor introduced us to push hands.  This is where we began to understand what was missing.  In the push hands exercises that he taught us, two people work together.  The object was to dislodge the other person's balance and push him off his feet.  We both could consistently unbalance our instructor.  Our horses had taught us more about core balance than had all of his years of training in gymnastics and the martial arts.  Like those dressage horses he had the outer trappings of the movements but not the inner workings.

It is the inner workings that I am interested in because with horses, when you find them, when you can activate them consistently, magical, breath taking, truly beautiful things happen - and oh by the way, you can also be so much safer around rambunctious, high-energy, pushy horses.

I refer to the rope mechanics as t'ai chi rope handling not because you have to learn t'ai chi forms to use them, but because of the walk-and-chew-gum nature of them.  In the t'ai chi forms, you are doing one thing with your left hand, something different with your right, while you are moving through a complicated series of steps with your feet.  Everything ties together and is made possible through your core balance.  

T'ai chi rope handling, and the related "riding on a triangle" are not single-hand operations.   When you slide your hands apart into the t'ai chi wall, you use both hands, just as you would use both hands to draw a bow.  Likewise, single-rein riding is not single-hand riding. In both cases you are connecting the line to your horse via your engaged core.

What does this mean in practical terms?  A novice rope handler is all hands.  There's no connection to core.  This handler slides her hands apart and ends up pushing on her horse, using muscle to shove her horse out of the way.  It works as a first approximation, but as her horse becomes more sensitive, he'll find this kind of rope handling very heavy handed.  It will feel to him as though his handler is shouting at him through a megaphone.

And if the horse is particularly pushy or reactive, the handler may find her flimsy core structure is easily overwhelmed.  What sounds like a great technique "doesn't work."  But rather than throw the baby out with the bath water, this simply means that the handler needs to dig a little deeper into the mechanics to find the next layer of connection.  That's when she starts exploring bone rotations.  She ties a lead to a fence rail and starts practicing the slide down of the rope.  It feels awkward at first.  Coordinating everything, hands, feet, rope length, takes a bit of doing, but after a while it starts to feel more second nature.  She has a friend hold one end of the rope so she can get some feedback.  She slides down the rope the old way - all disconnected hands and her friend makes a face.  "That feels rough," she reports. "It's too demanding.  I wouldn't like it if I were a horse."

Our handler slides down the rope with her new skills in place and her friend visibly softens.  She doesn't have to say anything.  You can see the difference in her expression, her balance.  

So now the handler asks her horse what he thinks, and he gives her the same feedback her friend did.  When she slides along the rein using her bone rotations and her t'ai chi wall connections, he melts into a soft, flowing balance.

The door is now wide open to the next step in this process.  The bone rotations are moving you from the outer appearance of an exercise to the inner core balance.  Now the nuances of micro riding emerge. Here the rider learns to become present in her whole body.  She learns what that means. The t'ai chi wall connection loses it's mechanical nature and becomes truly a dance.  

In the Helen House Horse DVD I explore the transition from outer trappings to core function.  We look at bone rotations and how they impact the pick-up of the reins and the stability and effectiveness of the rider's seat.  There are no horses on this DVD other than Helen.  This lesson focuses on the rider.  Taking the horse's response out of the equation - at least for now - helps you to see more clearly what the rider is doing.

Almost done!
Phew . . . That's enough.  I may not write very often, but, when I do, I make up for it in length!

Those are the three new DVDs.  My upcoming projects will include a Micro-riding DVD, and I have two others also in the works, but I'll spare you for now an explanation of what's on those.

One final quick comment.  At the last clinic I spread out on a table all the books and DVDs.  It's quite a collection.  Three books, 14 DVDs.  I'm sure all this material can feel overwhelming, especially if you are new to this work. In times of tight budgets buying the whole collection can for many people be too much.  So where do you begin? Which DVD should you get? There's an article in the video section of my web site's book store entitled "What should I buy?". It walks you through the whole series and explains what is covered in each book and DVD and how they fit together in the teaching progression.  While I love getting orders for the whole set, I recognize that this is not just a budget breaker for many people, it can also be an overwhelming amount of information.  

So what I encourage people to do instead is to think of these DVDs as lessons which they might take from a local instructor.  If you are new to this work, begin by treating yourself to a monthly lesson.  Or if you want to save on shipping, buy a couple at a time.  Each of these DVDs is packed.  They are layered with information.  Every time you return to them, you will see things you didn't spot before. So you will be making an investment in a lesson that can be returned to many times. Using them in this way won't overwhelm either your budget or your ability to work your way through what is becoming a very large body of information.

And if you are in a hurry and you have a basically rideable horse, and you don't want to wait until you've watched all the other DVDs, you can jump into the deep end with these three new riding tapes and do quite well.  If you find you have holes in your understanding of the lessons, you can always go back and fill in as needed.

Enjoy!!!

Alexandra Kurland
theclickercenter.com


#6108 From: "tignloly" <charlotte@...>
Date: Sun Nov 2, 2008 8:15 pm
Subject: Clinic Notes - Groton & Toutle
tignloly
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Well, you asked for it.....!!  Here are the notes I took at Groton
and Toutle; I haven't differentiated between the two, and have sort
of grouped the notes by topic as opposed to who did what.

Enjoy :-)

MICRO-RIDING

The order is:
Shoulder blade-rib-top of thigh-thigh out-lower leg-bubbling spring-
back of heart-tongue-poll-head-lower jaw-front of diaphragm-middle-
back-lower back-pelvic floor-front of diaphragm.

Start with asking for life and awareness in the shoulder, then ask
the rider to move it in each of the 4 directions.  Initially it might
be a bit stiff, but often a couple of repetitions of up/down, in/out
can free it up sufficiently to move onto the next part.  You don't
want to aim for movement by rote or great big moves – there has to be
an aliveness to the feel.  The micro-riding chain is like the chain
set off when you pick up the rein and ask for the horse's jaw – how
far through the body does the feel go?  Repetition will build the
chain and create an automatic reaction so that the whole body becomes
alive when you pick up the rein.

You can then play with other concepts such as feeling what a
transition is like, whether it's the same with the same rider but
imagining different horses and also what turns are like.

Also try playing with the rein pick up – what does it feel like to
pick up the reins?  Try both imagining picking up the reins and then
compare to physically using reins – are they the same?  Is it
connected and smooth?  If not, what changes?

Note that just as with the horse, if you fail to access any part,
balance is difficult to achieve.  For example, if you don't move the
ribs it can be hard to access the thighs or diaphragm.  Similarly the
horse will be unable to access his hindquarters effectively if the
ribs are stuck.  When performing lateral flexions in hand, if the
horse twists, then the jaw and poll will not be truly free.

Micro-riding – get a baseline walk and then play with the micro
riding elements and see what happens!  It is important to get a good
consistent baseline so that you can see what the effects of the micro-
riding may be happening.  It is equally important to be able to
return to the baseline as and when you choose but take the time
needed to get it back.

ADVANCED INHAND WORK

Inhand walk, trot and canter beside the handler using `magic hands',
lengthen and shorten stride, shoulder-in and haunches-in and the flow
between them.

Piaffe can be built by trotting slower and slower in either shoulder-
in or haunches-in or potentially halt to trot inhand asking the horse
to rock forward out of the rock back.  Its important to choose the
right moment so that the horse's outside hind is on the ground and
ready to push forward.

In-hand strengthening – by asking the horse to raise and hold each
leg in turn, it will strengthen the back (provided the horse is
already in carriage rather than `down' in the back).  Each piece
should be built separately, either free-shaping or using a knee
target where the horse targets his knee to the hand and this can then
be lifted higher until the leg is held aloft.  This, combined with
piaffe-type mobilisations can effectively warm the horse up gently,
especially for older stiffer horses or in cold weather.

THE VALUE OF RE-SETS

A large theme of the clinic was the reset – balancing the weight
shift forward and back lightens the horse's forehand and increases
the weight-bearing capacity of the hindquarters.  An effective way to
create these shifts is to use the shoulder-in combined with rein-
back.  Can you ask your horse to move forward in shoulder-in, halt
and then re-set back into shoulder-in?  Note that both the weight
shift forward as well as the one back is a clickable moment BUT be
careful not to get stuck in a sluggish backward slide; instead look
for the feet to truly become unglued.

The outside hand is the important one in this exercise – it is the
one that communicates to the outside hind which is where we want the
horse to push off from, bending the joint and springing forward.
Eventually you are looking for the horse to rockback and then come
forward to a collected start – think micro-riding as you do this
exercise, from where could you instigate the halt and from how little
a weight shift can you create movement?  The horse should be able to
perform `willing, eager, comfortable weight shifts.'

The exercise can then be developed further to include:
•Shoulder-in, halt, proceed in shoulder-in
•Shoulder-in, halt, straighten out and reinback, re-set in shoulder-in
•Shoulder-in, halt, reinback in shoulder-in, reset forward in
shoulder-in

The march needs to be equal forward and back – think about walking
back with your own feet.  There should be a release with every step
both from the reins and from your body – as the horse goes back, you
may need to think forward with your hands in time with the feet.

When stopping in shoulder-in, what do you need to do to keep the
shoulder-in whilst in halt?  What elements of micro-riding can you
bring in?  You'll need this to be able to keep the balance and walk
off in a good shoulder-in position.  This is different from halting,
its more of a `freeze frame' in that the horse is balanced enough to
stop at any point in the stride.

Another option for the re-set is to develop backing in an arc –
rather than going straight back, see whether you can back around a
square.  This movement requires real sensitivity as it is easy to
oversteer or fail to set the horse up correctly – if the horse is
bent to the left for example, it will be very difficult to send the
back end to the right.  Practice backing a square yourself – where
does your weight go?

Another exercise is to develop shoulder-in on a square – this creates
balance and softness.  Its important to really place the hips through
the corners; use the outside rein if you lose either the balance or
the hind end.  You're aiming for the same cadence throughout.  Play
with increasing the energy on the long side and decreasing on the
short.

RIDING ON A TRIANGLE - 3 FLIP 3 & LATERAL FLEXIONS

When riding on a triangle – get in, get something, get out!

Ride the basic cone pattern – around the circle, then across the
centre of the circle, round a cone and then back across the cone and
repeat.  Use both the triangle and lateral flexions to help the horse
balance around the cones but be careful not to turn too tightly or
the forward energy will be killed.  There needs to be a great deal of
releases so that forwards in maintained and also so that the horse
does not lean on the bridle.

When riding on the triangle, the inside hand must not go above the
withers and each release must be complete, otherwise there is a
tendency to grab at the rein whilst leaving the outside hand up.  If
you fail to stabilise the inside hand or slide the outside shoulder-
blade down, the hands can move too much which can encourage the horse
to lean or fidget.  Your elbow needs to stay connected to your core –
if you feel the horse leaning, try opening the outside rein out but
feel it out, don't get fixed rigidly to your side.

If the horse has a more difficult side, rather than working it
to `fix' it, visit the more difficult side briefly and then return to
the easier one which in itself will be a reinforcement.  Gradually
the two sides will begin to balance out.

When you pick up the triangle, ensure it is up the midline and not
out infront of the body since this not only destabilises the seat but
also can result in unstable hands.  The inside hand needs to be down
at the shoulder, clear and consistent.

As the flexion builds around the cones, you can then move into 3 flip
3 when the balance is ready.  It can help if the index finger on the
inside hand is pointed in the direction you wish the shoulders to
go.  You'll know when the balance is right, as the movement is there
for the taking.

When riding 3 flip 3 into hip shoulder shoulder, you are seeking to
catch the hip, not force it.  It is important to pick the right point
to ask for the hip – if you get it right, the horse will glide over
and back in the `Gene Kelly glide'.  Don't fall into the trap of
asking for it all at once – start with catching the hip, then
attaining the glide before finally asking for the full movement.  The
backward shift should come from the balance and not from the reins.
Each give and release softens the jaw and works to unweight the
inside shoulder – if the balance is right, you can't help but go back.

As hip shoulder shoulder develops, it begins to be almost straight
line – the gives become more and more micro until the horse will flex
weight and balance the outside hind as a reset rather than a grand
give of the hip.

RIDING ON 2 REINS

If you are widening your hands when on 2 reins, make sure that there
is no backward traction.  Also, the triangle remains when you take up
2 reins with the inside hand lower than the outside and the hands
retaining their respective jobs.

The cue to go forward is not the picking up of the outside rein – the
horse should be able to accept the rein pick-up at any point and not
associate it with moving forward.  This is built in hip shoulder
shoulder on the ground so that when you move from one side to the
other, the horse does not associate picking up the rein with walking
off.

It is important when the horse offers you 2 rein balance to organise
the outside rein so that you can receive the horse's spine.  If you
do not handle it sensitively, the horse may lose its balance.  Only
pick up 2 reins from a clickable moment.

WWYLM & HSS

Its important to balance the desire to move forward and around you
with the ability to stand still – if the horse tends to rush off
after each click and treat, insert a pause using `adults are talking'
so that the horse is able to wait before the handler asks him to do
something.

If you are working a large horse, you may find that by trying to put
your hand on the wither actually blocks both yourself and the horse
from moving forward.  Instead change the points of contact so that
you can get the bend around without compromising forward.  Remember
when you ask the horse to come forward, it is with 2 hands – invite
with one and ask the horse to come around with the other.

If the horse is so far back that you have to reach to the shoulder,
you'll both get jammed up.  Focus instead on moving the horse
forward – go to a point of contact and then lead.  It may help to
walk off at a slight tangent to the circle if the horse finds it
really difficult to walk off freely.  Play with the hand on the snap –
  lead forward and come back to me – both hands need to be alive.

During the initial stages, heavily reinforce the balanced walk-off –
you'll do lots and lots of start ups.  It is up to the horse to find
the balance, not for the handler to micro-manage.  The power if in
the unfolding of the buckle hand – can the horse start to move off so
that your hands could unfold or are you blocked?  By rewarding every
startup in correct balance, the horse will learn to balance in all
orientations.

When you work on wwylm at liberty, use the target to create bend and
position if they leave, but don't keep it there consistently.  If the
horse is not able to keep alongside you and bend around, go back to
using the target to get the horse to walk beside your thigh and then
infront and around.  Note that before you ask the horse to come in
and around, you want the horse up and forward – if you do it too
soon, they will fall onto the inside and lean on their shoulders.  If
you ask for the horse to come up and forward, you have a greater
chance of keeping the shoulders upright and reaching forward.

Ask yourself whether the horse is staying in his own space or coming
ontop of you.  If the horse is trying to overtake or charge forward,
rather than using the lead to hold him back, use hip shoulder
shoulder.  If the horse tries to change bend, either walk out or
change direction.

From using the target, you can develop `magic hands' where one hand
holds the target and the other (buckle) hand sets the perimeter of
the circle on his shoulder.  Eventually you could get to the point
where you can work at liberty using the magic hand on the horse's
shoulder forward, back, at all gaits.

Another way to develop magic hands is to start walking with the horse
and hold your hand up.  If the horse stays, click and treat but if
they go, do nothing and wait for them to return.  You will gradually
get to the point where the horse targets to your hand.  The other
option might be to target standing still.

If you are working in lateral flexions all the time, you need an exit
strategy – eg go to the mat, walk forward and so on.

When performing hip shoulder shoulder think about how far away from
the cone you should start organising the rein and the horse's body so
that they are set up correctly for the turn.  Think about `good,
better, best' with the 3 gives of the jaw to catch the hip and create
the Gene Kelly glide.  Although you should ensure there are many
releases thoughout the movement, don't abandon the horse.

INHAND LATERAL FLEXIONS IN THE BRIDLE

Stand by the girth area and ask the horse to give very very slightly
to the bit – the most important thing to look for is straightness of
give, no twisting or leaning.  Go to a point of contact and wait for
the horse to give to you – by standing at the shoulder area, you can
help keep the horse from bending around or leaning or stop him
perceiving your presence as driving him forward.

If the horse curls around and you need to reset him, lift the rein to
straighten out the neck.  If the horse moves, stay with him but if
there is too much movement, you could try transferring to a smaller
area.  You can also use the food delivery to straighten the horse
out.  Make sure the reins are even when you release them.

Note that if you put lateral flexions in a horse who already knows
the post, it results in a more well-rounded `up' expression.

MATWORK

Get the horse balanced on the mat and then ask for a yield of the
hind end or front end whilst keeping the end on the mat still.
Matwork is all about ground tying – can your horse stand on the mat
whilst you walk off?  Develop this in steps and if the horse comes
off, put him back on.

TABLE MANNERS & GROWNUPS

If the horse is grabby, bring food down between their nostrils – you
are wanting the horse to use his muzzle to get the food, not his
teeth!

If the horse is having trouble with table manners, you need to be on
your best t'ai chi behaviour when taking hold of the halter or giving
out treats.  You may need to stabilise the horse's head to prevent
him grabbing, but its important not to be jerky or rough yourself and
instead use bone rotations to gently take hold and stabilise his head.

Overhand taking of the halter is less directive – wait for the horse
to relax and then release.  The click can then be even more powerful
with its relaxation association.  Note that the hand on the halter
also becomes a cue and lessens the grab for the treat.

You also want the horse not to always associate a hand on the nose
with food.

With grownups, you want to be able to have the horse's head where you
want it – for example, at or equal to the wither BUT remember that
when you first teach grownups, it is freeshaped ie this is before the
rein has been activated.  Once the rein has been activated for
leading and positioning, it is then fair to position the head during
grownups but not before.

There are 2 types of grownups –
•Handler slouching – click and treat for relaxation
•Handler in t'ai chi `up' posture – click and treat for posture in
the horse

REIN HANDLING

It is very important that the top of the triangle is solid, otherwise
you will lose your seat and stability and release your hands
together, softly.
Just because you have rope reins, don't fall into the pattern of
grabbing; instead play with your fingers and close them separately.
Think flute, not baseball bat!  When you close your hand around the
rein, its fingerPADs to your palm as opposed to fingerNAILs.  As well
as practicing a complete pickup, see if you can perform a partial
pickup with the thumb and index finger.

When picking up the reins, generate the move from breathing into the
shoulderblades – play with all directions to free up the shoulders,
up/down, in/out, circles etc.  You need enough breath to complete the
cycle – the whole pickup of the rein is a complete cycle. The feel of
picking up reins this way is very different from initiating the move
from the elbow.  Remember when you are corrected seated in the
shoulders, you will be stable and not easily moved.

QUOTES FROM THE CLINICS:

•Don't be passive, be responsive but not reactive.

•Don't force it, feel it!

•Test the feel of a circle in your body – how accurately can you walk
a circle?  If you can't walk one, how accurately can you ride one?

•The more you want to raise your hand, the more you should probably
put it down.

•The horse needs to believe their withers are going to move over.

•Once you have lateral flexion and shoulder-in, the rest of the
horse's life is about fine tuning it

•Cues are very powerful – they establish really quickly and are not
used enough.

•3 flip 3 is a balanced position in lateral flexion from which you
can access any gait in any direction.

•Just because you are using positive reinforcement, it doesn't mean
the animal is having a good time – at the start you are a lumper, so
the animal can get really confused.  There's not enough feedback to
make it clear for them.  As we develop the ability to split down
behaviours, the horse becomes more confident.

•At the point in training where you might want to escalate pressure –
add more steps.

•If you can get a forward walk in the arena, you truly have a forward
cue, rather than the environment or other horses acting as a cue.

•Allow the movement all the way through your body – when the horse is
really trotting in balance, you need to allow it all the way through
to their mouth.  If the reins are moving in a sine wave, then the
horse is truly through in its movement.

•What is a cue?  At what point do we want to have it recognised by
the horse?  If you are in a different orientation or position, can
the horse still recognise the cues?  What is really a cue for the
horse – is it the `hand wavy' things or a shift in the abdominals for
example?

•You don't have to do anything fast, but you do have to do it
promptly.

•Its not about overcorrecting him, its about helping him.

•Use the food delivery to move the horse around.  This way you can
minimise the use of the lead to position the horse and avoid making
him grumpy!

•He doesn't know how to get out of my way – I have to play my part in
the do-si-do.

•I want to see a walk with the other gaits in it.

•Be careful not to click defensively – ie to stop something happening.

•Don't block a good trot – its how you end up with lame resentful and
stiff horses.  Redirect instead.  However, you might want to block a
trot if the horse goes into it with a stiff spine.

•You don't just have to explain what the cue IS but what its NOT.

#6107 From: "tignloly" <charlotte@...>
Date: Sat Nov 1, 2008 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: Thank you Alex
tignloly
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Hi everyone

Thanks all for a fabulous clinic(s) - I loved both Groton and Toutle
and had a fantastic time.

I took quite extensive notes and will post them. Apologies in advance
if they seem a little waffly; sometimes watching, reading and writing
is all the multi-tasking I can cope with!!!  They aren't really notes
in the 'so and so did this, my lesson covered that' but the concepts
that took root in my mind.

Been having a great time since I got back - Loly is as keen as ever
and we just got the first glimmers of travers inhand today.  That
Alex is always right.....it just popped out as she said it would!!!

I can't believe that I ever had trouble asking Tig to put her head
down.  She has SO got it now in the headcollar and the bridle and I'm
so pleased with her :-)  I am still astounded that the horses who
have this behaviour really solid actively choose to put their heads
down when they are scared or worried.

I've been having much fun practicing my new 'triangle' skills!  I
think if I told people I spent an incredibly happy 20 minutes asking
my horse to change from left to right rein on a triangle they might
think I'd lost the plot!!

Thank you all for the most wonderful welcome and hospitality - thanks
in particular to Kate, Lin and Debbie as you were the PERFECT
hostesses!










--- In the_click_that_teaches@yahoogroups.com, "debraodaniels"
<daniels@...> wrote:
>
>  "Perhaps you would care to explain what you meant when you wrote,
And
> I did so enjoy my ride on Magic being the pole holder!!
>  Or do you really want us to try to imagine what you could possibly
be
> talking about?  Katie
> *********************************
> Hilary will explain, but I must say she was brillant and theatrical
in
> her movements. And she rode Magic beautifully.  The video clips of
our
> first approximation of 'the pole' was glorious and full of
potential I
> thought.  I wish Hilary lived close to me so we could continue in
> costume and appropiate stage lighting!  (You Brits must come back
next
> year!)
>
> (Hilary:  I have since ridden Magic with the pole and he was fine.
I
> do want a longer one though.  I see what you mean.)
>
> Hilary and Charlette were a riot!  And Monty from Canada too was a
> pure delight. Monty is the 'Pony Fairy' and also owns a magnificant
> Andulsain.  What is your website Monty?  She gave me such loving
> support with my June Bug pony...whom I have been teased about
riding.
> You should see Monty's welsh pony Snow!  Size does not matter in
this
> work!
>
> It is so wonderful to gather a few times a year with like minded
horse
> people.
>
> Whom of the Brit's took clinic notes?  Are you going to post them?
>
> Debra
>
>
> >
>

#6106 From: "Katie Bartlett" <katie.bartlett@...>
Date: Sat Nov 1, 2008 1:31 pm
Subject: RE: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
kabart315
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Hi Becky,

 

Ki-Lin’s behavior sounds pretty normal to me for an enthusiastic, young clicker horse. They do love the game and they sometimes get ahead of themselves, and us.  An important skill for a clicker trainer is to be able to put together a balanced training program so that each exercise has one of more complementary exercises that can modify it and keep the horse at an appropriate energy and interest level.

 

First of all, I would like to say that clicker training can create the kind of horse you want, and it all depends upon what you click and how you balance out the exercises you choose to work on.   Clicker training does build focus and interest and in some horses, this translates into a kind of excitement that is a bit overwhelming because they are so anxious to get the right answer that they don’t take the time to listen to the question. As soon as you think it, or even before, they are off.  This is actually a good thing and it is why shaping works so well with them.  So we don’t want to squash it. 

 

But we do need to redirect it and teach them that waiting until we are ready is going to pay off more than jumping the gun.  This is one reason Alex spends so much time on emotional control exercises in the foundation lessons.  Head down, grown-ups, and mat work all work together to teach the horse about how to calm down, stay in one place and wait for the next request.   Doing some duration work on them often makes big changes in a horse’s attitude during clicker training.   Once the horse understands the foundation lessons, I use them to balance out the increased energy that can come from starting new behaviors.

 

Since it is easy to spout theory and not always easy to apply it, here are some practical ideas for your specific issue (unrequested trotting). Hopefully once you see how to approach that issue, it will give you ideas for ways to modify your work sessions to more generally address what is going on.

 

I have started 3 horses under saddle with clicker training and they all did what you are describing. Starting the trot was like opening a whole new and exciting world for them and they just wanted to practice trotting all the time.  I think, to be honest, that they did that with other behaviors, but it was easy to redirect them and there was not quite the safety issue.   With the trot, it is so obvious that the horse is not paying attention to what you want and just offering the newest and most fun behavior.  And there is the safety issue too.  The horses I started were all mine and I knew them well. They all had a good “whoa” and I was fairly confident of my ability to ride them, although with young, green horses, one does always have to be prepared for the unexpected.

 

My horses all knew how to trot on the ground and in-hand so they had a good voice cue for trot.  The first day when I worked on trotting under saddle, my goal was just to show them they could trot under saddle. I work alone so I don’t have the advantage of a helper but they usually caught on pretty quickly once I reinforced for any semblance of a trot.  So, my initial goal was just to get them to trot a little.  Is it really on cue? Well, sort of – I have a way to get them started, but it is not my final cue and it is not under stimulus control, but that’s ok. I just do it in little bits and pieces. Between trots, I will work on a behavior that is more likely to calm them down (head lowering, mat work, whoa, any simple and recognized pattern I have worked on before). 

 

At some point, with some it was the first day, with others it took a few sessions, they start to offer the trot.  I am ok with this, but please, remember you have to evaluate your own situation. If you don’t want any unrequested trotting, then don’t allow it. You have to put stimulus control on early.  Why do I allow it?  Part of it is that I don’t want to squelch their enthusiasm. Part of it is that I want them to figure out how to get their own bodies into trot, and part of it is because it gives me a chance to try and get the cue in there.    At least for me, what usually happens is I have some way to ask for the trot, but since I am now sitting on them, they don’t figure it out right away.  Then the horses figure out I want something different than a walk so they offer all sort of variations between walk and trot.  What I really want is a nice clean trot and I want to give the horse a chance to find it without a lot of direction from me.   A lot of extra movement or distraction on my part can interfere with the balance on a young horse and I am ok with letting them experiment a bit on their own. 

 

But once they are consistently offering it, I want to have a good working cue and I want to start putting it on the part of stimulus control that says don’t do it unless I ask.  One way to do this is to add the cue before they are going to trot anyway. I sometimes use cones for this. I will set up some cones and have the horse trot at a cone. Once the horse starts to offer trotting at a cone, then I add the cue before the cone and reward the horse for trotting off the cue, and not using the cone as a marker.   Once I start doing this, I don’t reinforce trotting when I didn’t ask. Remember that because you are using reinforcement, you don’t have to get all flustered or make your horse stop if it trots off cue.  Just don’t reinforce uncued trotting, ask the horse to walk again and then ask for trot and reinforce only those trots that you cue.

 

But what if the horse really just wants to trot and you feel it is getting frustrated? You can do what you did which is go back to walk, halt and just take trotting out of the list of possible behaviors for that session.   That would be working on the part of stimulus control that says the animal doesn’t offer the behavior off cue.   If the horse really wants to trot and I don’t want to allow it at all, I might do that.

 

Or I might switch gears and teach a new and completely different behavior so that the new behavior is now the new one the horse wants to offer.   I would leave the trot for a bit and then when the horse has forgotten about it (maybe within that same ride), I will ask for trot and reinforce the horse for trotting on cue. Then go right back to the other behavior or something else.  I just might not trot two times in a row. I do something else, sneak in a trot and then switch gears again. That way the horse doesn’t get fixated on the trot. I might Premack it (the Premack Principle) and ask the horse for head lowering. If he does it well, he gets to trot.  There are lots of ways to mix things up so that you can practice a bit of trotting without the horse taking over.

 

I will say that if my horse really wants to trot and I feel it is safe, I will give him lots of opportunities to do it one cue.  But that doesn’t mean I have to do it every day or throughout every session.  I might work on trotting one day and then not do it all the next day. I am not sure if this is true of most clicker trained horses, but my horses seem to carry a mental list of behaviors that are likely to be reinforced.   They have a lot of standard things I reinforce on a regular basis but then they add things as you ask for them within a session.  

 

For example, when Rosie learned to canter, she never offered it at all until I started asking for it.  Then she offered it when I didn’t ask for a while, but then she got some level of stimulus control so that when I came out and got on her, she had a mental list of possible behaviors: walk, trot, halt, back, baby give…  She would not offer canter at all in the early part of the ride. But at some point, I would cue the canter and reinforce it and her list would now be: walk, trot, canter, back, baby give…  - sometimes I think her list was: canter, canter, canter, walk, trot, canter, back, canter, baby give…

 

My point is that until I had asked for it once on cue, she didn’t offer it so if it was a day when cantering seemed like a bad idea, I just never asked and she never did it. If it was a good day, I would ask her to canter and recognize that cantering was now on her list (maybe a lot) and I needed to set things up so that I was prepared for unrequested canters and I balanced out that tendency with lots of exercises that kept calmer and more connected to me.

 

You asked about head lowering from the saddle. Alex teaches head lowering from a lifted rein cue on the ground so that you can do exactly the same thing from the saddle. It helps to do it a lot on the ground, then get on and ask for it right away. Most horses go “hey – I was just rewarded 50 times for dropping my head on the ground and now my rider is doing this new and strange thing, so I think I’ll just do what has the most recent strongest reinforcement history and drop my head.”  Head lowering is helpful to balance out exercises that generate energy. If you are not comfortable giving a horse that length of rein, mat work works too.  I also use lateral flexions to encourage a horse to soften and drop his head so that might be something to work on too.

 

Ok, I am running out of steam here. Hopefully this gives you some ideas.

 

Katie

 

 

Elverson, Pa.

www.equineclickertraining.com

 

 

p.s. I keep referring to the parts of Stimulus control:  Stimulus control has 4 parts:  the animal does the behavior on cue, the animal doesn’t do the behavior when not asked, the animal doesn’t do some other behavior when cued for the desired one, and the animal doesn’t do that behavior for some other cue.

 

The Premack Principle (simplified) states that a less likely behavior can be reinforced by permission to do a more likely behavior.    Horse wants to move:  I reinforce standing still by giving the horse permission to move off after he stands still.  According to Premack, the horse is now more likely to stand still.

 

 

 

 


#6105 From: "nellipell" <ulrika@...>
Date: Sat Nov 1, 2008 8:25 am
Subject: Re: Attentive excitement vs. relaxation
nellipell
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Hi Becky
I am absolutely no expert but I have been working much whith this
question of yours. I have a young mare that is so eager to do right
that she sometimes works herself up to very high stress levels.

First of all I am very sure that this is VERY dependable on your
horses..personality and selfconfidence. Secondly I think it gets less
of a problem whith growing confidence. My older mare is VERY confident
and sure of her self and never bothers with being afraid of not doing
it right, she either does what I ask or not;-) FOr her C/T only works
as an incentive.

As Amanda says repetitive things is things we recognize and that has
been one of my solutions. We only do some small things whith a lot of
headlowering allways on the programme... That get boring for me AND in
the end for Nell too and she starts to overdo it (ambitious she is)

Another way of doing it in a recognizable form is making a pattern out
of the things you want to do with the horse. I realized its potential
when I tried Parellis Patterns and now we do our own patterns, doing
things in a set ORDER seems to be nice for horses. doing the same
thing at the same PLACE seem to be nice AND KNOWING what is comming
seem to be VERY nice.

Nellie gets so stressed up that she wrinkles her whole muzzle when
agitated, and I can read very well when she relaxes a bit by watching
the wrinkles, as soon as I release her into a known pattern she sighs
and DO it very confident and she shines whith a look that says I know
what to do and I do it very well.
The older mares reaction to patterns is she will start to excel, she
tries some more, she do the things asked of her with a flourish. I
take that as an approval too;-) And in riding doing patterns is SOO
good, making her relax instantly as soon as she recognizes the
pattern, and we thereby do not need any other warmup time. She goes to
work instantly.

Actually many of Alexes lessons is patterns, 3 flip 3 for instance,
the horse learns the sequence and has a chance of doing it together
with you because it knows what is coming. They really seem to like
that. By changing pattern or put some new element into it it becomes a
new pattern, doing the same too much breeds contempt;-)

At least that is how I have solved it. More theoretically I would say
it has to do with confidence as a learner, there are pretty big
differences in that in different horses.

Ulrika/sweden

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