--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Forbes Bagatelle-Black" <diarmaede@...>
wrote:
Is this still available?
>
> Hi All,
>
> OK, believe it or not, this bike is TOO BIG for me, but maybe someone on this
list could get good use out of it.
>
> 72cm seat tube, c-to-c.  63cm top tube.  The listing does not say what tubing
is used.
>
> Starting bid is only $10.  I'll be interested to see what this ends up going
for.
>
> Ebay #280320610236
>
> http://tinyurl.com/awu93u
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Forbes Black
>

Hi All,

OK, believe it or not, this bike is TOO BIG for me, but maybe someone on this
list could get good use out of it.

72cm seat tube, c-to-c.  63cm top tube.  The listing does not say what tubing is
used.

Starting bid is only $10.  I'll be interested to see what this ends up going
for.

Ebay #280320610236

http://tinyurl.com/awu93u

Sincerely,

Forbes Black

I want to meet you. Give me a chance! Click here to chat with me online:
http://mvideoplus.zoomshare.com/files/chat.htm

I want to meet you. Give me a chance! Click here to chat with me online:
http://cleavoncu.zoomshare.com/files/chat.htm

I created this cool friends network and added you to my friends network. Hit-up
now:
http://mgdsdh.zoomshare.com/files/kenny.htm

I read your profile today, I thought I would drop you a line and hope to become
your friend! Check my personal page here:
http://brittanyf.zoomshare.com/files/friend.htm

I want to meet you. Give me a chance! Click here to chat with me online:
http://huygggh.zoomshare.com/files/chat.htm

I am a six foot four inch tall recumbent and mountain bike rider.
When I bought a new long wheelbase RANS recumbent to replace my old
BikeE I loved it but noticed somthing wasn't quite the same.
I focused in on the fact that the new bike came with a 170mm crank
where the old one had a 175mm.
Looking around at the raging debates on the internet about optimum
crank lengths I saw lots of opinions.  Everything from "forget about
it" to "shorter the better" to "longer legs need longer cranks".
The final argument made the most sense to me.  I read where champion
riders chose to ride cranks that where roughly proportional to their
leg length.  I also noted that not many champions where on the very
tall end of the human scale.  If you extrapolated the numbers a rider
my size might want a 190mm or longer size for a match between the
crankset and their anatomy.

I found few cranks available even at 185mm.
So I invented Crank Clockers.
There were a few crank length adjusters out there but they were
either extremely expensive and required replacing the crank anyway or
they are big clunky looking things that only allow relatively huge
steps in adjustment of 15mm at a pop.  I wanted to be able to shorten
or length the crank to any length with in reason.

What I came up with is a set small links with two holes. One hole for
a bolt that goes into the pedal and one hole to screw the pedal
into.  It is 25mm between holes which meant I could set the crank on
my new recumbents 170mm pedal anywhere from 195mm to 145mm increments
as small as I was willing or able to measure.  The two bar linkage
formed by the pedal and the links in my Crank Clockers allows you to
set any length by clocking the small link.  Obviuosly you need to
clock them both the same way to maintain 180 degrees between the
pedals.  The trick to making it work on any bike is a row of M5 set
screws pressing against a washer that locks the link from turning.
It holds under the heaviest and strongest rider without budging and
can be reoved without marring the crankset in the least.

Any added benefit to me is that the Crank Clockers also set out the
pedal 1/2" which helps with my wider body size.  This of course does
not optimize the Q factor but I think getting your pedal spacing and
especially your crank length just right is WAY more important.


I now ride 190mm crank lengths on my recumbent and 200mm crank
lengths on my mountain bike.  My average time has gone up at least 1
mph, the hills are easier, sprints are more powerful and the sore
spot in my quads after a hard ride has moved.  The big muscle gets
sore more in the center rather than out toward the knee.  I feel like
I am making much better use of my quads.

I am offering these things for sale and paying the machinist to make
them.  I only have 5 sets right now and they are price at $149.95.

I hope to get a patent. I imagine one day that lots of bicycle crank
arms will be made as adjustable two piece linkages and you all can
say you knew me when I was just an obscure guy from Stone Mountain
pedalling his life away.

Anyway email me or watch the website www.dcmchenry.com for info as it
is made available.  Grab a set you will be glad you did.

David

Someone buy this so I don't have to!!!

eBay item #370062577271

http://tinyurl.com/5zohln

It's a B'stone 400 converted to a fixie.  I believe the 400s were all
cro-moly, but I am not 100% sure on that.

The really nice thing about the big B'stones is that they have nice,
long 62cm top tubes.

I'd snatch it up, but the wife would murder me in my sleep if she
caught me sneaking another bike into the garage.

NOT MINE!

Yours,

Forbes B-Black

If you've got a cool, large bicycle, and you want to show it off, post
a photo of it on my flickr group at:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/497742@N25/

Yours,

Forbes B-Black

--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Forbes Bagatelle-Black"
<diarmaede@...> wrote:
>
>
> I built up one of the sample frames I had made for me in Taiwan...

BTW:  I added some photos on the website:

http://cyclesvalhalla.com/bicyclesandframes/bicyclesfortallfolks.html

And I put up lots of high-res photos on the flickr site:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclesvalhalla/

Yours,

Forbes

I built up one of the sample frames I had made for me in Taiwan.  I took it on a good ride, and I feel confident offering the other five frames and forks I have for sale at this point.  After these five are gone, I will be taking pre-orders for my first big order of these frames.

I designed the 2XLT specifically for folks 6'4" to 6'10" (I am 6'6").

Here are frame specifications and my thoughts:

Frame Geometry:

"Virtual" Center-to-Top Seat Tube Length (assumes horizontal top tube): 68cm

Top Tube Slope:  Up 5cm from seat tube to head tube

Top Tube Length, Center-to-Center, Measured on the Horizontal: 63.4cm

Wheelbase: 1089mm

Chainstay Length: 43cm

BB Drop: 6.5cm

Head Angle: 73°

Seat Angle: 72°

Fork Steerer Tube Length: 400mm

Materials:

Frame: 7005 High Strength Aluminum with Replaceable Drive-Side Dropout

Fork: Carbon Fiber with Aluminum Dropouts

Eyelets, Etc:

Frame – Eyelets and inserts for a rear rack and rear fender plus two water bottles

Fork – Single eyelet on each dropout

Weight:

Frame: 1676g (3.69lb)

Fork: 612g (1.35lb)

Maximum Tire Size: 700C X 32mm, front.  Rear tire could be wider.

Headset Requirement: Cane Creek IS2 Integrated headset, or equivalent

Brake Requirement:  Brakes must have at least 56mm of reach

Fit:

I built the frame up with all the headset spacers I could fit on the uncut steerer tube.  These totaled 3.3" (84mm), and they brought the handlebars up to about 1cm below my saddle height (I have a 37" inseam).  I was using a 140mm stem with 7 degrees of rise.  If I cut down the steerer tube and flipped the stem down, I am guessing the bars would have been about 9cm below the saddle.

Even though I generally try to get the most stretched-out position I can on a bicycle, I have never been THIS stretched out.  During the first few miles of riding, I even (gasp) thought about putting on a shorter stem.  However, as I relaxed into the extra stretch, I realized that I LIKED IT!  By the end of the ride, I had a big smile on my face.

Ride:

Most really large frames have very steep head angles.  I bucked this trend with the 2XLT.  I kept the head angle at 73°.  I knew that the relaxed head angle, combined with the long top tube and chain stays would make for a smooth, stable ride, and I was curious to see just how smooth it would be.  I had ridden my "proof of concept" frame, built from steel tubing, for many miles.  It had essentially the same geometry, but it was a bit heavier (at 3.7lb, I consider the 2XLT frame to be light, but not too light.  It is plenty sturdy enough for us big folks).

I was pleasantly surprised by the responsiveness of the 2XLT frame.  It was as stable as I had hoped, but it cornered like a champ.  The frame was plenty stiff, although not quite as stiff as my first-generation Cannondale, circa 1985.  The carbon fork did not seem to feel substantially different from the steel forks I have ridden in the past.  Perhaps I am not as tuned in to the subtle aspects of ride "feel" as some other folks.  Perhaps my 28mm rear tire and relatively soft saddle are cushy enough to override the small differences created by different frame materials.

Overall Impressions:

I have the bike set up for fast sport-riding, and it has risen admirably to the task.  I have not yet mounted a rack and fatter tires, but I am looking forward to seeing how the behavior of the bike changes when I have it set up for touring or the urban jungle.

I am also looking forward to taking the bike on some looooong rides through the mountains of Southern California.  It will be a new and exciting experience for me, doing some extended rides on a thoroughly modern bicycle that actually fits me!

hey all
Thanks for the feedback on the Mericer bikes.
One more question - anyone have any feedback about a motobecane net
noir bike?
I have an opportunity to buy a 64 cm for good $
let me know
Thanks
Chris

----- Original Message -----

From: sox_pa_wheels

To: tallrides@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 6:04 AM

Subject: [tallrides] road bike offered

Hey guys - this is the 6'9" tall guy writing again
I found this bke on ebay - anyone know anything about it or mercier
bikes?

Brand new 2007 MERCIER AQUILA AL ROAD BIKE
with DOUBLE-BUTTED 7005 tubing and Carbon Fork AND new Shimano 105
price is $496

Thanks

Chris

Hey guys - this is the 6'9" tall guy writing again
I found this bke on ebay - anyone know anything about it or mercier
bikes?

Brand new 2007 MERCIER AQUILA AL ROAD BIKE
with DOUBLE-BUTTED 7005 tubing and Carbon Fork AND new Shimano 105
price is $496




Thanks


Chris

Howdy folks,
Well, i'm just starting to look at riding a bike since i rode my BMX
when i was a little one (relatively)  Since I've been 6'9" w/ a 36
inch inseam for a few years, i haven't really thought it was an
option until i started seeing bikes that just looked like they might
fit.  I figure 30 years old was as good a time as any to start
looking.

Now i'm looking for a mountain bike that would fit me well but not be
a high maintenance deal nor cost me an arm and a leg.  I'm really
interested in the 29er bikes that i've seen and i really think i'd
like to try a single speed.  I know that limits me, but i think the
29er bikes tend to over more ground clearance and room for spreading
out components and i like the idea of a single speed bike for
simplicity's sake.

Could anybody help point me in a good direction to research or look
at bikes i should consider.  Is it a completely futile attempt even
now that the bikes are a bit bigger for someone my size to look for a
bike that's not customized and costs lots of $$$?

Thanks for putting together this yahoo group btw.

Take Care,
John J.

I'm 6'3.5" with long-ish legs and, like johnnykrisma, have an XL Giant
OCR 2 (mine's a 2004). It's been a fun bike but I'm starting to
believe that it is too small. I've got the seat post way up and a
Delta extender on the handlebar stem, and the adjustable head set
cranked as vertical as possible for height. Still my handlebars are
about 0.5" BELOW the level of my seat. I've had problems with wobble
going downhill fast (thought I was gonna die from it on Tour de Blast
in '05) and when riding with no hands.

And speaking of wheels, the OCR2 came with low-spoke-count wheels and
I DID have to replace them when I noticed a split in the rim at one of
the spokes. I was about 200# at the time, which I wouldn't have
thought was excessive for modern-day wheels.

Jeff Jansen


--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "johnnykrisma" <johnvenable@...> wrote:
>
> I'd imagine that would depend on a few different things. Lacing
pattern, riding style, riding
> terrain, rims and spokes. I've never had any problems with wheels,
though, like you, in
> recent years, I've been mostly a mountain biker.
>
> My current bike is a Giant with one of those 12 spoke (per side)
single cross lacing
> patterns, not sure what they are called. I was a bit concerned when
I first got it that I'd
> torque the crap out of the thing. I've only got about 400 miles on
the thing, but I do ride it
> to work every day and they still seem pretty true. Obviously not a
huge sample set but
> some empirical help.
>
> John
>
>
> --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@> wrote:
> >
> > In my research it looks like cannondale also.  Are there any
> > problems with wheels????
> >
> > I have non with my mountain bike so far.  But did have a French
> > built road bike where the tork would bend the wheels on an uphill
> > run.
> >
> > Any comments on wheels???
> >
> > --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "johnnykrisma" <johnvenable@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'm 6'6 225 and was looking around for a road bike?  Any
> > suggesstions?
> > > >
> > >
> > > I'm actually the same size as you and currently ride an XL Giant
> > OCR-2. I'm having
> > > problems with getting the thing sized for me and I'm thinking it's
> > just not big enough. I've
> > > got about 7+ inches of seatpost showing as well as swapped out to
> > a 130 stem.
> > >
> > > From what I'm reading the Cannondales work well for us big guys.
> > Large diameter
> > > aluminum tubes I guess keep it stiff while also absorbing some of
> > the vibrations.
> > >
> > > Speaking of Aluminum though, does anyone feel like they could snap
> > their handlebars in
> > > half? I certainly do, when I get cranking the flex in my bars is
> > quite frightening. I don't even
> > > want to think of how that would go down if I snapped them.
> > >
> > > New to this group, so Hello all.
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> >
>

I just spotted this large strong frame on eBay.  Someone might want to
bid on this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250151376246&ssPageName=ADME:\
B:SS:US:1

Rusty - TallRides.com

Chris, welcome. Six nine, no wonder you are frustrated. The industry
doesn't make many off-the-shelf bikes for you.  But you can probably
put something together for $1,000, but my advice is go with used
components (can't get that much for $1,000 new) and experiment. We
tall guys often have more bike fitting problems with long legs, long
arms, more weight, etc.  I bet a 64cm might be on the small size, but
if you can find one to try do it.

You might be more in the 66-67cm size, it depends on your inseam. I
would definitely measure then compare to the standover heights of
frames. There isn't any hard rule that says your inseam needs to be x
inches taller than the frame, but obviously you need to be taller and
not many inches too tall.

Sometimes you can pick up tall frames, or complete bikes, on eBay but
my experience is they are mostly 20 year old steel Japanese-made.
Which might be OK, but not the best components.  What I've done is get
a big steel frame and have it stripped and powdercoated.  Then you can
have someone throw on some decent, but not expensive, components such
as 9-speed Shimano Ultegra.  Ride it a while, learn what works then
you might feel better paying for something custom or just more right
for you...Rusty

if you go to www.tallrides.com on my Links page there are some links
to companies that make taller frames & bikes. you might look at the
Soma Smoothie ES frame. they make them up to 66cm. and check out a
recent post about the 68cm Cycles Valhalla 2XLT.

Good afternoon
I am glad to have found this yahoo group. I am getting frustrated
trying to find a road bike. Here is short version. I am 6'9" and
weight 285 lbs. I want to find a road bike that is not too expensive-
around $1000 - I have been to 4-5 shops and they all give me a
different story. some say I can fit a 64 cm frame - one today I
should have a 66 cm frame that is custom made around $5000.
Does anyone have any recommendations for me about getting the right
bike that I won't tear apart but won't break the bank
Thanks and glad to join the sight
Chris Wheeler

Good afternoon
I am glad to have found this yahoo group.  I am getting frustrated
trying to find a road bike.  Here is short version.  I am 6'9" and
weight 285 lbs.  I want to find a road bike that is not too expensive-
around $1000 - I have been to 4-5 shops and they all give me a
different story.  some say I can fit a 64 cm frame - one today I
should have a 66 cm frame that is custom made around $5000.
Does anyone have any recommendations for me about getting the right
bike that I won't tear apart but won't break the bank
Thanks and glad to join the sight
Chris Wheeler

--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, Fred Nelson <bigkahuna47@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, I was worried about the wheels!
>
>   fred

There are lots of good options for nice wheels for big folks.

The popularity of cyclocross has helped us large people immensely.
Mavic makes several very strong 700C rims available in 36 hole
configurations.  Build these up with nice stainless spokes, either 14g
or 14/15/14 butted spokes, and you have a relatively light wheelset
that is pretty near bomb-proof, especially if you build it up on ATB
hubs (or, if you have more money than God, on a nice set of Phil Wood
hubs).

My main ride at the moment is a bike I designed as the
proof-of-concept frame for the Cycles Valhalla 2XLT.  It is a
"virtual" 68cm road frame.  I had Allan Wanta in California do the
actual frame building for me, to my design:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc152-forbesbb0906.html

The wheels are built with Sun CRT16II 40 hole rims and Sansin tandem
hubs.  They are generally bomb-proof and not too terribly heavy,
although the Suntour cassette body is a bit problematic.  I suppose
that if I were to build up another wheel set for the bike, I would use
the same rims, or some 40h CR18s, with Shimano Deore XT tandem hubs.
Now THAT would be a bomb-proof wheelset!!

Yours,

Forbes Bagatelle-Black
6'6", ~250lb

Hello Fellow Tall Cyclists,

My name is Forbes Bagatelle-Black.  I am 6'6", 250lb (plus or minus
5lb on any given day).

My first "real bike" was a 1979 Fuji Sports 12, with a 27" frame.  It
was a glorious ride, and inspired the lifelong love of bicycles I
carry with me to this day.  I have worked for several bike shops,
built frames at Moots, worked as the lead engineer at Charger Electric
bicycles, and held other bicycle-related jobs.

Recently, the whole "compact geometry" craze has driven me... well...
crazy.  Yes, I have found several old 68cm frames on eBay over the
years, but I sure miss the days when I could walk into just about any
bike shop and ride out on a bike that really fit me.

So, I decided to do something about it.  With help from folks like
Matthew Grim, owner of Kogswell Cycles, and others, I designed a
bicycle frame for people 6'4"- 6'10", which I have named the 2XLT.
The frame is made from high-strength 7005 aluminum with a
specially-designed carbon fiber fork which will work with tires up to
32mm.  The frame is a virtual 68cm frame, measured from center-to-top.
  I say "virtual" because the actual seat tube measurement (C-to-T) is
63cm, and the top tube slopes up 5cm to the headtube, giving riders a
bit more clearance at the seat tube, but sitting them up as they would
be on a 68cm bike.

The top tube is a nice, long 63.5mm, measured horizontally.
Chainstays are 43cm, so there is plenty of clearance for large feet
and panniers.  Frame geometry is classic "Sports Touring," with a 73
degree head angle and a 72 degree seat angle.

More details can be found at:

http://cyclesvalhalla.com/bicyclesandframes/bicyclesfortallfolks.html

I am offering frames and forks at $750 for each set.  I would be happy
to build you up a complete bicycle, if you are interested.  Prices
will vary depending on component choices.  Please contact me at:

fbagatelleblack@...

if you would like more details.

I am looking forward to giving tall cyclists bicycles which will be
comfortable and fun to ride.

Sincerely,

Forbes Bagatelle-Black
Proprietor, Cycles Valhalla

A couple of observations. I have owned, and sold, a lot of big
Cannondales and I think they are great for large riders. I just heard
from one of you that a Cannondale reseller can order frames as large
as 66cm. I'm going to check this out with our local (Portland)
Cannondale bike shop and see what they say.
On wheels I don't have direct experience only weighing 165, but a lot
of people say go with a high spoke count. Like 32 or 36. I have
heard some good results with newer wheels with less spokes but why
push it. Also wheels made specifically for touring are made to handle
much heavier loads, therefore tougher...Rusty

A couple of observations.  I have owned, and sold, a lot of big
Cannondales and I think they are great for large riders. I just heard
from one of you that a Cannondale reseller can order frames as large
as 66cm.  I'm going to check this out with our local (Portland)
Cannondale bike shop and see what they say.
On wheels I don't have direct experience only weighing 165, but a lot
of people say go with a high spoke count.  Like 32 or 36.  I have
heard some good results with newer wheels with less spokes but why
push it.  Also wheels made specifically for touring are made to handle
much heavier loads, therefore tougher...Rusty

I'd imagine that would depend on a few different things. Lacing pattern, riding
style, riding
terrain, rims and spokes. I've never had any problems with wheels, though, like
you, in
recent years, I've been mostly a mountain biker.

My current bike is a Giant with one of those 12 spoke (per side) single cross
lacing
patterns, not sure what they are called. I was a bit concerned when I first got
it that I'd
torque the crap out of the thing. I've only got about 400 miles on the thing,
but I do ride it
to work every day and they still seem pretty true. Obviously not a huge sample
set but
some empirical help.

John


--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@...> wrote:
>
> In my research it looks like cannondale also.  Are there any
> problems with wheels????
>
> I have non with my mountain bike so far.  But did have a French
> built road bike where the tork would bend the wheels on an uphill
> run.
>
> Any comments on wheels???
>
> --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "johnnykrisma" <johnvenable@>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm 6'6 225 and was looking around for a road bike?  Any
> suggesstions?
> > >
> >
> > I'm actually the same size as you and currently ride an XL Giant
> OCR-2. I'm having
> > problems with getting the thing sized for me and I'm thinking it's
> just not big enough. I've
> > got about 7+ inches of seatpost showing as well as swapped out to
> a 130 stem.
> >
> > From what I'm reading the Cannondales work well for us big guys.
> Large diameter
> > aluminum tubes I guess keep it stiff while also absorbing some of
> the vibrations.
> >
> > Speaking of Aluminum though, does anyone feel like they could snap
> their handlebars in
> > half? I certainly do, when I get cranking the flex in my bars is
> quite frightening. I don't even
> > want to think of how that would go down if I snapped them.
> >
> > New to this group, so Hello all.
> >
> > John
> >
>

In my research it looks like cannondale also.  Are there any
problems with wheels????

I have non with my mountain bike so far.  But did have a French
built road bike where the tork would bend the wheels on an uphill
run.

Any comments on wheels???

--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "johnnykrisma" <johnvenable@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm 6'6 225 and was looking around for a road bike?  Any
suggesstions?
> >
>
> I'm actually the same size as you and currently ride an XL Giant
OCR-2. I'm having
> problems with getting the thing sized for me and I'm thinking it's
just not big enough. I've
> got about 7+ inches of seatpost showing as well as swapped out to
a 130 stem.
>
> From what I'm reading the Cannondales work well for us big guys.
Large diameter
> aluminum tubes I guess keep it stiff while also absorbing some of
the vibrations.
>
> Speaking of Aluminum though, does anyone feel like they could snap
their handlebars in
> half? I certainly do, when I get cranking the flex in my bars is
quite frightening. I don't even
> want to think of how that would go down if I snapped them.
>
> New to this group, so Hello all.
>
> John
>

--- In tallrides@yahoogroups.com, "Big Man" <bigkahuna47@...> wrote:
>
> I'm 6'6 225 and was looking around for a road bike?  Any suggesstions?
>

I'm actually the same size as you and currently ride an XL Giant OCR-2. I'm
having
problems with getting the thing sized for me and I'm thinking it's just not big
enough. I've
got about 7+ inches of seatpost showing as well as swapped out to a 130 stem.

From what I'm reading the Cannondales work well for us big guys. Large diameter
aluminum tubes I guess keep it stiff while also absorbing some of the
vibrations.

Speaking of Aluminum though, does anyone feel like they could snap their
handlebars in
half? I certainly do, when I get cranking the flex in my bars is quite
frightening. I don't even
want to think of how that would go down if I snapped them.

New to this group, so Hello all.

John

I'm 6'6 225 and was looking around for a road bike?  Any suggesstions?