I was just thinking that he meant that it hadn't been maintained or cleaned up lately and it needed some "TLC" to bring it up to top shape. But I may be wrong.

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

---

From: Geoff Steele <gstee1_4him@...>

Sender: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 14:31:43 -0400

To: <ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com>

ReplyTo: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ryanownersclub] going price for a duplex tandem?

 

Yup, I understand the acronym.  I'm just uncertain what it might mean in context for this particular bike.  Are there some things that are problematical for this unit that encouraged the seller to make this statement ?
 
Geoff
 

---

To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
From: haynestownsend@...
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 18:25:10 +0000
Subject: Re: [ryanownersclub] going price for a duplex tandem?

 

TLC means tender loving care.

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

---

From: Geoff Steele <gstee1_4him@...>

Sender: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 12:57:45 -0400

To: <ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com>

ReplyTo: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [ryanownersclub] going price for a duplex tandem?

 

Dick can weigh in here for clarity and facts. 
 
If the bike's been equipped with S&S couplers, that would normally add (new) somewhere around $600 - $800 for the conversion to add them, depending on who does the work.  Wouldn't know what "TLC" might mean in this case. 
 
I bought my Duplex (used) in PA about 8 years ago. Rode it maybe 500 miles in several events and sold it to someone craving a tandem recumbent in the DC area.  It was "pristine" -- in excellent shape.  I would say the $1,500 asking price (with couplers) is probably "fair", depending on what "TLC" means.  Because the frame is quite long, be sure to ask for pictures (if you can't see the bike personally).  Look for and ask about any possible frame rust, or any accidents that might have involved frame damage (warping, bending, etc.).  Also carefully check the front fork, to be sure it can accept larger tire widths, if desired.  Consider possible fork replacement with a shock strut unit.
 
I'm unsure if Dick actually ever "sold" Ryan Recumbent Cycles to Longbikes.  He told me that Longbikes had a license agreement with him just to build the bikes.  Greg Peek redesigned both the Vanguard and the Duplex, making design changes in the bottom bracket height; seat geometry (for added comfort and quick adjustability), and drop out configurations (to allow quick wheel diameter changes, etc.).  Greg renamed these designs the "Slipstream" and "Gulfstream", respectively, and began to sell them, which made the need to continue production for Dick a moot point (i.e. they were now in direct competition).  The Gulfstream, I believe, comes 'standard' with S&S couplers, too.  I believe Dick still owns (and he can confirm) "Ryan Recumbent Cycles" as a company, though he is not actively building bikes now.
 
Since neither the Vanguard, nor Duplex designs had been patented (and protected) by Dick, the Longbikes mods were "legal".  I don't know if Greg has applied for and received patents on the re-designs, but in view of the cost of the patent process versus the relatively limited number of potential production runs for both types of bikes, I would doubt it.
 
Geoff Steele
Huntersville, NC
(704) 875-8876
 
 

---

To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
From: thelimsndavis@...
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 16:22:07 +0000
Subject: [ryanownersclub] going price for a duplex tandem?

 

I am looking at a 2000 Ryan Duplex Tandem with couplers. What is the going price? They say it needs TLC and is selling for $1500. When did Ryan sell the company to Longbikes?

I'm riding a Longbikes Slipstream, and I love it.  There is one small
detail that is bothering me, however, although it is actually of my
own making.  Annoyed at getting grease on my leg every now and then
from that long chain, I put on one of those teflon chain cover tubes
from Hostel Shoppe (
http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1019853379
), with the end hooked around the metal boss that supports the upper
idler wheel (see attached image).  It works great, and I can rub my
leg against that side of the bike and not get any grease on it
whatsoever (the lower, return side of the chain does not seem to be a
problem in that regard).

That would be the end of the story, except I started getting annoying
noises from the tube every now and then, and only after I had noticed
some sort of rubber/polymer peel out of the idler groove.  What I
finally tracked it down to was vibration of the chain passing around
the idler, which is now a relatively hard surface without that rubber
padding.  In certain gears, and under high chain tension, the chain
vibrates up and down enough to hit both edges of the tube and create
the noise.

So I cut a couple of pieces of old inner tube and stretched them over
the idler so they fit down in the idler wheel groove, and that fixed
the vibration/noise problem.  For awhile.  One day I was pedaling
merrily along when suddenly the crank seemed to lock.  After finding
nothing wrong anywhere in the drivetrain, I finally realized that one
of my inner tube sections had worn enough to break, been carried to
the entrance of the tube, and been wedged there, making the chain
nearly impossible to move.  I thought that was likely a freak
occurrence, but after replacing the inner tube sections several times
as they wore out, I have had the problem again.

So, right now none of my choices are entirely satisfactory:

1. remove the tube, and get grease on my leg/trousers from time to time
2. leave the tube on, and replace the inner tube sections every few
hundred miles - being prepared to have the crank lock occasionally
3. put up with the noise when going up hills and other cases where
there is high chain tension

A new idler seems to be satisfactory, and the rubber in the idler
wheel lasted a lot longer than my inner tube sections - but still only
for a couple of thousand miles at most - far too often to have to keep
replacing idler wheels.  I looked at the Terracycle idler kit (
http://www.terracycle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Produc\
t_Code=IDKLongbikesSlipstream&Category_Code=IdlersALL
) and was prepared to buy one, until I came across a lengthy and very
negative review (see part way down this page:
http://ebent.wordpress.com/page/9/?archives-list&archives-type=months
).

Any ideas or suggestions?  An idler wheel from a different company?
Something more durable than inner tube rubber to line the idler
groove?

Thanks,

Richard Cobb
Blacksburg, VA

The idler spins freely enough.  I thought about removing the idler,
but sighting along the chain line on the Slipstream tells me that I
would be sawing through the handlebar without the idler bending the
path.

I think it is the hard material of the idler that is causing the
bouncing vibration as each link passes over it.

Richard

On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 11:45 AM, <tssipher@...> wrote:
>
>
> When I switched from Vanguard to Slipstream, the used model I bought had inner
tube bands on the drive side idler as well, but it had been done more becuase
the prior owner hadn't lubricated regulary and the idler had a flat spot from
the chain grinding on it.
>
> I don't have a chain tube on mine, I just wear the oil mark tattoo in warmer
weather and wear black wind tights as the top layer as we move into winter.
>
> I switched to the Terracycle idler kit (but the lower cost one than the one
shown in the ebent review), and because the drive side has teeth, you can be
sure it won't wear out, but I can't tell you about the noise because I listen to
the radio when I ride so I don't hear that kind of minor noise, although I do a
couple maintenance checks per year to listen for noises and the idler noise has
never stood out for me.
>
> The return side idler for Terracycle comes with a harder plastic ring
installed for the contact surface, so I expect you could also use a return side
idler on your drive side and then that harder material would probably wear out
less often.  In this case the Terracycle idler would allow you to place a much
harder material in there for the ring because the idler is split and you can
take the halves off to change the inner ring instead of having to stretch it
over the edges of the stock idler.
>
> In all cases, I think the primary point is to regularly clean and lube the
idler bearing and axle shaft tube so the darn thing spins easily.  I find the
drive side Terracycle idler spins on the axle tube as much or more than it spins
on the bearing, because the axle tube is a slip fit that enables the idler to
shift right to left and back depending on which gear you're in.
>
> I would also propose you think about just disposing of all the idlers, they
don't really do much unless you're hitting a lot of speed bumps or riding real
cobbles in Europe.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: REC <rec@...>
> To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 14:04:12 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: [ryanownersclub] Idler question [1 Attachment]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm riding a Longbikes Slipstream, and I love it.  There is one small
>
>
> detail that is bothering me, however, although it is actually of my
>
>
> own making.  Annoyed at getting grease on my leg every now and then
>
>
> from that long chain, I put on one of those teflon chain cover tubes
>
>
> from Hostel Shoppe (
> http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1019853379
>
>
> ), with the end hooked around the metal boss that supports the upper
>
>
> idler wheel (see attached image).  It works great, and I can rub my
>
>
> leg against that side of the bike and not get any grease on it
>
>
> whatsoever (the lower, return side of the chain does not seem to be a
>
>
> problem in that regard).
>
>
>
> That would be the end of the story, except I started getting annoying
>
>
> noises from the tube every now and then, and only after I had noticed
>
>
> some sort of rubber/polymer peel out of the idler groove.  What I
>
>
> finally tracked it down to was vibration of the chain passing around
>
>
> the idler, which is now a relatively hard surface without that rubber
>
>
> padding.  In certain gears, and under high chain tension, the chain
>
>
> vibrates up and down enough to hit both edges of the tube and create
>
>
> the noise.
>
>
>
> So I cut a couple of pieces of old inner tube and stretched them over
>
>
> the idler so they fit down in the idler wheel groove, and that fixed
>
>
> the vibration/noise problem.  For awhile.  One day I was pedaling
>
>
> merrily along when suddenly the crank seemed to lock.  After finding
>
>
> nothing wrong anywhere in the drivetrain, I finally realized that one
>
>
> of my inner tube sections had worn enough to break, been carried to
>
>
> the entrance of the tube, and been wedged there, making the chain
>
>
> nearly impossible to move.  I thought that was likely a freak
>
>
> occurrence, but after replacing the inner tube sections several times
>
>
> as they wore out, I have had the problem again.
>
>
>
> So, right now none of my choices are entirely satisfactory:
>
>
>
> 1. remove the tube, and get grease on my leg/trousers from time to time
>
>
> 2. leave the tube on, and replace the inner tube sections every few
>
>
> hundred miles - being prepared to have the crank lock occasionally
>
>
> 3. put up with the noise when going up hills and other cases where
>
>
> there is high chain tension
>
>
>
> A new idler seems to be satisfactory, and the rubber in the idler
>
>
> wheel lasted a lot longer than my inner tube sections - but still only
>
>
> for a couple of thousand miles at most - far too often to have to keep
>
>
> replacing idler wheels.  I looked at the Terracycle idler kit (
>
http://www.terracycle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Produc\
t_Code=IDKLongbikesSlipstream&Category_Code=IdlersALL
>
>
> ) and was prepared to buy one, until I came across a lengthy and very
>
>
> negative review (see part way down this page:
> http://ebent.wordpress.com/page/9/?archives-list&archives-type=months
>
>
> ).
>
>
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?  An idler wheel from a different company?
>
>
> Something more durable than inner tube rubber to line the idler
>
>
> groove?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Richard Cobb
>
>
> Blacksburg, VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I had to sell my Vanguard out of necessity, and would rather not get any mail
from the owner's group.  Thank you.

This sounds very interesting.  If I were to do this with a brand new
chain, would there be any special prep needed (such as a solvent to
remove the existing oil)?

Thanks,

Richard

On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 11:08 AM, Paul Burke <paul@...> wrote:
>
>
> I too have been using this method of lubricating my chains since the
mid-1980’s.  Before going for the wax treatment I would be happy if I got 1200
miles out of a chain.  When replacing the chain, I would also have to replace a
couple of cogs.  Now I get 7500 miles or so from a chain.  I still have to
replace a cog or two, but a lot less frequently.
>
>
>
> If you tour, sometimes you will find a motel operator who is reluctant to
allow you to take your bike into the room.  You wipe your hand over the chain
and show him your open palm.  That usually gets you in for the night.
>
>
>
> Paul Burke
>
> Santa Cruz, CA
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Reedchrisj@...
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 5:59 AM
> To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [ryanownersclub] Idler Question
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard,
>
>
>
> You could lubricate your chain with melted paraffin wax and never have a
grease mark on your leg again or a noisy tube covering the chain.  I remove my
bicycle chains when they start to make squeaking noises, coil them and put them
in a large can on top of cold paraffin wax.  I then set the can in a pot of
water on top of a hot plate outdoors and turn on the heat.  In twenty or thirty
minutes the paraffin has melted and the chain sunk to the bottom where it is
coated by the wax.  I then remove the chain from the hot wax and hang the chain
up to cool for a few minutes before reinstalling the chain on the bike.  Once
the paraffin wax has cooled it will leave no residue on your hand or cloths when
you rub against the chain.  You can use the same paraffin wax that is sold for
canning purposes as a chain lubricant and the paraffin can be reused many
times.  The frequency of lubricating a chain with paraffin wax depends on how
often you ride in the rain and how many miles you put on the bike, but my bikes
typically need a chain lubrication with paraffin wax about once a year.  I have
been lubricating bicycle chains with paraffin for decades and would never go
back to putting oil on chains.  Note that the first time you put paraffin on a
chain you will have to clean all the oil and dirt off the chain prior to the
paraffin bath.
>
>
>
> Christopher Reed
>
> Arlington, VA
>
>

Even with a new chain, it’s a good idea to soak it in paint thinner to
remove the factory lube.  If you don't, the lube would mix with the wax; I
have no idea how that might work out. You only need to clean the chain once
in its life because once it is waxed, it no longer attracts enough dirt to
merit cleaning before re-waxing.

I keep two chains for my bike.  That way, I don't have to fret about waxing
my chain when needed.  I can just change them out and heat the wax when I
have the time.  Also, both chains stretch about the same, making the need to
change out worn cogs half as necessary.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of REC
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 3:37 PM
To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [ryanownersclub] Idler Question

This sounds very interesting.  If I were to do this with a brand new
chain, would there be any special prep needed (such as a solvent to
remove the existing oil)?

Thanks,

Richard

On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 11:08 AM, Paul Burke <paul@...> wrote:
>
>
> I too have been using this method of lubricating my chains since the
mid-1980’s.  Before going for the wax treatment I would be happy if I got
1200 miles out of a chain.  When replacing the chain, I would also have to
replace a couple of cogs.  Now I get 7500 miles or so from a chain.  I still
have to replace a cog or two, but a lot less frequently.
>
>
>
> If you tour, sometimes you will find a motel operator who is reluctant to
allow you to take your bike into the room.  You wipe your hand over the
chain and show him your open palm.  That usually gets you in for the night.
>
>
>
> Paul Burke
>
> Santa Cruz, CA
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Reedchrisj@...
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 5:59 AM
> To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [ryanownersclub] Idler Question
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard,
>
>
>
> You could lubricate your chain with melted paraffin wax and never have a
grease mark on your leg again or a noisy tube covering the chain.  I remove
my bicycle chains when they start to make squeaking noises, coil them and
put them in a large can on top of cold paraffin wax.  I then set the can in
a pot of water on top of a hot plate outdoors and turn on the heat.  In
twenty or thirty minutes the paraffin has melted and the chain sunk to the
bottom where it is coated by the wax.  I then remove the chain from the hot
wax and hang the chain up to cool for a few minutes before reinstalling the
chain on the bike.  Once the paraffin wax has cooled it will leave no
residue on your hand or cloths when you rub against the chain.  You can use
the same paraffin wax that is sold for canning purposes as a chain lubricant
and the paraffin can be reused many times.  The frequency of lubricating a
chain with paraffin wax depends on how often you ride in the rain and how
many miles you put on the bike, but my bikes typically need a chain
lubrication with paraffin wax about once a year.  I have been lubricating
bicycle chains with paraffin for decades and would never go back to putting
oil on chains.  Note that the first time you put paraffin on a chain you
will have to clean all the oil and dirt off the chain prior to the paraffin
bath.
>
>
>
> Christopher Reed
>
> Arlington, VA
>
>


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

I hope this it is not sacrilege to post about a post-Ryan vanguard... but I
recently acquired a 1999 Longbikes Vanguard and it is fantastic. It is my first
real adventure into 'bents and it was love at first ride!

The thing of it is...
I am having a devil of a time finding information about the Longbikes vanguard
-- Ryan Vanguard is relatively easy to find, but I do not fully understand and
cannot find information about how the design was changed when it was acquired by
Longbikes – therefore I do not know how similar or different my bike is from the
majority on this site.

I need some help with the steering linkage, insofar as I began dismantling
things so I could scoot the seat back to an appropriate length (I was cramped
how the bike was originally setup) and quickly realized that the steering rod
was a fixed length.  I will try to post some pictures of my bikes' USS apparatus
in the photo album if I can.

I don't know if or how my bike has been tinkered with, but as of now, the
steering rod is not adjustable.  I am betting that originally the steering arm
was adjustable, I just am missing the pieces etc. to make that again the case. 
I can tell from pictures of the Ryan's that there was an element of
adjustability.  I also have read a few posts on the board about replacement rods
from Bicycleman and Longbikes, but need to figure out how it is supposed to be
on my bike.

If anyone has ideas where I might be able to get parts needed, or can offer
pictures or reference a guide I would be VERY appreciative.  I found the picture
album with the Ryan steering linkage, but it is significantly different than my
bike where it connects underneath the seat clamp wing screw thingys (see my
picture album for an idea what I am trying to say – new to `bent and bicycles in
general, so terminology is not my thing!).  I am unsure, as I said, if that is a
difference between the Longbikes and Ryan versions of the vanguard, or if it is
juryrigging unique to my bike.

Even in super-cramped mode I've logged about 150miles in the last month and LOVE
it!  Thanks for any help, and maybe I'll run across some of those Ryan owners
near Louisville Ky!
Thanks again, excited to be an owner.
Kevin Kane

1. Posted picture of the part in question - Photo 3 in my photo album.  And....

2. I just found the search function of the message board and apologize for
asking about things I could have saerched for, oye!







--- In ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "kpkane01" <kpkane01@...> wrote:
>
> I hope this it is not sacrilege to post about a post-Ryan vanguard... but I
recently acquired a 1999 Longbikes Vanguard and it is fantastic. It is my first
real adventure into 'bents and it was love at first ride!
>
> The thing of it is...
> I am having a devil of a time finding information about the Longbikes vanguard
-- Ryan Vanguard is relatively easy to find, but I do not fully understand and
cannot find information about how the design was changed when it was acquired by
Longbikes – therefore I do not know how similar or different my bike is from the
majority on this site.
>
> I need some help with the steering linkage, insofar as I began dismantling
things so I could scoot the seat back to an appropriate length (I was cramped
how the bike was originally setup) and quickly realized that the steering rod
was a fixed length.  I will try to post some pictures of my bikes' USS apparatus
in the photo album if I can.
>
> I don't know if or how my bike has been tinkered with, but as of now, the
steering rod is not adjustable.  I am betting that originally the steering arm
was adjustable, I just am missing the pieces etc. to make that again the case. 
I can tell from pictures of the Ryan's that there was an element of
adjustability.  I also have read a few posts on the board about replacement rods
from Bicycleman and Longbikes, but need to figure out how it is supposed to be
on my bike.
>
> If anyone has ideas where I might be able to get parts needed, or can offer
pictures or reference a guide I would be VERY appreciative.  I found the picture
album with the Ryan steering linkage, but it is significantly different than my
bike where it connects underneath the seat clamp wing screw thingys (see my
picture album for an idea what I am trying to say – new to `bent and bicycles in
general, so terminology is not my thing!).  I am unsure, as I said, if that is a
difference between the Longbikes and Ryan versions of the vanguard, or if it is
juryrigging unique to my bike.
>
> Even in super-cramped mode I've logged about 150miles in the last month and
LOVE it!  Thanks for any help, and maybe I'll run across some of those Ryan
owners near Louisville Ky!
> Thanks again, excited to be an owner.
> Kevin Kane
>

I have a Longbikes Vanguard, which I purchased new in 1999 when my
Ryan Vanguard was stolen.  The linkage is adjustable, but I don't
remember exactly how, since I've not adjusted it since 1999---I could
look at it tomorrow.  The biggest difference in design between the
Ryan and the Longbikes is in the handlebars, though the linkage for
the steering is also slightly different.

I think that you can still get replacement steering rods from Longbikes.
Call Greg Peak---the phone number is on the web page:
	 http://www.longbikes.com/2/CompanyInfo/Contact.html

Kevin Karplus

Not sure why it was not working.  Alternate is kpkane01@....      Thanks
much for the help.

Kevin
417 894 8136

--- In ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com, Geoff Steele <gstee1_4him@...> wrote:
>
>
> Kevin:
>
> I just sent you an email and it was rejected as "undeliverable" to: 
kpkane01@...  Is this address correct, or do you have a different one ?  You
might also post your phone number and I can give you a call.
>
> Geoff Steele
> Huntersville, NC
> (704) 875-8876
>
>
>
> To: ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com
> From: kpkane01@...
> Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 04:15:08 +0000
> Subject: [ryanownersclub] "New" 1999 Longbikes Vanguard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I hope this it is not sacrilege to post about a post-Ryan vanguard... but I
recently acquired a 1999 Longbikes Vanguard and it is fantastic. It is my first
real adventure into 'bents and it was love at first ride!
>
> The thing of it is...
> I am having a devil of a time finding information about the Longbikes vanguard
-- Ryan Vanguard is relatively easy to find, but I do not fully understand and
cannot find information about how the design was changed when it was acquired by
Longbikes – therefore I do not know how similar or different my bike is from the
majority on this site.
>
> I need some help with the steering linkage, insofar as I began dismantling
things so I could scoot the seat back to an appropriate length (I was cramped
how the bike was originally setup) and quickly realized that the steering rod
was a fixed length. I will try to post some pictures of my bikes' USS apparatus
in the photo album if I can.
>
> I don't know if or how my bike has been tinkered with, but as of now, the
steering rod is not adjustable. I am betting that originally the steering arm
was adjustable, I just am missing the pieces etc. to make that again the case. I
can tell from pictures of the Ryan's that there was an element of adjustability.
I also have read a few posts on the board about replacement rods from Bicycleman
and Longbikes, but need to figure out how it is supposed to be on my bike.
>
> If anyone has ideas where I might be able to get parts needed, or can offer
pictures or reference a guide I would be VERY appreciative. I found the picture
album with the Ryan steering linkage, but it is significantly different than my
bike where it connects underneath the seat clamp wing screw thingys (see my
picture album for an idea what I am trying to say – new to `bent and bicycles in
general, so terminology is not my thing!). I am unsure, as I said, if that is a
difference between the Longbikes and Ryan versions of the vanguard, or if it is
juryrigging unique to my bike.
>
> Even in super-cramped mode I've logged about 150miles in the last month and
LOVE it! Thanks for any help, and maybe I'll run across some of those Ryan
owners near Louisville Ky!
> Thanks again, excited to be an owner.
> Kevin Kane
>

Gipiemme is an Italian parts manufacturer, making wheels, rims,
handlebars, and accessories.  I don't think that they ever made a
recumbent, so the ad Robert saw is probably just telling you about the
parts, not the frame.

Kevin Karplus

The bike on ebay was, I believe, built by a short lived company from Texas. If I remember correctly they also had a child's version of the bike. I saw it at the Interbike show in Long Beach Ca. sometime in the early 90s. Don't remember the name.

Dick Ryan

Look at the rear wheel attachement points. The framework there at the triangle
has a little opening, quite unlike a Vanguard. Maybe Dick Ryan knows something
about this.

Bob

--- In ryanownersclub@yahoogroups.com, Geoff Steele <gstee1_4him@...> wrote:
>
>
> Yup....the frame itself looks pure Ryan from the pic.  Maybe someone got one
used and had it exported to Italy, where it was re-rigged with Italian parts to
replace original equipment SunTour ?
>
> Geoff

I have been trying to get this bent for three months now, I thought the deal
fell through when owner #3 of the Vanguard decided to go another direction on hs
latest project. Then last week I received an email from owner saying he changed
hiis plans if I was still willing to do our deal of swapping my Burley Canto
with his Vanguard. It took me abt 2 sec. to start sending him my reply. Heck yes
I'm ready to swap.

The seat fabric has been replaced with a new one plus steering bearing on front
of stearing rod replaced, casette and chain replaced along with the casette
thumb shifter so all the parts that wear the most through the years taken care
of.

I received paper trail showing the Vanguard to be #0392 and I am now only the
4th owner.

Needless to say I am a happy camper this morning. I posted to the photo section
9 shots in new album Joe's Vanguard.

 

I have been trying to get this bent for three months now, I thought the deal fell through when owner #3 of the Vanguard decided to go another direction on hs latest project. Then last week I received an email from owner saying he changed hiis plans if I was still willing to do our deal of swapping my Burley Canto with his Vanguard. It took me abt 2 sec. to start sending him my reply. Heck yes I'm ready to swap.

The seat fabric has been replaced with a new one plus steering bearing on front of stearing rod replaced, casette and chain replaced along with the casette thumb shifter so all the parts that wear the most through the years taken care of.

I received paper trail showing the Vanguard to be #0392 and I am now only the 4th owner.

Needless to say I am a happy camper this morning. I posted to the photo section 9 shots in new album Joe's Vanguard.