I'm a little upset I didn't get an invite to to all the other
orgies!!! (lol)
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "monicahotazz1"
<monicahotazz1@y...> wrote:
> hey, i'll be having another big orgy party in about 3 weeks, and
wanted to send out another invitation to see who wants to come to
this one.
>
> if you were at the last one, you already know how awesome it was,
and you're invited again. it's at the same place, and there will be
even more single girls there this time! just remember...clothing
isn't even an option! ;-)
>
> come and RSVP at this link,
>
> http://www.Here.is/TheSexClub
>
> just leave me a message on my profile if you want to come, and i'll
do the rest.
>
> See ya there!
hey, i'll be having another big orgy party in about 3 weeks, and wanted to send
out another invitation to see who wants to come to this one.
if you were at the last one, you already know how awesome it was, and you're
invited again. it's at the same place, and there will be even more single girls
there this time! just remember...clothing isn't even an option! ;-)
come and RSVP at this link,
http://www.Here.is/TheSexClub
just leave me a message on my profile if you want to come, and i'll do the rest.
See ya there!
Are you planning to drag asphalt or ice/snow, either way yer not
realy gonna have problems with breaking loose, theres a lot of track
(tion) there.
Sounds awfully cool, show us pics when you get around to building it.
I'll confer with Pete here. The axle may be seized to the inner bearing race and
the bend is not helping matters any. Usually there is a space in the bottom of
the bearing mount where you can slide the entire axle with bearing out the
bottom. Undo the stamped steel bearing retainer and get the axle with bearing
attached out of the kart.
Now you may be able to use a hydraulic jack or press to free the bearing. If
not, junk it and buy a new axle and bearing.
Eldon.
bigpeterhead@... wrote:
if the axle was bent to the outside of the bearing, it probably will not come
of no matter how hard you hit it. the axle now has a curve in it that the
bearing will not travel around. you may be able to go the opposite way with it.
but if you have been hitting it with any amount of force, it already may be
junk. and chances of getting the axle straight are not that good, either.
pete
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
if the axle was bent to the outside of the bearing, it probably will not come
of no matter how hard you hit it. the axle now has a curve in it that the
bearing will not travel around. you may be able to go the opposite way with it.
but if you have been hitting it with any amount of force, it already may be
junk. and chances of getting the axle straight are not that good, either.
pete
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
i'm trying to get the axle off my go kart. I bent it last winter and
i'm trying to get it ready to sell. One of my dads friends said that
the can strighten it so i wouldn't have to buy a new one. the
problem i'm having is getting the right side bearing off i sprayed wd-
40 on them and the left side broke free but the right side just won't
move i hit i with a sludge hammer for about 10 miniutes and it just
won't move. so i was hopeing you guys could help me out on what to
do. and i don't want to wreck the axle or bearing.
thanks
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> Ok I see. I figured it would be something like that. I am curious
> how much practice it takes to get use to shifting on the left. My
> clutch is hydraulic and I imagine I will need to provide a long
hose
> to accomodate the movement.
>
> Randy
If your clutch is hydraulic the simplest way out is to operate it
with a foot pedal using a master cylinder from a car.If you decide to
go that route mail me i have a drawing for making up a pedal box that
you can mount the master cylinder to. the_wizard6@...
i shift mine on the right. you can use a morse push/pull cable for linkage.
they are available through mc master-carr, any many other sources. most boats
use this type if cable for steering. they can run indirectly from one point to
another, sometimes making it easier than a rod. personal watercraft is another
place where this type of linkage is commonly used. the clutch will come to
you in a short time. and for most upshifts and downshifts, you can skip the
clutch altogether. check out this site for a ton of great info <A
HREF="http://home.iprimus.com.au/rorty/">rorty racing</A>.
pete
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ok I see. I figured it would be something like that. I am curious
how much practice it takes to get use to shifting on the left. My
clutch is hydraulic and I imagine I will need to provide a long hose
to accomodate the movement.
Randy
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "twinpipe2002"
<twinpipe2002@y...> wrote:
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> > I would like to use an engine for my kart that has a gearbox (6
> > Speed) I do not have th room on the floor for a foot clutch so I
> > figure I can use a hand clutch from the bike. I am also trying
to
> > find a way to combine the same location/grip for a shifter all
in
> > one. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> You can use the clutch lever that comes with the bike engine and
> mount it on a gear change lever made from a piece of tubing.Make
the
> tube so it pivots somewhere on the frame and connect a linkage
from
> the end of it to the bikes shift lever look in the photo section
> under shift lever for a pic.
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> I would like to use an engine for my kart that has a gearbox (6
> Speed) I do not have th room on the floor for a foot clutch so I
> figure I can use a hand clutch from the bike. I am also trying to
> find a way to combine the same location/grip for a shifter all in
> one. Does anyone have any suggestions?
You can use the clutch lever that comes with the bike engine and
mount it on a gear change lever made from a piece of tubing.Make the
tube so it pivots somewhere on the frame and connect a linkage from
the end of it to the bikes shift lever look in the photo section
under shift lever for a pic.
Ted,
traditionally the angle can be anywhere from 5 to 9 degrees and
sometimes more depending on the length of the arms and wether they
are equal. Not to mention the anticipated shock travel. When you
pitch the spindle be sure to compensate for it in the tierod arm.
Randy
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "nutnbolt2002"
<nutnbolt2002@y...> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what castor I should be using in my front end?
I
> have 5 deg. now but I'm not sure if in need more?...Ted
I would like to use an engine for my kart that has a gearbox (6
Speed) I do not have th room on the floor for a foot clutch so I
figure I can use a hand clutch from the bike. I am also trying to
find a way to combine the same location/grip for a shifter all in
one. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I am ready to mount the engine but need help in this area.
Thanks,
Randy
Just another quick thought:
using a twin where the torque pulses are "lumpier" you are more
likely to break traction than with a four (of the same overall out
put,)if you put "tyres" on that are big enough to compensate on the
line you lose power pushing them along once the thing is revved out.
Got to be Worth it for the sound though!
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, snodgrass88 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
>
> Yes why not.
> There was an episode of scrapheap challenge/or junkyard wars where
> they built a bike engined rail tarmac dragster with gocart front
> wheels and golfkart rears. I think it thrashed the V8 competition
in
> standard trim ,once they put the airbox back on.It was some kind of
> jap 4.
> I must admit If I had that motor I would build a stubby little
> HouseBrushpainted hardtail rat bike chop. and blast about having
fun
> and p88ing off the {more stuckup} members of the Ducati owners club.
> Most of them are ok ,but there are always the odd ones who take it
> all far too seriously.
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, bigpeterhead@a... wrote:
> > GO FOR IT!!! and tell us about it. although i would go for
asphalt
> drags.
> > there are very sticky compounds for the tracks. it would be like
a
> slingshot.
> > just my thoughts.
> >
> > pete
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes why not.
There was an episode of scrapheap challenge/or junkyard wars where
they built a bike engined rail tarmac dragster with gocart front
wheels and golfkart rears. I think it thrashed the V8 competition in
standard trim ,once they put the airbox back on.It was some kind of
jap 4.
I must admit If I had that motor I would build a stubby little
HouseBrushpainted hardtail rat bike chop. and blast about having fun
and p88ing off the {more stuckup} members of the Ducati owners club.
Most of them are ok ,but there are always the odd ones who take it
all far too seriously.
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, bigpeterhead@a... wrote:
> GO FOR IT!!! and tell us about it. although i would go for asphalt
drags.
> there are very sticky compounds for the tracks. it would be like a
slingshot.
> just my thoughts.
>
> pete
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
GO FOR IT!!! and tell us about it. although i would go for asphalt drags.
there are very sticky compounds for the tracks. it would be like a slingshot.
just my thoughts.
pete
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
been real boring around here lately and I have been thinking of
buidling another kart or something, well I got this crazy ideal to
make a custom crotchrocket sled. It will have a tunnel and rear
suspension from my ols ski-doo with a tubular frame going from front
to back, and it will be about 9 feet long, and LOW almost touching
the ground. purpose drag racing. It will be standard shift and 4
stroke. any opinions on this and things to do to it?? I know this is
a kart group but you guys seem really smart and should have some
opinions. my donor motor currently is believe it or not a 2001
Ducati 748cc 6 speed. liquid cooled big bore twin for light wieght.
should be pretty fast. and I plan to run it with a 1 1/4 track
paddle and about 500 studs to stick it to the ground. anybody think
this is a crazy but cool idea?
Personally speaking...."This ain't the place for your spam posts!"
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "monicahotazz1"
<monicahotazz1@y...> wrote:
> i just read that Yahoo is going to be cleaning up their Groups by
getting read of all of the groups that have anything to do with porn,
sex, dating, or anything that "they" think is offensive. what the
hell?
>
> there IS a place that everybody is going to though so that we all
still exchange emails, chat, and send pics. everybody from Yahoo
seems to be going there, so it's cool.
>
> it's free, and the link is, http://www.CuteGirl.at/TheSexClub
>
> Have Fun.
Jake, Like you Bruce at Badland buggies is also a first time
builder. You already have something in comon with him. He has
learned alot on this page as will you.
He has a parts list.
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "hochss2003"
<hochss2003@y...> wrote:
> i need help with my kart I'm a first time builder and not quite
sure
> on the angles that i need and how to make rear a arm assembly work
i
> need a part list for what i need
>
> thank you
> jake
i need help with my kart I'm a first time builder and not quite sure
on the angles that i need and how to make rear a arm assembly work i
need a part list for what i need
thank you
jake
i just read that Yahoo is going to be cleaning up their Groups by getting read
of all of the groups that have anything to do with porn, sex, dating, or
anything that "they" think is offensive. what the hell?
there IS a place that everybody is going to though so that we all still exchange
emails, chat, and send pics. everybody from Yahoo seems to be going there, so
it's cool.
it's free, and the link is, http://www.CuteGirl.at/TheSexClub
Have Fun.
I saw an "off road" go kart at a TSC store a few years ago and never
seen one like it since. It was made like a Yerfdog in that the whole
rear frame, engine and all, pivoted on the front frame. The big
difference was there was one pivot point in the center on a ball
and socket similar to Heim rod ends. This allowed it to pivot in
two planes. It could pivot up and down and rock side to side. It
had a panhard bar to keep the rear frame inline with the front frame
and two shocks. Anyone know who makes these? I am thinking of making
something similar on the back of a kart for the grand kids. I'd like
to see that set up again but never have seen one of those karts again.
You can buy a weld on linkage bracket with the ball for about $10
at TSC Stores. You can get them for a 7/8" or 1 1/8" pin. It would
be a cheap set up but the grandkids would think it's neet to have
the suspension....
Randy,
Guess I was mistaken in my understanding of your post about
welding? I thought you meant welding the brake drum and drive
sprocket to the axle to avoid using setscrews!
Thanks for clarifying, I think.
Taztoo
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> Taz,
>
> I was working the new axle into the trailing arm and as I set each
> componenton on the axle I felt that using the tried and true
> bushings (pipe over the axle) between each component will lock the
> entire assembly after the wheels are bolted on. So in summation I
> think welding won't be neccesary not to mention as everyone has
> posted the obvious pending bearing change.
>
> Thanks as always,
> Randy
>
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Francis"
> <mcmahan55@y...> wrote:
> > Hey Randy,
> > Imagine seeing you over here!
> > I can see a couple of potential probs with your suggestion.
> > 1) Unless you are a trained welder I could see probs with
> overheating
> > and weakening the axle.
> > 2) Unless you are using bolt-on sprockets and brake disc's I see
a
> > prob with replacing these parts if they are welded. You could
take
> a
> > hardened drillbit and "dimple" the axle where the setscrews will
> be?
> > Hope I haven't overstepped my boundaries with my recent posts!
> I
> > now look at all the potentials before making changes and there
are
> > still some surprises. You know what I have and the changes I've
> made
> > along with the probs I have created for myself.
> > HAPPY TRAILS. I hope Roy and Dale are watching over all of us!
> > Taztoo
> >
> > --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...>
> wrote:
> > > Has anyone welded the sprocket hub and brake hubs to the axle
> > rather
> > > than just relying on the set screws? If so any downside or
> upside?
> > >
> > > Randy
Bearings that press in need a press fit with only .001"-.002"
interference. Pretty hard to do without some good machining.
The other option is to slot the tube they mount in and clamp
the O.D. like the trailing arm on a three wheeler and some
four wheelers.
Jason wrote:
>
> dropping the axle wasn't my problem :) it was replacing axle
> bearing's that were inboard of the sprocket and brake hubs.. my
> soultion was to not weld them on and revisit it all if i ever had
> problems with shearing :)
> i will check out your're bearing plate though. i don't like the ones
> i have, as they're not square.. what i really want do do is figure
> out how to mount a bearing w/o a flange.. i guess they can just be
> pressed if it's a snug fit? not really sure..
>
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "randy0288" <randy028@h...>
> wrote:
> > It is best to slot your bearing plates when using round axle bar
> when
> > possible. I have seen sprocket hubs and brake hubs seize up on
> axles
> > even with set screws. I have posted a pick in the photos on a
> bearing
> > plate. Change the deminsions to match your bearing and axle. Randy C
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "Jason"
> <talk_with_jason@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > ok - the axle is dropped. but if both ends are capped off with
> > welded
> > > on sprocket and brake hubs, the bearings still can't be removed
> > > (unless the sprocket and brake are both inboard of the bearings).
> > I'm
> > > not saying it isn't possible - just that there's some design
> > > considerations (which may in turn effect engine offset, wheel
> > track,
> > > etc). In my case, within my design constraints and knowledge, it
> > > really wasn't feasible.
> > > Again, these are just things that came to mind and are hardly
> > > gospel.. I'm no expert by any means :)
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, Todd JONES
> > > <toddjones2152@y...> wrote:
> > > > The bearing mounts have a gap at the bottom so that the axel
> can
> > be
> > > > dropped down.
> > > > Todd
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________
> > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > > > http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> offroadgokarts-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
I took some pictures of that frame to day
and will post them on friday when I get back
as for how much I want for it
I think that I have about 900 to 1000 in it so far
so it will be around there ,
but this frame will stand up to what ever you can through at it.
its was made to put a 1000 cat in it , has the mount for a rad,
and also has a place for a GMC alt.<for giveing the 4 kcdayliter
power.
ken<the wasp>
Taz,
I was working the new axle into the trailing arm and as I set each
componenton on the axle I felt that using the tried and true
bushings (pipe over the axle) between each component will lock the
entire assembly after the wheels are bolted on. So in summation I
think welding won't be neccesary not to mention as everyone has
posted the obvious pending bearing change.
Thanks as always,
Randy
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Francis"
<mcmahan55@y...> wrote:
> Hey Randy,
> Imagine seeing you over here!
> I can see a couple of potential probs with your suggestion.
> 1) Unless you are a trained welder I could see probs with
overheating
> and weakening the axle.
> 2) Unless you are using bolt-on sprockets and brake disc's I see a
> prob with replacing these parts if they are welded. You could take
a
> hardened drillbit and "dimple" the axle where the setscrews will
be?
> Hope I haven't overstepped my boundaries with my recent posts!
I
> now look at all the potentials before making changes and there are
> still some surprises. You know what I have and the changes I've
made
> along with the probs I have created for myself.
> HAPPY TRAILS. I hope Roy and Dale are watching over all of us!
> Taztoo
>
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, areblder <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> > Has anyone welded the sprocket hub and brake hubs to the axle
> rather
> > than just relying on the set screws? If so any downside or
upside?
> >
> > Randy
dropping the axle wasn't my problem :) it was replacing axle
bearing's that were inboard of the sprocket and brake hubs.. my
soultion was to not weld them on and revisit it all if i ever had
problems with shearing :)
i will check out your're bearing plate though. i don't like the ones
i have, as they're not square.. what i really want do do is figure
out how to mount a bearing w/o a flange.. i guess they can just be
pressed if it's a snug fit? not really sure..
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "randy0288" <randy028@h...>
wrote:
> It is best to slot your bearing plates when using round axle bar
when
> possible. I have seen sprocket hubs and brake hubs seize up on
axles
> even with set screws. I have posted a pick in the photos on a
bearing
> plate. Change the deminsions to match your bearing and axle. Randy C
>
>
>
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "Jason"
<talk_with_jason@y...>
> wrote:
> > ok - the axle is dropped. but if both ends are capped off with
> welded
> > on sprocket and brake hubs, the bearings still can't be removed
> > (unless the sprocket and brake are both inboard of the bearings).
> I'm
> > not saying it isn't possible - just that there's some design
> > considerations (which may in turn effect engine offset, wheel
> track,
> > etc). In my case, within my design constraints and knowledge, it
> > really wasn't feasible.
> > Again, these are just things that came to mind and are hardly
> > gospel.. I'm no expert by any means :)
> >
> >
> > --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, Todd JONES
> > <toddjones2152@y...> wrote:
> > > The bearing mounts have a gap at the bottom so that the axel
can
> be
> > > dropped down.
> > > Todd
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > > http://sbc.yahoo.com
It is best to slot your bearing plates when using round axle bar when
possible. I have seen sprocket hubs and brake hubs seize up on axles
even with set screws. I have posted a pick in the photos on a bearing
plate. Change the deminsions to match your bearing and axle. Randy C
--- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <talk_with_jason@y...>
wrote:
> ok - the axle is dropped. but if both ends are capped off with
welded
> on sprocket and brake hubs, the bearings still can't be removed
> (unless the sprocket and brake are both inboard of the bearings).
I'm
> not saying it isn't possible - just that there's some design
> considerations (which may in turn effect engine offset, wheel
track,
> etc). In my case, within my design constraints and knowledge, it
> really wasn't feasible.
> Again, these are just things that came to mind and are hardly
> gospel.. I'm no expert by any means :)
>
>
> --- In offroadgokarts@yahoogroups.com, Todd JONES
> <toddjones2152@y...> wrote:
> > The bearing mounts have a gap at the bottom so that the axel can
be
> > dropped down.
> > Todd
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > http://sbc.yahoo.com