Hello Everyone,
I have a M18 Kohler engine with the standard cast iron flywheel. I am going to
start pulling with this engine but I am very nervious about using it with the
cast iron flywheel.
I am looking for a steel flywheel but can't seem to find one. I have contacted
all the part places like Vogel Manufacturing and with no sucess.
Can anyone point me in the right direction on what I should do?
Thanks for any help.

Right now the trans is apart in the puller. Waiting on enough extra money for a
few more mods. There should be photos of it in the photos section. I believe its
under Wolfmans puller. Its a Cub 147 chassis with a K341 and MTD sheet metal. I
bent a shifting fork last time I pulled it so Its going to get a set of the
heavy duty ones and another pulling gear making it 3 pulling gears.
 
Anyway the reason I like the Toro it seems to be a little better built with the
exception of the stamped frame. It has twin pumps. I basically have been looking
a the cheapest model of each brand that has at least a 48" deck and 2 cylinder
engine. 

--- On Wed, 4/8/09, Stanley Kompelien <allispuller62@...> wrote:

From: Stanley Kompelien <allispuller62@...>
Subject: Re: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Need some advice from the experts on
buying a Zero turn mower
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 1:47 PM






Maybe you should selll your  puller then go in with cah to deal.  What is your
puller , where you located and how much/

--- On Wed, 4/8/09, Steve Gerot <sgerot@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Steve Gerot <sgerot@yahoo. com>
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Need some advice from the experts on buying a
Zero turn mower
To: ollow>gardentractorpullin g@yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 6:07 PM

I know this is a little off topic but I figure this will be a good place to get
a good answer.

Ive been wanting to buy a small Zero turn. The more I look the more confused I
get. I kind of want a twin because they are smoother. I'm thinking a 48-52 inch
deck so it will squeeze into tighter spaces. Ive kind of narrowed it down to
these. Toro TimeCutter Z5030, Cub RZT 50, John Deere EZtrak Z245, Troybuilt
Mustang RZT 50, Dixon and Ariens. I am strongly leaning towards the Toro
especially with the promotion going on. The TimeCutter Z5030 is on sale for just
under $3000. Maybe they will take my puller in on trade. I would really love
some input to help me decide.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

1st off, are you going to be cutting any hills steeper that 20 degrees?  Zero
turns look great when they are advertised on tv, but they are worthless on
hills.

I can't give you advice on the residental sized models you are looking at, but
the advice I can give you is get the biggest motor available for the size of cut
you want and make sure the wheels are NOT belt driven.  Make sure it is
hydrostatic and has twin hydraulic pumps and not just one that feeds both wheel
motors.  Twin pumps give you a much finer control on the speed of each wheel.

I will be upgrading our mowers from the Cub Cadet Recon 48" Zero Turd for a
Kubota ZD221 or Bad Boy of similar size.  I do professional lawn mowing for 100
or so clients, all of which have hills so I need as much power as I can get.

I hope this helps you.

Brett Zambotti
Unique Lawn Care

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Gerot" <sgerot@...> wrote:
>
> I know this is a little off topic but I figure this will be a good place to
get a good answer.
>
> Ive been wanting to buy a small Zero turn. The more I look the more confused I
get. I kind of want a twin because they are smoother. I'm thinking a 48-52 inch
deck so it will squeeze into tighter spaces. Ive kind of narrowed it down to
these. Toro TimeCutter Z5030, Cub RZT 50, John Deere EZtrak Z245, Troybuilt
Mustang RZT 50, Dixon and Ariens. I am strongly leaning towards the Toro
especially with the promotion going on. The TimeCutter Z5030 is on sale for just
under $3000. Maybe they will take my puller in on trade. I would really love
some input to help me decide.
>

Maybe you should selll your  puller then go in with cah to deal.  What is your
puller , where you located and how much/

--- On Wed, 4/8/09, Steve Gerot <sgerot@...> wrote:


From: Steve Gerot <sgerot@...>
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Need some advice from the experts on buying a
Zero turn mower
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 6:07 PM






I know this is a little off topic but I figure this will be a good place to get
a good answer.

Ive been wanting to buy a small Zero turn. The more I look the more confused I
get. I kind of want a twin because they are smoother. I'm thinking a 48-52 inch
deck so it will squeeze into tighter spaces. Ive kind of narrowed it down to
these. Toro TimeCutter Z5030, Cub RZT 50, John Deere EZtrak Z245, Troybuilt
Mustang RZT 50, Dixon and Ariens. I am strongly leaning towards the Toro
especially with the promotion going on. The TimeCutter Z5030 is on sale for just
under $3000. Maybe they will take my puller in on trade. I would really love
some input to help me decide.



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ive run ariens cub and dixon and they are all great. But thats just my opinion
its more financially what you think you can afford.

--- On Wed, 4/8/09, Steve Gerot <sgerot@...> wrote:

From: Steve Gerot <sgerot@...>
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Need some advice from the experts on buying a
Zero turn mower
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 1:07 PM












             I know this is a little off topic but I figure this will be a good
place to get a good answer.



Ive been wanting to buy a small Zero turn. The more I look the more confused I
get. I kind of want a twin because they are smoother. I'm thinking a 48-52 inch
deck so it will squeeze into tighter spaces. Ive kind of narrowed it down to
these. Toro TimeCutter Z5030, Cub RZT 50, John Deere EZtrak Z245, Troybuilt
Mustang RZT 50, Dixon and Ariens. I am strongly leaning towards the Toro
especially with the promotion going on. The TimeCutter Z5030 is on sale for just
under $3000. Maybe they will take my puller in on trade. I would really love
some input to help me decide.































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know this is a little off topic but I figure this will be a good place to get
a good answer.

Ive been wanting to buy a small Zero turn. The more I look the more confused I
get. I kind of want a twin because they are smoother. I'm thinking a 48-52 inch
deck so it will squeeze into tighter spaces. Ive kind of narrowed it down to
these. Toro TimeCutter Z5030, Cub RZT 50, John Deere EZtrak Z245, Troybuilt
Mustang RZT 50, Dixon and Ariens. I am strongly leaning towards the Toro
especially with the promotion going on. The TimeCutter Z5030 is on sale for just
under $3000. Maybe they will take my puller in on trade. I would really love
some input to help me decide.

As a novice puller, it's a good read.  Keep us informed!

----- Original Message -----

From: tuffy_puller

To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:48:54 +0000 (UTC)

Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Re: Triggering a tach











































Hi Again, I should add I am not trying to make it read exact HP, All I am
looking for is something that I can put a engine on and experiment with things
and have it be sensitive and consistent enough to tell me if changes help or
hurt, which it seems to be.





When I ran the stock engine on it I would load it till the governor would let
the carb just get to wide open and then read the pressure. When I had my mod
Tecumseh on it I would just pull it down till I had max pressure. It will get to
max psi and if I put more load on it the engine will slow down and it will loose
pressure so its not hard to find the point where the engine is putting out all
it can.





The old stock 10 horse I had running about 3800 or so no load and I took the
pressure and a close guess on the rpm and put it in the calculator and it said
9.8 hp so it must be in the ball park. Taking off the restricting muffler and
putting on a 1.5" OD pipe it would go to 11 hp, changing to E85 it went to just
under 12 hp, A different pipe that should have been way to big on a 10 hp went
to just over 12 hp, so I tried a bored out Kohler carb with a 1.11" venturi and
a 1.265" butterfly on E85 and it jumped to 14 hp. The stock engine on gas with
the muffler would make 230 psi when the carb just got to wide open, with the big
pipe and carb on E85 it would make 330 psi with the same governed speed and
pulling it down to the carb just going wide open. To just make sure it was
consistent after I ran it with the big pipe and carb I put it all back to stock
on gas and the stock muffler and it went right back to the same reading of 230
psi when the carb just got to wide open. With the big pump oil temp don't affect
the readings at all, at least on the small engines I have had on it so far. I am
reading the pressure at the pump outlet, not at the end of the hose by the flow
control, I think this helps it be more accurate.





With the mod Tecumseh without a governor I would run it till I would get max psi
which was 560 psi, I took a guess that it was running about 4500 to 5000 rpm at
that point and used that in the calculator and it comes up in the 28 to 30 hp
range. Changing the timing from 30 degrees advance to 33 the max psi went from
530 to 560 psi. The thing works better than I could have hoped, since this is
the first time I tried to build something like this.





I did find a good article on line from someone who built one for go-kart engines
with a hydraulic pump and it had allot of good info and tips. He found a gear
pump that has some wear in it works better than a new tight one, he said the
worn pump is less touchy on the load control. The calculator I use has a input I
can change for pump efficiency, it says most good gear pumps will be .85 to .90
percent, I am using .75 to allow for the wear in the pump I have since it is a
used pump and has some wear inside it.





I don't have much money in this thing, Maybe $200.  I had the pump given to me,
I used a old MTD lawn tractor frame to mount it all on so I can roll it around
and for right now I am driving the pump with a Kevlar V belt with a 8" pulley on
the pump and a 4" on the engine and a spring loaded idler to keep tension on the
belt. Even with the mod Tecumseh on it and running at max power for a minute or
so I can shut it down and put my hand on the belt and pulleys and they will be
just warmed up so its not slipping. I even made my own flow control valve to
save money. I used a old LP tank like grills use for a oil tank because I had
one here and its thick enough to weld on and drill and tap for a temp gauge and
a vent fitting. I welded a pipe with a 1.5" ID in the bottom of the tank to feed
the pump from, the tank sits above and close to the pump so the line from the
tank to the pump is real short and is gravity feed also.





Now that it looks like it is going to work well enough I plan on rebuilding it
so the engine hooks to a shaft with a coupler instead of a belt and I have a big
heavy plate of machined cast steel I want to mount it all on because with the
flimsy lawn tractor frame I am having some trouble with vibration and flexing. I
didn't want to put all kinds of work and money into something that might not
have worked in the end. So its not a real pretty thing to look at right now
since it was a experiment I didn't spend much time making things look nice.





It also needs a oil cooler if I want to make a bunch of pulls in a row to test
different setups. With the stock 10 horse I can run that a long time before the
oil temp gets to high, with the Tecumseh the oil heats much faster with more rpm
and higher pressure. I hope one day to be able to run my .060 over alcohol
engine from my John Deere on it so I can try some different things and find the
best timing advance and such things.





Sorry for writing a book on all this, I just wanted to let you know what I have
done so far. I have wanted to try building one of these for a long time, then
when I got messing with the mod Tecumseh I needed something to see if the engine
was going to run and make any power or even stay together.





--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "tuffy_puller" wrote:


>


> I have the dyno working right now. I found a web site that has all the
calculators on pumps and hydraulic motors to figure out capacity of the pump and
from that the GPM@RPM. If I know the RPM of the pump to figure the GPM and the
PSI the pump is putting out I can put these numbers in their calculator and it
tells me the HP it's taking to turn the pump. I have had a totally stock 10 hp
Kohler on it and a Tecumseh OHV I am working on modifying. The dyno is
consistent and repeats just fine. I have a pump that takes 109 hp to turn at
3600 rpm at 1500 psi. The stock 10 horse motor will only make 230 lbs even with
the pump at half speed. I can leave the 10 horse running at full load with the
oil barely warm and leave it run till the oil gets to 200 degrees and the
pressure on the gauge don't change at all. I drilled out the carb on the 10 hp
so it will run on E85 and the dyno picked up the difference over gas so it is
pretty sensitive also.


>


> I just need a way to read the rpm without costing a small fortune and also
work on 1/2 and 1 pulse ignitions. So that is why I am wondering if I can read
it off the pump somehow instead of the engine.


> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "ekgrapes" wrote:


> >


> > Tuffy,


> >


> > I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.


> >


> > There are a lot of variables.  I will give you my input about the tach and
then you can take it or leave it after that.


> >


> > I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out.  Get rid of the
distributor.


> >


> > Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that
will read frequency (your dmm will work).  60 tooth wheel will read direct to
RPM.


> >


> > End here if you want.


> >


> > Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.


> >


> > 1.  If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read.  It
will provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines
on open and closed loop systems.  If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it.  hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....


> >


> > 2.  know what you have for a pump.  Know its cubic inch per revolution
(CIPR) rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP
calculations.


> >


> > 3.  know if your pump has a case drain.  as pumps wear, more and more fluid
goes out case.  You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation.  You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.


> >


> > 3a.  most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm,
full speed ~3500 rpm.  From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half
engine speed so you are aware of what you are doing.  fyi, Rexroth fabricates
some ~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine,
but you have to find one.


> >


> > 4.  know what accuracy you are looking for.  this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing.  in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system.  You
want to be accurate.  Same for flow.  You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating
of your pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into
GPM, but this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the
system and measuring actual flow in gpm.


> >


> > 5.  Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help.  They
can help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then
you run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read.  This drives instrumentation also.  It will tell you if you will be able
to pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences.  Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings.  with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading.  You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....


> >


> > 6.  basic items....  Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig
output), gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a
needle valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep
pressures constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to
tank, feed back to just before the pre filter.


> >


> > hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,


> >


> > Grapes


> > Go Big Red.


> >


>





















































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry, thought I mentioned it earlier! I am running 12hp S/A, currently on 110
octane.

--- On Fri, 4/3/09, Barry Pheiffer <barrypheiffer@...> wrote:


From: Barry Pheiffer <barrypheiffer@...>
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Re: Fuel and Oil again...
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 3, 2009, 7:39 PM






The most important info you left out is what class your running and if you using
alcohol. It's kinda hard to answer if we don't know what your doing.

--- In gardentractorpullin g@yahoogroups. com, "Aaron McDonald" <mac15b@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an auto
parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
>
> Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no longer
carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
>



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi, my day to day dyne book would read the same as yours i,m using electricity,
using the rise and fall of amps to monitor my changes in fuel,timing etc. what
caught my eye is the ohv tecumseh being tested. i put together my dyne
specifically for a ohv140 i built for altered stock. i use a hand held tach
which picksup a signal from reflective tape on the shaft. i can get info if
needed, gerard

--- On Tue, 4/7/09, tuffy_puller <tuffy_puller@...> wrote:

From: tuffy_puller <tuffy_puller@...>
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Re: Triggering a tach
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 6:48 AM






Hi Again, I should add I am not trying to make it read exact HP, All I am
looking for is something that I can put a engine on and experiment with things
and have it be sensitive and consistent enough to tell me if changes help or
hurt, which it seems to be.

When I ran the stock engine on it I would load it till the governor would let
the carb just get to wide open and then read the pressure. When I had my mod
Tecumseh on it I would just pull it down till I had max pressure. It will get to
max psi and if I put more load on it the engine will slow down and it will loose
pressure so its not hard to find the point where the engine is putting out all
it can.

The old stock 10 horse I had running about 3800 or so no load and I took the
pressure and a close guess on the rpm and put it in the calculator and it said
9.8 hp so it must be in the ball park. Taking off the restricting muffler and
putting on a 1.5" OD pipe it would go to 11 hp, changing to E85 it went to just
under 12 hp, A different pipe that should have been way to big on a 10 hp went
to just over 12 hp, so I tried a bored out Kohler carb with a 1.11" venturi and
a 1.265" butterfly on E85 and it jumped to 14 hp. The stock engine on gas with
the muffler would make 230 psi when the carb just got to wide open, with the big
pipe and carb on E85 it would make 330 psi with the same governed speed and
pulling it down to the carb just going wide open. To just make sure it was
consistent after I ran it with the big pipe and carb I put it all back to stock
on gas and the stock muffler and it went right back to the same reading of 230
psi when the carb just
  got to wide open. With the big pump oil temp don't affect the readings at all,
at least on the small engines I have had on it so far. I am reading the pressure
at the pump outlet, not at the end of the hose by the flow control, I think this
helps it be more accurate.

With the mod Tecumseh without a governor I would run it till I would get max psi
which was 560 psi, I took a guess that it was running about 4500 to 5000 rpm at
that point and used that in the calculator and it comes up in the 28 to 30 hp
range. Changing the timing from 30 degrees advance to 33 the max psi went from
530 to 560 psi. The thing works better than I could have hoped, since this is
the first time I tried to build something like this.

I did find a good article on line from someone who built one for go-kart engines
with a hydraulic pump and it had allot of good info and tips. He found a gear
pump that has some wear in it works better than a new tight one, he said the
worn pump is less touchy on the load control. The calculator I use has a input I
can change for pump efficiency, it says most good gear pumps will be .85 to .90
percent, I am using .75 to allow for the wear in the pump I have since it is a
used pump and has some wear inside it.

I don't have much money in this thing, Maybe $200. I had the pump given to me, I
used a old MTD lawn tractor frame to mount it all on so I can roll it around and
for right now I am driving the pump with a Kevlar V belt with a 8" pulley on the
pump and a 4" on the engine and a spring loaded idler to keep tension on the
belt. Even with the mod Tecumseh on it and running at max power for a minute or
so I can shut it down and put my hand on the belt and pulleys and they will be
just warmed up so its not slipping. I even made my own flow control valve to
save money. I used a old LP tank like grills use for a oil tank because I had
one here and its thick enough to weld on and drill and tap for a temp gauge and
a vent fitting. I welded a pipe with a 1.5" ID in the bottom of the tank to feed
the pump from, the tank sits above and close to the pump so the line from the
tank to the pump is real short and is gravity feed also.

Now that it looks like it is going to work well enough I plan on rebuilding it
so the engine hooks to a shaft with a coupler instead of a belt and I have a big
heavy plate of machined cast steel I want to mount it all on because with the
flimsy lawn tractor frame I am having some trouble with vibration and flexing. I
didn't want to put all kinds of work and money into something that might not
have worked in the end. So its not a real pretty thing to look at right now
since it was a experiment I didn't spend much time making things look nice.

It also needs a oil cooler if I want to make a bunch of pulls in a row to test
different setups. With the stock 10 horse I can run that a long time before the
oil temp gets to high, with the Tecumseh the oil heats much faster with more rpm
and higher pressure. I hope one day to be able to run my .060 over alcohol
engine from my John Deere on it so I can try some different things and find the
best timing advance and such things.

Sorry for writing a book on all this, I just wanted to let you know what I have
done so far. I have wanted to try building one of these for a long time, then
when I got messing with the mod Tecumseh I needed something to see if the engine
was going to run and make any power or even stay together.

--- In gardentractorpullin g@yahoogroups. com, "tuffy_puller" <tuffy_puller@
...> wrote:
>
> I have the dyno working right now. I found a web site that has all the
calculators on pumps and hydraulic motors to figure out capacity of the pump and
from that the GPM@RPM. If I know the RPM of the pump to figure the GPM and the
PSI the pump is putting out I can put these numbers in their calculator and it
tells me the HP it's taking to turn the pump. I have had a totally stock 10 hp
Kohler on it and a Tecumseh OHV I am working on modifying. The dyno is
consistent and repeats just fine. I have a pump that takes 109 hp to turn at
3600 rpm at 1500 psi. The stock 10 horse motor will only make 230 lbs even with
the pump at half speed. I can leave the 10 horse running at full load with the
oil barely warm and leave it run till the oil gets to 200 degrees and the
pressure on the gauge don't change at all. I drilled out the carb on the 10 hp
so it will run on E85 and the dyno picked up the difference over gas so it is
pretty sensitive also.
>
> I just need a way to read the rpm without costing a small fortune and also
work on 1/2 and 1 pulse ignitions. So that is why I am wondering if I can read
it off the pump somehow instead of the engine.
> --- In gardentractorpullin g@yahoogroups. com, "ekgrapes" <ekgrapes@> wrote:
> >
> > Tuffy,
> >
> > I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.
> >
> > There are a lot of variables. I will give you my input about the tach and
then you can take it or leave it after that.
> >
> > I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out. Get rid of the distributor.
> >
> > Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that
will read frequency (your dmm will work). 60 tooth wheel will read direct to
RPM.
> >
> > End here if you want.
> >
> > Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.
> >
> > 1. If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read. It
will provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines
on open and closed loop systems. If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it. hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....
> >
> > 2. know what you have for a pump. Know its cubic inch per revolution (CIPR)
rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP calculations.
> >
> > 3. know if your pump has a case drain. as pumps wear, more and more fluid
goes out case. You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation. You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.
> >
> > 3a. most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm,
full speed ~3500 rpm. From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half
engine speed so you are aware of what you are doing. fyi, Rexroth fabricates
some ~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine,
but you have to find one.
> >
> > 4. know what accuracy you are looking for. this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing. in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system. You want
to be accurate. Same for flow. You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating of your
pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into GPM, but
this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the system and
measuring actual flow in gpm.
> >
> > 5. Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help. They
can help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then
you run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read. This drives instrumentation also. It will tell you if you will be able to
pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences. Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings. with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading. You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....
> >
> > 6. basic items.... Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig
output), gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a
needle valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep
pressures constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to
tank, feed back to just before the pre filter.
> >
> > hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,
> >
> > Grapes
> > Go Big Red.
> >
>



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Again, I should add I am not trying to make it read exact HP, All I am
looking for is something that I can put a engine on and experiment with things
and have it be sensitive and consistent enough to tell me if changes help or
hurt, which it seems to be.

When I ran the stock engine on it I would load it till the governor would let
the carb just get to wide open and then read the pressure. When I had my mod
Tecumseh on it I would just pull it down till I had max pressure. It will get to
max psi and if I put more load on it the engine will slow down and it will loose
pressure so its not hard to find the point where the engine is putting out all
it can.

The old stock 10 horse I had running about 3800 or so no load and I took the
pressure and a close guess on the rpm and put it in the calculator and it said
9.8 hp so it must be in the ball park. Taking off the restricting muffler and
putting on a 1.5" OD pipe it would go to 11 hp, changing to E85 it went to just
under 12 hp, A different pipe that should have been way to big on a 10 hp went
to just over 12 hp, so I tried a bored out Kohler carb with a 1.11" venturi and
a 1.265" butterfly on E85 and it jumped to 14 hp. The stock engine on gas with
the muffler would make 230 psi when the carb just got to wide open, with the big
pipe and carb on E85 it would make 330 psi with the same governed speed and
pulling it down to the carb just going wide open. To just make sure it was
consistent after I ran it with the big pipe and carb I put it all back to stock
on gas and the stock muffler and it went right back to the same reading of 230
psi when the carb just got to wide open. With the big pump oil temp don't affect
the readings at all, at least on the small engines I have had on it so far. I am
reading the pressure at the pump outlet, not at the end of the hose by the flow
control, I think this helps it be more accurate.

With the mod Tecumseh without a governor I would run it till I would get max psi
which was 560 psi, I took a guess that it was running about 4500 to 5000 rpm at
that point and used that in the calculator and it comes up in the 28 to 30 hp
range. Changing the timing from 30 degrees advance to 33 the max psi went from
530 to 560 psi. The thing works better than I could have hoped, since this is
the first time I tried to build something like this.

I did find a good article on line from someone who built one for go-kart engines
with a hydraulic pump and it had allot of good info and tips. He found a gear
pump that has some wear in it works better than a new tight one, he said the
worn pump is less touchy on the load control. The calculator I use has a input I
can change for pump efficiency, it says most good gear pumps will be .85 to .90
percent, I am using .75 to allow for the wear in the pump I have since it is a
used pump and has some wear inside it.

I don't have much money in this thing, Maybe $200.  I had the pump given to me,
I used a old MTD lawn tractor frame to mount it all on so I can roll it around
and for right now I am driving the pump with a Kevlar V belt with a 8" pulley on
the pump and a 4" on the engine and a spring loaded idler to keep tension on the
belt. Even with the mod Tecumseh on it and running at max power for a minute or
so I can shut it down and put my hand on the belt and pulleys and they will be
just warmed up so its not slipping. I even made my own flow control valve to
save money. I used a old LP tank like grills use for a oil tank because I had
one here and its thick enough to weld on and drill and tap for a temp gauge and
a vent fitting. I welded a pipe with a 1.5" ID in the bottom of the tank to feed
the pump from, the tank sits above and close to the pump so the line from the
tank to the pump is real short and is gravity feed also.

Now that it looks like it is going to work well enough I plan on rebuilding it
so the engine hooks to a shaft with a coupler instead of a belt and I have a big
heavy plate of machined cast steel I want to mount it all on because with the
flimsy lawn tractor frame I am having some trouble with vibration and flexing. I
didn't want to put all kinds of work and money into something that might not
have worked in the end. So its not a real pretty thing to look at right now
since it was a experiment I didn't spend much time making things look nice.

It also needs a oil cooler if I want to make a bunch of pulls in a row to test
different setups. With the stock 10 horse I can run that a long time before the
oil temp gets to high, with the Tecumseh the oil heats much faster with more rpm
and higher pressure. I hope one day to be able to run my .060 over alcohol
engine from my John Deere on it so I can try some different things and find the
best timing advance and such things.

Sorry for writing a book on all this, I just wanted to let you know what I have
done so far. I have wanted to try building one of these for a long time, then
when I got messing with the mod Tecumseh I needed something to see if the engine
was going to run and make any power or even stay together.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "tuffy_puller" <tuffy_puller@...>
wrote:
>
> I have the dyno working right now. I found a web site that has all the
calculators on pumps and hydraulic motors to figure out capacity of the pump and
from that the GPM@RPM. If I know the RPM of the pump to figure the GPM and the
PSI the pump is putting out I can put these numbers in their calculator and it
tells me the HP it's taking to turn the pump. I have had a totally stock 10 hp
Kohler on it and a Tecumseh OHV I am working on modifying. The dyno is
consistent and repeats just fine. I have a pump that takes 109 hp to turn at
3600 rpm at 1500 psi. The stock 10 horse motor will only make 230 lbs even with
the pump at half speed. I can leave the 10 horse running at full load with the
oil barely warm and leave it run till the oil gets to 200 degrees and the
pressure on the gauge don't change at all. I drilled out the carb on the 10 hp
so it will run on E85 and the dyno picked up the difference over gas so it is
pretty sensitive also.
>
> I just need a way to read the rpm without costing a small fortune and also
work on 1/2 and 1 pulse ignitions. So that is why I am wondering if I can read
it off the pump somehow instead of the engine.
> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "ekgrapes" <ekgrapes@> wrote:
> >
> > Tuffy,
> >
> > I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.
> >
> > There are a lot of variables.  I will give you my input about the tach and
then you can take it or leave it after that.
> >
> > I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out.  Get rid of the
distributor.
> >
> > Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that
will read frequency (your dmm will work).  60 tooth wheel will read direct to
RPM.
> >
> > End here if you want.
> >
> > Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.
> >
> > 1.  If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read.  It
will provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines
on open and closed loop systems.  If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it.  hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....
> >
> > 2.  know what you have for a pump.  Know its cubic inch per revolution
(CIPR) rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP
calculations.
> >
> > 3.  know if your pump has a case drain.  as pumps wear, more and more fluid
goes out case.  You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation.  You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.
> >
> > 3a.  most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm,
full speed ~3500 rpm.  From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half
engine speed so you are aware of what you are doing.  fyi, Rexroth fabricates
some ~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine,
but you have to find one.
> >
> > 4.  know what accuracy you are looking for.  this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing.  in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system.  You
want to be accurate.  Same for flow.  You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating
of your pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into
GPM, but this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the
system and measuring actual flow in gpm.
> >
> > 5.  Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help.  They
can help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then
you run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read.  This drives instrumentation also.  It will tell you if you will be able
to pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences.  Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings.  with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading.  You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....
> >
> > 6.  basic items....  Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig
output), gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a
needle valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep
pressures constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to
tank, feed back to just before the pre filter.
> >
> > hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,
> >
> > Grapes
> > Go Big Red.
> >
>

I basically did this.

http://www.pullmapa.com/Command_Tips_and_Tricks/command_automotive_tach_hook_up.\
htm

Worked quite nice with a prox switch very similar to this.  Ebay # 370124858642.
But mine had a removable cable?  Might want to go up to the 12mm version though,
as it's kinda sensitive.

Still going to change from a 2 pulse trigger to a 4 pulse trigger.  I think
you'd want to use a 2 pulse trigger, and set the tach for 8 cylinder.


I also used a shift light tach as a rev limiter.  Very nice.


Darin


--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "tuffy_puller" <tuffy_puller@...>
wrote:
>
> I have the dyno working right now. I found a web site that has all the
calculators on pumps and hydraulic motors to figure out capacity of the pump and
from that the GPM@RPM. If I know the RPM of the pump to figure the GPM and the
PSI the pump is putting out I can put these numbers in their calculator and it
tells me the HP it's taking to turn the pump. I have had a totally stock 10 hp
Kohler on it and a Tecumseh OHV I am working on modifying. The dyno is
consistent and repeats just fine. I have a pump that takes 109 hp to turn at
3600 rpm at 1500 psi. The stock 10 horse motor will only make 230 lbs even with
the pump at half speed. I can leave the 10 horse running at full load with the
oil barely warm and leave it run till the oil gets to 200 degrees and the
pressure on the gauge don't change at all. I drilled out the carb on the 10 hp
so it will run on E85 and the dyno picked up the difference over gas so it is
pretty sensitive also.
>
> I just need a way to read the rpm without costing a small fortune and also
work on 1/2 and 1 pulse ignitions. So that is why I am wondering if I can read
it off the pump somehow instead of the engine.
> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "ekgrapes" <ekgrapes@> wrote:
> >
> > Tuffy,
> >
> > I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.
> >
> > There are a lot of variables.  I will give you my input about the tach and
then you can take it or leave it after that.
> >
> > I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out.  Get rid of the
distributor.
> >
> > Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that
will read frequency (your dmm will work).  60 tooth wheel will read direct to
RPM.
> >
> > End here if you want.
> >
> > Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.
> >
> > 1.  If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read.  It
will provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines
on open and closed loop systems.  If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it.  hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....
> >
> > 2.  know what you have for a pump.  Know its cubic inch per revolution
(CIPR) rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP
calculations.
> >
> > 3.  know if your pump has a case drain.  as pumps wear, more and more fluid
goes out case.  You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation.  You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.
> >
> > 3a.  most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm,
full speed ~3500 rpm.  From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half
engine speed so you are aware of what you are doing.  fyi, Rexroth fabricates
some ~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine,
but you have to find one.
> >
> > 4.  know what accuracy you are looking for.  this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing.  in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system.  You
want to be accurate.  Same for flow.  You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating
of your pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into
GPM, but this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the
system and measuring actual flow in gpm.
> >
> > 5.  Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help.  They
can help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then
you run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read.  This drives instrumentation also.  It will tell you if you will be able
to pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences.  Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings.  with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading.  You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....
> >
> > 6.  basic items....  Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig
output), gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a
needle valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep
pressures constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to
tank, feed back to just before the pre filter.
> >
> > hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,
> >
> > Grapes
> > Go Big Red.
> >
>

I see that you are running a 12hp Altered.  Im guessing that you are limited to
gasoline only.  Always had GREAT luck with Valvoline 30W and Torco 100 Unleaded.
Cant remember the specific gravity off hand, the Torco site is down right now.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Barry Pheiffer"
<barrypheiffer@...> wrote:
>
> The most important info you left out is what class your running and if you
using alcohol. It's kinda hard to answer if we don't know what your doing.
>
>
>
> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron McDonald" <mac15b@> wrote:
> >
> > OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an auto
parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
> >
> > Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no longer
carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
> >
>

I have the dyno working right now. I found a web site that has all the
calculators on pumps and hydraulic motors to figure out capacity of the pump and
from that the GPM@RPM. If I know the RPM of the pump to figure the GPM and the
PSI the pump is putting out I can put these numbers in their calculator and it
tells me the HP it's taking to turn the pump. I have had a totally stock 10 hp
Kohler on it and a Tecumseh OHV I am working on modifying. The dyno is
consistent and repeats just fine. I have a pump that takes 109 hp to turn at
3600 rpm at 1500 psi. The stock 10 horse motor will only make 230 lbs even with
the pump at half speed. I can leave the 10 horse running at full load with the
oil barely warm and leave it run till the oil gets to 200 degrees and the
pressure on the gauge don't change at all. I drilled out the carb on the 10 hp
so it will run on E85 and the dyno picked up the difference over gas so it is
pretty sensitive also.

I just need a way to read the rpm without costing a small fortune and also work
on 1/2 and 1 pulse ignitions. So that is why I am wondering if I can read it off
the pump somehow instead of the engine.
--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "ekgrapes" <ekgrapes@...> wrote:
>
> Tuffy,
>
> I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.
>
> There are a lot of variables.  I will give you my input about the tach and
then you can take it or leave it after that.
>
> I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out.  Get rid of the
distributor.
>
> Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that
will read frequency (your dmm will work).  60 tooth wheel will read direct to
RPM.
>
> End here if you want.
>
> Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.
>
> 1.  If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read.  It
will provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines
on open and closed loop systems.  If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it.  hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....
>
> 2.  know what you have for a pump.  Know its cubic inch per revolution (CIPR)
rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP calculations.
>
> 3.  know if your pump has a case drain.  as pumps wear, more and more fluid
goes out case.  You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation.  You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.
>
> 3a.  most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm,
full speed ~3500 rpm.  From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half
engine speed so you are aware of what you are doing.  fyi, Rexroth fabricates
some ~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine,
but you have to find one.
>
> 4.  know what accuracy you are looking for.  this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing.  in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system.  You
want to be accurate.  Same for flow.  You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating
of your pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into
GPM, but this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the
system and measuring actual flow in gpm.
>
> 5.  Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help.  They
can help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then
you run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read.  This drives instrumentation also.  It will tell you if you will be able
to pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences.  Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings.  with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading.  You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....
>
> 6.  basic items....  Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig
output), gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a
needle valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep
pressures constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to
tank, feed back to just before the pre filter.
>
> hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,
>
> Grapes
> Go Big Red.
>

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, dvogtvpe <no_reply@...> wrote:
>you gonna be the new VM09 dealer  :)
> maybe you wanna hold off to see what the VM09 looks like.
>

Tuffy,

I suggest you sit down and determine what accuracy you want from your dyne
first, make a blueprint and then start.

There are a lot of variables.  I will give you my input about the tach and then
you can take it or leave it after that.

I know budget is king, at least to most of us, so I understand your wants of
making a distributor work, but ebay, Craigs List, classifieds, friends (I do
have a few, at least I think I do) can help you out.  Get rid of the
distributor.

Find a 60 tooth wheel, a magnetic pickup sensor, and a digital display that will
read frequency (your dmm will work).  60 tooth wheel will read direct to RPM.

End here if you want.

Blueprint (design) your system and your expectations.

1.  If you dont know hydraulics, get a basic hydraulics book and read.  It will
provide you with the formulas for calculating HP and provide you guidelines on
open and closed loop systems.  If you like reading off of the internet,
wikipedia, but i get a bit bored looking at a screen and you can take a book
with you and write in it.  hmmm, kind of says something for snail mail.....

2.  know what you have for a pump.  Know its cubic inch per revolution (CIPR)
rating and convert this to gpm - you will use this for your HP calculations.

3.  know if your pump has a case drain.  as pumps wear, more and more fluid goes
out case.  You can plumb this to after your backpressure device and still
capture flow for the HP calculation.  You can trash a pump in a hurry if you do
not know what you have....rotation, case drain, pressure ratings, minimum inlet
pressure, maximum rpm.

3a.  most pumps are rated for electric motor speeds - 1/2 speed ~1700 rpm, full
speed ~3500 rpm.  From you comment, you are spinning your pump at half engine
speed so you are aware of what you are doing.  fyi, Rexroth fabricates some
~8000 rpm bi-directional pumps that can be a 1-1 hook up with your engine, but
you have to find one.

4.  know what accuracy you are looking for.  this will then drive the
instrumentation that you are needing.  in other words, if you do the HP
caculations for the size pump you have and you determine that the pressure gauge
should be ~500 psig, you would not put a 1000 psig gauge in the system.  You
want to be accurate.  Same for flow.  You can, by theory, know the CIPR rating
of your pump and then take the rpm that you are running and convert this into
GPM, but this is very coarse compared to getting a turbine flowmeter into the
system and measuring actual flow in gpm.

5.  Find an engineer friend if you are not up on the numbers to help.  They can
help you take all of your instruments and add up all the unknowns and then you
run a few runs with different engines and operators to determine how
"consistant" your dyne is and you can also determine to what resolution you can
read.  This drives instrumentation also.  It will tell you if you will be able
to pick up small HP increases or if you can only see large differences.  Kind of
like ± .5 hp or ± 5 hp readings.  with plus or minus 5 hp, you know that any
readings within a 10 hp range (-5 to +5) are unreliable for a reading.  You can
gain faith in this type of system with more and more runs and then crunching the
numbers, but keep in mind, flowmeter bearings wear, pressure gauges drift.....

6.  basic items....  Tank, boost pump (small centrifugal pump ~30 psig output),
gauge, pre pump filter, gauge, main pump, back pressure device (not a needle
valve - this controls flow, but a back pressure device that will keep pressures
constant with rpm changes), post filter, turbine flow meter, bleed to tank, feed
back to just before the pre filter.

hope it helps - sorry for any spelling errors,

Grapes
Go Big Red.

Hello, I built a dyno from a big hydraulic pump. I need to put a tach on it. I
have a old Ford electronic distributer I am thinking of gutting out but leave
the magnet pickup in it and using this to trigger a automotive tach. Any one
know if this would trigger most tachs?

The pump runs half engine speed so if I run the dist the same speed as the pump
it should read right for engine rpm with a 8 cylinder tach, since the dist runs
half crank speed in a engine.

maybe you wanna hold off to see what the VM09 looks like.

i currently use a pair of 4ply cepek rear tires,they constantly leak air arrownd
the bead,its a slow leak.im looking at purchasing a new pair of vogel 07-08
tires.i am running aprox 15mph,12 inch hitch,weights are
950-1000-1050-1100-1150,these wts are at 2 different clubs,1 sled starts very
easy,and the other can be hard to get srarted.the 950-1050-1150 classes are all
pulled in the evening,with a average track conditions,and are at the same
venue.the 1000-1100 classes are always pulled in the afternoon between 12noon
and 6pm,most of these pulls take place at different locations with rough
tracks[not level] and on poor dirt,either very hard or powdery conditions.i am
more concerned with my performance on the evening pulls.i am also wondering does
the extra 1/8 inch of tread depth on the 08 tires pile up any more dirt in front
of the sled than the 08 tires do.any opinions are greatly appriciated.  thanks
todd.

glad you had a good experience cant say I have always been so lucky but  dont
want to ridicule Julians products in this forum
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
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%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i have just finished installing a msc super duty rearend in my transaxle.i have
to say everything fit perfectly,i also installed a three speed,using msc gears
and forks,the gears move very good on thier topshaft,and the forks required no
grinding.the enclosed directions were very good and clear.it has been a good
experiance dealing with msc and i would recomend them.

The most important info you left out is what class your running and if you using
alcohol. It's kinda hard to answer if we don't know what your doing.



--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron McDonald" <mac15b@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an auto
parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
>
> Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no longer
carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
>

As far as the fuel goes, IMO-what I used back in the day was "C-16" from VP
fuels. The weight was around 730 specific, did not burn as hot as others but
was a little pricy. There probably have been some new fuels since that do
well from other fuel blenders/makers, but I always had consistent results
when I used that fuel. Just kept it out of the sun and it never went bad
because it was a synthetic-non petroleum based fuel.



Bruce



   _____

From: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aaron McDonald
Sent: 2009-04-03 14:28
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...



OK, so as for oil, should I use a synthetic? 10W30? I've seen some ATV
racing oil put out by Lucas that was 10W40, is that too heavy?

On the fuel then, what would you reccommend? Should I add anything to it? By
the way, this is for a 12hp S/A. Thanks!

--- In gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Litton" <blitton@...> wrote:
>
> Don't base your fuel choice on octane only, the main consideration of race
> gas or gas should be weight. The heavier you can get and still be legal
the
> better. Most associations have rules governing the fuel weight and not the
> octane for that reason. Back in the day when I ran gas I used Quaker state
> oil religiously with a little "pro blend" oil additive. There may be a
> better off the shelf oil now, except for Pennzoil don't use it.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:gardentractorpullin
<mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com> g@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Aaron McDonald
> Sent: 2009-04-03 14:13
> To: gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...
>
>
>
> OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
> First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like
an
> auto parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
> reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
>
> Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that
is
> close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no
> longer carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you are running a high heat engine I would use 30W, if not then 10W30
would be ok. I always changed my oil too frequently to justify synthetic
oil. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use it. I guess oil is cheap in comparison
to engine parts.



  Bruce



   _____

From: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aaron McDonald
Sent: 2009-04-03 14:28
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...



OK, so as for oil, should I use a synthetic? 10W30? I've seen some ATV
racing oil put out by Lucas that was 10W40, is that too heavy?

On the fuel then, what would you reccommend? Should I add anything to it? By
the way, this is for a 12hp S/A. Thanks!

--- In gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Litton" <blitton@...> wrote:
>
> Don't base your fuel choice on octane only, the main consideration of race
> gas or gas should be weight. The heavier you can get and still be legal
the
> better. Most associations have rules governing the fuel weight and not the
> octane for that reason. Back in the day when I ran gas I used Quaker state
> oil religiously with a little "pro blend" oil additive. There may be a
> better off the shelf oil now, except for Pennzoil don't use it.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:gardentractorpullin
<mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com> g@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Aaron McDonald
> Sent: 2009-04-03 14:13
> To: gardentractorpullin <mailto:gardentractorpulling%40yahoogroups.com>
g@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...
>
>
>
> OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
> First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like
an
> auto parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
> reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
>
> Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that
is
> close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no
> longer carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OK, so as for oil, should I use a synthetic? 10W30? I've seen some ATV racing
oil put out by Lucas that was 10W40, is that too heavy?

On the fuel then, what would you reccommend? Should I add anything to it? By the
way, this is for a 12hp S/A. Thanks!


--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Litton" <blitton@...> wrote:
>
> Don't base your fuel choice on octane only, the main consideration of race
> gas or gas should be weight. The heavier you can get and still be legal the
> better. Most associations have rules governing the fuel weight and not the
> octane for that reason. Back in the day when I ran gas I used Quaker state
> oil religiously with a little "pro blend" oil additive. There may be a
> better off the shelf oil now, except for Pennzoil don't use it.
>
>
>
>   Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aaron McDonald
> Sent: 2009-04-03 14:13
> To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...
>
>
>
> OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
> First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an
> auto parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
> reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.
>
> Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
> close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no
> longer carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Don't base your fuel choice on octane only, the main consideration of race
gas or gas should be weight. The heavier you can get and still be legal the
better. Most associations have rules governing the fuel weight and not the
octane for that reason. Back in the day when I ran gas I used Quaker state
oil religiously with a little "pro blend" oil additive. There may be a
better off the shelf oil now, except for Pennzoil don't use it.



   Bruce





   _____

From: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aaron McDonald
Sent: 2009-04-03 14:13
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Fuel and Oil again...



OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out.
First on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an
auto parts store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders
reccommend, but I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.

Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no
longer carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OK, a couple more questions about fuel and oil if anyone can help me out. First
on the oil... what weight should I be using that I can get at like an auto parts
store? I know I should be usinig the stuff that engine builders reccommend, but
I'm in a crunch to get it sooner as opposed to later.

Now on fuel... I've been getting 110 octane from a Shell staion here that is
close to the local dirt track. I found out this morning that they are no longer
carrying the 110. What is my next best option for fuel?

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, nosrednanhoj <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
>  anybody have the results from the desmoines pull?
>
The Prairie website isn't updated yet with those results.

anybody have the results from the desmoines pull?

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, dagwood558 <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
> i am looking for an engine a k241 or k301 for my cub 1000....can even be
stock....just as long as it has a cheater cam in it...also lookin for some
pulling wheels and tires 4 the rear
>
I have a new shortblock with a new k361 cam in it, haven't finished this engine
yet, needs just a few exterior items to be complete. SE Iowa
Kyle

what size tires u looking for........i have a like new set of 23*1050*12
carisles  $150.00

--- On Tue, 3/31/09, pullingtractor@... <pullingtractor@...> wrote:


From: pullingtractor@... <pullingtractor@...>
Subject: Re: [Garden Tractor Pulling] k241 or k301
To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 31, 2009, 9:33 PM






I can build a strong K241 engine for you if you're interested. Send me an
email & let's talk.

In a message dated 3/31/2009 6:24:45 PM Central Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroup s.com writes: > i am looking for an engine a k241 or k301
for my cub
> 1000....can even be stock....just as long as it has a cheater cam in it...also
> lookin for some pulling wheels and tires 4 the rear

************ **
A Good Credit
> Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
> (http://pr.atwola. com/promoclk/ 100126575x122043 9616x1201372437/ aol?redir=
http:%2F% 2Fwww.freecredit re
> port.com%2Fpm% 2Fdefault. aspx%3Fsc% 3D668072% 26hmpgID% 3D62%26bcd%
3Dfebemailfoot
> erNO62)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]