I have a wheel horse 310-8 that I would like to pull in the stock
class. Can anyone send me a picture of a wheelie bar and pulling
hitch setup they have on something similar or any ideas on what I
should do to the tractor to start off?

Make your small block (18-22hp) or big block (23-29hp) Kawasaki
water-cooled v-twin pulling engine come to life with our new high
performance valve springs and pushrods. If you are turning high RPMs
and have problems with "valve float" or bending pushrods then these
are the parts you need. We have engines that are regularly turning
8,000-9,500RPMs with no failures. Complete matching set of pushrods
and valve springs are $80 plus shipping. We have other parts
available. Call Frank Edwards at 276-236-5305 for more information.

I am wondering if any one can help me find the engine specs on all of the engine
manufacturers--i.e. torque rpm load/unload torques and rpm's etc. such as
tecumseh--kohler--briggs--onan,etc I have gotten a few from some of their
websites but nothing that is very comprehensive. tnx--Bud

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "seb fontana"
<speedoo51@y...> wrote:
>
>   I need to find a source of rachet tie downs that work!! Every one
> I try seems to be junk!!

try sams club or www.awdirect.com  towing supply in berlin ct

In a message dated 11/28/04 7:49:58 PM Central Standard Time,
bbwater63@... writes: > Hello All, first post and looking for a good place
to buy
> rebuild parts for my Kohler engines.. Any and all help welcome.. Just started
> pulling last year and the first tractor I put togeather was a stock Wheel
Horse
> and it is going to need rebuilt this year..Bought the tractor for 150.00 and
> my daughter pulled all season with it in 2 different classes..Thanks a lot,,
> Bill B.
>
Here's a few places to start:
A-1 Miller's Small Engine & Specialty Shop (
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/a1miller.htm)
Lakota Racing (http://www.lakotaracing.com/)
Midwest Super Cub (http://www.midwestsupercub.net/)
Vogel Manufacturing Co. (http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/)
Nichols Performance (http://www.geocities.com/nicholsperformance2002/)
J & S Enterprises (http://members.aol.com/tractorpulling/j-s/catalog.htm)
Amstutz Pulling Parts (http://www.adamswells.com/~amstutzfurn/)
TJ Performance - High Performance Pulling Components (
http://members.aol.com/tractorpulling/tjperf/tjperf.htm)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello All,
           first post and looking for a good place to buy rebuild parts
for my Kohler engines.. Any and all help welcome.. Just started
pulling last year and the first  tractor I put togeather was a stock
Wheel Horse and it is going to need rebuilt this year.. Bought the
tractor for 150.00 and my daughter pulled all season with it in 2
different classes..                                   Thanks a lot,,
                                                   Bill B.

In a message dated 11/28/04 11:56:27 AM Central Standard Time,
hillbillygoat04@... writes: > well what if im not using the counter
weights and the
> balancing gears?
>
You can remove the balance gears from the crankcase. They have no effect on
how the engine runs. But you MUST use the counter weights because they're
molded onto the [cast iron] crankshaft. Unless you used a saw & cut them off. In
that case, the engine would self-destruct in no time.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well what if im not useing the counter weights and the balanceing
gears?

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, pullingtractor@a...
wrote:
> In a message dated 11/27/04 8:55:21 PM Central Standard Time,
> no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes: > --- In
gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com,
> > "hillbillygoat04" <hillbillygoat04@y...> wrote: >well what if im
not using the counter
> > weights? >
> > >>  U don't want those counter weights in a pulling motor, cause
one lets
> > go, U will destroy the block,  Merv
>
> Counter weights & balance gears are two entirely different things.
The
> counter weights are part of the crankshaft. They're opposite of the
crank pin. And
> the balance gears install & rotate on pins inside the crankcase.
They reduce
> the side thrust of the counter weights that's on the crankshaft.
> >
> >  Yeah , Balance gears is what i meant , the only counter weights
that can be removed is the aftermarket steel crank , I got a coffee
can full of em , I always remove em , its a part of the normal
rebuild process , they are like hangernades waiten to destruck ,
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/27/04 8:55:21 PM Central Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes: > --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com,
> "hillbillygoat04" <hillbillygoat04@y...> wrote: >well what if im not using the
counter
> weights? >
> >>  U don't want those counter weights in a pulling motor, cause one lets
> go, U will destroy the block,  Merv

Counter weights & balance gears are two entirely different things. The
counter weights are part of the crankshaft. They're opposite of the crank pin.
And
the balance gears install & rotate on pins inside the crankcase. They reduce
the side thrust of the counter weights that's on the crankshaft.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/27/04 7:36:47 PM Central Standard Time,
hillbillygoat04@... writes: > well what if im not using the counter
weights?
>
You mean the balance gears. The counter weights are part of the crankshaft.
They're opposite of the crank pin.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "hillbillygoat04"
<hillbillygoat04@y...> wrote:
>
> well what if im not useing the counter weights?
> >
> >   U don't want those counter weights in a pulling motor , cause
one lets go , U will destroy the block ,  Merv

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "hillbillygoat04"
<hillbillygoat04@y...> wrote:
>
> well what if im not useing the counter weights?
> >
> >   Of all the kohler engines , the 14hp. has the most problems
with vibration , I know of a few guys that had there motors
balanced , & that took care of it , all ya need to do is get the
crank & flywheel , & anything thing else thats on the crank , pulley,
driver , etc. , Merv

well what if im not useing the counter weights?

Do other pulling organizations use a written contract with their
pull hosts?  If so what all do you include and if at all possible
could I get a copy?
Thank You,
Paul
jd285@...

In a message dated 11/26/04 7:44:54 PM Central Standard Time,
grumpy@... writes: > Ha Brian, Thanks for the info over the phone the
other nite. It
> works great. It starts better than it ever has. Grumpy
>
You're welcome. I do my best to give the most accurate information that I
can.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ha Brian,
Thanks for the info over the phone the other nite. It works great. It
starts better than it ever has.
Grumpy

In a message dated 11/26/04 4:05:08 PM Central Standard Time,
hillbillygoat04@... writes: > If you bore a 12 hp block out to house a 14
piston will
> the balance of the crank and rod and piston be off. i read that it will. what
> can be done to make this work. will i have to balance the crank or anything??
>
>
The 12hp crankshaft counterweights are balanced lighter than the 14hp cranks.
Therefore, you'll need to add more weight to the 12hp's counterweights for
the heavier 14hp piston assembly, use a 14hp or 16hp crankshaft.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you bore a 12 hp block out to house a 14 piston will the balance
of the crank and rod and piston be off.  i read that it will.  what
can be done to make this work. will i have to balance the crank or
anything??

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Allan" <beehive46@y...>
wrote:
>
> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, a57289 <no_reply@y...>
> wrote:
> >   Hey Allen  , I pulled a 1650 with a 20hp. command & had good
results , to make a hydro pull U need to change the linkage so U have
more travel & smoother speed change , 1st is remove the peddle
linkage & mechanism on the swash arm , replace it with a rod directly
to the swash arm & drill a hole in the swash arm to fasten to , its
also nice to have the rod adjustable , drill a new hole where it
fastens under the dash 1" closer to where it pivets , now U got
better control of the hydro , about 1" for reverse & 3-4" of slide
for foward  , nows when the fun begins , Merv
> >
> > have pulled a hydro.will take all the r's you can get.the
shifting
> > is to irratic for a smooth pull.need a lower ring and pinion
ratio.
> I have also pulled a cub cadet 1650 with a hydro, and it does take
> everything that a stock motor can produce to make it pull.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, a57289 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
>
> have pulled a hydro.will take all the r's you can get.the shifting
> is to irratic for a smooth pull.need a lower ring and pinion ratio.
I have also pulled a cub cadet 1650 with a hydro, and it does take
everything that a stock motor can produce to make it pull.

i am from goldsboro NC. if anyone is interested in anything let me
know. thanks, matt   eazyriden@...

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, jon steffen
<cosmocub79@y...> wrote:
> where are you from fullpullwolf
>
>
> fullpullwolf <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> cleaning house...all pulling items forsale
> -1200 cubcadet stock class puller. completely rebuilt 20hp kohler
> command. new clutch assembley stock reinforced rear. 8" douglas w/
> tri ribs up front, 26x12x12 carlisles cut on back. new cub paint
job.
> custom aluminum hitch,wheelie bars,& back and belly weight
brackets.
> nice & strong tractor. $2800negotiable only pulled a few times
since
> rebuilt.
> -1200 cub frame no rear clutch or engine. $150 obo
> -cub cadet rear,3 speed, stock mint condition. complete $175 obo
> - modified/mini rod puller. custom frame with a gs1000 suzuki shaft
> drive engine. dyna coils and revlimiter. 8.8 plug wires and brand
new
> individual air filters. slightly larger jets and timing advanced
some
> but can be advanced more or retarded some. 4into1 header. 3speed
ford
> trans coupled to a narrowed 9 inch ford rear.(locked) new rims and
> lawntec tires. cub fenders and custom cub hood with scoop. custom
cub
> grill or mtd (lightweight) or run it open. 18,000 rpm tach and
> electric fuel pump. steel hitch. runs sprockets and chain from
> motorcycle shaft to ford trans shaft. strong tractor. $2300 obo
> -new style cub cadetdont know the number looks like the ones in
> stores now. no engine clutch or rear. $150obo
> -some misc. cub stuff gas tanks etc.. ask if u need anything.
> thanks, matt
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

where are you from fullpullwolf


fullpullwolf <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

cleaning house...all pulling items forsale
-1200 cubcadet stock class puller. completely rebuilt 20hp kohler
command. new clutch assembley stock reinforced rear. 8" douglas w/
tri ribs up front, 26x12x12 carlisles cut on back. new cub paint job.
custom aluminum hitch,wheelie bars,& back and belly weight brackets.
nice & strong tractor. $2800negotiable only pulled a few times since
rebuilt.
-1200 cub frame no rear clutch or engine. $150 obo
-cub cadet rear,3 speed, stock mint condition. complete $175 obo
- modified/mini rod puller. custom frame with a gs1000 suzuki shaft
drive engine. dyna coils and revlimiter. 8.8 plug wires and brand new
individual air filters. slightly larger jets and timing advanced some
but can be advanced more or retarded some. 4into1 header. 3speed ford
trans coupled to a narrowed 9 inch ford rear.(locked) new rims and
lawntec tires. cub fenders and custom cub hood with scoop. custom cub
grill or mtd (lightweight) or run it open. 18,000 rpm tach and
electric fuel pump. steel hitch. runs sprockets and chain from
motorcycle shaft to ford trans shaft. strong tractor. $2300 obo
-new style cub cadetdont know the number looks like the ones in
stores now. no engine clutch or rear. $150obo
-some misc. cub stuff gas tanks etc.. ask if u need anything.
thanks, matt




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

jon and kate schmidt <ukusa41@...> wrote:I have a Midwest Super Cub clutch
kit for sale
metallic clutch disc PRT No. MD New
steel clutch pressure plates PRT No.PP New ( they have lite rust on them for
setting}
six lug driver aluminum New
yellow clutch spring PRT No. HDY New
4140 hardened drive shaft New
1 drive shaft split collar
3 spiral drive shaft pins 1/4''
$250 local pick up only I'm in central Illinois email me with any questions or
pictures at
ukusa41@...



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jon and kate schmidt <ukusa41@...> wrote:I have for sale a complete rear
end for a Cub Cadet set up for Midwest Super Cub
carrier it is not put together it is all new neaver used what all comes with is:
Super Cub do it yourself kit prt No. D725Y New
Transmission gear set with 3 pulling gears 24,25,&26 New
4 speed shift forks Prt No.SF4 New
spacer kit for bottom shaft
axles sleeves have been machined for the bigger bearing
the transaxle housing has been machined for the Dodge carrier & transmission
gear set
$800 for the complete rear end all it needs is be a put to gether
local pick up only I'm in central Illinois email me with any question or
pictures
at ukusa41@...


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

cleaning house...all pulling items forsale
-1200 cubcadet stock class puller. completely rebuilt 20hp kohler
command. new clutch assembley stock reinforced rear. 8" douglas w/
tri ribs up front, 26x12x12 carlisles cut on back. new cub paint job.
custom aluminum hitch,wheelie bars,& back and belly weight brackets.
nice & strong tractor. $2800negotiable only pulled a few times since
rebuilt.
-1200 cub frame no rear clutch or engine. $150 obo
-cub cadet rear,3 speed, stock mint condition. complete $175 obo
- modified/mini rod puller. custom frame with a gs1000 suzuki shaft
drive engine. dyna coils and revlimiter. 8.8 plug wires and brand new
individual air filters. slightly larger jets and timing advanced some
but can be advanced more or retarded some. 4into1 header. 3speed ford
trans coupled to a narrowed 9 inch ford rear.(locked) new rims and
lawntec tires. cub fenders and custom cub hood with scoop. custom cub
grill or mtd (lightweight) or run it open. 18,000 rpm tach and
electric fuel pump. steel hitch. runs sprockets and chain from
motorcycle shaft to ford trans shaft. strong tractor. $2300 obo
-new style cub cadetdont know the number looks like the ones in
stores now. no engine clutch or rear. $150obo
-some misc. cub stuff gas tanks etc.. ask if u need anything.
thanks, matt

I have 3 of these,2 stock and 1 that has been milled and opened up. I
run the one on a 14 S/A and it did good. Now it's on a 12 sport stock
and still doing a good job.

In a message dated 11/19/04 4:28:17 PM Central Standard Time,
gxfricke@... writes: > How do you tell an LP head from the others?

Here's how:  Information about the Cylinder Head on Single Cylinder Kohler
Engines http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/cylhead.htm


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

How do you tell an LP head from the others?
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Iruossim
   To: gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, November 19, 2004 5:38 AM
   Subject: Re: [Garden Tractor Pulling] Re: "LP" high compresion head


   Look around a litte bit better while your searching on
   e-bay. I bought an early model LP head for 22.05
   including S&H on e-bay just last week. The seller
   didn't advertise it as an LP head.

   They only showed the top view. After asking the seller
   to e-mail myself a photo of the under side of the head
   did I know it was an LP head.

   Also look up joe's outdoor products when your on
   e-bay, send him a reply and ask him if he has any more
   LP heads, I have bought two from him in the past 6
   months for under 30 dollars.

   --- pullingtractor@... wrote:

   > I noticed that a 10hp "LP" head went for $201.00 on
   > eBay the other day. Dang,
   > if someone were to cast these suckers themselves &
   > offer them to the public,
   > they could retire early in life!   lol
   >
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been
   > removed]
   >
   >




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dang ,  I'll have to get the four out of the parts box and put them
on ebay.  Maybe I can afford a new set of tires !
baerpath
--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, pullingtractor@a...
wrote:
> I noticed that a 10hp "LP" head went for $201.00 on eBay the other
day. Dang,
> if someone were to cast these suckers themselves & offer them to
the public,
> they could retire early in life!   lol
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]