i was wanting to enter my tractor into pulls but i have 35" ground
hawgs and it ways close to a ton. i was wondering if there is
anything i can enter this into. it has a single cyl. 16hp briggs on
it. and i know it has over a 5163 pull/jurk strength. i broke my
carabiener pulling my car from over the hill.
thanks
joel

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "hillbillygoat04"
<hillbillygoat04@y...> wrote:
>
> For pulling only, not lawn mowing. What is the best carb to use on
a
> kinda stock, kinda not stock k-301.the 26 or the 30. and what head
> is better for pulling the one with the plug right over the exaouhst
> valve or the one with the plug in between the two valves?
> >
> >  There are two 30s , the 14hp. which is a 15/16" ventura & the
16hp. is 1" , the 14hp. makes more torque than the 16hp. or the 26 ,
it has been said that the head with the plug over the valve , but I
have not dynoed them to know how much , maybe this winter I'll get a
change to ,   Merv

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "lee;" <bolee30@y...>
wrote:
>
> Which of these blocks are better for pulling? And why?
> >
> >  The 13 has a thicker cylinder wall & if U are boring it past the
stock bore , then the 13 is better , but for stock bores a 12 is
fine , Merv

For pulling only, not lawn mowing. What is the best carb to use on a
kinda stock, kinda not stock k-301.the 26 or the 30. and what head
is better for pulling the one with the plug right over the exaouhst
valve or the one with the plug in between the two valves?

Pictures from Friday at Winchester NQS pull posted on
www.gtpulling.com
Nick

Which of these blocks are better for pulling? And why?

Hi Matt..My son and I pull 700 series ACs with the Bi State little
pullers club in SE Iowa/WS Illinois and we hold our own with them. My
son in the 10 horse stock placed 2nd in the over all points
championship ..and in the 14 horse altered I got 1st in the
points ..the tractors can be seen in the photo section of this site
under the names Haulin Allis and LiL Ace. also have a simplicity with
a AC hood that is 1st in points in the stock class 14 but dont have
pics of it ..so I think ACs make great little pullers..


Marc


--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, fullpullwolf
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
>
> i have found a old allis-chalmers garden tractor. it is a shaft
drive
> and looks heavy duty. i have not looked at it good but it has
garden
> plows and stuff. i am just wondering if anyone has any info on this
> kind of gt. is it worth restoring or converting to a puller? any
info
> would be great, thanks  matt smith

Way back when my sons started with a 210 JD  drop the deck, change
the tires (26x12x12 double cut), bolt a hitch and go.  Only problem
is the 200 series is heavy.  100 series is a lot lighter We still
pull a 112 8hp.  Only blew one trans in 6 yrs. But I have 3 spares
just in case.  baerpath

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, konzacowboy
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
>
> I want to get started in GT pulling and I'm looking for the right
> base tractor to build from.  I want to run a true JD and I was
> wondering what kind of starting point I would have with a 210-214
> belt drive tractor?  Anyone using these models as a puller?  Is the
> transmission up to the task?  Any comments or thoughts would be
> appreciated.

an allis chamler is one of the best pulling tractors i'v won several
championships and many other pulls with mine and its a b1 10 1958 called pullers
nightmare so yes allis chamlers are a great choice for tractor pulling

fullpullwolf <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
i have found a old allis-chalmers garden tractor. it is a shaft drive
and looks heavy duty. i have not looked at it good but it has garden
plows and stuff. i am just wondering if anyone has any info on this
kind of gt. is it worth restoring or converting to a puller? any info
would be great, thanks  matt smith




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I want to get started in GT pulling and I'm looking for the right
base tractor to build from.  I want to run a true JD and I was
wondering what kind of starting point I would have with a 210-214
belt drive tractor?  Anyone using these models as a puller?  Is the
transmission up to the task?  Any comments or thoughts would be
appreciated.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, a57289 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
>
> have pulled a hydro.will take all the r's you can get.the shifting
> is to irratic for a smooth pull.need a lower ring and pinion ratio.
> >
> > I've pulled a cub 1650 with a command 20hp. v-twin a few years &
had good luck , but theres a few things that need to be done to make
a hydro pull good , 1st remove the spring assy./neutral mechanisem on
the hydro & drill a hole in the swosh arm & connect the 1/4" rod to
it , then drill a hole a new hole closer to the focrum of the shaft
under the dash where the 1/4" rod connects , this will allow the
forward/reverse lever more swing , giving U about 1/2" of reverse &
the rest is all forward , neutral is not in the center anymore , now
U can feather yer speed changes without too much hydro or toomuch
rpm , this also changes where reverse & foward are , forward is now
pulling toward U & is ideal when U are leaning back & need to make a
speed change , I extended my lever 6" , this cub was a blast on
asphalt , with the rpm at 4-5k. then pulling the big stick to full
bore in about 2 sec. , till about 3/4 the way down the track , then
bump it forward about 1/4" , thus raisen the rpm 1k. , the only
problems I had was in the 1100 & 1200 lb. class in dirt , the hydro
wanted to slip , the hydro was more competive on asphalt than dirt ,
Merv

In a message dated 11/2/04 11:31:20 PM Central Standard Time,
supercub@... writes: > Brian, It depends on what goes wrong with the
engine.
> Typically if the engine is taken care of (oil changes, timing adjustments and
valve
> adjustments) these engines are quite reliable. So if the engine has been
> taken care of we will stand behind our engines for a period of one pulling
> season. Julian
>
Thanks, Julian. Sounds like an excellent warranty.

Brian Miller


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Brian,

It depends on what goes wrong with the engine.  Typically if the
engine is taken care of (oil changes, timing adjustments and valve
adjustments) these engines are quite reliable.  So if the engine has
been taken care of we will stand behind our engines for a period of
one pulling season.

Julian
--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, pullingtractor@a...
wrote:
> In a message dated 11/2/04 12:11:31 AM Central Standard Time,
> supercub@c... writes: > We stand behind all of our crate engines.
We had one person
> > who had a rod bearing flake off (Clevite 77, we now use Federal
Mogul) after
> > about a year, it destroyed the crank and rod and scuffed the
piston. We
> > replaced the bad parts and ate the labor at no charge to the
customer.
> >
> Thanks for the response. But how long do you stand behind your
engines? And
> what all is guaranteed on or in them?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It took me about a month, but I finally posted pictures from
Princeton, IN NQS pull. You can view these pictures at
www.gtpulling.com
Nick

i just posted three photos of my first attempt at building a puller
for my 10 yr. old grandson. it is a lawn chief 14 hp. briggs twin cyl
vangard motor. belt drive but i put a heavier clutch spring on it.now
i just have to add the weights to it.he will be ready for next season.
   Now i get to start on my own..a 12 hp case with a kohler engine or
  a wheelhorse C-111 with a 10 hp kohler

have pulled a hydro.will take all the r's you can get.the shifting
is to irratic for a smooth pull.need a lower ring and pinion ratio.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, fullpullwolf
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
>
> i have found a old allis-chalmers garden tractor. it is a shaft
drive
> and looks heavy duty. i have not looked at it good but it has
garden
> plows and stuff. i am just wondering if anyone has any info on
this
> kind of gt. is it worth restoring or converting to a puller? any
info
> would be great, thanks  matt smith         Matt i own a 1962 allis
b-1 and i made a puller out of it. its a great puller. theres
pictures of it in this group. bryan

i have found a old allis-chalmers garden tractor. it is a shaft drive
and looks heavy duty. i have not looked at it good but it has garden
plows and stuff. i am just wondering if anyone has any info on this
kind of gt. is it worth restoring or converting to a puller? any info
would be great, thanks  matt smith

just wondering if anyone out there has pulled with a cub hydro, and
how many rpm's they will take and still survive
Matt

All kidding aside, most engine builders that I know will stand
behind their engine if something "odd" happens, say like the cam
breaks right away. Our engine builder did at one point and I know
that MVP does also like Julian said, with the rod bearing instance I
know it was taken care of right away. See you at Winchester,
Nick


--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, pullingtractor@a...
wrote:
> In a message dated 11/2/04 12:11:31 AM Central Standard Time,
> supercub@c... writes: > We stand behind all of our crate engines.
We had one person
> > who had a rod bearing flake off (Clevite 77, we now use Federal
Mogul) after
> > about a year, it destroyed the crank and rod and scuffed the
piston. We
> > replaced the bad parts and ate the labor at no charge to the
customer.
> >
> Thanks for the response. But how long do you stand behind your
engines? And
> what all is guaranteed on or in them?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/2/04 12:11:31 AM Central Standard Time,
supercub@... writes: > We stand behind all of our crate engines. We had
one person
> who had a rod bearing flake off (Clevite 77, we now use Federal Mogul) after
> about a year, it destroyed the crank and rod and scuffed the piston. We
> replaced the bad parts and ate the labor at no charge to the customer.
>
Thanks for the response. But how long do you stand behind your engines? And
what all is guaranteed on or in them?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We stand behind all of our crate engines.  We had one person who had
a rod bearing flake off (Clevite 77, we now use Federal Mogul) after
about a year, it destoryed the crank and rod and scuffed the
piston.  We replaced the bad parts and ate the labor at no charge to
the customer.

--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Miller"
<pullingtractor@a...> wrote:
>
> What kind of warranty do most professional engine builders offer
on
> their crate pulling engines, and also stock engines? I've always
> wondered about this. Any response would be appreciated.

Once you hit the key and it goes vrooooom, warranty is over it's
yours!    :)
Nick



What kind of warranty do most professional engine builders offer on
their crate pulling engines, and also stock engines? I've always
wondered about this. Any response would be appreciated.

hey guys i am interested in selling this tractor. the metal is
straight and not much rust at all. it is complete even with mowing
deck.im located in raliegh north carolina. if interested im me at
bigb27529 on yahoo messenger. thanks for any interest,scott

$250 -$350 depending on condition would be my guess.


bigb27529 wrote:

>
> hey guy i just aquired a 122 cub cadet with a 42 inch cutting deck.
> the tractor is all original with the 12 horse kohler. was wondering
> what this thing would be worth. thanks for any replies.
>                                                    scott
>
>
>
>
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wanted:
a rolling chassis of a cub cadet with a manual tranny
need from flywheel back don't care if it has tires or rusty but
complete with out the motor unless a big block
would like to find one in northwest northcentral iowa
thank's
jon

wanted:
a rolling chassis of a cub cadet with a manual tranny
need from flywheel back don't care if it has tires or rusty but
complete with out the motor unless a big block
would like to find one in northwest northcentral iowa
thank's
jon

Geo

I looked at one of the websites you have listed.

Question is this CVT similiar to a varydrive system? The vary drive
system is used on a few tractors that I know of. The Bigger name
tractors that I know of are John Deere, and Massey Ferguson. They
have gear drive trans and a varydrive hooked up to them. They can be
started out in one range of the varydrive and as more power is needs
and be shifted on the fly to allow the pully system to give the
engine more torque or power. Thus changing the ratio of the drive
system.

Is this what this CVT is like. If so I have seen at some pulls this
tractors do well, depending on the experience of the driver and the
hook-up at the time.

Thanks

Joe













--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, george3476
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
>
> you guys have been talkin' pros/cons 'bout hydros, belt and gear
> driven drivetrains but i haven't seen anyone trying a CVT or
> snowmobile setup on a single or twin. we have a 1400lb. 800cc
> snowmobile powered Modified that runs with and frequently beats
> tractors with 2.3L. and motorcycle engines, I attribute a lot of
that
> to it's clutch system, with traction being a KEY component in a
> successful pull especially with the higher horsepower Pro/Super
> Stockers trying to hook to the track, a lot of the Pros and Supers
> slip the clutch alot to launch so I'd think the sled setup would be
> more consistent as you'd always be in the "right gear" and it'd
also
> be easier to build a low rider. Any other opinions on this ??  Geo
>
> http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1033&location_id=542
> http://cvt.com.sapo.pt/toc_en.htm
> http://cvt.com.sapo.pt/MCVT/MCVT.htm
> http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/torquemain.htm  102C ??
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cvtcontinuouslyvariabletransm

What kind of warranty do most professional engine builders offer on
their crate pulling engines, and also stock engines? I've always
wondered about this. Any response would be appreciated.

Stephan

Is it my understanding that you are saying all hydros do not have the
power of gear trans, or just the one in the Case220?

I believe that some hydros do have the power needed for the tough
jobs of what tractor can do.

For instance the Wheel Horse D250 D200 D180  do these not have hydron
trans in them. I believe at least some do and with the power needed
for the tash that these larger Wheel Horses where made for Wheel
Horse must have thought that the hydro trans could get the job done.

However I do believe that there are alot of hydro trans that cannot
get the job done like a gear trans could. Now with that in mind, if a
hydro trans was used in a tractor that could not get the job done, I
would have to think if that tractor was available with a gear trans
it would also be unsuitable for groud engaging equipment as well as
for pulling.

Just some thoughts and opinions on one verses the other.

Joe













--- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, steve erlbacher
<stephan_beaver@y...> wrote:
> here my two cents. due to thte low efienc y of a hydro pump it will
take more power and a bigger pump create the torque of a gear drive.
> stephan

>
> Marc Charbonneaux <5charb@m...> wrote:
>
> I,m not sure if theres a difference in the theory, but I dont think
> the Case is not a true hydrostatic drive..but more of a seperate
> hydrolic pump / hydrolic motor driving the trans with a two way
> veriable hand control. (no swash plates or charge valves ect.)
>
> Marc.
>
> --- In gardentractorpulling@yahoogroups.com, pullingtractor@a...
> wrote:
> > In a message dated 10/31/04 12:32:02 PM Central Standard Time,
> > gunrunr298@y... writes: > hey guys, can anyone tell me the pros
and
> cons of pulling
> > > with a hydro trans compared to a gear unit.i just got 3 new
> tractors and want to
> > > build two for pulling. one is a c-111 wheelhorse with gears but
> the other is
> > > a Case 222 with a 12 hp kohler and a hydro trans.is this trans
> good enough
> > > for pulling or do i need to upgrade it.
> > >
> > Why hydrostatic drives don't work well for pulling competition -
> >
> > The hydrostatic pump on most garden tractors can't produce enough
> pressure to
> > overcome the force needed to drive the hydrostatic motor needed
in
> pulling
> > competition. Manufacturers install hydrostatic units that is just
> right for
> > normal conditions (mowing grass, light hauling, etc.). If a
person
> were to install
> > a larger pump (one that produces more pressure) just for pulling,
> they would
> > definitely need a much larger engine, too. But, most pulling
rules
> limit the
> > engine size in any particular class. And, one would probably
still
> have
> > problems. So until someone can come up with something better...
the
> ol' mechanical
> > gears/clutch or belt drive system works best for pulling.
> >
> > For more information, go here:  Introduction to the World of
Garden
> Tractor
> > Pulling http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/intro.htm
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
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