I haven't used any SLA batteries, but BB Battery makes some sold by
NYcewheels and others.  Might also want to look into Silicone batteries.


http://nycewheels.com/batteries1.html

Eric

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "jim58ba2000" <jim58ba@...> wrote:
>
> Almost 2 months since my last post but my cyclone kit finally arrived
> from overseas. Looks simple enough but didn't come with battries. I
> know that I will need to start with SLA because of the cost, may be
> able to upgrade after the gas savings start to add up but for now
> can't go another several hundred dollars for battries. Any
> recomendations on good SLA batteries to use? I have the 500 Watt kit
> so I am thinking I will need to run at least a 20AH pack?
>
> Thanks
> Jim
>

Almost 2 months since my last post but my cyclone kit finally arrived
from overseas. Looks simple enough but didn't come with battries. I
know that I will need to start with SLA because of the cost, may be
able to upgrade after the gas savings start to add up but for now
can't go another several hundred dollars for battries. Any
recomendations on good SLA batteries to use? I have the 500 Watt kit
so I am thinking I will need to run at least a 20AH pack?

Thanks
Jim

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Garvey" <lazybee45@...>
wrote:
>
> hi Jim!
>
> I have not had much experience with internal hubs as such, but the
newer
> ones seem to have the same sturdy qualities as the older ones did.
I had a
> 7 speed hub for a while and it seemed to be OK and the same with a
3 speed
> with an 8 speed cassette on it.  THAT was an interesting wheel!
Actually I
> had a pair of them!  a 26 inch and a 20 inch.  Both were quite
sturdy.
>
> Mostly I have used multi speed bikes myself because I have found
them pretty
> bulletproof most of the time.  also easy to fix if things do go
Wahoonie
> shaped.   the biggest problem with the "10 speed racers" is that
they were
> 10 speed racers!  Two things to remember arre that MOST "racing"
bikes are
> built lighter and hence more fragile, and that racers are often
relatively
> experimental bikes.  a mountain bike will be a much sturdier set up
as will
> a bike intended for more utilitarian use.  I happen to prefer
sturdy over
> fast mostly too.
>
> Personally my Currie works quite well.  It is off the bike at the
moment
> because the charger went TU on me and a friend is fixing it.  but I
would
> suggest looking at the Cyclone motor the 360 or 500 either one
would be fine
> I think unless you are more portly than I am! (I weigh 240 more or
less!)
> It is placed in the chain line of a bike or trike and drives the
chain.  The
> Stokemonkey does the same thing.  This means that you MUST pedal
with the
> motor unless you have a freewheeling crank, and there seems to have
been a
> bit of difficulty with those recently.
>
> I have never had difficulty with pedaling when the motor is running
honestly
> though my motor freewheels well so that I don't have to worry about
it.   If
> you can find a used Currie, they are a nice unit too, but they are
getting
> hard to find!
>
> mark
>
> On 7/4/07, jim58ba2000 <jim58ba@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com <ebikebuilders%
40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Mark Garvey" <lazybee45@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > On 7/1/07, jim58ba2000 <jim58ba@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Mark: Thanks for the quick response, any recomendations for
the
> > best
> > > > set up? The Currie drive is not one of those hub motors right?
> > Have
> > > > you had any problems riding in the rain?
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Jim: I have not really ridden in the rain in all honesty, at
> > least not
> > > the way you might think. I have ridden the trike with a Velokit
on
> > it in
> > > the rain but that hardly counts! the Velokit keeps the rider dry
> > and the
> > > motor only gets a bit of mist from splashing and stuff. the
> > mountain bike
> > > is unpleasant to ride in the rain!
> > >
> > > The Currie is a motor that bolts onto a 36 spoke X3 wheel so it
not
> > exactly
> > > a "hub motor" it is a chain drive to an attachment on the hub. I
> > have been
> > > very satisfied with mine. But Currie is no longer importing e-
> > bike "kits"
> > > to the USA. EV Deals may have them still, but I don't think so.
> > The best
> > > bet these days in my opinion is the Cyclone which puts the
motor in
> > the
> > > chainline so that you have all the rear wheel gears. Making the
> > motor much
> > > more efficient. That extends the range as well.
> > >
> > > mark
> > >
> > > .
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > "Human Misery is caused by human expectations." Buddha
> > >
> > > Mark Garvey
> > > Cedar Rapids, Iowa free state!
> > >
> > > Check out the web site at:
> > > http://www.vine-ave.com
> > >
> > > contact us to have INVISIBLE INC! appear at your next program!
> > Details at
> > > www.vine-ave.com
> > >
> > > I am a bicycling lifestylist!
> >
> > Hi Mark: Riding in the rain didn't seem to bother me much last
year,
> > ok I wasn't too excited about slipping & sliding on wet leaves
last
> > fall but the rain itself was never a big problem, I was just
> > wondering if e-bikes have a potential problem with anything
shorting
> > out if it gets wet or if the set up is pretty well sealed.
> >
> > Powering it through the gears sounds like it would give me a lot
more
> > flexability than a hub motor and if I can peddle along with the
motor
> > and not have to choose the motor or me that would be way cool! I
may
> > be dating myself here but when I was a kid I rode an "english
racer"
> > with a sturmey-archer 3 speed hub. While my buddies and I were
hard
> > on our bikes, with lots of flat tires and bent spokes, that hub
was
> > bullit proof. When I got a little older and had "10-speeds" they
> > didn't seem to hold up as well as the internally geared hubs and
> > always needed to be fussed with to keep the chain tension right
and
> > drivetrain components bent back into alingment. So now I am
wondering
> > if a sturmy-archer hub could stand up to the motor. Any experince
> > with these?
> >
> > Jim
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> "Human Misery is caused by human expectations."  Buddah
>
> Mark  Garvey
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa free state!
>
> Check out the web site at:
> http://www.vine-ave.com
>
> contact us to have INVISIBLE INC! appear at your next program!
Details at
> www.vine-ave.com
>
> I am a bicycling lifestylist!
>

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Garvey" <lazybee45@...>
wrote:
>
> On 7/1/07, jim58ba2000 <jim58ba@...> wrote:
> >
> >   Mark: Thanks for the quick response, any recomendations for the
best
> > set up? The Currie drive is not one of those hub motors right?
Have
> > you had any problems riding in the rain?
> >
> > Jim
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Jim:  I have not really ridden in the rain in all honesty, at
least not
> the way you might think.  I have ridden the trike with a Velokit on
it in
> the rain but that hardly counts!  the Velokit keeps the rider dry
and the
> motor only gets a bit of mist from splashing and stuff.  the
mountain bike
> is unpleasant to ride in the rain!
>
> The Currie is a motor that bolts onto a 36 spoke X3 wheel so it not
exactly
> a "hub motor" it is a chain drive to an attachment on the hub.  I
have been
> very satisfied with mine.  But Currie is no longer importing e-
bike "kits"
> to the USA.  EV Deals may have them still, but I don't think so.
The best
> bet these days in my opinion is the Cyclone which puts the motor in
the
> chainline so that you have all the rear wheel gears.  Making the
motor much
> more efficient.  That extends the range as well.
>
> mark
>
> .
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> "Human Misery is caused by human expectations."  Buddha
>
> Mark  Garvey
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa free state!
>
> Check out the web site at:
> http://www.vine-ave.com
>
> contact us to have INVISIBLE INC! appear at your next program!
Details at
> www.vine-ave.com
>
> I am a bicycling lifestylist!

Hi Mark: Riding in the rain didn't seem to bother me much last year,
ok I wasn't too excited about slipping & sliding on wet leaves last
fall but the rain itself was never a big problem, I was just
wondering if e-bikes have a potential problem with anything shorting
out if it gets wet or if the set up is pretty well sealed.

Powering it through the gears sounds like it would give me a lot more
flexability than a hub motor and if I can peddle along with the motor
and not have to choose the motor or me that would be way cool! I may
be dating myself here but when I was a kid I rode an "english racer"
with a sturmey-archer 3 speed hub. While my buddies and I were hard
on our bikes, with lots of flat tires and bent spokes, that hub was
bullit proof. When I got a little older and had "10-speeds" they
didn't seem to hold up as well as the internally geared hubs and
always needed to be fussed with to keep the chain tension right and
drivetrain components bent back into alingment. So now I am wondering
if a sturmy-archer hub could stand up to the motor. Any experince
with these?

Jim
>

Mark: Thanks for the quick response, any recomendations for the best
set up? The Currie drive is not one of those hub motors right? Have
you had any problems riding in the rain?

Jim

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Garvey" <lazybee45@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey Jim, Much depends on your riding habits.  I have a Currie drive
on my
> mountain bike and have used it on a Recumbent trike too.  i can
easily get
> well over 20 miles on that with the standard 12 ah battery pack.
If you set
> the bike up AS A BIKE with an assist motor, and not an underpowered
electric
> motorcycle, you should be fine!  i have easily ridden 25-30 miles
and still
> had power left.  but then I pedal on the flats, and coast downhill
and pedal
> to help teh motor when I am going uphill too!
>
> mark
>
> On 7/1/07, jim58ba2000 <jim58ba@...> wrote:
> >
> >   Last summer I finally got fed up with the high cost of gas and
started
> > doing my 15mile commute on a 1995 Schwinn Cruiser. Heavy single
speed
> > with just a coaster brake but very cool retro looks. We moved a
couple
> > of months ago and now the commute is about 25 miles each way.
Most of
> > what I have read shows e-bikes only have a range of about 20
miles or
> > so, is there a way to extend this range without excessive cost?
It is
> > pretty hilly here and windy too so I am guessing that even the
claimed
> > 20 mile range would not be something I would see under these
> > conditions. I am conserned that if the bike runs out of juice, I
would
> > too very shortly lugging around all the extra weight of the motor
&
> > battries. Possible to go the distance without spending thousands
of
> > dollars on the set up.
> >
> > Greatful for any information.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> "Human Misery is caused by human expectations."  Buddah
>
> Mark  Garvey
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa free state!
>
> Check out the web site at:
> http://www.vine-ave.com
>
> contact us to have INVISIBLE INC! appear at your next program!
Details at
> www.vine-ave.com
>
> I am a bicycling lifestylist!
>

Last summer I finally got fed up with the high cost of gas and started
doing my 15mile commute on a 1995 Schwinn Cruiser. Heavy single speed
with just a coaster brake but very cool retro looks. We moved a couple
of months ago and now the commute is about 25 miles each way. Most of
what I have read shows e-bikes only have a range of about 20 miles or
so, is there a way to extend this range without excessive cost? It is
pretty hilly here and windy too so I am guessing that even the claimed
20 mile range would not be something I would see under these
conditions. I am conserned that if the bike runs out of juice, I would
too very shortly lugging around all the extra weight of the motor &
battries. Possible to go the distance without spending thousands of
dollars on the set up.

Greatful for any information.

Jim

Hey everybody

Kinda new to the forum, but I am attempting my first electric bike,
and thought I might share what I have done so far, and see if
anybody has any ideas. First I am using a "dynoglide" bike, old
style curved shwin frame, looks classic, and has a great motor mount
spot near the rear wheel. For the motor, I am using a winch motor
from a superwinch T1500, its a .71 horsepower 90amp max DC motor.
The great thing about this motor is that it comes with a planetary
gear set up that has a 153:1 ratio. While this is waaaaay to much,
taking one the last gear out brings it to around a 15:1 ratio which
can be stepped up a little to get more speed out of the bike. A
little backwards from some some of the other set ups, but it is very
compact. Now, for the battery pack. I have used some deep draw lead
acid batteries, but am actually building a NiMh battery pack from
double A batteries. I have a very cheep source for them, and right
now have about 80 of them, and am working on connecting them in
cells consising of 50 batteries at 12 volts. If anybody has tried
anything like this and has any suggestions or questions, shoot me a
line, I would be more than happy to hear from you.

One question I do have though, (and yes I am a little ignorant of
this) Is why people invest so much money on a DC speed controller, I
understand they have some advantages such as the option for recharge
breaking, but could one not use a large Potentiometer for speed
control?

Hi Bob,

I go by Eric, my middle name, but I'm another Robert Lee.  What do you
have by way of cranks?  Are they 170mm or shorter? What's your largest
chain ring?

Eric

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "rjlee29" <rjlee29@...> wrote:
>
>  Hi all; I have a swb E Bike Bigha with a Currie 450 watt and Nimh 30
> amp battery pack that was installed in ECOSpeed Portland, Oregon It Has
> a 29 speed transmission shifts like a motorcycle. The problem is I have
> to pedal at a cadence of at least 90 or better most of the time. The
> Bike is good comfortable ride has a sram dual drive with 9spd
> derrailer.Its too long legged without the proper size of motor at
> present its in the bike shop for a rebuild with approx 25000 miles
> since my last cross country from my home in Northern, Va to Oregon were
> the bike was maufactured im nearly 78 years young so i only use power
> assist on hills and mountains. anybody out there tell me what i need
> besides a new body id appreciate the input  Thanx Bob Lee
>

Hi all; I have a swb E Bike Bigha with a Currie 450 watt and Nimh 30
amp battery pack that was installed in ECOSpeed Portland, Oregon It Has
a 29 speed transmission shifts like a motorcycle. The problem is I have
to pedal at a cadence of at least 90 or better most of the time. The
Bike is good comfortable ride has a sram dual drive with 9spd
derrailer.Its too long legged without the proper size of motor at
present its in the bike shop for a rebuild with approx 25000 miles
since my last cross country from my home in Northern, Va to Oregon were
the bike was maufactured im nearly 78 years young so i only use power
assist on hills and mountains. anybody out there tell me what i need
besides a new body id appreciate the input  Thanx Bob Lee

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the input.  So it isn't 700 lbs, or even 200 lbs.  When I said "700 lbs" I was facetiously referring to the "total battery" weight if I run both electric motors, the 600w and the 400w. Equipped with only the 600 watt 9 lb electric motor and 2 SLA batterys that weigh a total of 20 lbs, it's still enough weight to make me certain I won't be blown away by the next gale that hits eastern Washington. 

I've looked at NiCads and NiMh battery packs also.   What about Lithium batteries?   They are all expensive... and I still have a suspicion that on my short 4 mile uphill commute, with panniers on both sides stuffed with business clothes, tools and lunch, they will give up and go into "protective mode"  just when I really need them.  By the way, I peddle almost continuously on my ride, and usually after 8 months the batteries have lost storage capacity.   

In order to deliver the Currie's power assist directly to the derailleur we would need to incorporate a  jackshaft to transfer the rotation to the right side of the bicycle, then to a freewheel, and then down to the chain driving the  cluster.  How tough can that be?  I've seen some mid drive power units on motorized recumbents.      
--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Garvey" <lazybee45@...> wrote:
>
> Cheese Jerry, where did you come up with 700 lbs?. even the SLAs on my
> Currie USPD comes in at 19 lbs, heavy enough but far from 700! If I go to
> relatively low cost, low tech NiCads it will go down to about 12-14 lbs
> battery pack and increased range...NiMh is LOWER weight but higher cost. I
> too would LOVE to hook my Currie to the drive system rather than through the
> wheel, it would make it much more versatile. Right now with even the SLA
> pack it gives e a range of about 20 miles at least using power as I NEED it,
> (not constant) and I am certainly not a HUGE rider. I have to admit that
> the battery pack and motor are nearly as heavy as the trike however!
>
> mark
>
> On 12/21/06, winnieddog1 winnieddog1@... wrote:
> >
> > Hi, My name is Jerry. I commute to my dealership on a Currie USPD 21
> > speed bicycle with a 600w Lashout electric motor. That replaced the
> > original 400w. I've given some thought to re-installing the 400w motor
> > in a position to drive the small chainring so as to take advantage of
> > the 7 gears and combine the wattage of the two motors. The biggest
> > problem would be the required "700 lb" battery package.
> >
> > I've thought about replacing the electric drive system with a new gas
> > engine, either a belt drive or a chain drive (driving the original
> > Currie rear sprocket). I might install the two electric motors on an
> > old SchwinnTwinn I'm rebuilding. I'd appreciate some input on the
> > subject of gas vs. electric. etc.
> >
> > Thanks, Jerry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Check out the web site at:
> http://www.vine-ave.com
>
> contact us to have INVISIBLE INC! appear at your next program! Details at
> www.vine-ave.com
>
> NVNC ID VIDES, NVNC NE VIDES
>
> ("Now you see it, now you don't." the Motto of Unseen University, A.M.)
>

Hi, My name is Jerry.  I commute to my dealership on a Currie USPD 21
speed bicycle with a 600w Lashout electric motor.  That replaced the
original 400w.  I've given some thought to re-installing the 400w motor
in a position to drive the small chainring so as to take advantage of
the 7 gears and combine the wattage of the two motors.  The biggest
problem would be the required "700 lb"  battery package.

I've thought about replacing the electric drive system with a new gas
engine, either a belt drive or a chain drive (driving the original
Currie rear sprocket).   I might install the two electric motors on an
old SchwinnTwinn I'm rebuilding.  I'd appreciate some input on the
subject of gas vs. electric. etc.

Thanks,  Jerry

For some reason posts have not been forward to me, so I just read your
posts.  It will take me a while to digest your performance data, but
thanks for sharing.

My understanding from your posts elsewhere is that your design is a
production prototype you hope to make commercial and so are not
sharing details at this time, which is understandable.  I'll sharpen
my pencil and see if I can design something that approaches your
performance.  Someday I hope to do a cross country tour along the
pacific coast from Mexico to Canada.  Would you be interested in
participating?

With 100 lbs of batteries on it that are ni-zn (about the same power
density as NiMh) The bike made a 10,005 ft Volcano climb several times
in 36 miles up on 1 amp per mile at 48 volts= 48 watts per mile just up
hill at 12 mph in 3 hours but I could coast back down the whole way for
free in 1 hour= 36 mph down hill making the average round trip of 72
miles on 1728 watt hours in 4 hours on a 150 lb bike.

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <busybee@...> wrote:
>
> Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
> maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
> range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
> up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
> should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
> watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
> guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.
>
> --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> > http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
> >
>

With 100 lbs of batteries on it that are ni-zn (about the same power
density as NiMh) The bike made a 10,005 ft Volcano climb several times
in 36 miles up on 1 amp per mile at 48 volts= 48 watts per mile just up
hill at 12 mph in 3 hours but I could coast back down the whole way for
free in 1 hour= 36 mph down hill making the average round trip of 72
miles on 1728 watt hours in 4 hours on a 150 lb bike.

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <busybee@...> wrote:
>
> Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
> maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
> range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
> up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
> should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
> watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
> guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.
>
> --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> > http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
> >
>

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7383462249632414840
--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <busybee@...> wrote:
>
> Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
> maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
> range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
> up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
> should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
> watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
> guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.
>
> --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> > http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
> >
>

about 24 watts per mile on most average round trips with wind and
hills at 20 mph.on flat land about 18 watts per mile at about 18 to 20
mph avrage speeds.These figures are with a 160 lb rider.

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <busybee@...> wrote:
>
> Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
> maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
> range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
> up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
> should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
> watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
> guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.
>
> --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> > http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
> >
>

With the two 36 volt batteries in parallel or used 1 at a time each
battery will provide 25 miles at 17 to 18 mph with no pedaling on flat
land.20 miles in most cases on round trips with hills and no
pedaling.The same applys to using 72 volts but when you have the speed
you will use it. lol ....Thanks fot the comments.I think this bike sets
the standards.

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <busybee@...> wrote:
>
> Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
> maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
> range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
> up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
> should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
> watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
> guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.
>
> --- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> > http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
> >
>

Pretty impressive videos.  What if you optimized for 20 mph and
maximum range?  Do you think you could achieve an 60 mile flat ground
range or 3 hr run time without pedaling?  If 210 watts would get you
up to 20 mph, it would take 1285 watts to go 40 mph.  A smaller motor
should get you farther, half the speed but 1/6th the power.  How many
watts does your bike use cruising at 20 mph on the flats?  I'm
guessing it's optimized for higher than 20 mph speeds.

--- In ebikebuilders@yahoogroups.com, "mauisailer1" <mauisailer1@...>
wrote:
>
>  that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
> http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui
>

that can climb any hill or volcano and weghs 65 lbs.
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ecyclemaui

Is there a regen braking controller for NI-Mh batteries?

I just created a new forum for PeBA that I think will work better than
Yahoo Groups.  So before posting any new discussions here, please visit
the new format and see what you think.

http://www.alysion.org/peba/

I posted a First Post as a test.  One feature I really like is the
ability to include graphics and tables in your post.  Being able to
include a picture really helps in communicating an idea.  Other related
forums can also be easily added.  If you like the forum software, vote
with your feet so to speak; join and post there instead of here.  If
everyone moves over to the other forum I'll just put a redirect here.

Considering the huge difference in power needed to travel on flat
ground vs climbing hills
(http://www.alysion.org/ebiketours/power.html) I'm trying to figure
out how to efficiently produce about 100-150 watts continuous on the
flats, but still have a sort of overdrive reserve of 500-750 watts for
climbing.  While 100 watts through the gears plus pedaling would get
you over the hill, it would be slow going on the steep ones.  Pulling
5 times the amps might make sense if it got you over the hill 4 times
faster.  I doubt one motor could operated at peak efficiency at 100
and 500 watts.  Perhaps if the motor could operate on 12-48v and you
had 4 12v packs that you could reconfigure on the fly into a 12v, 24v,
and 48v system?

A fairly straight forward approach would be to have one motor
optimized for the flats and another overdrive motor assisting the
smaller one as needed--a sort of double assist power system.

So, an idea worth kicking around?

Anyone know where I can get Saft batteries from in Milwaukee?  I am
looking for 12V 30Ah Ni-Mh batteries.  I believe the the part # is 803
423 and the controller/charger is 803 425.

'allo:
I have a Currie USPD that has been on and off various bikes and trikes
for a while now and it currently lives on my Tour Easy (home built
from Gardner Martin Tour Easy Plans)  My stable of bikes and trikes
include a Terra Trike 3.6 a Worksman DF trike, a Retrike 707, a PPV, A
Trailmate Fun cycle and a mountain bike as well as a couple of other
various bikes.  My main interest is in trikes rather than bikes (ya
THINK?) and in Velomobiles.

mark

My AeroRider will be here in Dec/Jan.  It will have 48V assist.  I am
hoping to adding ICE to it as well.  I also requested 3 wheel disk
brakes.  I will post sometimes when I get it, and somemore when the
modifications are complete..... hope there is more talking in this
group....