Hi Everybody

I look two boys riadin in recumbetns ins my Country (Chile )

If you know they  I add two pictures.

Regards

Matto

Thanks everyone!!

Looks like a trip to Lowes on the weekend is in order.  I'm in Canada;
hopefully stock is the same up here, if not, I'll order from Poweron
and hope that the shipping/brokerage isn't to brutal...

Stay tuned for lots of questions as I dive into the project!

JB

--- In bentechriders@yahoogroups.com, dave koslow <davekoz@...> wrote:
>
> Pet D-Fence screening is the same vinyl mesh Rans uses for their
seats. Its made by Pfifertex, and costs about $16 a roll. Lowes carrys
it with the window screen. Alternatiely,  Pfifertex mesh is available
by the yard from awning companies, boat companies and, I think,
Poweron cycling.  Runs about $12 a yard.
> kOz
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: guinness_a_day
>   To: bentechriders@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 22:24
>   Subject: [bentechriders] Source for seat fabric
>
>
>   Hi All.
>
>   Starting to gather the bits for my SWB build; but I'm striking out on
>   seat fabric. Anyone have a source for a online vendor, or does
>   anybody have some extra that they want to get rid of?
>
>   Thanks in advance!
>
>   JB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG.
>   Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date:
11/3/2008 7:46 AM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

JB,

You can get what you need from American Home & Habitat Inc.-
http://www.ahh.biz/index.htm - they have the mesh, grommets and
nylon webbing. It's been a while since I've ordered from them, but I
used the 0.75mm vinyl coated mesh. I still have enough left to make
another seat if you're interested. It's grey or "silver" as I like
to call it. What's nice is that you can get the nylon webbing in a
color to match. If you know what color your bike is going to be,
it's a good way to customize the look. You've nine colors to choose
from with the 0.75mm:

http://www.ahh.biz/fabric_catagories/vinyl_composites.htm
http://www.ahh.biz/products/Vinyl%20coated%20polyester%20mesh%
20.75mm%20FVM075.htm

Not having a heavy duty sewing machine, I took the webbing and mesh
to a local leather place and had them sew it up for me. It cost me
about $20. You could get any tailor to do the same thing. Usually a
good dry cleaners will have someone that does alterations. They can
handle it. If there is an old school shoe repair shop near you, they
know how to work with heavy material and webbing too, but I'd try a
leather coat/leather goods shop that does alterations first.

Jim

I went to Lowes and bought shade cloth material, cheap, strong and readily
available. Doug

________________________________________________________________________
> 1. Source for seat fabric
>    Posted by: "guinness_a_day" guinness_a_day@... guinness_a_day
>    Date: Tue Nov 4, 2008 12:51 pm ((PST))
>
> Hi All.
>
> Starting to gather the bits for my SWB build; but I'm striking out on
> seat fabric.  Anyone have a source for a online vendor, or does
> anybody have some extra that they want to get rid of?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> JB


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pet D-Fence screening is the same vinyl mesh Rans uses for their seats. Its made
by Pfifertex, and costs about $16 a roll. Lowes carrys it with the window
screen. Alternatiely,  Pfifertex mesh is available by the yard from awning
companies, boat companies and, I think, Poweron cycling.  Runs about $12 a yard.
kOz
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: guinness_a_day
   To: bentechriders@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 22:24
   Subject: [bentechriders] Source for seat fabric


   Hi All.

   Starting to gather the bits for my SWB build; but I'm striking out on
   seat fabric. Anyone have a source for a online vendor, or does
   anybody have some extra that they want to get rid of?

   Thanks in advance!

   JB






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


   No virus found in this incoming message.
   Checked by AVG.
   Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008 7:46
AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This has been discussed over on atomic zombie forum.

www.atomiczombie.com

I used outdoor furniture material that I got from an upholsterer here in
Aus.

Here is an excerpt from a post at atomic zombie that might help if you
are in USA.

........ mesh called "Pet Screen" at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. I think
it is made from something called Phifertex. In my case, I used a similar
material that was from an old canopy my wife used to create shade at dog
agility trials. If you search the old forum for "mesh seat" you will
find 3 pages of threads talking about mesh seats in some way. Some
patience is required to search the old forum (takes a few minutes to
return the results, but worth it).

Here is the company that makes Phifertex

http://www.phifer.com/Consumer.aspx.

You might want to have a look at this.

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=1468

Have a look through and you'll see some pics of my Euromesh seat clone.
I built it for a trike but now I'm doing one for my Bentech too.

The Bentech is a really great bike. If you are building from scratch,
one thing I noticed is the chain is a bit close to the chainstay on the
smallest sprocket. If I did mine again I'd angle the chainstay up just a
tad more.  Also I'd make the bend in the main tube a bit less. I suspect
the muffler shop overbent mine a bit but I've not checked. It just seems
to point down a bit far. I'd like it to be parallel to the ground.

I made my original seat 15" wide and with a lumbar support. You can see
that if you look in the photo section at John's Bike.

Keep us posted on your progress,

John Lewis

HEY JB
      poweron cycling.com HAS SEAT MATERIAL AND MANY OTHER THING FOR BUILDING
RECUMBENTS. IBOUGHT A NICE HANDLE BAR ASSEMBLY FROM THEM ALSO  WHEELS .
     DON O      I FINISHED MY SWB  I LOVE IT

_____________________________________________________________
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FNn1pp2xojnkCb5RMDXpf/?count=1234567890


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi All.

Starting to gather the bits for my SWB build; but I'm striking out on
seat fabric.  Anyone have a source for a online vendor, or does
anybody have some extra that they want to get rid of?

Thanks in advance!

JB

Hi all,

Well I've finally finished my "Bentech" trike. Actually its for a
friend who intends to ride it around Australia.

The main boom is pure Bentech SWB I just put the bend the other way
and welded on a cross tube for the front wheels.

The seat is the same as my Yellow B'tech SWB. The front wheels are
15mm axle BMX wheels and I spoked up the rear wheel myself following
Sheldon Brown's article.

  The whole bike is fillet brazed mostly muffler tube. Finished weight
was 20kg the same as my commercially built LoGo trike.

It rides real nice and has a good turn of speed.

The photos are in the photo section "John's Bike

Heck its time we had some posts here. Its been very quiet of late.

I've been building and I've been working on a DeltaWolf from the
Atomic Zombie stable.

I also want to build a highracer. I think I can base it on the Bentech
just by keeping the boom straight. I have a nice set of 700C road
wheels for it.

My problem though is short legs. I might have to build a dip in the
middle where the seat goes.

So come on you lot. How about hitting the keyboard and letting us know
what you are doing. Building? Rides? whatever. Time to make this group
rock.

Regards,

John Lewis

Thanks for all the replies guys! I was thinking of getting one of
Dom's 4130 frames that is already welded up, since I don't have
access to a welder or any other metal working equipment. I will be
painting and building it up myself. I have a lot of experiance doing
that. There is nothing on my Burley right now that is stock except
the front wheel, the rest has all been modified. I'm thinking of
building it up with mostly Shimano road parts, probably Paul Thumbies
with barcons. I had another question, the SWB frameset that Dom
sells, is it able to switch between USS and OSS? I think I want to go
with OSS to start with and then maybe experiment with USS at some
point.

Hello Sean,

Well I built two from scratch. They are brazed mild steel and plenty
strong. If you get one of Dom's frames  I'm sure it will be strong and
do you proud. Brazing is in fact very strong and even a brazed frame
won't break if done properly and there's nothing wrong with muffler tube
either.

Now as to the handling. There are some issues but they are in common
with all SWB's. The most annoying is heel strike where your heel touches
the front wheel. That can tip you off. If you have long legs it may not
be a problem but it was for me. Fortunately you quickly come to terms
with it. I fell about three times before I woke up.

The next issue is steering. LWB bikes seem quite steady. When you first
get on a SWB you may likely wonder what's going on. They feel really
twitchy at first. Its a by product of the short wheelbase I guess. The
trick is to relax back into the seat and only have a light grip on the
bars. It took me a few rides to get used to it. Now I don't even notice.

Starting off was another skill to learn. There is a leap of faith in
putting your feet way up there on the pedals. The trick for me was to
hold the brakes on and turn the front wheel away from the side where my
leg was down on the ground. Then put my foot on the pedal and give a
good hard push off.

Stopping is similar. unclip early. Then when stopped, keep the brake on,
put a foot down and turn the front wheel away a bit. Likely what I'm
telling you is confusing but all will become clear when you get the bike.

The seat. Well I made my own design based on a trike I had. It has a
lumbar support and is not as wide as  the one in the plans. I think that
one was altogether too wide. At the moment I'm building a Euromesh style
seat and I will lay it back more. The upright  position is fine but I
now feel I can benefit from a more reclined position. What I'm saying is
you can customise or change the seat later.

Sean, I think you would be really pleased with a Bentech. I love mine
and wouldn't part with it. As you build it yourself you can customise
and alter as you want. These bikes are never finished :>). You would
never make alterations to your multi thousand dollar M5 or similar but
you'll find you don't have those constraints with a homebuilt.

Watch out! This building bents is addictive. I'm onto number nine as I
write and several more to go as I've discovered the Atomic Zombie
website and want to build some of those. I'm doing a DeltaWolf at present.

Hope this helps,

John Lewis

Sean Stephenson wrote:

> I want to get a SWB frameset, not painted for a winter project. I was
> wondering if anyone could comment on the handling of the bike and the
> seat
>
>
>
>



The bike handles pretty nicely.  Some of those who've ridden mine have
commented that the steering's perhaps a little on the sharp side, but
nothing unmanageable.  I find it very manouvreable.

I also found the seat rather too wide, so cut 4" out of it - but I'm
more like 160 pounds than 240 with my six feet!  There's a tendency for
the seat mesh to ruck up towards the centre of the seat - the elastic
pulls it up and down as well as side-to-side (this seems to be a problem
with most mesh 'bent seats if they have elastic cord), so I sewed on
little "pouches" which hook the top of the seat over the ends of the
frame, and the same at the bottom.  This solves the problem nicely, but
still allows the elastic to stretch and the seat to absorb the road
bumps underneath me.  (I'll post photos if this makes no sense and
anyone wants them).

I can't directly comment on the frame's ability to carry you, but it
does seem significantly over-specified for skinny runts like me.

Phil

Use Crom Mo Steel, it has a very high yield strength and will have no
problem with your weight.  I weighted 200 when I build my 1st frame
and there was very little frame bending.  I used a TIG welder to weld
together.  A MIG weld should also be okay.  Brazing does not melt the
Crom Mo so not as strong as TIG or MIG welds.
Bob
--- In bentechriders@yahoogroups.com, "Sean Stephenson" <seans44@...>
wrote:
>
> I want to get a SWB frameset, not painted for a winter project. I was
> wondering if anyone could comment on the handling of the bike and the
> seat, those are a few of my concerns. Also I was wondering if the
> bike will handle my 240lbs and 6' body? I have a LWB Burley recumbent
> right now, so I know how a recumbent is to ride, I'm looking at
> building up the Bentech because I want a SWB and I need to use some
> spare bike parts up. Also I miss building a bike up from my days of
> building up MTBs.
>

I SOLD MY LONG WHEEL BASE AFTER BUILDING AND RIDING A SHORT BENTEC. THE SHORT IS
EASIER TO RIDE FOR ME. I AM SURE THE SHORT WOULD HANDLE YOUR HIEGHT AND WEIGHT.
   DONO
____________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I want to get a SWB frameset, not painted for a winter project. I was
wondering if anyone could comment on the handling of the bike and the
seat, those are a few of my concerns. Also I was wondering if the
bike will handle my 240lbs and 6' body? I have a LWB Burley recumbent
right now, so I know how a recumbent is to ride, I'm looking at
building up the Bentech because I want a SWB and I need to use some
spare bike parts up. Also I miss building a bike up from my days of
building up MTBs.

G'day Dwight,

Must say I've been thinking of a highracer. Problem for me is I think
you need to be tall. I'm at full stretch and leaned over to reach the
ground on my Bentech now. Uncomfortable.

This guy,   http://biketour.blogspot.com/   built a B'tech high racer.
Dom did the frame I think. (scroll down)

I envisage something like the Bacchetta Corsa.
http://www.bacchettabikes.com/recumbents/index.html

USS will be easy enough to do. If it's a 20/26 its just a matter of not
putting the bend in the main tube. a 26/26 would probably need the head
tube re angled for correct trail. Thats easily doable. Or perhaps angle
the chainstays down to get the same effect.

For me I'd need to do something like the M5 highracer.
http://www.m5-ligfietsen.nl/site/EN/

That would solve my height problem. It would need multiple tube bends so
I think it would be easier for simplicity to cut and weld rather than
bend. Maybe not as pleasing an appearance. Come to that, square tube
might be the go for the main tube. No jig needed. But with round I think
you could still use the standard B'tech jig.

For the seat you could clone a euromesh seat in steel. I've done that
already (10'' wide) for a mates bike. It is really nice because you
shape it to fit you.

USS or OSS? Well I really like USS but after my crash I changed my view.
If I'd been using USS I'd have done more damage. As it was the handlebar
end and side of the seat took most of the gravel rash. Had I been USS it
would have been my hands.  I rather like the 'tweener style bars. Almost
as comfortable as USS.

At present I'm finishing up a Bentech based trike for a friend and an
Atomic Zombie DeltaWolf. When they are done I'll dig out my B'tech plans
and see if I can roll out a high racer.

The forum has been real quiet. Hope we can get some discussion going.

John Lewis

There doesn't appear to have been any discussion recently about a high
racer version.  As High Racers seem to be coming on strong, and there
are almost no USS high racers, any chance of some new plans and frames?

Thanks,
-Dwight

G'day  all,

It's been pretty quiet on the list. Everyone must be out building or
riding. :>)

I have been building.

Have a look in the photo section at John's Bike. I have uploaded three
shots of the Bentech based trike I'm building. I think the heritage is
apparent.

The trike in the background is the beginnings of a DeltaWolf from the
Atomic Zombie website. Google it if you want. Some neat designs.

So, what have the rest of you been doing?

John Lewis

G'day all,

Well I've been busy building a Bentech Trike.  Turned the main tube up,
put a cross member in place of the head tube. Plain bearing bushes and
14mm axle BMX wheels on front. Not quite done yet. I'll put up some
pictures later in John's Bike.

Also building a DeltaWolf from the Atomic Zombie site. If you've not
done it yet, go take a look. Some interesting machines.

Oh yes, my Bentech is still going great and I love it. I'm thinking of
upgrading the seat to a Euromesh seat and getting it a bit lower and
more laid back. Has anyone tried that ?

Regards,
John Lewis

Hi Guy's, due to some untimely cercumstances I have to sell my BENTECH
project. It is a Dom built frame, all assembled except for a front
raileur. Would prefer a local sale as I don't have a clue as to how to
ship a bicycle.First $500.00 takes it. I live in the Frazer Valley of
Vancouver BC.  By the way this is a short wheel,over seat steer.I will
try to post a pick, tomorrow. Thank's Dan

Hello;
If you are an accomplished frame-builder and have an interest in
producing 5-10 tandem frames, I may have a business proposal for you.
Take a look at the website and video below;
below.http://yourbodypower.org/transformationtrike.htm
I have been developing (with some help on this list) a tandem
recumbent trike similar to the Greenspeed.  The advantage of my
version is that I've eliminated single-mount wheels and created a
simpler steering knuckle.  I have full cad plans and I can modify the
drawings in Autodesk Inventor.
The Transformation Trike is an auto-alternative with a 300lb
cargo/passenger capacity. The frame splits into three pieces which
makes for a very versatile machine.
If you are interested in the idea of building the future (literally)
than let's talk.
I live in the Portland Metro area and would prefer to work with
someone in the Northwest to simplify meetings.
email me at - Aaron[at]yourbodypower[.]org

I've been asked to bring this to your attention -

Hello!
I belong to a loosely organized recumbent group called BWIBents and
we're organizing a ride for recumbents (all cyclists are welcome!),
can you please send to your group?
Thank you and have a great day!
Jake

Come join us for some fun on July 19th, 2008!  There are rides for all
types of recumbent enthusiasts. Don't be afraid to bring your
non-recumbent cyclists along too! A light lunch will be offered after
1:00PM.  We have four great routes in the local area including some
Mutli-Use trails, Rail-Trail, and local roads that take you through
some challenging terrain with stunning parks and history.

We will have SAG support so bring your cell phone!  Ride around the
BWI Airport, towards Annapolis MD, under the famous Thomas Viaduct of
the B&O Railroad and along the Patapsco River if you choose. Maps and
Cue sheets will be provided and will also be available for download to
all participants.  The longer routes will start earlier in the day
with staggered starts so everyone can regroup at the field for a light
casual lunch and good times.

For complete details and/or to register, please go to
www.beeweebents.com/mabe<http://www.beeweebents.com/mabe>.  See you there!

The BeeWeeBents

> This is my first post on here and maybe I am wrong. I have heard that
> if you use mig to weld 4130 you should anneal the welds. I have read
> this a number of times about frame building with 4130. You wouldn't
> have to heat treat the whole frame. Just anneal the welded parts.

First I would ask "Why?" then I would ask "How?"

Why would you need to anneal a MIG welded 4130 joint?

If the fear is a brittle joint, then why not use one of the preferred
methods of welding 4130? I would think that it is easier to find a
professional welder or someone at a trade school that will weld the
bike frame than going through a more complicated process.

How would you anneal just the weld joint and not the tubing near the
joint?

I'm not sure how one could do this. Controlling the heating and
cooling cycles such that they are isolated to the weld in the joint
doesn't seem practical in the garage workshop. I suppose if I had to
come up with a process I could think of something, but going back to
the first question, I don't think I'd be gaining anything for my effort.

I guess the main concern that I am hearing from posts like this is
regarding failure or premature failure of the bicycle frame. I think I
stated once before that the stresses imparted to the frame under
normal use would not exceed the yield strength of 4130. If one is
concerned about the stresses imparted on the welded joints under the
same conditions, I'd have to say initial weld quality rather than
post-weld processing would be more critical in determining the
strength of the welded joint.

Still, if the concern is that the joint will fail, then you also have
to consider the way steel fails. Most likely with a brittle joint one
would be looking for signs of metal fatigue like a crack in the weld.
This is something that can be monitored over time. You would see this
before a catastrophic failure.

Since I mentioned it, I'll also say that catastrophic failure is
unlikely. If you think you'll be riding down the road and the frame
will just spontaneously break apart, that's just not likely. Most
likely part of a weld will fail, but not the whole weld. Not every
single weld will fail at the same time in the same way. So if you're
monitoring your welds, you'll know if something needs to be repaired
before it fails.

That leads me to one of the best things about working with metal.
Metal can be repaired. Bad welds can be ground out and good metal put
in its place.

Of course, avoiding repair is why we have been having this discussion
about the best methods of welding 4130. Use the best methods with
skill and you don't have to worry about fixing it later.

It's a bicycle frame, not an aircraft or a race car frame or a roll
cage. If you weld the frame with gas or TIG, great. If you weld with
MIG, it works for Ducati motorcycles, so it should work for you if
you're a skilled welder. What is more important is that you go out and
try it. Even if the welding process is not ideal, you just might end
up with something ridable that will provide you with lots more smiles
per mile than any bicycle you've ever ridden. When you are in one of
those moments on your bike, I can guarantee that the last thing you'll
be thinking about is if you should have tried to anneal those MIG welds.

Jim

--- In bentechriders@yahoogroups.com, "Nick Lenarz" <n9viw@...> wrote:
>
> --- In bentechriders@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <obsidian_nj@> wrote:
>
> >
> > BTW, 4130 steel does not need any kind of heat treatment before
> > welding. It can and should be welded as is. Heating an alloy like
> > 4130 to a high temperature would cause the metal to loose strength.
> <SNIP>
> > Jim
> >
>
> So, you're saying that heat-treating 4130 (at least as regards bicycle
> building) is unnecessary? That's a relief! I have a Schwinn Sierra
> with the front triangle made out of 4130, and wanted to use it for a
> project. I was concerned about embrittlement, not annealing, in the HAZ.
>
> Of course, here I come with the curveball: I don't have a TIG welder,
> and while I do have access to a welding group, I don't want to spend
> that kind of money. Now, can I reliably weld 4130 with, say, 7014 arc
> rod, and still not worry about damaging the tubing due to heat flux?
>
This is my first post on here and maybe I am wrong. I have heard that
if you use mig to weld 4130 you should anneal the welds. I have read
this a number of times about frame building with 4130. You wouldn't
have to heat treat the whole frame. Just anneal the welded parts.

I ALSO HAVE A BURLEY KOOSAH LONG WHEEL BASE AS NEW 700$ PLUS SHIPPING .
   DON O

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I HAVE PLANS FOR A LONG, IO$ WILL GET THEM.
    DON O




























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Click here to find the rental car that fits your needs.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

not a bentech, but I have a Bachetta Cafe frame/fork/rear derailleur,
head set and top, that i'd let go for 225.00 is in really nice condition.

wantbent wrote:

> I am looking for a LWB USS kit that someone wants to sell
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG.
>Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17
PM
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am looking for a LWB USS kit that someone wants to sell

thanks

Congrats, Mark and welcome. Your schedule doesn't leave much time for
building, but then again there is never enough time. You'll probably
spend a good deal of time absorbing the information from the plans
for a while but when you get started it's probably going to be best
if you take small bites and celebrate the little victories.

For example, I'd start with the alignment blocks for the jig. If I
had limited time like you, I'd do one or two blocks over the course
of a weekend and be happy with the progress. I'd keep going like that
until the blocks were done.

After that I'd start on the dropouts. Drilling/cutting them out one
day or weekend and filing/grinding on another.

In hindsight, I'd concentrate on the seat jig and seat last and cut
the seat width down quite a bit. You could even buy a seat as a
shortcut. I think Hostel Shoppe was having a clearance sale on some
hardshell seats recently. Buying parts and supplies counts as
progress even if it doesn't feel like you're doing much.

Good luck with your build!

Jim

Not a how to, but a how I did it using my Mapp/Oxy kit.

  A canister of Mapp seems to last forever but the Oxy bottles - your doing
good to get 15min out of them. I talked to the owner of a welding shop about
an idea I had for a larger oxy bottle and he help me put this together. It
works great!

http://bellsouthpwp2.net/k/a/karlet/Parts.JPG

http://bellsouthpwp2.net/k/a/karlet/Assy.JPG





   _____

From: bentechriders@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bentechriders@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of simon968193
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 6:44 AM
To: bentechriders@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bentechriders] Brazing kit



hi all, does anyone have experience/comment on alternatives to
oxy/acetelene for brazing?

In the UK, i have seen LP powered torches which the manufacturers claim
to be suitable.. sems to be a viable alternative to the throwaway
canister solutions out there...

TIA
Simon





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]