Of course you should go back and show them the problem.

Joel


--- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "lillyd_69" <lillyd_69@...> wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> How would you suggest I get rid of the front derallieur "chain suck'
> problem? Would your adjustments you listed below fix this? It happens
> when I shift from the largest chain ring to the middle chain ring.
>
> I have to say, the LBS seemed to have done a great job, but If you are
> suggesting that they did not get the cahin and derallieurs right.
> should I go back to them? the bike rides and brakes well. They charged
> me $56 for the complete tune up.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> --- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Schmidt" <digitalfalcon@>
> wrote:
> >
> > It shouldn't be, but many of us with trikes have the power side of the
> > chain above the arm, and the return side below. This makes for a
> > straighter chainline with fewer bends.
> >
> > - Jeff Schmidt
> > www.rebel-cycles.com
> >
> >
> > --- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "lillyd_69" <lillyd_69@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeff,
> > >
> > > They kept the chain tubes routed as they came from AB- both
tubes zip
> > > tied together over the wheel arm. Is this an issue?
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Schmidt" <digitalfalcon@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It sounds like they didn't do such a great job when they
> adjusted the
> > > > derailleurs and chain length! Here are two thinks that you should
> > > > investigate right away:
> > > >
> > > > 1. Derailleur idler spacing: With the rear derailleur in the
> lowest
> > > > gear (biggest cog), check to see how far away the top derailleur
> idler
> > > > is from the cog. It should be about 1/4". If it isn't, your
chain
> > > > may skip or bind. There is an adjustment screw close to where the
> > > > derailleur is attached to the rear fork, adjust it for a 1/4"
> spacing.
> > > >
> > > > 2. Chain length. With both derailleurs set to the largest cog,
> check
> > > > to see how far forward the derailleur tensioner is being
pulled. It
> > > > should make a 35-40 degree angle with the ground. With both
> > > > derailleurs in the smallest cog, the return side of the chain
should
> > > > not be in contact with any parts of the derailleur above it.
Adjust
> > > > the length (or have the bike shop do it), to satisfy these
> conditions.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, how did they route the chain tubes?
> > > >
> > > > - Jeff Schmidt
> > > > www.rebel-cycles.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "lillyd_69" <lillyd_69@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi folks,
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my ABTT to a local bike shop to do the finishing touches
> > on the
> > > > > trike to get it on the road- getting the brakes and derallieurs
> > > > > working and adjusting the chain.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am noticing when I ride that when shifting from the biggest
> > > > > chainring on the front derailleur to smaller rings, the
chain gets
> > > > > "sucked up" into the smaller gear and jams up. I then have
to back
> > > > > pedal to loosen it up so it will engage the smaller ring. Any
> advice
> > > > > on how to fix this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, there is a some play in the chain. It hangs pretty loose
> > on the
> > > > > chain rings and flops around when I shift gears. It's not
> excessive,
> > > > > but it's there. Is this normal? The LBS adjusted the chain
> and made
> > > > > it shorter. Is it still too long?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for your help!
> > > > >
> > > > > Dan
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>