It sounds like they didn't do such a great job when they adjusted the
derailleurs and chain length! Here are two thinks that you should
investigate right away:

1. Derailleur idler spacing: With the rear derailleur in the lowest
gear (biggest cog), check to see how far away the top derailleur idler
is from the cog. It should be about 1/4". If it isn't, your chain
may skip or bind. There is an adjustment screw close to where the
derailleur is attached to the rear fork, adjust it for a 1/4" spacing.

2. Chain length. With both derailleurs set to the largest cog, check
to see how far forward the derailleur tensioner is being pulled. It
should make a 35-40 degree angle with the ground. With both
derailleurs in the smallest cog, the return side of the chain should
not be in contact with any parts of the derailleur above it. Adjust
the length (or have the bike shop do it), to satisfy these conditions.

Lastly, how did they route the chain tubes?

- Jeff Schmidt
www.rebel-cycles.com


--- In actionbent@yahoogroups.com, "lillyd_69" <lillyd_69@...> wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I took my ABTT to a local bike shop to do the finishing touches on the
> trike to get it on the road- getting the brakes and derallieurs
> working and adjusting the chain.
>
> I am noticing when I ride that when shifting from the biggest
> chainring on the front derailleur to smaller rings, the chain gets
> "sucked up" into the smaller gear and jams up. I then have to back
> pedal to loosen it up so it will engage the smaller ring. Any advice
> on how to fix this?
>
> Also, there is a some play in the chain. It hangs pretty loose on the
> chain rings and flops around when I shift gears. It's not excessive,
> but it's there. Is this normal? The LBS adjusted the chain and made
> it shorter. Is it still too long?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
>