I'm getting emails from folks using
blackberry that are full of code and I'm getting no subject line. I
can't find a fix, but I don't think it is on my end. Do you need to
sync your blackberries to email? It's not happening with all blacberry
messages, just from a few specific people.
The start location is no longer called IGA. It's now called LaBonne's Market, FYI.
Very worthwhile ride that I've done twice.
Ave
On Nov 19, 2009, at 1:54 PM, Brian Sharlach wrote:
Just a reminder that the ride is coming up. Please contact me if you have any questions about the ride. I'll send any additional updates next week. Ride details are below. We'll try to start as close to 10am as possible due to the early sunset, but it's a good idea to have a flashing rear light and if you own one, a lightweight front light.
Saturday, November 28 THE 6TH ANNUAL HAT CITY ALICE'S RESTAURANT RIDE Another Thanksgiving weekend ride that couldn't be beat! Start in Salisbury, CT for a 66 mile scenic ride through the southern Berkshires (almost all back roads) before passing the site of Alice's Restaurant and “the scene of the crime” in Stockbridge, and on the way back, “the church where Alice lived”. No big hills and shorter options possible. Start at 10:00am from the Salisbury IGA parking lot. C Pace, RO, MP, RG, Faster riders welcome. Ride Leader: Brian Sharlach; brian.sharlach@gmail.com; 203-938-8057; cell 203-858-0841 (morning of ride). More info about Alice's Restaurant at: http://www.arlo.net/lyrics/alices.shtml
Just a reminder that the ride is coming up. Please contact me if you have any questions about the ride. I'll send any additional updates next week. Ride details are below. We'll try to start as close to 10am as possible due to the early sunset, but it's a good idea to have a flashing rear light and if you own one, a lightweight front light.
Saturday, November 28
THE 6TH ANNUAL HAT CITY ALICE'S RESTAURANT RIDE
Another Thanksgiving weekend ride that couldn't be beat! Start in
Salisbury, CT for a 66 mile scenic ride through the southern
Berkshires (almost all back roads) before passing the site of Alice's
Restaurant and “the scene of the crime” in Stockbridge, and on the
way back, “the church where Alice lived”. No big hills and shorter
options possible. Start at 10:00am from the Salisbury IGA parking
lot. C Pace, RO, MP, RG, Faster riders welcome. Ride Leader: Brian
Sharlach; brian.sharlach@...; 203-938-8057; cell 203-858-0841
(morning of ride). More info about Alice's Restaurant at: http://www.arlo.net/lyrics/alices.shtml
This bike is now for sale:
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [CRW] Sheldon Brown bicycle for sale
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 10:14:19 -0500
From: John S. Allen <jsallen@...>
To: Charles River Wheelmen <charlesriverwheelmen@yahoogroups.com>
References: <A5CC762518BD4465B1E27796F10BD7AE@LIBRARYHP>
Another of Sheldon Brown's bicycles is for sale, a 2006 Raleigh
Cadent 4.0 with a carbon fiber frame, 10-speed cassette and triple
cranks -- weight 20 1/2 pounds. This bicycle rather uniquely combines
a relaxed riding position (higher head tube than on a road-racing
bicycle), relatively short top tube and all the most modern features
for light weight. This bicycle is especially suitable for club rides
and day tours.
The eBay listing is at:
http://tinyurl.com/ykht64v
More details about this bicycle are on Sheldon's Web site:
http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-cadent/index.html
John S. Allen
jsallen *at* bikexprt.com
http://bikexprt.com
----- end message -----
--- In WCCChat@yahoogroups.com, "petesalomone" <pete@...> wrote:
>
> Harris Cyclery is just outside Boston off the Mass Pike. While they do mail
order they have a real store with new bikes and lots of hard to get parts.
While Sheldon Brown is no longer, his website is maintained
>
> --- In WCCChat@yahoogroups.com, "long_slowrider_bob" <lillieishot@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I found this bike:
> >
> > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/raleigh/cadent1.0.html
> > <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/raleigh/cadent1.0.html>
> >
> > It says it is specially designed for confor and less strain on back and
> > hands, exactly what I am looking for, and they have higher end models.
> > However, I can't seem to find it anywhere else except this mail order
> > place. Anyone know anything about this?
> >
> >
> > --- In WCCChat@yahoogroups.com, "tyn531" <nee.t@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On the subject of trying many bikes and demoing before buying, a lot
> > of information can be gathered by doing homework on different
> > manufacturers' websites. Most post the geometries of the frames. Whereas
> > most manufacturers are using very similar quality equipment, the frame
> > is where much of the ride difference will be derived - the wheels would
> > be the second determinant.
> > >
> > > Sheldon Brown's site gives some insights on how to interpret frame
> > geometry information.
> > >
> > > http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html
> > >
> > > Below are geometries from several popular manufacturers. The
> > Performance Road category is often where recreational riders are steered
> > towards. You can see that the geometries of this class are less
> > aggressive than the modern racing geometries (bottom set). In principle,
> > this Performance class has higher headtubes and slacker head tube
> > angles. This should promote more upright riding positions and more
> > steering stability.
> > >
> > > The Perfomance Hybrids, aside from handlebar difference, do not have
> > higher headtubes, and likely not for sure offer more upright position
> > than the Performance Road class. What they offer is longer wheelbases
> > and shallower headtube angles, which translates into more stable comfy
> > rides.
> > >
> > > Going back to the Felt Z70 and Specialized Sequoia from Bob's posts.
> > They are both more towards the comfy end of the four Performance Road
> > bikes shown below. That said, the Specialied has the higher head tube
> > (more upright) and longer wheelbase and lower bottom bracket (more
> > stable) and shallower angles (more stable and more comfy). If one wanted
> > a better climbing bike, one would move more towards the Pilot, which has
> > a shorter chainstay and wheelbase, which still maintaining a long
> > headtube. A centimeter here, and a degree there does make a difference
> > in ride characteristics. In modern days, so does the frame material in
> > combination with the geometry.
> > >
> > > ETT HA SA CS BB WB HT
> > >
> > > Performance Road
> > > Trek Pilot 2.1 55 72.5 73.3 42 26.9 99.9 18.5
> > > Cann Synapse 56 72.5 73.5 43 69 99.9 18
> > > Felt Z70 56 72.5 73.5 41.7 70 101.2 18
> > > Spec Sequoia 56.5 72 73 43 72 102.9 20
> > >
> > > Performance Hybrids
> > > Felt Speed 30 56 72.5 73.5 41.7 70 100.7 18
> > > Cann Quick 2 56 71.5 74 43 27.4 103.9 17
> > > Trek 7.6 FX 56.8 71.5 73.5 44.5 28.5 105.8 16
> > > Spec Sirrius 56 71.5 74 43.5 70 104.5 18.5
> > >
> > > Moderne Racing
> > > Trek Madone 56 73.5 73.3 41 26.8 98.3 14
> > > Felt F1 56 73.5 73.5 41 70 98.8 14
> > > Spec Tarmac 56.5 73.5 73.25 40.5 69 98.6 17
> > >
> > > ETT = Effective Horizontal Top Tube Length (cm)
> > > HA = Head Tube Angle (steeper generally means quicker steering)
> > > SA = Seat Tube Angle (steeper generally means position further
> > forward, more power goes to wheel, but may be less comfy)
> > > CS = Chain Stay Length (cm) (longer generally means more comfy rear
> > end, but more flex when power applied)
> > > BB = Bottom Bracket (cm) (either drop or height; lower BB height is
> > more stable in turns, but has less pedaling clearance)
> > > WB = Wheel Base Length (cm) (shorter is quicker like a race car, good
> > for racing, can be fatiguing for longer rides or day after day touring)
> > >
> > > ------------
> > >
> > > This is a long winded way of saying that one should do a good deal of
> > research before plunking down $1200-$1500 on a first higher quality road
> > bike. Understand what you really would like the bike to do. What are the
> > trade offs that you really want to make. For example, skiing long high
> > speed turns on a racing salom ski might not be the most enjoyable
> > combination.
> > >
> > > Decades ago when I sold bikes for a living, I remember a customer
> > coming in wanting to buy Grab-ons for a new Bianchi that he bought a few
> > weeks ago from another shop, which was a very good value for the money.
> > Value aside, he was being "pounded to death" by the aggressive racing
> > geometry (for that day and age), 74 degree head and seat tube angles,
> > 99cm wheelbase. I was willing to sell him the Grab-ons (big foam tubes
> > that are put over the handle bar), but I talked with him about what he
> > wanted to do with the bike, what type of riding. I had him try a Miyata
> > 1000 just to have him see the Grab-ons that were standard equipment. He
> > then found out what the difference a touring geometry (72 degree
> > parallel angles, 103cm wheelbase) would have on the ride. He bought the
> > Miyata. For months afterwards, I would see him on century rides and
> > checked in with him that this was really the right choice or not. I
> > wanted to assure him that I wasn't trying to force him into a purchase.
> > He consistently said it was the right choice, and I didn't force the
> > choice.
> > >
> > > On other occassions, I referred customers to that shop that sold that
> > model of Bianchi, as in my opinion, that was the best buy for the class,
> > but only for riders who were athletic and wanted to power away at speed
> > (I asked for their driving styles too). It may not be good immediate
> > business, but I believe I should refer customer to other brands that
> > might fit better, or for them to try and compare to what I had in stock.
> > In my case, I'd rather have a happy long term customer who came back to
> > buy accessories and their next bike from me than the immediate sale of a
> > bicycle.
> > >
> >
>
Thanks Kate! For this valuable advice and info on a great site for road riders
:-)
--- In WCCChat@yahoogroups.com, Katie Marshall <kttrue@...> wrote:
>
> Some of you may get the RBR newsletter. If not, check it out:
> http://www.roadbikerider.com/newsletter.htm
>
> Here is a choice bit from this week.
>
> *Davis Phinney's Tips for Winter Riding*
>
> ---*Ride with a friend or group.* Sharing conversation as well as a draft
> helps the miles go by. But group rides must be cohesive. Don't let them
> degenerate into hammerfests. You shouldn't do any hard, fast riding when the
> temperature is below 50F degrees (10C). Instead, use winter to accumulate
> base miles.
>
> ---*Don't overdress.* If you're not chilly in the first few minutes, you
> have probably worn too much and will overheat.
>
> ---*Start with hot drinks* in freezing temperatures and use insulated
> bottles or covers to increase the time before liquids turn to slush.
>
> ---*Be wary of shaded corners*, which may hide ice.
>
> ---*Wear light, bright colors* to help motorists see you on dim days.
>
> ---*Install rear reflectors* or carry reflective ankle bands for times when
> dusk catches you a few minutes from home.
>
> ---*Carry two tubes.* Patching a tube with freezing fingers isn't easy,
> should a second flat occur.
>
> ---*Don't stop for long*, if at all. Resumption of the windchill will make
> you cold, and you may be unable to shake the shivers for the rest of the
> ride.
>
> ---*Ride short on frigid days.* As a rule, you can be fairly comfortable
> for 90 minutes in subfreezing temperatures. But things may deteriorate
> quickly after that, particularly if you have raised a sweat.
>
> ---*Take time to recover after riding.* Winter takes more out of you.
> Because of the elements and your lower fitness level, a 50-mile (90-km)
> winter ride feels like 80 miles (128 km).
>
> ---*Be extra careful when you've been sick.* Don't try to make up a week of
> lost training by riding before you're completely well. There is plenty of
> time to get back on track when spring arrives.
>
> ---*Even if you live where winters are mild, you still need to go easy.* Use
> winter for recovery. Don't get caught in the flying-in-January, dead-by-June
> trap.
> Kate Marshall
>
---Ride with a friend or group.
Sharing conversation as well as a draft helps the miles go by. But
group rides must be cohesive. Don't let them degenerate into
hammerfests. You shouldn't do any hard, fast riding when the
temperature is below 50F degrees (10C). Instead, use winter to
accumulate base miles.
---Don't overdress. If you're not chilly in the first few minutes, you have probably worn too much and will overheat.
---Start with hot drinks in freezing temperatures and use insulated bottles or covers to increase the time before liquids turn to slush.
---Be wary of shaded corners, which may hide ice.
---Wear light, bright colors to help motorists see you on dim days.
---Install rear reflectors or carry reflective ankle bands for times when dusk catches you a few minutes from home.
---Carry two tubes. Patching a tube with freezing fingers isn't easy, should a second flat occur.
---Don't stop for long,
if at all. Resumption of the windchill will make you cold, and you may
be unable to shake the shivers for the rest of the ride.
---Ride short on frigid days.
As a rule, you can be fairly comfortable for 90 minutes in subfreezing
temperatures. But things may deteriorate quickly after that,
particularly if you have raised a sweat.
---Take time to recover after riding.
Winter takes more out of you. Because of the elements and your lower
fitness level, a 50-mile (90-km) winter ride feels like 80 miles (128
km).
---Be extra careful when you've been sick. Don't
try to make up a week of lost training by riding before you're
completely well. There is plenty of time to get back on track when
spring arrives.
---Even if you live where winters are mild, you still need to go easy. Use winter for recovery. Don't get caught in the flying-in-January, dead-by-June trap. Kate Marshall