My Model 92 Sherpa T (1972 350cc) has a new set of Betor trials shocks
installed.  I am not familiar with the shocks and I do not know what
the valves on the shock body are used for -- regassing? something
else?  The spring weight on the shocks is too light for my carcass --
can you point me to good sources for heavier springs?

I am trying to find a photo of the left side of a Model 92 with detail
sufficient to show how the chainguard is supposed to be mounted on the
bike.  Can anybody help?  My manual does not show what I need to see.

Thanks.

Kevin

JB,

The 181 pipe will work on the 143 . Actually they
are both the same 370 (actually 363) engine, they
just called the 143 a 360 and the 181 and 217
they decided to round up and call them 370's. The
old 360's like my 121 are 352 cc.

BTW, do you want the 143 center stand I found?

Fred Z.

At 05:18 AM 4/30/2008, you wrote:

>Hey guys,
>Any one know if you can use the exhaust system
>off a m181 on a m143? Do they fit and is there
>any issues as it has come off a 370? Also this
>may sound funny but i'm repainting my 143 and
>want to make sure i get the colours right.
>Anyone know of any paint codes that match or PMS
>(Pantone Matching System) numbers for the red and yellow?Â
>Cheers
>Jb
>
>Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
>www.yahoo7.com.au/y7mail
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Fred Z.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey guys,
Any one know if you can use the exhaust system off a m181 on a m143? Do they fit
and is there any issues as it has come off a 370? Also this may sound funny but
i'm repainting my 143 and want to make sure i get the colours right. Anyone know
of any paint codes that match or PMS (Pantone Matching System) numbers for the
red and yellow? 
Cheers
Jb


       Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
www.yahoo7.com.au/y7mail



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve,

Well, it's a little complicated but you can figure it out with an
equation.  They are supposed to be 9:1 now, figure out the cylinder
volume and piston travel.  Then increase the volume by the changing
the gasket thickness, calculate the percent difference.  Compare to
the percent difference between current compression and what you would
like it to be.  All that said:  I think 8:1 requires about a .020
gasket, which seems to be working very well for me.  If you have the
head off, take a careful measurement of the space available for a
gasket (width wise).  There isn't a lot of clearance.

Alan

Thanks Alan. I'll get some from him. How thick do you
think it needs to be on a 350 to take the compression
ratio down a full number? .020" or .030"?

Steve

--- Alan Burger <ab400@...> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Copper Gaskets Unlimited.  www,coppergaskets.us
>
> Lani Visconti - nice guy, very easy to work with.
> He'll make anything
> you want.  Price was really cheap.
>
> Alan
>
>

I am looking for a mk10 motor for a bultaco pursang.  I have a mk9
fronterra motor in the bultaco pursang rolling chassis.  I have a
152... I need a 192.


If anyone know of one please let me know. I would to prefer to build
and accurate vintage racer...

OR I am gonna sell the 1977 bultaco pursang (great shape) with the
forntera motor as is or I will part it out. If anyone is interested!

Thanks for the help

Steve,

Copper Gaskets Unlimited.  www,coppergaskets.us

Lani Visconti - nice guy, very easy to work with.  He'll make anything
you want.  Price was really cheap.

Alan

Alan,

Where did you get the headgasket? I guess I could make
one but if one might be available I'd just buy it.


Steve

--- Alan Burger <ab400@...> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> I put a head gasket in my Model 92.  They are not
> supposed to have one
> but I had one made for it.  I think it has helped a
> lot.  Much easier
> to start, doesn't hit that compression point so
> hard.  I use the bike
> in Trials so don't need the power of a 350cc.  The
> head gasket has
> made it a much nicer Trials bike overall.
>
> Alan
>
>

Sounds tricky, I suppose if I were that coordinated I might be able to pull it
off like you
do.

You do realize that once the piston is past TDC and especially after it has hit
the first port,
there isn't any compression to deal with?

But if it's working for you...

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Burger" <ab400@...> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> Hum...
>
> Seems this is trickier than first glance might show:  I don't use the
> compression release to find the compression point - that (I feel) is
> easier with full compression available.  I use it for just a 1/2
> second as I start my kick.  It lets the momentum start with no
> pressure, then you want full compression to spin the engine.
>
> Or as they say "whatever works for you"
>
> Alan
>

Steve,

I put a head gasket in my Model 92.  They are not supposed to have one
but I had one made for it.  I think it has helped a lot.  Much easier
to start, doesn't hit that compression point so hard.  I use the bike
in Trials so don't need the power of a 350cc.  The head gasket has
made it a much nicer Trials bike overall.

Alan

Kevin,

I think any kind of ATF in the primary will work okay.
Even light motor oil seems to work. Some folks have
told me that the ATF will cure some of the clutch drag
as opposed to light motor oil.

I haven't tried 50:1 oil mix. I run 35:1 727 in both
the 250 Alpina and 350 Pursang. If anyone has tried
50:1 I'd like to hear about it. I run 75:1 synthetic
in my Beta 250, but that's water cooled.

Does anyone sell a head gasket/spacer to lower the
compression ratio on a 350 M104? It's very hard to
start and I hope lower compression might help. Power
is not a consideration because the rider is very
inexperienced and still seldom even using full
throttle.

Also, would using a little less timing advance help
with the hard starting? Advice please!

Steve Elms
--- Kevin Culligan <kjculligan@...> wrote:

> A 1972 Sherpa T 350 (Model 92) is supposed to show
> up at my place
> tomorrow and I want to start playing with the bike
> right away -- work
> will have to wait.  Please let me know if you have
> any suggestions for
> a starting drill (original Amal carb).  I am
> especially interested in
> how you are supposed to use the compression release
> that is mounted in
> the head -- when do you release the release lever,
> at the same time as
> you begin the kick stroke? halfway through the kick?
> at the end of the
> stroke?  I plan to use Golden Spectro Two-Cycle
> Pre-Mix Blend -- gas to
> oil ratio suggestions?  It seems to me that 50:1
> ought to be be okay to
> start with.  Do I need race gas or will premium pump
> gas suffice?  Okay
> to use 90w hypoid oil in the transmission and ATF
> for the clutch?  Type
> VII ATF, or will Type II or III do?  Thanks.
>
> Kevin
>
>

Dave,

Hum...

Seems this is trickier than first glance might show:  I don't use the
compression release to find the compression point - that (I feel) is
easier with full compression available.  I use it for just a 1/2
second as I start my kick.  It lets the momentum start with no
pressure, then you want full compression to spin the engine.

Or as they say "whatever works for you"

Alan

Ok, I have to jump in here.

Using a compression release to start: what you are using it for is to get the
piston *just
past* TDC (this, of course, is where you will experience the maximum pressure
during the
stroke). Now the piston is almost at the top of the stroke, kicking through
sends the
piston down and back up, pulling the air/fuel in at the same time. The large
flywheel now
comes into play, helping keeping things moving.

I would not hold the compression release during the kick, and in fact, once
you've moved
the piston to the correct starting position, there is no real compression to
deal with.

With the compression release released, slowly move the kickstarter until you
feel the most
resistance. Now pull the compression release and slowly move the lever. You
should hear
a whoosh. Stop. Release the compression release. Now give it a good kick.

There are several factors people also need to keep in mind that affect the
kicking process,
size of the rider, experience of the rider (especially with the kickstarter on
the "wrong
side") and the compression ratio. And different porting may also have an effect.

Most old timers don't worry about the compression release because they know how
to set
the piston just after TDC before kicking. If you move slowly you can ease it
past, the
compression release just makes it easier. In fact that would probably be the
best way to
learn how to feel when you're at TDC.



--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Ziglar" <fredz43@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> Not a wimp, you just have found a use for a 2 stroke compression
> release that us old timers never used. They didn't come from the
> factory with compression releases and as I mentioned, many of us added
> them as a braking aid in the day. At flat track races you could hear
> the collective sound of several releases being engaged as the bikes
> came into the turns.
>
> I have 3 open class (2 370s. and 1 360) that I race and find that if I
> take the time to set them up properly, they start easily, although I
> learned many years ago that when kicking a Bul, you have to start with
> the thought in mind that you are not messing around, you are going to
> give it one heck of a kick. My Buls certainly start much more easily
> than my modern 4 stroke 250.
>
> Best of luck with your Sherpa.
>
> Fred Z.
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Burger" <ab400@> wrote:
> >
> > Fred,
> >
> > I guess I'm sort of a wimp.  I use the compression release for
> > starting because it gives me some momentum to push past the
> > compression point.  My 350 has just been rebuilt and you can stand on
> > the kick start lever and it won't go down.
> >
> > Alan
> >
>

Hi Alan,

Not a wimp, you just have found a use for a 2 stroke compression
release that us old timers never used. They didn't come from the
factory with compression releases and as I mentioned, many of us added
them as a braking aid in the day. At flat track races you could hear
the collective sound of several releases being engaged as the bikes
came into the turns.

I have 3 open class (2 370s. and 1 360) that I race and find that if I
take the time to set them up properly, they start easily, although I
learned many years ago that when kicking a Bul, you have to start with
the thought in mind that you are not messing around, you are going to
give it one heck of a kick. My Buls certainly start much more easily
than my modern 4 stroke 250.

Best of luck with your Sherpa.

Fred Z.

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Burger" <ab400@...> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I guess I'm sort of a wimp.  I use the compression release for
> starting because it gives me some momentum to push past the
> compression point.  My 350 has just been rebuilt and you can stand on
> the kick start lever and it won't go down.
>
> Alan
>

Alan - Thanks, that is just what I needed to know.  The former owner of the
bike, who rides and has no problem kick starting vintage open class 2-stroke
motocross bikes, told me that using the compression release to start the
Model 92 makes things a lot easier.  I appreciate your help.



Kevin



From: TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alan Burger
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 6:04 PM
To: TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TeamBultaco] Re: Starting Drill for Model 92 Sherpa T



Kevin,

Well here is my routine:

High test gas, 20% synthetic oil mix, Champion N12YC. Hold carb
primer down with gas running out for count of about 5. Find
compression point with kick starter, hold in compression release (let
go as soon as your foot start down with the kick starter).

I have lowered the compression from 9:1 to 8:1 (without doing that you
need the leg of a fullback). You need to have the timing set perfect
or their a bear to start.

Good luck, they are a great bike - gobs of power.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Burger" <ab400@...> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I guess I'm sort of a wimp.  I use the compression release for
> starting because it gives me some momentum to push past the
> compression point.  My 350 has just been rebuilt and you can stand on
> the kick start lever and it won't go down.
>
> Alan
>

If you do not mind me asking, how much did your rebuild cost? I have a
350 that needs a full rebuild. Compression release isn't that big of a
deal to me. I have a stihl chainsaw that is 111cc and usually do not
use the release. Compression is around 150 too.

Fred,

I guess I'm sort of a wimp.  I use the compression release for
starting because it gives me some momentum to push past the
compression point.  My 350 has just been rebuilt and you can stand on
the kick start lever and it won't go down.

Alan

On 2 stroke bikes the compression releases were installed because
the old bikes had lousy brakes. Pulling it in when riding will act as
a rear brake. It has no use when starting. Don't touch the
compression release when starting the bike. None of my 5 Buls have
the compression release installed and they all start very well.

At 04:48 PM 4/27/2008, you wrote:

>A 1972 Sherpa T 350 (Model 92) is supposed to show up at my place
>tomorrow and I want to start playing with the bike right away -- work
>will have to wait. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for
>a starting drill (original Amal carb). I am especially interested in
>how you are supposed to use the compression release that is mounted in
>the head -- when do you release the release lever, at the same time as
>you begin the kick stroke? halfway through the kick? at the end of the
>stroke? I plan to use Golden Spectro Two-Cycle Pre-Mix Blend -- gas to
>oil ratio suggestions? It seems to me that 50:1 ought to be be okay to
>start with. Do I need race gas or will premium pump gas suffice? Okay
>to use 90w hypoid oil in the transmission and ATF for the clutch? Type
>VII ATF, or will Type II or III do? Thanks.
>
>Kevin
>
>

Fred Z.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kevin,

Well here is my routine:

High test gas, 20% synthetic oil mix, Champion N12YC.  Hold carb
primer down with gas running out for count of about 5.  Find
compression point with kick starter, hold in compression release (let
go as soon as your foot start down with the kick starter).

I have lowered the compression from 9:1 to 8:1 (without doing that you
need the leg of a fullback).  You need to have the timing set perfect
or their a bear to start.

Good luck, they are a great bike - gobs of power.

A 1972 Sherpa T 350 (Model 92) is supposed to show up at my place
tomorrow and I want to start playing with the bike right away -- work
will have to wait.  Please let me know if you have any suggestions for
a starting drill (original Amal carb).  I am especially interested in
how you are supposed to use the compression release that is mounted in
the head -- when do you release the release lever, at the same time as
you begin the kick stroke? halfway through the kick? at the end of the
stroke?  I plan to use Golden Spectro Two-Cycle Pre-Mix Blend -- gas to
oil ratio suggestions?  It seems to me that 50:1 ought to be be okay to
start with.  Do I need race gas or will premium pump gas suffice?  Okay
to use 90w hypoid oil in the transmission and ATF for the clutch?  Type
VII ATF, or will Type II or III do?  Thanks.

Kevin

A 1972 Sherpa T 350 (Model 92) is supposed to show up at my place
tomorrow and I want to start playing with the bike right away -- work
will have to wait.  Please let me know if you have any suggestions for
a starting drill (original Amal carb).  I am especially interested in
how you are supposed to use the compression release that is mounted in
the head -- when do you release the release lever, at the same time as
you begin the kick stroke? halfway through the kick? at the end of the
stroke?  I plan to use Golden Spectro Two-Cycle Pre-Mix Blend -- gas to
oil ratio suggestions?  It seems to me that 50:1 ought to be be okay to
start with.  Do I need race gas or will premium pump gas suffice?  Okay
to use 90w hypoid oil in the transmission and ATF for the clutch?  Type
VII ATF, or will Type II or III do?  Thanks.

Kevin

The 136 is definetly more of a Vintage era bike than a post-Vintage.
It's cosmetics, fiberglass fenders and round tank are Vintage era.
Its 35mm forks are Vintage era and no where near the 9 inch
front/rear travel allowed in Historic 500, a big disadvantage. Would
the engine changes made for the 136 give it a big advantage in
Vintage Sportsman 500, I doubt that.
In some of the Bultaco books it shows the 136 being produced during
1974-1976. If there was a 136 manufactured in 1974 then all 136's
should qualify under the "like-design" criteria.
It is interesting that this topic has been discussed many times. The
135/136's were a hugely popular model and now it seems the best use
for the 136 is to canabalize the frame.
In AHRMA dirt track the 146 Astro races in the same Sportsman 600
class as the 123 Astro. The 146 motor is identical to a 136 Pursang
and the 123 motor is the same as a 121 Pursang. No "like-design"
issue gets raised in that case.


--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Davis" <gdinsurance@...>
wrote:
>
> My first race bike when I started vintage racing in 2003 was a
136.
> I was on a crusade a couple of seasons ago to get the
136 "legalized"
> for vintage racing and had the same question myself.  What I found
> out was that the spacing on the cylinder stud bolts are wider than
> those on the 121 and prior machines.  The 136 spacing is the same
as
> that used on all 360-370 machines afterwards and the 1979 model, I
> believe, used a reed valve jug.  So, the concern is that the reed
> valve jug could be set on the 136 lower end.  The bore and stroke
are
> a bit different as well but this issue was not as key as the reed
> valve.  Obviously there are no differences in the frame that the
> modified swingarm can't fix.
> The curious part about this is that there are so many CZs,
Elsinores,
> etc. that have been modified to accept reed valves.
> BUT, as it was put to me by the Mann himself, "you do believe that
we
> have to have a cutoff somewhere, don't you?"  To which I
said, "well,
> yes, there has to be a cutoff somewhere."  To which he said, "Well,
> this is the cutoff"  To which I said, "yes sir".
> It seems too easy to just disallow a 136 with a reed valve but.....
> Thanks for allowing me to insert my observation.  I would love to
> hear any viewpoints on this issue, agreeing or disagreeing with
mine.
> Gary Davis 42u
>
>
>
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Ziglar" <fredz43@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Linan" <linan@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, Fred Ziglar <fredz43@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Is this a 250 or 360? It is best with Buls to refer to the
> model
> > > > number rather than the year. In 75 the 250 is the M135 and
the
> > 360
> > > is
> > > > the M136. This is important if you intend to ride vintage
> classes
> > > in
> > > > AHRMA. The 135 is legal for vintage, but the 136 is not, even
> > with
> > > > the 1974 swingarm. The 135 engine was unchanged from the 120,
> but
> > > the
> > > > M136 engine was different than the 121, therefore not legal
for
> > > > vintage per AHRMA. It is legal in the post vintage classes,
> > however.
> > > >
> > > > Hugh makes replacement AHRMA legal swingarms for this model
for
> > > about $300.
> > > >
> > > > At 10:45 AM 3/18/2008, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Hello, just got this Pursang and want to race it in AHRMA. I
> will
> > > > >need a 1974 swingarm if anyone has one they can afford to
> sell. I
> > > > >also need to know the eye to eye length of the stock 1974
rear
> > > shocks.
> > > > >Does anyone know where a good service manual for this bike
can
> be
> > > > >obtained? Thanks.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Fred Z.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > Yeah Fred, it's a model 136.  In response to your comments
about
> > the
> > > 136 not being AHRMA legal, I called them and was told the book
> > reads
> > > that the 1975 model 136 frame can be used to replace the
previous
> > > year's frame if used with 1974 or prior swingarm and as so he
> said
> > I
> > > would be legal, but that doesn't address your comment about the
> > > engine.  It looks as though I would have no problem racing it,
> but
> > if
> > > you wouldn't mind telling me what you've heard about the 136
> engine
> > > that excludes it from eligibility.  Thanks.  PS. does no one
know
> > the
> > > stock shock length of the 1974 360 Pursang, model 121?
> > >
> > Mike, you are correct about the 136 frame being legal if you
change
> > the swingarm, as well as other frames, such as the 143, 152.This
is
> a
> > recent rule change. However the 136 engine had changes from the
121
> > engine and has been illegal for vintage classes since day 1.
There
> > are changes relative to cylinder stud spacing that makes them
> > stronger, I believe,as wel las other minor changes that make it
> > not "like design",therefore not legal. It has been explained here
> > before by Lobodave, who is a national AHRMA rep. Bottom line is
> that
> > although the later frames such as 136 and 143 are legal with
> swingarm
> > changes, neither the 136 or 143 engines are legal. If you got a
136
> > frame, 121 spec swingarm and a 121 engine you could run it,
> otherwise
> > you can't.
> >
> > I am out of town for a few days, but can measure my 121 swigarm
> when
> > I get back next week.
> >
>

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "friesen_dave" <davefriesen@...>
wrote:
>
I was happy to find out that my dad got it running good, I knew it
was eating him up inside that it wasn't running. He is one of those
guys that like to get things right. I have a alpina 350 engine that
is seized up, what would I expect to spend to get it rebuilt. My dad
and I would do must of the work, but I would have get someone else to
bore it out and do the crank.

> Sweet. If it's running strong you might be able to put off the
seals, although only for so
> long.
>
> But you've gotten past the first challenge, getting it running!
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> >
> > A little update. The bul is now running strong. My dad grounded
the
> > green and unhooked the yellow. I will remember to replace the
seals
> > soon. I will also post some pictures soon.
> >
> > Andy
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "friesen_dave" <davefriesen@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > And what was the green wire doing?
> > >
> > > Seals are relatively easy. Flywheel pullers are not hard to
find,
> > just make sure you get the
> > > right one.
> > >
> > > You'll also need to pull the clutch, but I think you shouldn't
have
> > to worry about the silly
> > > pins that were on earlier bikes.
> > >
> > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ok, it sounds like I need to figure out the wiring and then
> > > > investigate crank seals. My dad has rebuilt engines before so
it
> > > > shouldn't be a big deal. I know he has a flywheel puller but
it
> > is
> > > > only for electronic ignition buls. I assume a local
motorcycle
> > shop
> > > > could get the flywheel off....The funny thing about the
wiring is
> > > > that it wouldn't spark with just the black wire, it needs the
> > black
> > > > and yellow to get spark.
> > > >
> > > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.
Generally,
> > if
> > > > the
> > > > > bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are
probably
> > > > sucking
> > > > > air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly
easy
> > to
> > > > take
> > > > > care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be
> > replaced
> > > > > easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long
> > time
> > > > > needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You
> > will
> > > > need
> > > > > a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > Doug
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@>
> > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the
> > wiring
> > > > and
> > > > > > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to
take
> > the
> > > > > lights
> > > > > > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got
spark
> > back
> > > > > and he
> > > > > > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
> > > > previous
> > > > > > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad
went
> > in
> > > > and
> > > > > > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and
didn't
> > > > have
> > > > > > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and
> > backfires
> > > > > at
> > > > > > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires
but
> > only
> > > > > one
> > > > > > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some
advice
> > on
> > > > > what
> > > > > > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another
carb
> > and
> > > > > had
> > > > > > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same
way
> > but
> > > > > would
> > > > > > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could
help,
> > it
> > > > > would be
> > > > > > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that
runs
> > > > great.
> > > > > My
> > > > > > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's
and
> > > > 80's.
> > > > > He
> > > > > > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Sweet. If it's running strong you might be able to put off the seals, although
only for so
long.

But you've gotten past the first challenge, getting it running!

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@...> wrote:
>
> A little update. The bul is now running strong. My dad grounded the
> green and unhooked the yellow. I will remember to replace the seals
> soon. I will also post some pictures soon.
>
> Andy
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "friesen_dave" <davefriesen@>
> wrote:
> >
> > And what was the green wire doing?
> >
> > Seals are relatively easy. Flywheel pullers are not hard to find,
> just make sure you get the
> > right one.
> >
> > You'll also need to pull the clutch, but I think you shouldn't have
> to worry about the silly
> > pins that were on earlier bikes.
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, it sounds like I need to figure out the wiring and then
> > > investigate crank seals. My dad has rebuilt engines before so it
> > > shouldn't be a big deal. I know he has a flywheel puller but it
> is
> > > only for electronic ignition buls. I assume a local motorcycle
> shop
> > > could get the flywheel off....The funny thing about the wiring is
> > > that it wouldn't spark with just the black wire, it needs the
> black
> > > and yellow to get spark.
> > >
> > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally,
> if
> > > the
> > > > bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably
> > > sucking
> > > > air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy
> to
> > > take
> > > > care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be
> replaced
> > > > easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long
> time
> > > > needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You
> will
> > > need
> > > > a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > Doug
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the
> wiring
> > > and
> > > > > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take
> the
> > > > lights
> > > > > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark
> back
> > > > and he
> > > > > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
> > > previous
> > > > > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went
> in
> > > and
> > > > > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't
> > > have
> > > > > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and
> backfires
> > > > at
> > > > > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but
> only
> > > > one
> > > > > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice
> on
> > > > what
> > > > > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb
> and
> > > > had
> > > > > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way
> but
> > > > would
> > > > > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help,
> it
> > > > would be
> > > > > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs
> > > great.
> > > > My
> > > > > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and
> > > 80's.
> > > > He
> > > > > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

A little update. The bul is now running strong. My dad grounded the
green and unhooked the yellow. I will remember to replace the seals
soon. I will also post some pictures soon.

Andy

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "friesen_dave" <davefriesen@...>
wrote:
>
> And what was the green wire doing?
>
> Seals are relatively easy. Flywheel pullers are not hard to find,
just make sure you get the
> right one.
>
> You'll also need to pull the clutch, but I think you shouldn't have
to worry about the silly
> pins that were on earlier bikes.
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> >
> > Ok, it sounds like I need to figure out the wiring and then
> > investigate crank seals. My dad has rebuilt engines before so it
> > shouldn't be a big deal. I know he has a flywheel puller but it
is
> > only for electronic ignition buls. I assume a local motorcycle
shop
> > could get the flywheel off....The funny thing about the wiring is
> > that it wouldn't spark with just the black wire, it needs the
black
> > and yellow to get spark.
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally,
if
> > the
> > > bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably
> > sucking
> > > air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy
to
> > take
> > > care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be
replaced
> > > easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long
time
> > > needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You
will
> > need
> > > a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> > > Cheers,
> > > Doug
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the
wiring
> > and
> > > > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take
the
> > > lights
> > > > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark
back
> > > and he
> > > > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
> > previous
> > > > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went
in
> > and
> > > > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't
> > have
> > > > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and
backfires
> > > at
> > > > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but
only
> > > one
> > > > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice
on
> > > what
> > > > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb
and
> > > had
> > > > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way
but
> > > would
> > > > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help,
it
> > > would be
> > > > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs
> > great.
> > > My
> > > > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and
> > 80's.
> > > He
> > > > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

And what was the green wire doing?

Seals are relatively easy. Flywheel pullers are not hard to find, just make sure
you get the
right one.

You'll also need to pull the clutch, but I think you shouldn't have to worry
about the silly
pins that were on earlier bikes.

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@...> wrote:
>
> Ok, it sounds like I need to figure out the wiring and then
> investigate crank seals. My dad has rebuilt engines before so it
> shouldn't be a big deal. I know he has a flywheel puller but it is
> only for electronic ignition buls. I assume a local motorcycle shop
> could get the flywheel off....The funny thing about the wiring is
> that it wouldn't spark with just the black wire, it needs the black
> and yellow to get spark.
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally, if
> the
> > bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably
> sucking
> > air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy to
> take
> > care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be replaced
> > easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long time
> > needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You will
> need
> > a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> > Cheers,
> > Doug
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the wiring
> and
> > > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take the
> > lights
> > > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark back
> > and he
> > > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
> previous
> > > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went in
> and
> > > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't
> have
> > > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and backfires
> > at
> > > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but only
> > one
> > > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice on
> > what
> > > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb and
> > had
> > > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way but
> > would
> > > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help, it
> > would be
> > > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs
> great.
> > My
> > > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and
> 80's.
> > He
> > > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> > >
> >
>

Ok, it sounds like I need to figure out the wiring and then
investigate crank seals. My dad has rebuilt engines before so it
shouldn't be a big deal. I know he has a flywheel puller but it is
only for electronic ignition buls. I assume a local motorcycle shop
could get the flywheel off....The funny thing about the wiring is
that it wouldn't spark with just the black wire, it needs the black
and yellow to get spark.

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@...>
wrote:
>
> Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally, if
the
> bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably
sucking
> air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy to
take
> care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be replaced
> easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long time
> needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You will
need
> a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the wiring
and
> > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take the
> lights
> > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark back
> and he
> > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
previous
> > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went in
and
> > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't
have
> > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and backfires
> at
> > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but only
> one
> > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice on
> what
> > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb and
> had
> > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way but
> would
> > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help, it
> would be
> > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs
great.
> My
> > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and
80's.
> He
> > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> >
>

Doh, the infamous Bultaco seals... how could I forget?

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" <walk9940@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally, if the
> bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably sucking
> air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy to take
> care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be replaced
> easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long time
> needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You will need
> a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the wiring and
> > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take the
> lights
> > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark back
> and he
> > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The previous
> > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went in and
> > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't have
> > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and backfires
> at
> > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but only
> one
> > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice on
> what
> > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb and
> had
> > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way but
> would
> > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help, it
> would be
> > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs great.
> My
> > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and 80's.
> He
> > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> >
>

Sounds like  a classic case of blown crank seals.  Generally, if the
bike starts easily, it is not the ignition. You are probably sucking
air and the oil out of the primary case.  This is fairly easy to take
care of as the seals are located in carriers and can be replaced
easily.  Any 2 stroke bike that has been sitting for a long time
needs the seals changed for insurance if nothing else.  You will need
a clutch holder and a flywheel puller to get at the seals.
Cheers,
Doug




--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the wiring and
> ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take the
lights
> and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark back
and he
> rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The previous
> owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went in and
> fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't have
> unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and backfires
at
> halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but only
one
> coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice on
what
> could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb and
had
> the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way but
would
> idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help, it
would be
> greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs great.
My
> dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and 80's.
He
> has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
>

Carb sounds about right. On my 250 Sherpa T it's a 160 and 35 pilot.

Ah, the infamous "Which wire goes where on my Bultaco?" Been there, done that.

Black = Coil, actually I've moved the condenser next to the coil so my wiring
there is more
like Black>JunctionBox>Coil + Jumper Wire from Black wire to Condenser. You can
read
more about that and see a picture of the wiring here:

http://tinyurl.com/2lbc89

Yellow = Lighting so I don't use that.

Green = Ground, I like to ground to the Coil mount.

Red = No idea. Brake light?

Once you know the wiring is right you can deal with the rest.

--- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@...> wrote:
>
> 160 main jet, u needle, 30 pilot jet. Amal 27.
>
> Ok, it doesn't have a electronic ignition. I got messed up with that.
>
> A little more detail here. It has a black, green, yellow and red
> wires. It wouldn't spark with just the black wire but will spark with
> black and yellow. Also, when checking the points with a current
> tester, the tester does not go out when the points aren't touching.
> My dad will come on tomorrow and will answer/provide questions and
> information.
>
> --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "friesen_dave" <davefriesen@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Care to post your carb's specs? Size? Jet sizes?
> >
> > I didn't know 1975 Alpinas had electronic ignition. Is that right?
> >
> > Spark plug?
> >
> > The more details, the better chance of narrowing down the problem.
> >
> > --- In TeamBultaco@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <epicklein22@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1975 alpina 250 that has given me fits with the wiring
> and
> > > ignition. My dad got it running and then we decided to take the
> lights
> > > and horn off the bike and then lost spark. My dad got spark back
> and he
> > > rode it around for a few minutes or so and it ran ok. The
> previous
> > > owner had messed with the wiring quite a bit so my dad went in
> and
> > > fixed up the wiring a little bit so it was cleaner and didn't
> have
> > > unneed connections. Well now it runs extremely rich and backfires
> at
> > > halfthrottle and will not idle. The bike has three wires but only
> one
> > > coming from the electronic coil. So can any lend some advice on
> what
> > > could cause the bike to run badly now? We tried another carb and
> had
> > > the same results. I have a alpina 350 that ran the same way but
> would
> > > idle. It is a points ignition though. If anyone could help, it
> would be
> > > greatly appreciated. I have a alpina 250 right now that runs
> great. My
> > > dad used to ride a pursang and sherpa t back in the 70's and
> 80's. He
> > > has a lot of knowledge on bikes but is currently stumped.
> > >
> >
>