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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

I bought a muzzle loader from the states a couple of years ago.  To save on
a lot of red tape, I just asked a local merchant to bring in the rifle I
wanted.  I paid a small good faith deposit, and had my gun in just a couple
of weeks.  Since it was a flintlock (and thus classed as an "antique"), it
was unnecessary for me to register it.  I believe caplocks also count as
"antique" firearms, provided that they are not of a modern design (ie: a
modern inline would have to be registered, but an American Civil War replica
would not).  So, it's not neccessary to register "antique" muzzleloaders,
nor do you need a FAC/PAL to buy one.  I don't have a PAL, but was still
able to legally buy my muzzleloader.  This applies only to "antique" rifles,
though.  "Antique" pistols DO require an FAC/PAL, but they are not
considered a restricted firearm.  Hope this helps.

Kev


----- Original Message -----
From: "d.spend" <d.spend@...>
To: <Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:17 AM
Subject: [Muzzleloaders] selling muzzleloaders to canadians


> does anyone know what steps need to be taken for me a canadian to buy
> a muzzleloader in the states?i was told by the canadian firearms
> center,i just have to register the rifle and send that registration to
> the seller he puts it in with the gun and ships.

use can order a gun from bass pro

"John W." <firearms_engraving@...> wrote:          In the US you need only
walk into the store and hand them the cash... Muzzleloaders are
considered "non-weapons" by our BATFE.

Good luck,
John
Camp Verde, AZ USA

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "d.spend" <d.spend@...> wrote:
>
> does anyone know what steps need to be taken for me a canadian to buy
> a muzzleloader in the states?i was told by the canadian firearms
> center,i just have to register the rifle and send that registration to
> the seller he puts it in with the gun and ships.check this web site.
>
> http://www.international.gc.ca/eicb/military/faq-en.asp?format=print
>
> what are your laws?
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In the US you need only walk into the store and hand them the cash... 
Muzzleloaders are
considered "non-weapons" by our BATFE.

Good luck,
John
Camp Verde, AZ  USA


--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "d.spend" <d.spend@...> wrote:
>
> does anyone know what steps need to be taken for me a canadian to buy
> a muzzleloader in the states?i was told by the canadian firearms
> center,i just have to register the rifle and send that registration to
> the seller he puts it in with the gun and ships.check this web site.
>
> http://www.international.gc.ca/eicb/military/faq-en.asp?format=print
>
> what are your laws?
>

does anyone know what steps need to be taken for me a canadian to buy
a muzzleloader in the states?i was told by the canadian firearms
center,i just have to register the rifle and send that registration to
the seller he puts it in with the gun and ships.check this web site.

http://www.international.gc.ca/eicb/military/faq-en.asp?format=print

what are your laws?

I'll second Ken's response - your bullets just "rusted" a little.

-Kees-

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "earnhardt31271"
<earnhardt31271@...> wrote:
>
> does any one know what i can use to help the ease of pushing sabots
> down the bore of my muzzle loader.
>


John, Thompson Center makes sabots that are easy to load after every
shot, they are called Superglide Sabots, I use them in my New England
Huntsman .50, I bought mine at a wal mart win a pack with T/C
shockwave bullets, 15 shots.  They have the packs with bonded and
regular bullets.  Knight also has easy loading sabots as well.  Good luck.

AMEN!!!  Keep on preachin' Brother!!!  Why shoot a front-stuffer if you're
trying to replicate
a high power scoped tack-driver?  Kinda defeats the whole nostalgic aspect of
the white
smoke and thunder of the real deal...

John
Camp Verde, AZ


> Howdy,
>                 When shooting plastic in that front stuffer you must clean
> between shots or they  will be hard to load.The plasic sabot has no way of
> keeping the fouling soft. I  suggest getting a traditional rifle so you can
shoot
> the original sabot which is  a patched rounball. That would solve your
problem.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

In a message dated 1/21/2008 11:54:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
earnhardt31271@... writes:




does any one know what i can use to help the ease of pushing sabots
down  the bore of my muzzle  loader.







Howdy,
                 When shooting plastic in that front stuffer you must clean
between shots or they  will be hard to load.The plasic sabot has no way of
keeping the fouling soft. I  suggest getting a traditional rifle so you can
shoot
the original sabot which is  a patched rounball. That would solve your problem.

Don



**************Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

does any one know what i can use to help the ease of pushing sabots
down the bore of my muzzle loader.

thanks for the info i was'nt sure if i would have to cast them again
there's 600 or700 of them, better clean and shoot em before the powder
goes bad lol.

The white stuff is just lead oxide.  It is to lead what rust (iron oxide) is to
iron.  Unless they're really corroded there's no reason not to shoot them.

I've had the same thing happen; it's just our equipment's way of asking us to
store it in a drier location.Ken> From: d.spend@...> > i was going through
my box's of bullets today and found that some of> the bullets had a white moldy
look to them.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it's what I think it is, it's very dangerous to
handle---lead sulphate can transmigrate to your lungs
quicker than you can imagine.  Scrupulously clean
every surface the bullets have touched wearing latex
gloves and wipe the bullets down with Simple Green
or such.  You really don't want to be too casual with
that stuff.....  Do everything you can OUTSIDE.....

roger in NWMontana********************************


--- Bryan Womack <grizs50@...> wrote:

> Hey,
>
> Clean them up with WD-40 and shootem.
>
>
> --- "d.spend" <d.spend@...> wrote:
>
> some of
> > the bullets had a white moldy look to them.
>
>       ymhbiC
>
> Bryan(Griz)Womack
>
> Life's journey is not about arriving at the grave in
> a well preserved body, but rather sliding in
> sideways, totally worn out, screaming - "HOLY COW
> MAN, WHAT A RIDE!"
>
> http://www.biblegateway.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
>
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
>
>
> http://www.bp-outdoors.com/muzzleloader.html . . .
> Muzzleloaders, Shooting, Hunting and Outdoor
> resources.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:Muzzleloaders-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>


CALLING AN ILLEGAL ALIEN AN "UNDOCUMENTED IMMIGRANT"
IS LIKE CALLING A DRUG DEALER AN "UNLICENSED PHARMACIST"


      
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Hey,

Clean them up with WD-40 and shootem.


--- "d.spend" <d.spend@...> wrote:

some of
> the bullets had a white moldy look to them.

       ymhbiC

Bryan(Griz)Womack

Life's journey is not about arriving at the grave in a well preserved body, but
rather sliding in sideways, totally worn out, screaming - "HOLY COW MAN, WHAT A
RIDE!"

http://www.biblegateway.com










      
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i was going through my box's of bullets today and found that some of
the bullets had a white moldy look to them.i had smaller box's inside
a bigger one.as i took the bullets out of the smaller box and put them
on my desk some of the mold came off.as i handled the bullets the mold
felt like a graghite powder.
has anyone seen this before?they have been stored for 3or4 years and
got wet [do to a broken water tank].
thanx

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, dave swanson <swada54@...> wrote:
>
> I learned about poking a hole through the center of a home cast
bullet when I was learning to reload my 357 mag I thought it was the
heat but after reading what you wrote it makes more sense ,I stand
corrected and have now learned a little more .

Dave,

Upon further reflection, my lead bullets for .30 caliber have gas checks
which keep the base from melting.  However, the .357 (and before that,
.44 special loaded to 1000 fps) do not have the gas checks and still
did not seem to have any gas-cutting problems.

With a muzzleloader shooting a patched round ball the patch will keep
the lead from getting hot enough to melt.  On the other hand, when I
shoot Lee R.E.A.L. bullets I don't think there was this problem either.
That was using black powder; the higher temperatures of smokeless
might be a concern, but the excess pressures would still be the danger.

-Kees-

I learned about poking a hole through the center of a home cast bullet when I
was learning to reload my 357 mag I thought it was the heat but after reading
what you wrote it makes more sense ,I stand corrected and have now learned a
little more .
   Perhaps next time I make an observation it will be more cheers less beers.
   Cheers
   Dave
kees99919 <kees99919@...> wrote:
           --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, dave swanson <swada54@...>
wrote:
>
> I agree with Mark ,as well the heat generated by the energy
> created in the use of smokeless powder has the potential to
> melt the center out of the projectile leaving you with a very
> interesting problem.

I'll have to remember that the next time I shoot home cast bullets
out of my .308 Winchester or .30-30 rifles, not to forget the
.357 mag pistol....

It's not the heat, it's the higher pressures developed by
smokeless which is the danger. The Savage ML rifle is designed
to shoot smokeless powder, though I have heard tales of even
that gun bursting. Other black powder firearms are made of mild
steel and cannot withstand the pressures which you get with
smokeless.

-Kees-






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--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, dave swanson <swada54@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Mark ,as well the heat generated by the energy
> created in the use of smokeless powder has the potential to
> melt the center out of the projectile leaving you with a very
> interesting problem.

I'll have to remember that the next time I shoot home cast bullets
out of my .308 Winchester or .30-30 rifles, not to forget the
.357 mag pistol....

It's not the heat, it's the higher pressures developed by
smokeless which is the danger.  The Savage ML rifle is designed
to shoot smokeless powder, though I have heard tales of even
that gun bursting.  Other black powder firearms are made of mild
steel and cannot withstand the pressures which you get with
smokeless.

-Kees-

> Answered & send.  Dont know if it helps.  Good luck
> on your project.
>
> Kenneth

Hello Ken, I didn't get the attached questionnaire.

thanks,

eric


      
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In a message dated 1/4/2008 5:01:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dbautorepair@... writes:

Hi  Don
Thanks for the information on the whitworth i had
herd the rifle was  touche with loading. I think i will
go with the Pedersoli Gibbs. Iam  looking for accuracy
and long range to hunt antelope out west.I would  like
to use it to shoot groundhogs here in Ohio good
practice for out  west.Do you think this rifle will do
the job?
Thanks  Again
Duane



Howdy Duane.
                       A good place to get the Gibbs is from Joe Hepsworth who
owns J.cunyard.co. He  has set many new records with the Gibbs. He can set
you up with everything you  need for that rifle. Very nice gentleman to deal
with. I have the platinum lined  nipple and lock upgrade from Bob Roller. I hope
to be able to try out for the U.  S team to go for world championship next
time around. As far as hunting goes  with them the accuracy is there but you
have
to be one hell of a shot past 300  yards because of the high arc of the
bullet with these things. A good  range finder is a must because a mere 10 yards
in
distance error can mean a  complete miss on game. I have not used my Gibbs
for hunting but it should do a  good job. I have killed a few deer out to a full
700 yards with a sharps  45-120  equipped with a Malcolm telescopic sight and
  using  a   range finder. It will take a lot of practice to  get good enough
to whack an antelope at long range with the Gibbs. You just  might be the
first one in history to hunt a groundhog with a gibbs. If you get  one and go
groundhogging with it I would like to pair up with you at the oak  ridge long
range match.

Don



**************Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Don
  Thanks for the information on the whitworth i had
herd the rifle was touche with loading. I think i will
go with the Pedersoli Gibbs. Iam looking for accuracy
and long range to hunt antelope out west.I would like
to use it to shoot groundhogs here in Ohio good
practice for out west.Do you think this rifle will do
the job?
   Thanks Again
   Duane
--- BPCS0631@... wrote:

>
> In a message dated 12/31/2007 10:14:56 AM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> dbautorepair@... writes:
>
> HI
> Iam looking for information on the whitworth rifle
> iam thinking
> about buying one from dixie gun works. Has anyone
> got one and is using
> it if so how good does it shoot and do you cast your
> own  bullets.
> Thanks
> Duane
>
>
>
>
> Howdy Duane,
>
>                         I have a parker hale
> whitworth that was made in
> England. A couple of years after  I got mine they
> started having them made in
> Spain. I forgot the name of the  company building
> them now. I have not seen any of
> the Italian made whitworth  rifles do much of
> anything in the accuracy dept.
> The quality of the barrels and  locks are not on par
> with the rifles built in
> England. The hex bore will give  you a lot of
> trouble with a hex bullet. Plus a
> good mold for that hex will cost  a fortune. I and
> many others are getting
> good groups with round  50-1 Cast  grease groove
> bullets. You can buy a
> pedersoli Gibbs for a couple hundred extra  and have
> the most accurate factory made
> long range muzzleloader.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> **************************************See AOL's top
> rated recipes
>
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>



      
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Eric:Questionnaire ought to be attached.  Good luck with your project!

All the best,
Ken Nellis> To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com> From: elmcclur@...> Date:
Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:54:55 +0000> Subject: [Muzzleloaders] questionnaire> >
bpoutdoors,> > Hi my name is Eric. I would like to introduce myself as a fellow
hunter and one who owns > around 14 different muzzleloading pistols, rifles and
cartridge firearms that use > blackpowder. > > I live in Oklahoma and a member
of tri-city gun club. Hopefully there are others around > here too. > > I am
also trying to finish a questionnaire for my research and development class at >
University of Phoenix. I have built a website to use an educational exercise. I
am trying to > gather data and some valid statistics about our sport. I do not
need member names all I > want is opinions about the gear they use. This is for
a GRADE!> > I was also hoping that this could result in a FAQ for new members. I
am trying to give > back to a community that has given me so much knowledge.> >
The site is http://matchcastandswage.com/Downloads.html. All I need is members
to fill > out where applicable and email me back.> > I do not intend offense,
just trying to finish a school project for my degree.> > Thank you,> > Eric L
Mcclure> >
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I agree with Mark ,as well the heat generated by the energy created in the use
of smokless powder has the potential to melt the center out of the projectile
leaving you with a very interesting problem. Black powder is still burning after
the projectile has left the barrel  but smokeless is instantanious all powder
burnt in a millisecond ,as near as I can understand it if you take a normal
table grape place it on a solid flat surface and press down on it with your
thumb untill it bursts this represents the energy expenditure of blackpowder .
Now take another grape of equal size and place it on the same  flat surface and
place the same thumb on the grape and get a friend to hit that thumb with a 4lb
engineering hammer thus simulating the energy expenditure of smokeless powder (
this experiment is dangerous , and not advised by myself or anyone that I know,
if you do it you do it at your own risk, the least you can expect is to lose two
grapes ,possibly a good friend that you
  trust ? not to mention credibility with your shooting buddies when you try to
explain why you need someone to help you cock your lock ) There is a reason the
are called BLACKPOWDER firearms.

   Cheers with Beers
   Dave
Mark Graham <shootemup@...> wrote:


chrish483 <chrish@...> wrote: what is the difference between 150
grains of black powder and say 5 grains of smokless powder? is it
the same? or not

No, it is not the same. Chris, black powder and modern, "smokeless" powder are
two completely different animals. Black powder does more of a burn, where
smokeless more or less explodes. "Burn" and "explode" might not be the very best
terms to describe their differences, but try and think of it that way.
The modern powder detonates with a very sudden "spike" of energy that you just
don't get with black powder.
The two are simply not the same. Using smaller amounts of modern will never give
the same performance as a larger amount of black.
Mark

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

chrish483 <chrish@...> wrote:                               what is the
difference between 150
  grains of black powder and say 5 grains of smokless powder? is it
  the same? or not

No, it is not the same. Chris, black powder and modern, "smokeless" powder are
two completely different animals. Black powder does more of a burn, where
smokeless more or less explodes. "Burn" and "explode" might not be the very best
terms to describe their differences, but try and think of it that way.
The modern powder detonates with a very sudden "spike" of energy that you just
don't get with black powder.
The two are simply not the same. Using smaller amounts of modern will never give
the same performance as a larger amount of black.
Mark





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 1/1/2008 9:48:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kenglena@... writes:

>  Hi Don,
>
Yeah, I use #13 bore cleaner. No, I havent use hot water  to clean it
yet. I just run soaked patch thru then brush then run patch  thru again
then run patch soaked bore butter thru every 3rd shoot. The  brush is
hardest to get out once it goes in. I'm thinking about skipping  the
brush part just run soaked patch thru then run bore butter patch thru
for every shoot. Any thoughts about this? Thanks for the cleaning and
rust preventive tip.

Thanks,
Kenneth



Howdy Ken,
                    I do not use a brush to clean with. Just by using the
patch method alone keeps  my long range muzzleloaders accurate at a thousand
yards. If you are shooting a  plastic sabot bullet you will need a brush to
remove
the plastic out of the  bore. In my hunting muzzleloaders I do not clean
between shots. I have found  that after firing the first shot if you place the
hammer on half cock and blow  gently down the barrel from the muzzle until all
smoke is gone the fouling stays  soft and I can fire five shots into a three
inch
circle at one hundred yards  using this method. That's with a.54cal pedersoli
hawken rifle 34" barrel patched  round ball and 90gr. Swiss ffg. Hope this
helps

Don



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--- "Kenneth, Glena, & Hannah"
<kenglena@...> wrote:

> Hi   r1kk1,
>
> > If you google blackpowder cleaning, loading, etc.
> there are as many
> > opinions as sites.
>
> Good tip, thanks.
>
> > I use "moose milk" to clean my frontstuffers,
> before and after I
> > shoot. I use a product
> > called Ballistol to lube.
>
No ballistol can be found in both liquid and spray can
form. It is a water soluble oil. It's not the same as
#13.

I do like to use moose milk or #13 to clean with, but
ballistol is used to oil my firearms as well as patch
lubricant.

> Is it the same as #13 bore cleaner?  I use bore
> butter but will change
> as I learn & grow.
>
> > I shoot mainly patched round balls that I cast
> myself. I prefer a .010
> > patch with a .490
> > round ball for my fifties.
>
> I use pre-lubed patch & ball.  .010 pre-lubed wonder
> patch with hornandy
> .490 lead .50 caliber ball.
>
> > I do cast and shoot an assortment of conical style
> bullets.
>
> Plan on shoot conicals someday & no plan to cast.
>
> > I would look for a blackpowder starter kit:
> >
> > A metal ramrod with a muzzle protector.
>
> Got one, no muzzle protector.
tack of the wolf, comes to mind for muzzle protectors.
It keeps your ramrod in line of the bore so the rod
does not touch the rifling and crown.
>
> > A short starter.
>
> Got one with palm saver.
>
> > A powder measure that would read up to 150 gr.
>
> Got one with see thru... need horn or something to
> pour in.
>
> > A cleaning brush for your .50
>
> Got one but real hard to pull out once it goes in
> barrel
>
> > A jag/bullet seater for your .50
>
> Got one along with patch worm, bullet puller, & mop
>
> > A nipple wrench.
>
> Got one with wedge puller & hammer combo.  Found
> nipple wrench too small
> for musket nipple... plan to mill the sides & drill
> hole to fit.
>
> > Then you can add to this list. You might want to
> buy a tackle box
> > since muzzleloaders
> > generally collect gadgets, geegaws, and trinkets.
>
> Will use cardboard box for now until save up for bag
> or box.
>
> > I use loose powder and avoid pellets for personal
> reasons only.
>
> I have cans of Goex FFg .  Undecided until they are
> all gone.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Kenneth
>
>
take care,

eric


      
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--- chrish483 <chrish@...> wrote:

> the only thing ive really heard about and dont
> recommend AT ALL,
> some i know have found the right measurement in
> grains with modern
> smokeless powder and using them in the latest inline
> muzzleloaders
> but DONT DO IT, its to risky,  what is the
> difference between 150
> grains of black powder and say 5 grains of smokless
> powder? is it
> the same? or not
>
I have heard this in only one other place, I believe
the author was matthews and it was pertaining to a
cartridge rifle. In that book he was talking about
fast propellant. I would not try this! Pressures from
fast powders have been know to destroy rifles,
pistols, etc. I do not want to start a thread about
this but I totally agree with what is written above. I
use powders for intended purpose, with documentation
to back it up. I may sound like a sissy, but I like me
and my firearms.

Over 20 years ago, I know what a double charge can do.
I had a angel on my shoulder (he died of a heart
attack!), and a very well built firearm. It was a
situation dealing with another topic entirely. Just
think specials and double charge.

Anywho, sorry for the soapbox. If I don't burn a pound
of powder at one sitting, covered from head to toe,
then I'm not shooting!

The smell of black still makes me smile.

take care,

eric




      
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Hi   r1kk1,

> If you google blackpowder cleaning, loading, etc. there are as many
> opinions as sites.

Good tip, thanks.

> I use "moose milk" to clean my frontstuffers, before and after I
> shoot. I use a product
> called Ballistol to lube.

Is it the same as #13 bore cleaner?  I use bore butter but will change
as I learn & grow.

> I shoot mainly patched round balls that I cast myself. I prefer a .010
> patch with a .490
> round ball for my fifties.

I use pre-lubed patch & ball.  .010 pre-lubed wonder patch with hornandy
.490 lead .50 caliber ball.

> I do cast and shoot an assortment of conical style bullets.

Plan on shoot conicals someday & no plan to cast.

> I would look for a blackpowder starter kit:
>
> A metal ramrod with a muzzle protector.

Got one, no muzzle protector.

> A short starter.

Got one with palm saver.

> A powder measure that would read up to 150 gr.

Got one with see thru... need horn or something to pour in.

> A cleaning brush for your .50

Got one but real hard to pull out once it goes in barrel

> A jag/bullet seater for your .50

Got one along with patch worm, bullet puller, & mop

> A nipple wrench.

Got one with wedge puller & hammer combo.  Found nipple wrench too small
for musket nipple... plan to mill the sides & drill hole to fit.

> Then you can add to this list. You might want to buy a tackle box
> since muzzleloaders
> generally collect gadgets, geegaws, and trinkets.

Will use cardboard box for now until save up for bag or box.

> I use loose powder and avoid pellets for personal reasons only.

I have cans of Goex FFg .  Undecided until they are all gone.


Thanks,
Kenneth

i just read some review on this product and every on said it garbage he review
was on bass pro web site

don kolodziejczak <tumbleweedhunter1@...> wrote:           you r right i
seen the add on tv this morning he name of this product is American Pioneer Jim
Shockey's™ Gold™ Sticks™ Compressed Charges

Mike Earls <mikeearls@...> wrote: The first one I thought of was Jim
Shockey's Gold.

But I found no such claim on their website.

Mike Earls

"After the Virginia Tech shooting, people asked whether a CCL holder could have
made a difference
once the shooting started. Jeanne Assam answered that question on Sunday."
Edward Morrissey

----- Original Message -----
From:
To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 12/31/2007 7:40:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Muzzleloaders] black powder

In a message dated 12/31/2007 4:05:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
elmcclur@... writes:

You might want to do a google search on 1000 times
without cleaning muzzleloader.

take care,

eric

Eric,
The claim made by that company is very misleading. On another forum a
couple of years ago that claim was looked into by manny very knowledgeable
people including lab tecks and a scientist. If it was true the wonder lube
would rule the long range muzzle loader and BPCR shoots. I have tried using that
stuff for bullet lube for muzzle loader and sharps. It does not work period.
If you have a loose fitting patched round ball in a muzzle loader just spit
on the patch it will work just as good as wonder lube 1000+. A scientist and
fellow black powder shooter named Bill Knight wrote a very informative
arctical on hygroscopic particles in black powder fouling and black powder
lubes.
It is posted in the archives of another forum

**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

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you r right i seen the add on tv this morning he name of this product is
American Pioneer Jim Shockey's™ Gold™ Sticks™ Compressed Charges


Mike Earls <mikeearls@...> wrote:          The first one I thought of
was Jim Shockey's Gold.

But I found no such claim on their website.

Mike Earls

"After the Virginia Tech shooting, people asked whether a CCL holder could have
made a difference
once the shooting started. Jeanne Assam answered that question on Sunday."
Edward Morrissey

----- Original Message -----
From:
To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 12/31/2007 7:40:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Muzzleloaders] black powder

In a message dated 12/31/2007 4:05:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
elmcclur@... writes:

You might want to do a google search on 1000 times
without cleaning muzzleloader.

take care,

eric

Eric,
The claim made by that company is very misleading. On another forum a
couple of years ago that claim was looked into by manny very knowledgeable
people including lab tecks and a scientist. If it was true the wonder lube
would rule the long range muzzle loader and BPCR shoots. I have tried using that
stuff for bullet lube for muzzle loader and sharps. It does not work period.
If you have a loose fitting patched round ball in a muzzle loader just spit
on the patch it will work just as good as wonder lube 1000+. A scientist and
fellow black powder shooter named Bill Knight wrote a very informative
arctical on hygroscopic particles in black powder fouling and black powder
lubes.
It is posted in the archives of another forum

**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

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