I recently got into muzzleloading and enjoy the more "traditional"
guns. I recommend either the Thompson Center Hawken .50 caliber or,
even better if you want to build your own, the Traditions Hawken St.
Louis .50 caliber that comes in an uncompleted kit. I just finished
one and it was a lot of fun to build and it is a great looking gun. I
posted some pictures of it in the photo section under Alexsbuddy'
Guns. Both guns are relatively inexpensive for a first timer and
should offer you valuable experience.



--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "crashs1990" <crashs1990@...>
wrote:
>
> I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start
out
> with for deer.
>

Pedersoli makes an excellent double-barreled shotgun.   Reasonably priced.
Lots of second-hand models available.  Of course,  you have to get kinda close
for deer.  Smooth-bore muskets are cheap on the  internet.  Don't cost much
more than shotguns.  Reasonable accuracy  from a four to five foot barrel, even
if it is smooth-bore.  Or...you can  pay four or five times that much money
for a hand-made "smooth" rifle.  And  don't ask me how that term came about.  I
have no idea, and probably no one  else does either.  If you're close to NEPA,
you can borrow one of my  Thompson Center guns.  I have more than a couple,
cause they're really  cheap.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This depends on your personal tastes. If you enjoy history and have a desire to
experience hunting as was done in the old days, you will want a "traditional
style" rifle.
   I suggest that you buy a percussion model. Flintlocks are for the more
advanced shooter.
   A Thompson Center Hawkin in 50 caliber is a good place to start.

   If you just want to kill something, any of the new inline models will offer
quick, sure-fire igniton. Many are very reasonalbly priced.
   Good luck and good shooting, John Davis

crashs1990 <crashs1990@...> wrote:
           I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start out
with for deer.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I, too, hunt with an NEF (the one I bought was called a "Huntsman",
the earlier version of the Sidekick, but virtually the same gun). I
use Powerbelt bullets and 777 powder, and I have a Bushnell scope
mounted on it. I took a small buck with it during our muzzleloader
season here in Oklahoma. Great little gun, and as you pointed out,
modest on price.

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "shkiii35" <shkiii35@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "crashs1990" <crashs1990@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to
start
> out
> > with for deer.
> >
> This was my first year for muzzleloader hunting and I chose the NEF
> Sidekick.  Cabela's offers this gun in a package deal with a Pine
Ridge
> scope.  Very accurate and easy to use with the break-open breech.
I
> shot Thompson Shockwave Sabots out of it and used 777 pellets.  90
> grains seemed to be a very comfortable, accurate, and dependable
load.
> I shot my first deer in October...heart and both lungs at 70 yards
and
> she dropped on the spot.  I highly recommend this in-line for the
> hunter who is just starting out in the muzzleloader sport.  I'm
hooked.
>
>
> Sherm Kohler
> Pennsylvania
>

Cabela's has a decent setup in a .50 cal for a little over a hundred
bucks.  It's not a bad place to start.  www.cabelas.com
J

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "crashs1990" <crashs1990@...>
wrote:
>
> I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start
out
> with for deer.
>
This was my first year for muzzleloader hunting and I chose the NEF
Sidekick.  Cabela's offers this gun in a package deal with a Pine Ridge
scope.  Very accurate and easy to use with the break-open breech.  I
shot Thompson Shockwave Sabots out of it and used 777 pellets.  90
grains seemed to be a very comfortable, accurate, and dependable load.
I shot my first deer in October...heart and both lungs at 70 yards and
she dropped on the spot.  I highly recommend this in-line for the
hunter who is just starting out in the muzzleloader sport.  I'm hooked.


Sherm Kohler
Pennsylvania

New England Firearms Huntsman .50 caliber.  reasonably priced under $300.  i
also reccomend using triple 7 powder.

crashs1990 <crashs1990@...> wrote:                                  I am
interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start out
  with for deer.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Start out with a .50cal for deer, target, and general purpose shooting. I think
it's the best all around caliber for blackpowder shooting.  The type of rifle
depends on what you like. There are some great buys on inlines out there, and
the Thompson-Center Hawken is a great first choice for something more
traditional. There are some great buys on www.gunbroker.com as well.

   Greg Marts
   Restoration Firearms

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

****************************************************
I'd suggest an inexpensive percussion rifle to start
with, just in case you may decide that a front
stuffer won't be your primary hunting rifle.  A .50
caliber CVA Optima comes to mind---break-open action
ala shotgun makes it easy to cap and clean the
nipple.  Saw one the other day at WalMart for $155.00.
Good fiber optic sights with crude adjustments but
how often does one have to adjust the sights?
Accessory support is great.....

roger in NWMontana*********************************
>
>
> >From: "crashs1990" <crashs1990@...>
> >Reply-To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
> >To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [Muzzleloaders] new to muzzle loading
> >Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 00:52:28 -0000
> >
> >I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a
> good gun to start out
> >with for deer.
> >
>
>
>




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Start out with a good gun. A 50cal thompson center would be a good choice.
Cabelas sells fine guns too. Get a percussion type rather than flint if you
want it to fire every time.
       Ron


>From: "crashs1990" <crashs1990@...>
>Reply-To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Muzzleloaders] new to muzzle loading
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 00:52:28 -0000
>
>I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start out
>with for deer.
>

I am interested in muzzleloading.Any advise on a good gun to start out
with for deer.

> Does anyone know where I can get information on repairing
> this problem, other than TC.

Why not T-C?  They stand behind their guns, lifetime warranty
and everyone I've talked with who has dealt with them said
they were very easy to work with.  Even when the problem was
the fault of the gun owner, T-C fixed it free.  You might want
to at least talk to them about it.

-Kees-

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jim@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone here have any experience using the tap-o-cap system? It
sounds too good to be true.
>
> Jim in N.Az

Jim,

I don't have any personal experience with one, but there was a
discussion on the Tap-O-Cap on another board and some folks liked it
and others thought they weren't worth while. I believe they use cap
gun caps for the charge, and those aren't as hot as what is used on
commercial caps.  The tools themselves aren't too spendy, and if the
caps work for you it would be a cost savings indeed!

-Kees-

Thanks John. I have both .490 and .495 balls.  I'm going to shoot the
rilfe this weekend for the first time.  I'm using pre-lubed .015
patches.


--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, John Davis <jdatbcf@...> wrote:
>
> The barrel is drilled and reamed/polished to .500 then rifling is
cut into it.
>   The depth of rifling varies with the process. Button rifling is
common in mass produced guns. A hard carbide cutter is pulled through
the bore where it cuts and displaces metal leaving a very smooth
finish. This kind of rifling is fairly shallow. .004 to .008 or so.
Cut rifling is found on custom guns and will be deeper. .010 to .012.
>   A patch of at least 1- 1/2 times the depth of groove is
desirable. I take my micrometer to the fabric store with me and buy
100 % cotton by the yard.
>   Lets say that you have 008 grooves so .012 or .013 material will
fill the grooves when compressed.
>   How big should the ball be? According to Ned Roberts "The Muzzle-
loading Caplock Rifle"
>   "the ball size that is the largest ball that will fit into the
bore and can be seated with one smooth stroke of the ramrod is best"
>   Speaking from experience with 50 cals, i have had pretty good
luck with 495s in factory guns. 490s load easy but let too much blow-
by burn up the patches and accuracy suffers out beyond 75 yards.
>   Hope this helps, Good luck and good shooting John Davis Jax Fl
>
> Tom <tgs333@...> wrote:
>           Hi, I'm getting back into Muzzleloading after 20 years
(was a teenager
> back then).
> I purchased a Traditions 50cal Hawken's muzzleloader. My question
may
> seem dumb, but I have to ask....
> First, I haven't fired the rifle yet. I plan on using it mostly for
> target practice. I purchased 50cal (.490) roundballs and I notice
that
> when I put the ball up to the top of the barrel (without the
patch),
> the ball slides down the barrel to the bottom and rolls back out
when
> tipping the rifle. Is this normal? The reason I ask is because I
used
> to have a 45cal Kentucky rifle and I don't remember the ball
sliding
> down the barrel like that. I am going to use .015 pre-lube patches,
but
> looking at the patch and the ball it would seem I could put the
patch
> on top of the barrell then the ball and push it in with my thumb
(not
> having to use a ball starter). Also, maybe it's me, but I just
can't
> see the roundball with the patch fitting snuggly in the barrel.
AGain,
> maybe that is just me and afterall I haven't yet been able to load
the
> rifle.
> Anyways, I hope I'm making sense. I appreciate any advice or
knowledge.
> Thanks, Tom.
>
>
>
>
>
>  __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

The barrel is drilled and reamed/polished to .500 then rifling is cut into it.
   The depth of rifling varies with the process. Button rifling is common in mass
produced guns. A hard carbide cutter is pulled through the bore where it cuts
and displaces metal leaving a very smooth finish. This kind of rifling is fairly
shallow. .004 to .008 or so. Cut rifling is found on custom guns and will be
deeper. .010 to .012.
   A patch of at least 1- 1/2 times the depth of groove is desirable. I take my
micrometer to the fabric store with me and buy 100 % cotton by the yard.
   Lets say that you have 008 grooves so .012 or .013 material will fill the
grooves when compressed.
   How big should the ball be? According to Ned Roberts "The Muzzle-loading
Caplock Rifle"
   "the ball size that is the largest ball that will fit into the bore and can be
seated with one smooth stroke of the ramrod is best"
   Speaking from experience with 50 cals, i have had pretty good luck with 495s
in factory guns. 490s load easy but let too much blow-by burn up the patches and
accuracy suffers out beyond 75 yards.
   Hope this helps, Good luck and good shooting John Davis Jax Fl

Tom <tgs333@...> wrote:
           Hi, I'm getting back into Muzzleloading after 20 years (was a teenager
back then).
I purchased a Traditions 50cal Hawken's muzzleloader. My question may
seem dumb, but I have to ask....
First, I haven't fired the rifle yet. I plan on using it mostly for
target practice. I purchased 50cal (.490) roundballs and I notice that
when I put the ball up to the top of the barrel (without the patch),
the ball slides down the barrel to the bottom and rolls back out when
tipping the rifle. Is this normal? The reason I ask is because I used
to have a 45cal Kentucky rifle and I don't remember the ball sliding
down the barrel like that. I am going to use .015 pre-lube patches, but
looking at the patch and the ball it would seem I could put the patch
on top of the barrell then the ball and push it in with my thumb (not
having to use a ball starter). Also, maybe it's me, but I just can't
see the roundball with the patch fitting snuggly in the barrel. AGain,
maybe that is just me and afterall I haven't yet been able to load the
rifle.
Anyways, I hope I'm making sense. I appreciate any advice or knowledge.
Thanks, Tom.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Most hunters put a starter charge of 10 or 15 grains of black powder in first to
set the other stuff off.
   When i load mine i put my flash-hole pick, a piece of guitar string, all the
way in before dropping the powder, then remove the pick, wipe the frizen and the
edge of the flint with a clean dry rag.
   Put about half a pan full of 4f and close the frizen. I bump the side of the
lock with the palm of my hand so the powder settles away from the touch-hole. If
your lock is a good sparker, she will fire off real quick
   Good luck and good shooting, John Davis

shkiii35 <shkiii35@...> wrote:
           Merry Christmas to all!

I just purchased my first flintlock...Cabela's Hawkins Traditional .50
Flintlock. I will be using it for the first time in January while
participating in the Pennsylvania Flintlock Season. I also own a NEF
Sidekick in-line muzzleloader that I use 777 pellets in with great
accuracy and success. Can I use the 777 pellets in my flintlock, as
well as the sabot rounds?

Any guidance given will be greatly appreciated.

Sherm Kohler
Semper Fidelis





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Most likely, the act of unscrewing the breech plug cleaned up the threads enough
so that the plug fits a tiny fraction deeper than before. We are only talking
about the difference between 3 o'clock and 4 o'clock right?
   If you have the shoulder of the breech-plug firmly up against the barrel and
it will go no further, then that is likely it.
   In that case, i would put a bunch of anti-seize on the plug and put it back in
so that the touch-hole lines up properly. The anti-seize will keep water and
rust out of the threads.
        A little less likely, but possible is that you need to go another thread
deeper. On some models you can do that, but i dont think so on a Thompson. Is
the touch-hole centered over the pan or is it a little too far forward? Does it
look like you need to go around another time? Try it but don't force it too
hard.
   You have already had more luck than most folks with leaving a load of powder
in a gun for a long time. Some folks at Muzzle Blast did a one year test on some
barrel sections and most were ruined.
   Good luck and good shooting, John Davis

amznhdrdr <amznhdrdr@...> wrote:
           I've got a question for anyone here. I've been shooting
muzzleloaders since the 60's & never had any problems with the
muzzleloaders I had bought. I started using a TC Renegade flintlock
for PA. hunting season in the early 70's. I used the maxiballs for a
short time & put the gun away. I started using other muzzleloaders &
left the Renegade sit with a load in it for several years. One of my
friends put the fear in my ear by doing that for so long the powder
corrode's the metal. Well, I like a fool listened & I took the
breach plug out of the back to find the barrel, threads & plug were
just as clean & smooth as the first time I shot it. But the problem
was, I couldn't line up the touch hole perpendicular to the flashpan
afterwards. When I tightened the plug the touchhole was now at 4:00
instead of the 90 degree 3:00. If I backed the plug up to be lined
up 90 degree's the plug was loose. I've left the Renegade like this
for over 30 years. Now I've decided to get the rifle in working
order. Does anyone know where I can get information on repairing
this problem, other than TC. I thought about working the threads to
tighten the plug before the 90 degree mark. Before I did I wanted
some input from anyone else.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey thanks, I did match a pre-lubed patch to the ball and it will
take a starter to get it down the barrel.  Thanks for the reply

Also, thanks Gene!

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "marcusm14_14"
<marcusm14_14@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I tried mine and it would push in fairly pretty easy with a .495
> ball, but not fall down the barrell. Of course my barrell is dirty
> tonight till I clean it up tomarrow. I got a 190lb Doe one day
> before season ended here in Ind. The MAG-Spark device has never
> failed me yet.
> I  uploaded a pic to the files section of my kill.
>
> Merry Christmas ALL..
> Marcus
>
>
>
> --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tgs333@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, I'm getting back into Muzzleloading after 20 years (was a
> teenager
> > back then).
> > I purchased a Traditions 50cal Hawken's muzzleloader. My question
> may
> > seem dumb, but I have to ask....
> > First, I haven't fired the rifle yet. I plan on using it mostly
> for
> > target practice. I purchased 50cal (.490) roundballs and I notice
> that
> > when I put the ball up to the top of the barrel (without the
> patch),
> > the ball slides down the barrel to the bottom and rolls back out
> when
> > tipping the rifle. Is this normal? The reason I ask is because I
> used
> > to have a 45cal Kentucky rifle and I don't remember the ball
> sliding
> > down the barrel like that. I am going to use .015 pre-lube
> patches, but
> > looking at the patch and the ball it would seem I could put the
> patch
> > on top of the barrell then the ball and push it in with my thumb
> (not
> > having to use a ball starter). Also, maybe it's me, but I just
> can't
> > see the roundball with the patch fitting snuggly in the barrel.
> AGain,
> > maybe that is just me and afterall I haven't yet been able to
load
> the
> > rifle.
> > Anyways, I hope I'm making sense. I appreciate any advice or
> knowledge.
> > Thanks, Tom.
> >
>

Hmmmm .... I was thinking that maybe the breechplug is still way too
loose and needs almost another full time around. In that case it would
be dangerous. I have a TC Hawken but I don't have the time right now
to take a look at the breechplug. Id put some anti-sieze on the plug
and try to tighten it down ALL the way first. I just don't want to
steer you wrong that's all. Maybe someone else can help.

That is odd for sure. Is the the plug tight against the barrel flats?
I had an idea but I don't know if it safe or not. May even cause a
dangerous situation so don't take this seriously. Wrapping the male
threads with white teflon tape is what I did when I worked with
airtools. The part that fits into the airhoses would sometimes break
or get dented. I read that this was recommended for screw in nipples
on fast twist muzzleloaders. Track of the wolf would probably have
replacement breechplugs. Thompson Center Renegades/Hawkens can
actually be made from scratch with replacement and upgrade parts and
the interchangeable barrels from different makers.

  --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "amznhdrdr" <amznhdrdr@...> wrote:
>
> I've got a question for anyone here.  I've been shooting
> muzzleloaders since the 60's & never had any problems with the
> muzzleloaders I had bought.  I started using a TC Renegade flintlock
> for PA. hunting season in the early 70's.  I used the maxiballs for a
> short time & put the gun away.  I started using other muzzleloaders &
> left the Renegade sit with a load in it for several years.  One of my
> friends put the fear in my ear by doing that for so long the powder
> corrode's the metal.  Well, I like a fool listened & I took the
> breach plug out of the back to find the barrel, threads & plug were
> just as clean & smooth as the first time I shot it.  But the problem
> was, I couldn't line up the touch hole perpendicular to the flashpan
> afterwards.  When I tightened the plug the touchhole was now at 4:00
> instead of the 90 degree 3:00.  If I backed the plug up to be lined
> up 90 degree's the plug was loose.  I've left the Renegade like this
> for over 30 years.  Now I've decided to get the rifle in working
> order.  Does anyone know where I can get information on repairing
> this problem, other than TC. I thought about working the threads to
> tighten the plug before the 90 degree mark.  Before I did I wanted
> some input from anyone else.
>

I think maybe I'd send it to Track of the Wolf, and let them  install a new
breech plug.  I think they have a couple that would  fit.  I must say it's an
interesting situation.  Never had that happen  before.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've got a question for anyone here.  I've been shooting
muzzleloaders since the 60's & never had any problems with the
muzzleloaders I had bought.  I started using a TC Renegade flintlock
for PA. hunting season in the early 70's.  I used the maxiballs for a
short time & put the gun away.  I started using other muzzleloaders &
left the Renegade sit with a load in it for several years.  One of my
friends put the fear in my ear by doing that for so long the powder
corrode's the metal.  Well, I like a fool listened & I took the
breach plug out of the back to find the barrel, threads & plug were
just as clean & smooth as the first time I shot it.  But the problem
was, I couldn't line up the touch hole perpendicular to the flashpan
afterwards.  When I tightened the plug the touchhole was now at 4:00
instead of the 90 degree 3:00.  If I backed the plug up to be lined
up 90 degree's the plug was loose.  I've left the Renegade like this
for over 30 years.  Now I've decided to get the rifle in working
order.  Does anyone know where I can get information on repairing
this problem, other than TC. I thought about working the threads to
tighten the plug before the 90 degree mark.  Before I did I wanted
some input from anyone else.

Hi,
I tried mine and it would push in fairly pretty easy with a .495
ball, but not fall down the barrell. Of course my barrell is dirty
tonight till I clean it up tomarrow. I got a 190lb Doe one day
before season ended here in Ind. The MAG-Spark device has never
failed me yet.
I  uploaded a pic to the files section of my kill.

Merry Christmas ALL..
Marcus



--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tgs333@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, I'm getting back into Muzzleloading after 20 years (was a
teenager
> back then).
> I purchased a Traditions 50cal Hawken's muzzleloader. My question
may
> seem dumb, but I have to ask....
> First, I haven't fired the rifle yet. I plan on using it mostly
for
> target practice. I purchased 50cal (.490) roundballs and I notice
that
> when I put the ball up to the top of the barrel (without the
patch),
> the ball slides down the barrel to the bottom and rolls back out
when
> tipping the rifle. Is this normal? The reason I ask is because I
used
> to have a 45cal Kentucky rifle and I don't remember the ball
sliding
> down the barrel like that. I am going to use .015 pre-lube
patches, but
> looking at the patch and the ball it would seem I could put the
patch
> on top of the barrell then the ball and push it in with my thumb
(not
> having to use a ball starter). Also, maybe it's me, but I just
can't
> see the roundball with the patch fitting snuggly in the barrel.
AGain,
> maybe that is just me and afterall I haven't yet been able to load
the
> rifle.
> Anyways, I hope I'm making sense. I appreciate any advice or
knowledge.
> Thanks, Tom.
>

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, Tom Costello <tcostell@...> wrote:
>
> Finally. Next to the last day outside Albany NY.
>
> Tom Costello (in Orange)
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
They took away the photo, sorry.

Tom

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "r_d_meyer" <longblock4114@...>
wrote:
>
> hi all,
>
> I am looking at building a muzzleloader from a kit with my son.
>
> Any recommendations on a good kit with not too much work work
> invovled?

Here's a suggestion. Look at http://www.flintlocks.com ( Jim Chambers
Flintlocks). He makes the best locks and the kits are high quality. I
think it tells about the work involved in the site somewhere.  What
caught my eye was the Christian Springs- Edward Marshall rifle. The
stock doe's not have such a drastic drop as similar kits from other
places. This and the design of the stock makes the kit ideal in .58
caliber (as the original) with a very slow twist rate in the barrel.
Rice barrels are highly thought of and they will make a custom twist
rate barrel for a bit more. I would suggest 1 in 116 or so twist rate
if that is possible. Such a rifle would kick hard but the Germanic
stock on this particular rifle kit would reduce recoil alot. It would
make a very nice hunting rifle.... believe me.

I picked up a box of these today to use for target practice in my
Hawkins Traditon .50 cal muzzleloader.  Has anyone have any experience
to share about these roundballs?
Thanks.

Hi, I'm getting back into Muzzleloading after 20 years (was a teenager
back then).
I purchased a Traditions 50cal Hawken's muzzleloader. My question may
seem dumb, but I have to ask....
First, I haven't fired the rifle yet. I plan on using it mostly for
target practice. I purchased 50cal (.490) roundballs and I notice that
when I put the ball up to the top of the barrel (without the patch),
the ball slides down the barrel to the bottom and rolls back out when
tipping the rifle. Is this normal? The reason I ask is because I used
to have a 45cal Kentucky rifle and I don't remember the ball sliding
down the barrel like that. I am going to use .015 pre-lube patches, but
looking at the patch and the ball it would seem I could put the patch
on top of the barrell then the ball and push it in with my thumb (not
having to use a ball starter). Also, maybe it's me, but I just can't
see the roundball with the patch fitting snuggly in the barrel. AGain,
maybe that is just me and afterall I haven't yet been able to load the
rifle.
Anyways, I hope I'm making sense. I appreciate any advice or knowledge.
Thanks, Tom.

Does anyone here have any experience using the tap-o-cap system? It sounds too
good to be true.

Jim in N.Az
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=\
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The real work of men was hunting meat. The invention of agriculture was a giant
step in the wrong direction, leading to serfdom, cities, and empire. From a race
of hunters, artists, warriors, and tamers of horses, we degraded ourselves to
what we are now: clerks, functionaries, laborers, entertainers, processors of
information.- Ed Abbey
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Merry Christmas to all!

I just purchased my first flintlock...Cabela's Hawkins Traditional .50
Flintlock.  I will be using it for the first time in January while
participating in the Pennsylvania Flintlock Season.  I also own a NEF
Sidekick in-line muzzleloader that I use 777 pellets in with great
accuracy and success.  Can I use the 777 pellets in my flintlock, as
well as the sabot rounds?

Any guidance given will be greatly appreciated.

Sherm Kohler
Semper Fidelis

Merry Christmas to all of you!  Hope it is a good time with family and
friends for everyone.

-Kees-