I have an 1805 Harpers Ferry pistol (reproduction) that I'll trade for
a 1777 Charleville pistol (reproduction).  I bought the pistol years
ago and never fired it.  It's just laying around now, gathering dust.

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "DavidP005" <dave@...> wrote:
Yes I still have it.

Terry Uselton






> Do you still have this black powder shotgun?  I've been looking for
> one for aditional challenge durring duck & turky hunting season.
I'm
> currently using a .50 caliber flintlock rifle for deer hear in RI.
> It's got a 1 in 66 twist, great for patched balls but with a short
> barrel it's great for heavy woods in my area but not the more
areas.
> I traded a TC Hawkens for it.
>
> At one time I had a TC white mountain carbine but it was stollen
> along with the locked case.  I do miss THAT gun.  Any idea where I
> might find a matchlock rifle?
>
> Dave
>
> --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "Terry Uselton" <notlesu@>
> wrote:
> >
> > This is the same shotgun I had listed for sale. I would trade it
> for a
> > caplock or flintlock .50 cal. pistol in good working condition.
> Let me
> > know what you have.
> >
> > Terry Uselton
> >
>

Do you still have this black powder shotgun?  I've been looking for
one for aditional challenge durring duck & turky hunting season.  I'm
currently using a .50 caliber flintlock rifle for deer hear in RI.
It's got a 1 in 66 twist, great for patched balls but with a short
barrel it's great for heavy woods in my area but not the more areas.
I traded a TC Hawkens for it.

At one time I had a TC white mountain carbine but it was stollen
along with the locked case.  I do miss THAT gun.  Any idea where I
might find a matchlock rifle?

Dave

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "Terry Uselton" <notlesu@...>
wrote:
>
> This is the same shotgun I had listed for sale. I would trade it
for a
> caplock or flintlock .50 cal. pistol in good working condition.
Let me
> know what you have.
>
> Terry Uselton
>

New member here from San Antonio, TX. Still pretty much a novice to
muzzleloading. Own a TC Black Diamond, TC Omega and just purchased one
of Greg Marts' reworked TC Hawkens.

I muzzleload, bow hunt and do a lot of centerfire hunting as well. Deer
and predator mostly with an annual black bear hunt thrown in for good
measure.

Looking forward to being a member of the board.

This is the same shotgun I had listed for sale. I would trade it for a
caplock or flintlock .50 cal. pistol in good working condition.  Let me
know what you have.

Terry Uselton

i called knight and they sent me a copy by mail

Scott <hagerdeath@...> wrote:          I am in the same spot, I just got
this gun but dont have an owners
manual and the website is having problems with me contacting them, I
will probably call them in the next few days and see what I can find out






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a CVA Firebolt using Triple7 and Powerbelts and having problems with
accuracy and misfires. I have bought some Hornadys Sabots have not tried yet,
(BOW HUNTING)I think the Powerbelts go in to easy and do not seal charge good
enough but not sure . Called the Hodgens powder co they said could be bullet
called CVA they say powder. Who knows. I am very consistent and accurate in my
loading process as to not have misfires . Good luck Oh I live in Rochester also.
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Rob
   To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 3:37 PM
   Subject: [Muzzleloaders] a hello from NY state


   Hi group -

   Just signed on and thought I'd introduce myself.

   I live in Rochester NY, that's upstate between Buffalo and
   Syracuse. Have fished and hunted all my life but only this past
   week did I buy a muzzleloader.

   I picked up a CVA .50 cal Kodiak Magnum, the pivot-break model. I'd
   like to hear some tips from others who have had experience with this
   model. I also bought 30 and 50 gr. Pyrodex pellets, 777 primers,
   and 295 HP Power Belt bullets. I'll probably mount a variable power
   scope and sight it in at 100 yards. Checking the company's
   ballistics report, there seems to be consistency in loading 150
   grains for the 100+ yard shot. I'd appreciate any feedback you can
   give me.

   Also, it would be nice to meet a group of black powder shooters from
   this area. Anyone else from mid to western NY? Give me a yell.

   Rob





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi group -

Just signed on and thought I'd introduce myself.

I live in Rochester NY, that's upstate between Buffalo and
Syracuse.  Have fished and hunted all my life but only this past
week did I buy a muzzleloader.

I picked up a CVA .50 cal Kodiak Magnum, the pivot-break model.  I'd
like to hear some tips from others who have had experience with this
model.  I also bought 30 and 50 gr. Pyrodex pellets, 777 primers,
and 295 HP Power Belt bullets.  I'll probably mount a variable power
scope and sight it in at 100 yards.  Checking the company's
ballistics report, there seems to be consistency in loading 150
grains for the 100+ yard shot.  I'd appreciate any feedback you can
give me.

Also, it would be nice to meet a group of black powder shooters from
this area.  Anyone else from mid to western NY?  Give me a yell.

Rob

I am in the same spot, I just got this gun but dont have an owners
manual and the website is having problems with me contacting them, I
will probably call them in the next few days and see what I can find out

This is a really sweet Rifle,   Bought it last week at Bass Pro shop I
havent had time to test it out yet but this weekend is looking good:-
)  even picked up a laser boresighter marked down from $49 to $21

[URL=http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1yw2.jpg][IMG]
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7210/1yw2.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

>  Any thoughts about whether I could fire it without detracting from
> the value? Thank you all for your opinions.

I would go ahead and shoot it.  If you haven't shot black powder
before, I suggest you take it to a gunsmith to check out first.  At
the very least make sure that there isn't a load in it from w-a-y back.

-Kees-

It's "value" is determined by what someone is willing to pay for it.
Since you have no intention of selling it,  the value is only relative
to you. Shoot it, enjoy it, take care of it ...

Drifter

I have a Smith carbine that has been in the family since the Civil
War.  It is in extremely good condition and possibly may never have
been fired. I would like to fire this weapon but one collector advised
me that it may reduce the value.  I spoke with another "expert" that
claimed he has competed with his own original Smith many times and
that it is in as good condition as it was when he purchased it.  He
then asked what good is it if I don't use it or if I don't intend to
sell it.  I tend to be anal about caring for my equipment including
cleaning after use.  Another part of the equation is that no matter
what value, I would never sell the Smith due to its tie to our family.
  Any thoughts about whether I could fire it without detracting form
the value? Thank you all for your opinions.

That seems a tall order. I doubt you will be able to find a rifle
that shoots accurately with both conicals, balls, and saboted loads
without interchangable barrels. The Thompson Center Hawken or Renegade
is the only ones I can think of that have interchangable barrels even
available. As a matter of fact you can build an entire rifle with
replacement or upgrade parts. You can also find barrel makers that offer
custom twist/length/steel for their own version of these replacement
barrels. The Muzzleloading Emporium is one such place.
  If you were going after Elk with a roundball the caliber would have
to be at least .54 and that severely limits your choices considering
90% of all rifles that are designed to shoot sabots are in .45 or .50
caliber.
  Rifles in most cases ( excluding the Marklesberry mentioned ) or the
White Muzzleloading M98 and a handfull of others, have a twist rate of
1 in 28 inches. The ideal twist rate in my opinion for a .54 caliber
roundball barrel would be 1 in 104 inches in a barrel at least 35
inches long. My choice for conicals would be 1:32 or 1:34 twist rate.
Something in between more often than not is less accurate for either
conicals or roundball. The 1:48 twist that is so common is just a
tradeoff. Most .54 caliber roundball barrels are 1:56 to 1:72 twist
rate. It is not advisable to shoot conicals or sabots in a slow twist
barrel. It is dangerous. Can you see what I mean by a tall order?
  I think you will have to choose between conicals, roundballs, or
sabots. Roundballs might be the best choice considering the state
laws. I am thinking of building a .58 caliber roundball rifle with a
1:116 twist rate without Forsythe rifling by the way. From what I've
read in online forums the slower twist rate would allow heavy charges
to be shot more accurately. Sure it would kick hard and would require
a straight heavy stock design to reduce recoil but it would 1- buck
the wind better being a heavier ball. 2- The larger caliber would be
more forgiving to imperfections of the ball. 3- Retain more energy at
a longer distance being a heavier projectile. Roundballs shed velocity
fast BUT with a heavier charge in a very slow twist barrel things can
be made  more bearable. I would say such a rifle would be effective
out to 120 yards or so. Make a quick online search for Forsythe
rifling. There are rifles with very slow twist rates available from
Pacific Arms and October Country and Muzzleloading Emporium as I
mentioned before. Hope this saves you some time in your quest.

Thank God for forums and groups. I have learned alot from them.

How about posting pictures in the photo section here?  That way we can
all see them.

-Kees-

I bought it at our fall rendezvous, thinking my buddy wanted one.
should of made sure before purchasing it. Pictures are availible on
request. Asking $250.00.

Thanks, Terry Uselton

does anyone know where i can find a owners manual for a knight
lk-93 stainless steel.

I have emailed knight numerous times, but no response

We have a hunting  preserve...over  130 acres of WILD country full of Elk,
Buffalo, Fallow, white tail and Red  Stag! Different sizes and some are  huge! 
You will have to HUNT   several days to bag one! Check out
_www.trophyridgeranch.com_ (http://www.trophyridgeranch.com) and then  give us a
call: 1- 309 668 2488.  Central Illinois near  Peoria, Illinois!   We have a
gorgeous Log Cabin in the woods for your  lodging! We only hunt one group of
friends or one at a  time.  This is not a big profit company...hubby is retired
and loves to  entertain his hunters! This is for Bow and Arrow hunters, Muzzle 
Loaders and Cross Bows for mainly the handicapped.  VERY little  walking!
THANKS for the post!
ROSIE WELLS

Has anyone used the Kahnke guns? I just built him a web site.
from the reviews he builds a great gun. Check it out at
kahnkegunworks.com

I believe you may be looking at wads if they are about the size of the bore.
They are good for retaining small lead shot in cylinder like a small shotgun
load. I sometimes load 2 cyls like that in summer for walks in the woods,
works great for rattlesnakes. About a 12" pattern at 10' away.
                 Ron.   Modoc County, Ca.   (40 miles from Oregon & 40 miles
from Nevada)


>From: "Curtis Spivey" <curtis.spivey@...>
>Reply-To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Muzzleloaders] 1858 New Army Revolver (was Group introduction and
>question)
>Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 17:12:17 -0600
>
>Thanks for all the help on the use of patches in the 1858 revolver.  I
>won't worry about using one.  But, I did notice they sell little round
>precut patches.  They almost look like they are made out of felt.
>What is the benefit of using them?
>
>--
>Curtis
>Nampa, Idaho

Thanks for all the help on the use of patches in the 1858 revolver.  I
won't worry about using one.  But, I did notice they sell little round
precut patches.  They almost look like they are made out of felt.
What is the benefit of using them?

--
Curtis
Nampa, Idaho

Don't use patches with the revolver.  Actually, when you load the revolver with
the loading arm, you should get a fine sliver of lead around the cyliner hole
when the bullet is pressed into the cylinder hole.  Enjoy the revolver, just try
to keep it clean!

Curtis Spivey <curtis.spivey@...> wrote:          I have been shooting a
54 cal. Hawkens for several years now. I just
picked up a 1858 New Army revolver. My question is: One part of the
manual says to "use" patches. And another manual says to "never" use
patches with a pistol. Which is correct?
BTW, I own a couple dozen modern pistols and rifles. Some of my
favorites are my Contender in 221 fireball and in 357 Herrett. I also
really like my 44 mag Blackhawk. I'm also a die-hard Colt 45 auto
fan. I reload all these rounds.
Even though I love my modern firearms; There is just something
relaxing about the ol' "Smoke Poles". I mean, you are not out firing
hundreds of rounds in a hurried fashion. Black Power gives you time
to talk with your friends and family and enjoy the experiance.

Anyway, it's good to know this list is around. I'm sure my question
has an easy answer.

Curtis
Nampa, Idaho






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey guys thanks for the help.  I ended up pouring boiling water on the
pyro to loosen it up and poured wd40 down barrel then got a wooden
dowel and tapped it out through the breech.  It was quite difficult
but the bore is clear. I was a little hesitant to cap it and fire it
as i did not load it.

thank you

robert doyle

Hi Curtis- Welcome to the group! It's funny that you mention the 1858 Remington
revolver because I just bought a Uberti 1858 and it is beautiful. I used to have
one years ago, but it was so tedious and time consuming to measure each load
that I ended up trading it off. I recently read an article that said to use
Pyrodex pellets. I went down and bought some pyrodex P pellets and what a
difference in ease of loading! You just drop in one pellet, then ram a round
ball down on top of it. I just cap and shoot (#10 caps). I know that common
wisdom says to place grease over the ball to prevent crossover, but I also read
another article that says this is not really needed because the ball seals off
the powder (just like a regular cartridge revolver load).  The crossover
actually comes from loose fitting caps at the other end, lighting off the
neighboring cylinder. I know this will start some interesting conversation
regarding sealing of the charge & safety, but I have tried it and
  it seems to work just fine. I was wondering if anyone else out there has tried
this. I am having so much fun with this gun that I just bought another one in
stainless steel from Dixie gun Works on sale for $250.00, which is $100.00 offf
the regular price, and I would highly recommend this gun if anyone out there is
in the market for an 1858. It is a Pietta, which is not quite the quality of the
Uberti, but is a fine shooter nonetheless.

   Greg Marts
   Restoration Firearms


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--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, roger <rogermont@...> wrote:
>
> A well-marked range or standard cleaning rod would
> prevent that sort of problem.  Marked at 'powder-only'
> and 'powder-and-projectile' would show the user what
> particular condition the weapon is in.  Just takes
> a sec to check.....
>
> I would only pull the bullet/projectile as a last
> resort---when you hammer on the Powerbelt or whatever,
> you compress the powder/pellet leaving no alternatives
> but to get that bullet out.
>
> roger
>

i agree with roger here on pulling being the last resort in your case,
but if the powder wont discharge there are no alternatives but to pull
the bullet out,  if the powder is wont fire  at all, smashing it down
to to flaten out a tip wont matter in the  least too pull it,
id like to say the co,2 ball pushers  are handy and werth the buy at
an cost,  and they dont cost but 20 bucks or less and co2 is cheep now
days with paint ball guns and such.
but i have a point to say here,  i have a T/C scout inline, but it has
vent holes in the brech, so a co2 puller wont help out a bit here all
the gas goes out the side, so pulling is the only thing and matter of
fact here on   MY LINE  of shooting,  I will pull a ball first, dont
ask if a powder charge was forgot or not  pull the ball and forget
about it,  but this is on a range,   for me i have a brass tipped rod
I heat up to melt down those plastic tipped balls to pull  and i use
my 1861 REM 45 cal to keep the peace and the safty rules of the range,
ive put that to a foot or too and noones put me to a challenge and no
foot has a hole through them as of yet,   i keep a top notch family
range,
i I pull those rounds and re melt them,  thought id add that tid bit,,

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, roger <rogermont@...> wrote:
>
> A well-marked range or standard cleaning rod would
> prevent that sort of problem.  Marked at 'powder-only'
> and 'powder-and-projectile' would show the user what
> particular condition the weapon is in.  Just takes
> a sec to check.....
>
> I would only pull the bullet/projectile as a last
> resort---when you hammer on the Powerbelt or whatever,
> you compress the powder/pellet leaving no alternatives
> but to get that bullet out.
>
> roger
>

i agree with roger here on pulling being the last resort in your case,
but if the powder wont discharge there are no alternatives but to pull
the bullet out,  if the powder is wont fire  at all, smashing it down
to to flaten out a tip wont matter in the  least too pull it,
id like to say the co,2 ball pushers  are handy and werth the buy at
an cost,  and they dont cost but 20 bucks or less and co2 is cheep now
days with paint ball guns and such.
but i have a point to say here,  i have a T/C scout inline, but it has
vent holes in the brech, so a co2 puller wont help out a bit here all
the gas goes out the side, so pulling is the only thing and matter of
fact here on   MY LINE  of shooting,  I will pull a ball first, dont
ask if a powder charge was forgot or not  pull the ball and forget
about it,  but this is on a range,   for me i have a brass tipped rod
I heat up to melt down those plastic tipped balls to pull  and i use
my 1861 REM 45 cal to keep the peace and the safty rules of the range,
ive put that to a foot or too and noones put me to a challenge and no
foot has a hole through them as of yet,   i keep a top notch family
range,
i I pull those rounds and re melt them,  thought id add that tid bit,,

Never use patch with that revolver. Use .451 round ball. Use crisco or wax
or some other material over top of ball to prevent "cross firing" (a spark
from fired cylinder entering adjacent cyl and igniting that load) I use a
waxed felt wad that I make.


>From: "Curtis Spivey" <curtis.spivey@...>
>Reply-To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Muzzleloaders] Group introduction and question
>Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 14:35:33 -0000
>
>I have been shooting a 54 cal. Hawkens for several years now.  I just
>picked up a 1858 New Army revolver.  My question is: One part of the
>manual says to "use" patches.  And another manual says to "never" use
>patches with a pistol.  Which is correct?
>      BTW, I own a couple dozen modern pistols and rifles.  Some of my
>favorites are my Contender in 221 fireball and in 357 Herrett.  I also
>really like my 44 mag Blackhawk.  I'm also a die-hard Colt 45 auto
>fan. I reload all these rounds.
>      Even though I love my modern firearms;  There is just something
>relaxing about the ol' "Smoke Poles".  I mean, you are not out firing
>hundreds of rounds in a hurried fashion.  Black Power gives you time
>to talk with your friends and family and enjoy the experiance.
>
>Anyway, it's good to know this list is around.  I'm sure my question
>has an easy answer.
>
>Curtis
>Nampa, Idaho
>
>
>
>
>
>

I have been shooting a 54 cal. Hawkens for several years now.  I just
picked up a 1858 New Army revolver.  My question is: One part of the
manual says to "use" patches.  And another manual says to "never" use
patches with a pistol.  Which is correct?
      BTW, I own a couple dozen modern pistols and rifles.  Some of my
favorites are my Contender in 221 fireball and in 357 Herrett.  I also
really like my 44 mag Blackhawk.  I'm also a die-hard Colt 45 auto
fan. I reload all these rounds.
      Even though I love my modern firearms;  There is just something
relaxing about the ol' "Smoke Poles".  I mean, you are not out firing
hundreds of rounds in a hurried fashion.  Black Power gives you time
to talk with your friends and family and enjoy the experiance.

Anyway, it's good to know this list is around.  I'm sure my question
has an easy answer.

Curtis
Nampa, Idaho

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "rcd21797" <rcd21797@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>          A freind gave me a cva inline to "fix" He has left a charge
> (2x 50g pyrodex pellets) and one 295g powerbelt projectile in the
> barrel for 9 months.
iwould suggestgoing to either your local sportings good store or
cabela's and order the c02 load discharger. they come with various
adapters. they work by forcing out the projectile with a charge of
co2. point it in a safe direction. it comes out with enough force to
pierce a metal bucket. this beats the tug a war with a bullet puller
on a ram rod, or forcing it out with a grease gun. besides, sooner or
later you will dry ball and need it again.

A well-marked range or standard cleaning rod would
prevent that sort of problem.  Marked at 'powder-only'
and 'powder-and-projectile' would show the user what
particular condition the weapon is in.  Just takes
a sec to check.....

I would only pull the bullet/projectile as a last
resort---when you hammer on the Powerbelt or whatever,
you compress the powder/pellet leaving no alternatives
but to get that bullet out.

roger