I need lead, about 50lbs. for now would be nice, but only soft pure
lead not any wheel weight lead...any help would be welcomed

Brother Lou

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, Dane Evans <quills1985@...>
wrote:
>Thanks for the info.  That is my next step. Have been using the rod
it comes with but think i will get a range rod to enable me to get
down to where the projectile sits.  Might try some pyrodex pellets
if that doesent work.
thanks again
rcd



> I had the same type of problem with my cva. I had to
> move back to 25 yards and clean between each shot.
> Once I got it grouping there I was able to move out
> and it's been fine since. Hope this helps.
>
> --- robert doyle <rcd21797@...> wrote:
>
> > Hey Dane,
> >          Am using 100g of 777.  Have read that it
> > builds up around the projectile.
> >
> > robert doyle
> >
> > --- Dane Evans <quills1985@...> wrote:
> >
> > > How much powder are you using?
> > > --- rcd21797 <rcd21797@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hello everyone,
> > > >                   Am a new member.  Can anyone
> > > tell
> > > > me the best
> > > > combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.
> >
> > > I
> > > > have a decent set
> > > > of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to
> > dusk
> > > > scope.  I am using
> > > > 225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to
> > > > have problem with
> > > > consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in
> > a
> > > > 6" circle but no
> > > > real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am
> > > > using a rest.  I know
> > > > this rifle is capable of much more.  Would
> > > > appreciate any feed back.
> > > >
> > > > thank you
> > > >
> > > > robert doyle
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > > protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

I had the same type of problem with my cva. I had to
move back to 25 yards and clean between each shot.
Once I got it grouping there I was able to move out
and it's been fine since. Hope this helps.

--- robert doyle <rcd21797@...> wrote:

> Hey Dane,
>          Am using 100g of 777.  Have read that it
> builds up around the projectile.
>
> robert doyle
>
> --- Dane Evans <quills1985@...> wrote:
>
> > How much powder are you using?
> > --- rcd21797 <rcd21797@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Hello everyone,
> > >                   Am a new member.  Can anyone
> > tell
> > > me the best
> > > combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.
>
> > I
> > > have a decent set
> > > of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to
> dusk
> > > scope.  I am using
> > > 225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to
> > > have problem with
> > > consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in
> a
> > > 6" circle but no
> > > real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am
> > > using a rest.  I know
> > > this rifle is capable of much more.  Would
> > > appreciate any feed back.
> > >
> > > thank you
> > >
> > > robert doyle
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hey Dane,
          Am using 100g of 777.  Have read that it
builds up around the projectile.

robert doyle

--- Dane Evans <quills1985@...> wrote:

> How much powder are you using?
> --- rcd21797 <rcd21797@...> wrote:
>
> > Hello everyone,
> >                   Am a new member.  Can anyone
> tell
> > me the best
> > combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.
> I
> > have a decent set
> > of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to dusk
> > scope.  I am using
> > 225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to
> > have problem with
> > consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in a
> > 6" circle but no
> > real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am
> > using a rest.  I know
> > this rifle is capable of much more.  Would
> > appreciate any feed back.
> >
> > thank you
> >
> > robert doyle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, Dane Evans <quills1985@...>
wrote:
>am using 100g 777 pellets
rcd
> How much powder are you using?
> --- rcd21797 <rcd21797@...> wrote:
>
> > Hello everyone,
> >                   Am a new member.  Can anyone tell
> > me the best
> > combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.  I
> > have a decent set
> > of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to dusk
> > scope.  I am using
> > 225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to
> > have problem with
> > consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in a
> > 6" circle but no
> > real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am
> > using a rest.  I know
> > this rifle is capable of much more.  Would
> > appreciate any feed back.
> >
> > thank you
> >
> > robert doyle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

How much powder are you using?
--- rcd21797 <rcd21797@...> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>                   Am a new member.  Can anyone tell
> me the best
> combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.  I
> have a decent set
> of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to dusk
> scope.  I am using
> 225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to
> have problem with
> consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in a
> 6" circle but no
> real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am
> using a rest.  I know
> this rifle is capable of much more.  Would
> appreciate any feed back.
>
> thank you
>
> robert doyle
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hello everyone,
                   Am a new member.  Can anyone tell me the best
combination for accuracy for a c.v.a Optima pro.  I have a decent set
of rings on it with a Bushnell Banner dawn to dusk scope.  I am using
225g hollow points made by powerbelt.  I seem to have problem with
consistency at 50 yrds.  All the pellets land in a 6" circle but no
real consistency.   The rings are tight and i am using a rest.  I know
this rifle is capable of much more.  Would appreciate any feed back.

thank you

robert doyle

Welcome to the group!
I fired my .50 cal flintlock in Utah a week ago.  The first shot went perfect
(better than perfect) and then I loaded it and it misfired.  When I got around
to pulling the ball and patch out, I discovered I'd gotten "buck fever" and
forgot to put powder behind the ball.  I built my first .50 cal caplock in 1990,
so I'd been doing this awhile.
How does one get absolved of this sin???
Glad to have you aboard.  Don't forget to put powder behind the bullet is my
mantra for today.
J Hall

hi,

i am new to this group,  i am 39 yo, live in western indiana, self
employed.  i love all types of firearms, but mostly into mossberg and
lever action 22 cal .  using shotguns on clay pigeons.   hunting small
game, etc.   i also like muzzleloaders,  currently only have a "no
name" 50 cal percussion sidelock muzzleloader.    i am purchasing a
mini muzzleloader revolver( north american arms 22)  i am wanting to
get a 32 or 36 cal longarm for squirrel and bunnies.   also really want
a ruger old army.   thanks for allowing me to join.


may also in interested in get togethers with others for shoots,
rendevous etc.

thanks

My Brother in-law has a Black Powder shop, and asked me to get him on
the Web. This is the first attempt, check it out and let me know what
you think. All info appreciated!
  http://home.earthlink.net/~powderandballtraders/

Greetings All,

I love the smell of blackpowder wafting through the air...

Hey, do any of you all know of an inexpensive source for some
smoothbores or trade guns, used or otherwise. My wife and I would like
to have an advantage at the stake shoots. You know what I'm talking
about: the skillful abuse of large lead balls against a defenseless
piece of lumber until such time as it yields to the volley of heavy
metal projectiles...

Anyhoo... if you know any suppliers, traders, friends, etc. who are
willing to part their smoothbores or parts thereof, please contact me
here or at rbgeologist@....

Watch yer topknot!!!

Bowseeker

Joel:

We'll all hope for pleasant weather this weekend, on your behalf.

Ken


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Joel" <scstarsfan@...>


Hi Ken!

Thanks for the welcome...I just heard from Dixie Gunworks on
Thursday...the rifle is in the mail and en route!

Hi Ken!

Thanks for the welcome...I just heard from Dixie Gunworks on
Thursday...the rifle is in the mail and en route!

Traditions Crocket .32. Great rifle,(caplock), great price. Had mine for
over a year and love it. Happy birthday!

Steve in Maine

Tom, the best value in a .32 seems to be the Traditions Crockett
rifle.  I have heard lots of good things about it.

http://www.tjgeneralstore.com/traditio.htm

http://www.thunder-ridge-muzzleloading.com/traditions.htm

http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/productDisplay~TRADITI
ONS~CROCKETT+RIFLE~productID~290812.htm

Google "Traditions Crockett Rifle" for more.

-Kees-

> I'm looking for a .32 cal. muzzleloader
> that is reasonably priced if possible, for
> my birthday on Monday, the 15th.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Tom S.
>

I'm looking for a .32 cal. muzzleloader
that is reasonably priced if possible, for
my birthday on Monday, the 15th.

Thanks in advance!

Tom S.

> Ah, thanks. I bought a jar of patches lubricated with
> "Bore Butter," which claims to "season" the bore.

Somewhere I have a copy of an article I found years ago.  The author
used bore butter to season the bore.  The article spoke about
thoroughly cleaning the barrel, then running 3M "green scrubbies"
down and up it a hundred or more times (this was on a brand new
rifle) on a tight jag to smooth out the machinemarks.  He then
thoroughly cleaned it again, dried it and lubricated it with Bore
Butter.  His claim was that after that clean up was a simple matter
of using water with a tight patch, and relubricating with the Bore
Butter.  A further claim was that he could shoot the rifle and leave
it sit without cleaning for a week or more without harming it.  I
don't know if I would go that far, but it is supposed to be good
stuff.

I don't remember who the author of the piece was.  I was almost sure
it was Mike Nesbitt, but he said told me I was mistaken.  He thought
it could have been Sam Fadala.  We are in moving mode and all is
packed or I would try to find it for the files.


-Kees-

Ah, thanks. I bought a jar of patches lubricated with
"Bore Butter," which claims to "season" the bore.
Would you recommend running two or three patches
through the bore with a jag after, ah, laundering the
bore with soap and water? Would that season the bore
properly?

Henry

--- kees99919 <kees99919@...> wrote:

> --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, Henry Kisor
> <hkisor@...> wrote:
> >
> > What kind of soap do you use?
>
> Dish detergent.  I know folks who swear by plain
> water, though.  There
> is a school of thought that using natural lubes
> (olive oil, beeswax
> etc.) seasons the barrel just like seasoning a cast
> iron skillet, and
> soap or detergent removes that coating.  Just make
> sure the bore gets
> dry or you will get rust.
>
> -Kees-
>
>
>
>

The two really essential elements in a black powder gun cleaning operation
are water and fouling :0)
A little dish detergent hurts nothing, but is not essential because
blackpowder fouling is water soluble.

Having said that, I do have an occasional use for Hoppe's #9 Plus.  I often
clean the rifle in the kitchen, and the womenfolk pretend to dislike the
aroma of blackpowder fouling.  To keep the admiration noises within
tolerance I may use it because it seems to neutralize the odor.  But it's
not a necessity.

If you're using a propellant other than BP I don't know the correct answer
to your question.

Ken



----Original Message Follows----
From: Henry Kisor <hkisor@...>
Reply-To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
To: Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Muzzleloaders] Hello all im new to the group
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 02:47:48 -0700 (PDT)

What liquid do you use to clean your barrels with? I have heard that soap
and water is good, when followed by a bore preservative. But what kind of
soap?

--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, Henry Kisor <hkisor@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of soap do you use?

Dish detergent.  I know folks who swear by plain water, though.  There
is a school of thought that using natural lubes (olive oil, beeswax
etc.) seasons the barrel just like seasoning a cast iron skillet, and
soap or detergent removes that coating.  Just make sure the bore gets
dry or you will get rust.

-Kees-

Thanks everyone for getting back to me so quickly! I will post some
pictures of me Hawken a soon as its done the Tru-oil is still "drying"
on the stock.

What kind of soap do you use?

--- kees99919 <kees99919@...> wrote:

> You should not have to remove the breechplug to
> clean the rifle.  I
> respectfully disagree with Ken on removing it
> annually.  Most
> shooters I know of say to leave it unless there is a
> problem you
> can't get to any other way.  When you assemble the
> breech plug to the
> barrel, be sure to use some anti-sieze.
>
> My cleaning method for the Lyman GPR is basically
> the same as Ken.
> Stick the breech end in a bucket of hot soapy water.
>  Run a damp
> patch down on the cleaning jag, and run it up and
> down.  It will act
> like a pump and draw water up through the nipple or
> touch hole, then
> force it back out.  Follow with a bore brush, then
> pump a patch up
> and down again in the soapy water.  Follow this with
> a bucket of
> clean water to rinse, or pour hot water down the
> bore to flush it
> out.  Run some patches down to dry it out, then I
> use a patch
> liberally moistened with olive oil to lube it.
>
> One other thing, if the breech plug has a powder
> chamber in it, it
> will be smaller than the diameter of the bore.  In
> order to clean it
> you may need to use a smaller brush to get down into
> it.  My GPR
> needs a .357 brush on a rifle cleaning rod to get to
> the bottom of
> things.
>
> Have fun with the rifle.  Let us know how it turns
> out!  Post some
> pictures in the Photos section.
>
> -Kees-
>
>
>
>

What liquid do you use to clean your barrels with? I
have heard that soap and water is good, when followed
by a bore preservative. But what kind of soap?

--- Ken Nellis <knellis@...> wrote:

> Aaron:
>
> My practice is to remove the breech plug from my
> long rifle for "deep
> cleaning" once a year; in the winter, when it's too
> cold to actually shoot.
> It's not necessary to clean it that thoroughly more
> often than that.
>
> If yours has a hook breech (traditional Hawkens do)
> you can remove the
> barrel from the stock and put the breech end in a
> pail of water as you work
> a cleaning patch up and down in the bore.  This
> removes a lot of crud in a
> real hurry.  I used to do that with a ML shotgun,
> and thought it worked
> quite well.  When it seems much improved I'd put
> down a couple to dry the
> bore and follow with an oiled patch to prevent rust.
>
> The long rifle I clean with dripping wet patches run
> down from the muzzle on
> a cleaning jag.  This takes better than a dozen
> patches (from retired
> flannel sheets) before they come out as clean as
> they went in.  Then an
> oiled patch to prevent rust.  Similar treatment for
> the lock/breech area.
>
> Whichever method you choose, it's important to clean
> promply because BP
> fouling is corrosive, and you can't get away with
> letting it sit for a week
> as with a modern rifle using smokeless powder.  I
> like to get it done the
> same day.
>
> All the best,
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
>
>
>   I have a question about breach plugs I have a
> dixie gun works Hawken
> 54.  kit. I havent quite finished yet but my
> question is a bout
> cleaning do i need to remove it to clean the rifle
> and if not when if
> ever do I need to take it out?
>
>
>

You should not have to remove the breechplug to clean the rifle.  I
respectfully disagree with Ken on removing it annually.  Most
shooters I know of say to leave it unless there is a problem you
can't get to any other way.  When you assemble the breech plug to the
barrel, be sure to use some anti-sieze.

My cleaning method for the Lyman GPR is basically the same as Ken.
Stick the breech end in a bucket of hot soapy water.  Run a damp
patch down on the cleaning jag, and run it up and down.  It will act
like a pump and draw water up through the nipple or touch hole, then
force it back out.  Follow with a bore brush, then pump a patch up
and down again in the soapy water.  Follow this with a bucket of
clean water to rinse, or pour hot water down the bore to flush it
out.  Run some patches down to dry it out, then I use a patch
liberally moistened with olive oil to lube it.

One other thing, if the breech plug has a powder chamber in it, it
will be smaller than the diameter of the bore.  In order to clean it
you may need to use a smaller brush to get down into it.  My GPR
needs a .357 brush on a rifle cleaning rod to get to the bottom of
things.

Have fun with the rifle.  Let us know how it turns out!  Post some
pictures in the Photos section.

-Kees-

Aaron:

My practice is to remove the breech plug from my long rifle for "deep
cleaning" once a year; in the winter, when it's too cold to actually shoot.
It's not necessary to clean it that thoroughly more often than that.

If yours has a hook breech (traditional Hawkens do) you can remove the
barrel from the stock and put the breech end in a pail of water as you work
a cleaning patch up and down in the bore.  This removes a lot of crud in a
real hurry.  I used to do that with a ML shotgun, and thought it worked
quite well.  When it seems much improved I'd put down a couple to dry the
bore and follow with an oiled patch to prevent rust.

The long rifle I clean with dripping wet patches run down from the muzzle on
a cleaning jag.  This takes better than a dozen patches (from retired
flannel sheets) before they come out as clean as they went in.  Then an
oiled patch to prevent rust.  Similar treatment for the lock/breech area.

Whichever method you choose, it's important to clean promply because BP
fouling is corrosive, and you can't get away with letting it sit for a week
as with a modern rifle using smokeless powder.  I like to get it done the
same day.

All the best,

Ken



----Original Message Follows----


   I have a question about breach plugs I have a dixie gun works Hawken
54.  kit. I havent quite finished yet but my question is a bout
cleaning do i need to remove it to clean the rifle and if not when if
ever do I need to take it out?

I have a question about breach plugs I have a dixie gun works Hawken
54.  kit. I havent quite finished yet but my question is a bout
cleaning do i need to remove it to clean the rifle and if not when if
ever do I need to take it out?

De nada.

-Kees-

> Thanks for the reference.

Kees,

Thanks for the reference. Its a great article and I was pleased to
find out that I'm doing everything correctly (or at least in the
ballpark!).  The photos were very helpful.

Looking forward to making more smoke this weekend (the rain is
finally gone!!)





--- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "kees99919" <kees99919@...>
wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I got my monthly e-mail from the Possible Shop, and that had a
link to
> an article on percussion revolver shooting:
>
> http://www.shootmagazine.com/articles/firearms/percussionrevolv.pdf
>
> Thought you might be interrested.
>
> If you don't get their newsletter, go to the Possible Shop
website,
> http://www.possibleshop.com/ and sign up for it.  It is often very
> informative.
>
> -Kees-
>

Dan,

I got my monthly e-mail from the Possible Shop, and that had a link to
an article on percussion revolver shooting:

http://www.shootmagazine.com/articles/firearms/percussionrevolv.pdf

Thought you might be interrested.

If you don't get their newsletter, go to the Possible Shop website,
http://www.possibleshop.com/ and sign up for it.  It is often very
informative.

-Kees-

Thanks for the link John...I've never seen one. It would be nice to
see one with the breach open.
Interesting , what you said about gas leakage...Those guys must have
been tough. Seems like it would be hard to aim well if you knew you
were going to get a face full of hot soot.
I'm sure those were interesting days as firearms technology went
from muzzle loader to breach loader...with our own civil war as a
labratory.

take care
Mike


-- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "John W." <hazmat_tech@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry, fat fingers on a small keyboard.  The post should have read
Hall "flint" (as in
> flintlock).  The model is 1819, saw heavy use in the Mexican war,
and most were converted
> to percussion later.
>
> one reference is here:
>
http://www.historicamericana.com/past_sales_view_item.asp?itemid=22417
>
> another is here:
> http://www.19thcenturyweapons.com/gallerypages/hfhall603.html
>
> but some even better pictures can be found here:
> http://www.collectorsfirearms.com/al1727.htm
>
> The gun had a backward tilting breech mechanism (released by the
underleve in the
> pictures) so it could be loaded with a combustible paper cartridge
(or if necessary loose
> powder and ball) without a ramrod.  The biggest problem with this
action (and ALL non-
> metallic cartidge breechloaders of the day) was severe gas leakage
and the subsequent
> loss of muzzle energy over a traditional muzzleloading rifle of
the time.  To overcome
> this, the Hall required a heavier powder charge, something the
general officers and bean
> counters thought was a bad idea (wasteful!), never mind the whole
idea of not only massed
> fire (lined up shoulder to shoulder), but RAPID massed fire!
>
> I have read historical accounts of the soldiers on leave in town
carrying the action (the
> hinged portion of the breech system was easily removed for
cleaning, etc.) loaded and in
> their belt  or pouch as a pistol.
>
> The other issue with high pressure gas leakage during ignition
was, of course, blowback
> into the soldiers face.  This point was rendered moot with an
inline flintlock throwing a
> shower of smoke and flames into your face already!
>
> I have had the dis-pleasure of firing an original Hall flintlock
into a slight breeze and I can
> tell you the only part of my face that didn't get burning powder
embedded into it were my
> eyes (thanks to the forethought in wearing shooting glasses...).
Still, when one considers
> that I was shooting a musket that was almost 200 years old, it is
pretty plain to see that
> the gun was well built!
>
> John
>
> --- In Muzzleloaders@yahoogroups.com, "zbushz" <mbush@> wrote:
> >
> > I looked for the Hall floint on the web but didn't find it...Ya
> > wouldn't have a link would ya?
> > take care
> > Mike
> >
>