Frankly, i'm not impressed.

A Seven titamium stem costs $314.49 (now $495.00) and weighs 161 grams.  An
Eaton EA70 stem costs $19.00 on sale at Jensen and weighs 164 grams.  3 grams
difference.  That is almost $100/gram!

I will just leave my toothpaste behind (170 grams) and buy a new tube every
night ($2.99)  Canada to Mexico will take me 42 days and cost $125.58 for
toothpaste.  That works out to $0.74/gram.

I sold my 1000 earlier this year.

Now I'm parting with this: http://mybike.carbonmade.com/projects/2441585

A description and all specifications are below.

If anyone is interested please reply to ritcheysteel@... .

Thanks / Regards,

Dave

================================================================================

Delivered in December of 2003, this is a genuinely amazing touring
bike, custom built, and employing Seven’s exclusive Argen™ butted
titanium tubing.

I have the frame order from Seven, along with all of the receipts
(from Helen's Cycles) covering everything from the frame to the
spokes, the exception being the Salsa (1) and Alize (2) chainrings,
which I have added in at the low-low cost of $100 even (for the
complete set). I HAVE NOT, however, added in the cost of handbuilding
the wheels or assembling the complete bike (itemized on the receipt as
$60 and $100 respectively), so the number below reflects only the
physical items that comprise the bike.

In addition, it should be noted that 16 of the items below were
discounted by 10% or more by the shop due to the original owner's
much-valued patronage. In other words, this bike actually cost over
6K, and would have cost well over 6K if full price had been paid for
each and every component. Seven's prices have only increased in the
meantime (the 2007 Vacanza frame clocked in at $3195), and as far as I
know, they're not welding ti any better than they used to, so a
comparable bike purchased today would cost even more.

Original cost: $5428.13 x 8.25% CA tax = $5875.95

Here are the specs: Seven Vacanza frame $2594.99 Seven carbon seatpost
$118.99 seven titanium stem $314.49 Wound Up carbon tandem fork (for
strength... The bike is not a tandem.) $514.99 M-960 XTR front hub
$74.69 M-960 XTR rear hub $153.89 Velocity Deep-V rims (2) $125.98 72
butted spokes $57.60 Ultra Gatorskin tires (2) $52.78 tubes $7.98 Dura
Ace Cranks $242.99 Shimano 959 pedals $143.99 Ultegra bottom bracket
$35.99 Salsa (1) and Alize (2) chainrings (3 total) $100 Dura Ace
cassette $98.99 Dura Ace chain $26.99 Ultegra front derailleur $33.29
Dura Ace derailleur $76.49 Dura Ace Bar Con shifters (2) $125.98
Magura hydraulic rim brakes (front and rear sets) $455.98 Salsa Bell
Lap handlebars $43.00 Cinelli gel tape $15.99 Ciussi bottle cages (2)
$20.78 Stay Tuff chainstay protector $2.39

One of my cycling friends crossed the United States on a bike fitted with
mustache bars.  She did not like them.  Of course, it is personal preference. 
If you look at the fully loaded touring gallery, you will discover most of the
bikes use drop handlebars followed by mountain bike style handlebars and
trekking handlebars. Where this is by choice or because the bike was fitted with
drop handlebars when it was purchased, I do not know.

http://www.fullyloadedtouring.com/

Rod

--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, "qclabrat" <qclabrat_1@...> wrote:
>
> Anyone used or using these?
> In particular, wonder what brake levers were used and the advantages or
disadvantages to flat or drop bars.
>
> -Jersey Walt
>

Hmm, I have a 58cm that's too big, mine's a 1981 "J" spec, paints pretty good
with the exception that the rear dropouts have been replaced with Campy
horizontal dropouts which makes a wheelbase about 10mm longer.  Bike came this
way when I bought it 2 years ago and it rides great.  Though even with a shorter
stem and seat adjustments, the frame is still a tad big.  See my pictures in the
gallery under "Miyata Red"
-Jersey Walt

--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, "onedollarmiyata" <onedollarmiyata@...>
wrote:
>
> It is just to small, and needs to be repainted or elbow greased to get some
surface rust on the top tube cable holder off.
> I generaly feel ok on a 58 centimeter frame, and this is a 54 with a long post
and stem.
> Thing is, I have ridden this bike loaded on long days with no discomfort.  154
miles over two small mountain ranges in one day, with no shimmys, and still able
to ride it 100 miles the next day.  The cockpit area fits well.   It just looks
goofy.  The only upside is that it is easyer to ship than a larger frame.
> The original reason that I bothered with it was that when I found it, I rode
it a bit and realized what a great bike it was, low miles with just some garage
wear, and gave a guy a dollar for it.(had to take five bikes at a dollar each). 
Later I found this miyata group and saw that I was right.
>
> Anyway, I stripped it down this evening, wanting to treat the rust on the
cable holder and some general scratches here and there.  Got to thinking about a
total repaint, then started wondering if it would be worth it.  Guess that I am
thinking that as good as this bike feels and rides, a larger touring bike may be
better. But there is no way I can afford anything near the quality of this one. 
Ug.
>

Are they comfortable for long rides and has anyone used them for multi-day
tours?


--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, J Kilgore <jkguinness@...> wrote:
>
> Gottem and lovem.  I use shimano 600 nonaero levers with mine.  You have a
lot more postions to put your hands
>
> --- On Tue, 11/17/09, qclabrat <qclabrat_1@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: qclabrat <qclabrat_1@...>
> Subject: [MiyataSpecTour] moustache bars
> To: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009, 12:52 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> Anyone used or using these?
> In particular, wonder what brake levers were used and the advantages or
disadvantages to flat or drop bars.
>
> -Jersey Walt
>

It is just to small, and needs to be repainted or elbow greased to get some
surface rust on the top tube cable holder off.
I generaly feel ok on a 58 centimeter frame, and this is a 54 with a long post
and stem.
Thing is, I have ridden this bike loaded on long days with no discomfort.  154
miles over two small mountain ranges in one day, with no shimmys, and still able
to ride it 100 miles the next day.  The cockpit area fits well.   It just looks
goofy.  The only upside is that it is easyer to ship than a larger frame.
The original reason that I bothered with it was that when I found it, I rode it
a bit and realized what a great bike it was, low miles with just some garage
wear, and gave a guy a dollar for it.(had to take five bikes at a dollar each). 
Later I found this miyata group and saw that I was right.

Anyway, I stripped it down this evening, wanting to treat the rust on the cable
holder and some general scratches here and there.  Got to thinking about a total
repaint, then started wondering if it would be worth it.  Guess that I am
thinking that as good as this bike feels and rides, a larger touring bike may be
better. But there is no way I can afford anything near the quality of this one. 
Ug.

Hey folks - pics of the 700 GT in the photo albums with the heading 1992 700 GT.
Go have a look!  I will add more pics in a few days.

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.67/2505 - Release Date: 11/17/09 07:40:00

Anyone used or using these?
In particular, wonder what brake levers were used and the advantages or
disadvantages to flat or drop bars.

-Jersey Walt

Wolf,
Glad you finally got down to crux of the situation. I have the same issue with
my wife, she doesn't ride much and does not even know what friction shifting
feels like. What I found was the reaching down and shifting is very unnatural
for her and therefore all the bikes I have built for her are flatbar types. 
Basically like a city bike, made from a road bike with mountain bike handlebars
and shifters/brakes. The shifters/brakes are the thumb shift or grip shift types
and she sits relatively upright.  Here's a picture of someone else's setup. 
http://gallery.roadbikereview.com/data/roadbike/500/Scott_front.jpg
I may even have a few items you can have if you decide to go this route. BTW: if
you let us know the bike and model and also post some pics it would greatly help
us help you.

-Jersey Walt

--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, Wolf Ginandes <motieboy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Andy:
>
>
>     I'll use whatever freewheel I have to in order to get indexing to
> work, either standard or "ultra" spaced.   I want to use indexing
> because this conversion is going to be for my girlfriend.  She is not
> technically minded at all, and as it is she doesn't seem to
> understand the concept of friction shifting.  She just kind of flings
> the shift lever back and forth until something happens.  as often as
> not she'll be trying to climb up a steep hill in second or third
> gear, and laboring over it when she could be in first.   I figure
> indexed shifting will be easier for her to understand.  I don't want
> to lecture her or make her feel self-conscious about things, just
> provide an easy system.  If she likes it and wants to ride more with
> me, I win big!
>
>    It's starting to appear to me that the easiest, or maybe the only
> way will be to get a six jammed on my rear wheel somehow, and then
> find some old 6 speed shifters somewhere.  Unless maybe six speed
> shifters would work with a five speed freewheel.
>
> I've seen some NOS SunTour drivetrains on Ebay, they're six or seven
> speed setups, but if the cog spacing is the same as five speeds I can
> probably make it work..
>
>    thx, W
> On Nov 16, 2009, at 3:08 PM, Andrew Sohn wrote:
>
> >
> > The frame spacing of 5 speed is 120mm while the 6/7 speed is
> > 126mm.  According to Sheldon Brown the "standard" cog spacing is
> > 5.3mm but they made an "ultra six" narrow freewheel to fit the
> > 120mm spaced frames.  You can probably shove a standard 6 speed
> > freewheel in there as others say but  7 will probably not work
> > well.  You may need to re-space your hub or something like that
> > even to do the 6 speed right.  This is getting outside of my
> > experience.  Sheldon Brown has a piece on "standard" spaced 6 speed
> > versus "ultra six" (see link below).  The answer may lie there.
> > The path of least resistance would be to go to barcons, stay
> > friction, and use a new IRD 5 speed freewheel.  I have had trouble
> > with buggy 6 speed to 7 speed conversions let alone messing with 5
> > speed frames.  May I ask why the desire for indexing?  I hope this
> > helps.
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
> >
> >
> >
> > Andy Sohn
> >
> > SF CA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wolf Ginandes
> > Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:43 AM
> > To: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [MiyataSpecTour] Re: indexed shifting for older bikes
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Andy:
> >
> >
> >
> >    This is an early ten speed bike, so I don't think a six speed
> > freewheel will fit in the rear dropouts.  Is the spacing between
> > the gears of a five speed freewheel the same as the spacing on a
> > six or seven?  If so, I could probably get a six or seven speed
> > shifter/derailleur combination to work just using five of the clicks..
> >
> >
> >
> >   Thx, Wolf
> >
> > On Nov 16, 2009, at 2:20 PM, Andrew Sohn wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > All the indexing happens in the shifters so the only reason to
> > change rear derailleurs would be if the one you had didn't cover
> > the range of the freewheel/cassette.  For instance 1980's 7 speed
> > Dura Ace 740_ derailleurs cannot span a 9 speed cassette so you
> > need a 9 speed derailleur with the added throw.  Shimano SIS 600,
> > Light Action, or Dura Ace indexed downtube shifters should be
> > commonly available on ebay for real cheap.  You have to do some
> > research to make sure your whole system will work together.  As
> > Walt said the front shifter/derailleur will likely be friction no
> > matter what.  When you say indexed do you mean controls at
> > fingertip reach indexed like in the modern shift systems?  If so
> > then downtube shifters will not make you happy.  Another way to go
> > would be to stay with a high quality friction shifter and use
> > Rivendell Silver barcons.  These are a nice modern alternative to
> > indexed "brifters" and mean you can keep all of your existing
> > components.
> >
> >
> >
> > Andy Sohn
> >
> > SF CA
> >
> >
> >
> > From: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of qclabrat
> > Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:09 AM
> > To: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [MiyataSpecTour] Re: indexed shifting for older bikes
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > down tube would be easiest, but modern bikes are usually integrated
> > on the handlebars. If you are looking for a low cost upgrade, keep
> > your current wheels and add an 80's (like Shimano 600EX/105)indexed
> > rear derailleur and downtube shifters. You can probably keep the
> > front derailleur as it will remain friction. They can be found
> > online relatively cheap and often as a group for under $20. Moving
> > to the newer shifting systems and new wheels would run you $200 to
> > start. Many of us have here on MiyataSpecTour have modernized our
> > bikes and enjoyed the process. Some are extremely good at doing so
> > (not me included), freely ask questions, the folks here are real
> > friendly and knowledgeable.
> >
> > -Jersey Walt
> >
> > --- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, Wolf Ginandes <motieboy@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > HEy Jersey,
> > > thanks for the reply. I don't really care where the shifters
> > > are, as long as I can get something to work. What do you think the
> > > easiest method would be?
> > >
> > > thanks, W
> > > On Nov 12, 2009, at 11:47 PM, qclabrat wrote:
> > >
> > > > Many indexed systems will work and may only need minor
> > > > retrofitting. Are you considering downtube or bar-end shifters?
> > > >
> > > > Jersey Walt
> > > >
> > > > --- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, "bdh1y" <motieboy@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone have opinions on what's the best way to install indexed
> > > > shifting on an old circa mid-seventies 10 speed bicycle? Can
> > modern
> > > > stuff be adapted, or must I find some old early indexed system
> > from
> > > > the same era?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.67/2505 - Release Date: 11/16/09 07:43:00

I'm not well-versed in the Miyata: Expeditions are my forte. So if this '91 is a
rarity, would someone please copy the photos and put them in our photo archive?
I'm having enough problems with the hotel keyboard, otherwise I'd do it.









--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, Reinhart Bigl <rbigl@...> wrote:
>
>
> This is the first time I've seen the '91 1000. Interesting....does anyone know
if the bike comes stock with the Sugino extension top nut?
>
> Also, I have an '89 1000...noticed that at the rear dropouts, the '91 does not
have a rear-wheel side-to-side (for lack of the actual term) axle adjusters that
earlier models seem to have.
>
>
>
> To that end, I'm looking at swapping out the original 7 speed rear cassette
for a 9-speed setup (derailleur and bar end shifters as well of course...I want
to move to 12-32/34). If anyone out there can advise me on whether I also need
to swap out the hub to accomodate the 9-speed unit or if it will fit the current
space on the original hub that I'm using, I'd appreciate it.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Reinhart Bigl
>
> Innisfil, Ontario
>
>
>
> To: MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com
> From: jkguinness@...
> Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:29:56 +0000
> Subject: [MiyataSpecTour] 1991 Miyata 1000 60 cm for sale in Atlanta (not
mine)
>
>
>
>
>
> Thought someone on the list may be interested. It looks mint.
> http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/1466079725.html
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail
you.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691817
>

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.67/2505 - Release Date: 11/16/09 07:43:00

down tube would be easiest, but modern bikes are usually integrated on the
handlebars.  If you are looking for a low cost upgrade, keep your current wheels
and add an 80's (like Shimano 600EX/105)indexed rear derailleur and downtube
shifters.  You can probably keep the front derailleur as it will remain
friction. They can be found online relatively cheap and often as a group for
under $20.  Moving to the newer shifting systems and new wheels would run you
$200 to start.  Many of us have here on MiyataSpecTour have modernized our bikes
and enjoyed the process.  Some are extremely good at doing so (not me included),
freely ask questions, the folks here are real friendly and knowledgeable.

-Jersey Walt

--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, Wolf Ginandes <motieboy@...> wrote:
>
> HEy Jersey,
>     thanks for the reply.  I don't really care where the shifters
> are, as long as I can get something to work.  What do you think the
> easiest method would be?
>
>   thanks, W
> On Nov 12, 2009, at 11:47 PM, qclabrat wrote:
>
> > Many indexed systems will work and may only need minor
> > retrofitting. Are you considering downtube or bar-end shifters?
> >
> > Jersey Walt
> >
> > --- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, "bdh1y" <motieboy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone have opinions on what's the best way to install indexed
> > shifting on an old circa mid-seventies 10 speed bicycle? Can modern
> > stuff be adapted, or must I find some old early indexed system from
> > the same era?
> > >
> >
> >
>

Thought someone on the list may be interested.  It looks mint.
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/1466079725.html

Your response to indexing an older bike is a wonderful contribution.
It derserves to be retained and posted on a web site so
it may be available by searches.

I've done a couple of conversions of old lugged bikes to modern
drive trains. The first was a Miyata 610 (1986). The second was a Schwin Super
Sport (1987).

First an oppinion on the economics of this conversion, Some people beleives it
doesn.t make sense because a new bike can be purchased
for less than a conversion. However a lugged chrome moly frame bike
similarly equipped would typically far more that a similarly equipped
new bike. So if you really like the old frames (as I do) I would not hesitate to
make the expenditure.

Second, One of the cheapest ways of conversion is to find a donor bike. There
are small framed or damaged bikes avaialable CL that can supply almost all of
what you need. This was how I did the second conversion.

bdh1y,

Yes, you can install indexed shifting on older bikes, but you do have
to be ready to do some inventive work, possibly deal with some
frustration, and unless you already have parts, a fair amount of
money.  You didn't mention how much you want to do, but using indexed
rear shifting and non-indexed front shifting (barcons for road bars
or grip shifts for mountain bars) is definitely easier than trying to
do full front and rear.

I've converted my '89 Miyata 618GT and built a bike for my wife using
a '70s Motobecane Mixtie frame.  Both of them are now 24 speed (3 x
8) with rear indexed shifting and front friction shifting.

For a 6 or 7-spd setup (5-spd indexed is virtually non-existent) I
would retain the original wheel with the freewheel hub.  7-Spd parts
are more readily available.  To go above 7 speeds I would definitely
replace the rear wheel (or at least the hub) with a freehub setup.  8
& 9-speed parts are readily available for this conversion.   Below
are the basic things to consider if you want to do this.

BTW, If you are not familiar with some the things here Sheldon
Brown's website <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.html> is a
great resource.  And if this stuff sounds above your head, maybe you
should have a bike shop do it for you, or just be happy with what you
have.  :-)


1. The Frame.
You will need to modify the rear dropout spacing on your frame to
accommodate you intended indexed conversion.  If you don't do this it
will be very difficult to get the rear wheel in or out and could
contribute to frame failure down the road.  This is done by "cold
setting" the rear stays.  I use a piece of 3/8" 'thread-all" with
bolts and washers for cold setting, but there are other ways.  See
Sheldon Brown's site or others for details on cold setting.

CAUTION:  Attempting to modify rear dropout spacing by coldsetting
could RUIN THE FRAME.  Work slowly and carefully.  Support the
chainstay and seatstay bridges to prevent breaking their welds.  Make
sure the frame is still in alignment and the dropouts are parallel
with each other when the job is completed.  If you are not
comfortable doing this, see a bike shop or a frame builder to have
the job done.

If you have a 5-spd rear freewheel (or an "Ultra 6") the rear dropout
spacing will be 120mm.  For a 6 or 7-spd conversion this dropout
spacing will need to be changed to 126mm.  If the bike is already a
6-spd, your dropouts should already be spaced at 126mm and your all
set for a 6 or 7-spd conversion.

For 8 and 9-spd setups the droupout spacing is 130mm (135 for a
mountain bike hub).  For a 5-spd frame this is 10mm (3/8") stretch,
which is a little more difficult, but it can be done.  Be sure to
support the chainstay and seatstay bridges when cold setting and make
sure the frame is still in alignment and the dropouts are parallel
when you get done.  A 135mm hub takes a 15mm (5/8") stretch.  A bike
shop or frame builder might be a good idea here, but it can be done
if you are careful (I cold set my wife's Mixtie frame from 120mm to
135mm dropout spacing).

If you have a 6-spd the change from 126mm to 130mm is fairly
easy.  Going to 135mm is also doable if you're careful.

2. The Rear Wheel.
5-spd to 6 or 7-spd Freewheel.  You will need to re-space the rear
wheel from 120mm to 126mm with spacers (available from a bike
shop).  Don't get one 6mm spacer, but get two 2mm and two1mm
spacers.  This will allow you to adjust the lateral wheel position in
1mm increments.  You use the spacers so that the freewheel (and
chain) you are using will clear the the stays when the chain is on
the smallest cog.  Don't over do it or your wheel will have more dish
than it needs.  The other spacers go on the other side of the wheel
to make up the 126mm length to match the dropouts.

5 or 6-spd to 7 or 8-spd Freehub.  A 7/8-spd freehub (they're the
same size) will already be spaced at 130mm (or 135mm if it's a
mountain bike hub), so you should not have to play with the
spacing.  But you may have to anyway!  My wife's frame was never made
with 11 tooth cogs in mind and the standard spacing caused the chain
to rub on the chainstay.  So I had to go increase the spacing on the
drive side (and decrease it on the non-drive side).  This is one of
the reasons I used a 135mm spaced hub on her bike as it allowed less dish.

Dish - I've mention it, but what is it?  It's simply adjusting the
lateral position of the rim so that it is centered between the two
sets of stays.  Changing the spacing on the axle will mess this up
and it needs to be re-adjusted for the bike to ride correctly.  If
you're not comfortable truing or working with wheels this might be
another job left to your local bike shop.

3. Cogset.  If you have kept your original rear wheel you will need a
replacement FREEWHEEL.  The old one screws off (you need a removal
tool and a big wrench, or even better, a vise) and the new one screws
on (lube the threads).  Decent freewheels are still made by IRD and
you can get them from Rivendell Bicycles <http://www.rivbike.com> or
Harris Cyclery
<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html>.  Whoever you get the
freewheel from make sure they understand it is for a Shimano
compatible indexed system.  Although 8-spd freewheels are available,
do not try to make an 8-spd freewheel setup.  The axle will likely
bend or break from the extended unsupported length needed for a 8-spd
setup.  If you want 8-spd, replace the wheel with a freehub type.

If you have replaced your rear wheel with the newer FREEHUB style
then you will need a CASSETTE.  Cassette are sets of cogs like on
your old freewheel, but they aren't mounted on anything (although
some may be connected together).  These will mount on the freehub
that is part of your new wheel.  They only go on one way, look for
the little arrow on the cassette and the wide space on the
freehub.  7-spd cassettes are still available, but they are getting
scarce.  I recommend going to an 8 or 9-spd setup if you've gone to a freehub.

4. Rear Derailer.  Belive it or not the tuffest part is over!  You
will need to use a derailer that is made for indexed shifting, so
throw the old one on the junk pile.  Most modern derailers made for 8
or 9-speed will work on 7, 8, or 9-spd indexed systems.  If you don't
have a big box of derailers to play with tell your LBS what you are
doing and ask for a recommendation.  There is one problem.... most
older bikes did not have a derailer hanger, but instead used a
derailer with a "claw" attached.  And all those derailers will not
work with the indexed system!  The solution is "claw" made to
retrofit newer derailers onto older bikes.  These are available from
Harris Cyclery or others, maybe even your LBS has one.  Be sure and
get the ones for retrofitting.  Some of the replacement hangers for
today's aluminum and carbon bike look a lot like what you want, but
they won't work!

5. Front Derailer.  If you go with an indexed rear/friction front
you're done here!  Whatever you already have will work.  Front
indexing can be tricky.  If you want front indexing you will need to
replace the front derailer and the chainrings for indexed compatible
types.  You also are limited in what ring sizes you can use, and road
and mountain derailers are not interchangeable (rear mountain/road
derailers are interchangable).  As I said before, it can be done but
it's a lot tougher.  Of course if you have your heart set on a fancy
new brifer shifting setup it's the only way to go!

6. Shifters.  These can be many types.  For indexed rear/friction
front downtube or barend shifters work good for a road bike.  For
mountain bike (flat), or "North Road" type bars Rivendell sells bars
that will take barend shifters (Albatross bars), Grip Shift twist
shifters work good or Paul Component Engineering
<http://www.paulcomp.com/> sells "Thumbies" that will allow downtube
road bike shifters to be mounted on flat bars.

Whatever you use they MUST match the freewheel/cassette and rear
derailer.  This applies to both speeds and brand.  Shimano,
Campagnolo and Suntour parts do not interchange (At least without
special messing about).  Shimano is the most common so I would
recommend sticking with Shimano parts unless you have a real thing
for Campy or have a good supply of old Suntour indexed parts.  BTW,
"Shimano Compatible" is OK.  There is a number of companies making
parts that will work in a Shimano system (i.e. the IRD freewheels
mentioned above).  But if you have a Shimano (or compatible)(
freewheel or cassette, you must have a Shimano (or compatible)
derailer and Shimano (or compatible) shifters, and the speeds must
match (with the possible exception of the derailer).  You cannot mix
& match parts with an indexed system the way you can with a friction system.

7. Cable.  Almost done!  You must replace the shifting cables and
housings when you change to an indexed system.  The old type housings
compressed and the cables stretched too much for indexing to
work.  You can get this (and it's probably all you can get) at just
about any bike shop.  Tell them it's for an indexed system, just to
be sure you get the right type.

I've probably missed some details, but that the basics of how it's
done.  Sound like fun?  Then you may be a candidate for a classic
bike with modern indexed shifting.  But if it sounds like a horror
story, you may want to stick to the old friction shifting, or find
someone that likes messing about with bikes to help you.

Kerry Kunsman
San Diego, CA
'89 Miyata 618GT (or is it 624GT)


At 05:13 PM 11/11/2009, bdh1y wrote:
>Anyone have opinions on what's the best way to install indexed
>shifting on an old circa mid-seventies 10 speed bicycle?  Can modern
>stuff be adapted, or must I find some old early indexed system from
>the same era?

Many indexed systems will work and may only need minor retrofitting.  Are you
considering downtube or bar-end shifters?

Jersey Walt

--- In MiyataSpecTour@yahoogroups.com, "bdh1y" <motieboy@...> wrote:
>
> Anyone have opinions on what's the best way to install indexed shifting on an
old circa mid-seventies 10 speed bicycle?  Can modern stuff be adapted, or must
I find some old early indexed system from the same era?
>