I didn't hone anything. The 2stroke guy at the yamaha dealership said
put it together like this unless the cylinder walls are scored up, if
they fix it, if not line this up like this and put this here and
you're in. I used oil to lube the cylinder walls and put it together
by hand like he said.

Will this be ok? It's a stock 01 YZ125 that just had it's first
cylinder replaced as far as I know.

david


--- In F125@yahoogroups.com, Steve <huronmountain@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard mixed things on using a hone on Nikasil cylinders and
most of the recommendations I saw were to not hone the cylinder unless
it was visibly scratched, and then to have it done by a shop. I'm
curious if most people have been doing this when installing a new
piston? This paragraph below is from an Eric Gorr article regarding
cylinder hones.
>
> Eric Gorr wrote:
> Many people have emailed me with questions regarding honing cylinder
> bores. If you want to buy a hone to deglaze bores or polish off small
> scratches, then a ball-hone is the best choice. Ball hones are
> manufactured by Brush Research in Los Angeles, under the brand name
> Flex-Hone. These hones are available under different labels and they
> are most easily available from auto parts stores. Buy a size that is
> 10% smaller than the actual bore size. These hones are available in
> several different materials and grits but the profile that bests suits
> both steel and plated cylinders is aluminum oxide 240 grit. A ball hone
> cannot remove material from the cylinder bore, especially on the hard
> nickel plated bores. However a ball hone can polish down the peaks of
> the original hone scratches and increase the bearing ratio. In other
> words the piston will be touching a greater percentage of the bore.
> Sometimes that makes the piston wear quicker but if you have to ball
> hone the bore to remove scratches, it¢s a compromise. The one type of
> hone that you should never use on a two-stroke cylinder is a
> spring-loaded finger hone. The sharp edges of the stone will snag the
> port edges and most likely damage the hone and the cylinder.
>
>
> Steve Elzinga
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "pbpied@..." <pbpied@...>
> To: f125@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:39:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [F125] New piston/ring break-in procedure
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> When we redo the top end (BTW, you did use a hone to break
>
> the cylinder glaze, didn't you?) we like to put the engines through
>
> three or four heat cycles. That means bringing them up to normal
>
> operating temperature, and letting them cool completely in between.
>
>
>
> We don't usually let them idle, though, just a little low rpm revving,
>
> between probably 2 and 4K rpm. When heated, we rev up a time
>
> two to more like 9000, on the second heat cycle. After four heat
>
> cycles, we just take the kart out and run it. That's the fun part!
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/2007 5:54:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>
> boxsterracer139@ yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>
> Ok apparently I didn't try to start the kart enough times or I
>
> flooded it and it started fine the other day. Cool. So I let it idle
>
> at about 1500-2000 RPM I'd guess for about 10 min.
>
>
>
> What do i need to do now to break it in properly?
>
>
>
> I got an autocross in about 2 weeks so I got some time to get it done,
>
> but I want it done right. Coming from stock class cars to this I have
>
> no clue what I'm doing. :)
>
>
>
> Thanks again guys, I appreciate all the help.
>
>
>
> David
>
>
>
> ************ ********* ********* ******** Get a sneak peak of the
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>
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