I have heard mixed things on using a hone on Nikasil cylinders and most of the
recommendations I saw were to not hone the cylinder unless it was visibly
scratched, and then to have it done by a shop. I'm curious if most people have
been doing this when installing a new piston? This paragraph below is from an
Eric Gorr article regarding cylinder hones.
Eric Gorr wrote:
Many people have emailed me with questions regarding honing cylinder
bores. If you want to buy a hone to deglaze bores or polish off small
scratches, then a ball-hone is the best choice. Ball hones are
manufactured by Brush Research in Los Angeles, under the brand name
Flex-Hone. These hones are available under different labels and they
are most easily available from auto parts stores. Buy a size that is
10% smaller than the actual bore size. These hones are available in
several different materials and grits but the profile that bests suits
both steel and plated cylinders is aluminum oxide 240 grit. A ball hone
cannot remove material from the cylinder bore, especially on the hard
nickel plated bores. However a ball hone can polish down the peaks of
the original hone scratches and increase the bearing ratio. In other
words the piston will be touching a greater percentage of the bore.
Sometimes that makes the piston wear quicker but if you have to ball
hone the bore to remove scratches, it¢s a compromise. The one type of
hone that you should never use on a two-stroke cylinder is a
spring-loaded finger hone. The sharp edges of the stone will snag the
port edges and most likely damage the hone and the cylinder.
Steve Elzinga
----- Original Message ----
From: "pbpied@..." <pbpied@...>
To: f125@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:39:07 AM
Subject: Re: [F125] New piston/ring break-in procedure
When we redo the top end (BTW, you did use a hone to break
the cylinder glaze, didn't you?) we like to put the engines through
three or four heat cycles. That means bringing them up to normal
operating temperature, and letting them cool completely in between.
We don't usually let them idle, though, just a little low rpm revving,
between probably 2 and 4K rpm. When heated, we rev up a time
two to more like 9000, on the second heat cycle. After four heat
cycles, we just take the kart out and run it. That's the fun part!
Alan
In a message dated 7/11/2007 5:54:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
boxsterracer139@ yahoo.com writes:
Ok apparently I didn't try to start the kart enough times or I
flooded it and it started fine the other day. Cool. So I let it idle
at about 1500-2000 RPM I'd guess for about 10 min.
What do i need to do now to break it in properly?
I got an autocross in about 2 weeks so I got some time to get it done,
but I want it done right. Coming from stock class cars to this I have
no clue what I'm doing. :)
Thanks again guys, I appreciate all the help.
David
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