+ DTR Winter Mode

+ DTR winter run locations

+ Dealing with ice: Screwshoes and other traction devices

+ Snowshoeing

It looks like this Thursday will be our first really cold, and possibly wet run of the season. That makes it a good time to remind DTRs about winter running tips and how we usually operate through the season.

WINTER MODE

DTR continues to run through the winter, at dark, sometimes on ice and snow. Some may think that you have to be a little crazy to run in the cold and dark, on ice and snow. Perhaps so, but we'll be there, and you are welcome to join us.

When it's cold outside, many of us will wait in our cars until just before the start of the run. We don't stand around much before, during and after the runs. That means that we may not to take a lot of time explaining the route or making introductions. We are less likely to stop and wait for long at key intersections. Please familiarize yourself with the routes in advance. Use the trail rating ("N" means navigational difficulty) to see which routes are easy to follow and when you might need a map. We do encourage you to join us, and we’ll try to make sure you have someone to help guide you, but you may have to do parts of the run on your own.

Everyone is invited to join us at dinner after the runs. We'll take more time to do introductions and socialize inside, where it's warm.

You will need a light over the winter (maybe not on full moons). For information on running with lights, please refer to the write-up by Jeff

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/DenverTrailRunners/message/1043

You will want to have warm, dry clothes to change into quickly after the run – probably something different than your work clothes.

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WINTER ROUTES

We will continue to run some of the trails over the winter. We usually stay away from the more technical trails and those that tend to get icy. We also run some flat and/or paved locations.

Some of our best runs have been in the snow – e.g., cutting virgin tracks on Green Mountain overlooking the lights of the city; running through the trees at Bear Creek Lake Park, feeling like we’re in the wilderness when we’re really so close to town; running up Chimney Gulch after a fresh snowfall, with the snow covering the rocks making it safer and smoother than running on a track. Don't be afraid of the snow and ice (more on ice running below). If there's a lot of snow, like in 06/07, we may end up snowshoeing on some of the runs (more on snowshoeing below).

Some of our regular winter running routes are:

• Bear Creek Lake Park - Mostly flat trails that usually are good to run in snow/ice. Paved road (almost no cars) and bike paths also available.
• Red Rocks – Hilly roads (low traffic) and trails, depending on conditions. Connection to Matthews Winters.
• Green Mountain – Dries quickly. Avoid when muddy.
• South Table – Short climb, then mostly flat on top. Avoid when muddy or windy.
• Lookout – Sometimes we’ll run up via the trail, then down via the road (low traffic).
• South Valley – Fairly flat and runable trails on snow and ice. Avoid when muddy.
• Chief Hosa – Maintained dirt road with a moderate grade. The last mile to the top may require some post-holing through snow, but can be avoided.
• Stonehouse – Bike path along Bear Creek. Trail along the path in some parts. We usually run to Bear Creek Lake Park dam and back.

We're always open to input for new run locations. We may do some of the other summer trails on weekends; e.g., Deer Creek, Elk Meadow, Lair, O’Fallon.

The run location may change at the last minute due to weather and trail conditions. As a group, we try to stay off wet and muddy trails. Using (running, hiking, biking, horse) trails when they're wet and soft speeds erosion and can leave ruts. DTR will take a conservative approach when deciding where to run, regardless of whether others may be using the trail.

If you do happen to be on a muddy trail, please stay on the trail, even if that means running though the mud. Do not run in the brush. This expands the footprint of the trail for the future and destroys the natural environment. Please avoid using unofficial "social" or game trails.

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ICE

Sometimes we have to run on ice and snow. Here are some tricks for making that easier.

There are several tools to help you when running on ice. There are devices that slip on your shoes, such as Yaktrax, Get-A-Grip, STABILicers, and GripOns. These cost $15-$50, and are available at most running, outdoor and sporting goods stores. Take note of and shop at the stores that offer discounts to DTRs (listed at the bottom of the regular weekly message). They easily slip on most running shoes. These devices (and screwshoes, below) work best on ice and hard packed snow. They don't help much in deep, soft powder. They can fall off the shoe in deeper and softer snow.

Many of us use screwshoes. It's a simple and cheap way to convert your shoes to ice runners. You put sheet metal screws into your shoe, point up – yes, I said point up. It's the hex head that grips the ice. You don't feel the point if you use the right screws. They don't ruin your shoes; the rubber seals around the hole when you take them out in the spring. Most of us use an older pair of trail shoes. All you need are a few screws across the back and outside of the heel, and across the ball of the foot. It takes just a few minutes to do, and is inexpensive. If the sole has raised tread, put them in there. You have to be careful if putting them into shoes with air/gel pockets. I recommend #6 or #8 head size, ¼" in the front, 3/8" or ½" in the heel. A socket wrench works better than a screw driver. I'll bring a pair, some screws, and a socket, to demonstrate, at upcoming runs. We may have a screwshoe making party sometime soon. For more information, "How To" and pictures, go to http://www.skyrunner.com/screwshoe.htm

Note that any of these traction devices are designed to work on ice and hard packed snow, not on soft snow and deep powder.

Learning to run on ice can improve your stride. With or without traction devices, use a light, quick stride. Strike the ground with your feet pulling back against the ground. Get up on the balls of your feet. It's hard to balance on your heels. This will help keep you nimble and safe. I use the image of running on hot coals. If you can do that well, you will become more efficient when running on dry ground.

Consider getting some neoprene (e.g., Sealskinz, Seirus) or Gore-tex socks to help keep your feet warm and dry.

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SNOWSHOES

Run on snowshoes? Are you crazy? Yes, but that's beside the point. Snowshoe running is an awesome workout (you can easily burn >1,000 calories/hour), very easy to learn, low impact, almost injury free, perhaps the warmest winter sport, and a lot of fun.

Modern snowshoes are not like the old ones you might imagine. They are fairly small and lightweight. You don't have to waddle like a duck. You can run with little or no change in your stride, depending on the terrain.

There are different types of shoes for different uses. Running snowshoes are lighter in weight, have a narrower profile and a different cleat system than hiking and backcountry shoes. Weight matters. When it's on your foot, at the end of the pendulum, you notice small weight differences than when it's around your waist, Think of the difference in how it feels to run when your shoes are dry, versus after they get wet and full of mud.

The other main functional difference is in how the shoes track on the snow. With backcountry shoes, the toe pivots so that the back stays on the snow, even if you are going up an extremely steep slope. With running shoes, the toe pivots somewhat, but the tail comes off the snow. For running, you don't want the shoe dragging and getting caught on rocks and sticks. Different models work somewhat differently. However, the similar effect is that snow gets kicked up from behind, sort of a rooster tail effect.

Racing shoes typically weight 2-2.5 lbs/pair. Racing shoes are a little more expensive, around $250. While that sounds like a lot, they should last for years, and come with long, sometimes lifetime warranties. Running shoes also work well for hiking if you are primarily going to snowshoe on packed or well established trails. Instead, you can get a light weight hiking or sport type shoe. They are less expensive and heavier. They still work well for running. Many races will have free loaners available. Check in advance.

Most companies make what they call women's snowshoes. These are basically smaller and narrower. You don't have to be a woman to use them.

Some of the more popular brands you tend to see at races include: Atlas, Crescent Moon (Boulder based), Northern Lites, Redfeather and Tubbs. Look for deals online. You can rent snowshoes at nordic ski areas and many places that also rent skis. Some running stores rent racing shoes, including Runners Roost Lakewood.

Keeping your feet warm is important. Many racers wear a neoprene sock (e.g., Seirus or Sealskinz brand), either alone or over a think sock liner, or Gore-tex over-sock. The cheap version of this is a plastic shopping bag (over socks and inside shoes) and duct tape. Trail running gaiters (small, that just cover your ankle), keep snow out of the shoe, to keep ice building up on the shoe collar and rubbing your foot. Don't wear cotton socks. Use wool or synthetic socks that stay warm and dry. Most people race in running shoes. Lightweight hiking shoes, or even light Nordic boots work well. Snowshoeing is one of the few areas where Gore-tex running shoes really help. If you wear running shoes, some people put a winter cycling bootie, over the shoe, to help keep their feet warm and dry.

For clothing, wear slick outer layers. You get wet from below, even when it's sunny, from kicking up snow, the "rooster tail" effect. DON'T WEAR FLEECE on the outside. It acts like Velcro to snow. You will end up covered in snow, and carrying all that extra weight. For a similar reason, zip up pockets and cover mesh. Nylon pants and jackets work well. Dress in layers. If you are running, you will generate a lot of body heat and sweat.

Where to go? Pull out a map. Look for a trail. You can snowshoe many places you might hike or mtn bike in warmer months. After a decent snowfall in town, try trails without too many rocks. I've had good snowshoeing at Deer Creek and Green Mountain. A little further up, there are some good places off of Squaw Pass Rd, Echo Lake, Jones Pass/Butler Gulch, and Berthoud Pass (off of US40). For a longer drive, head up to Rocky Mountain National Park. Also, most of the nordic centers have designated snowshoe trails that are easy to follow. There, you'll need to pay a trail fee.

I think it's more fun when you get off trail and play in the powder. Trying to run in powder can be extremely slow going. It can take you 45 min to do a mile, in hip deep powder, at max effort. Powder can be good with a group of diverse abilities. The stronger runners/hikers can take turns breaking the trail, while the others follow behind.

Poles are optional. They provide better stability and an upper body workout. However, you then miss working your core and hip stabilizing muscles. They can get in the way when you are running. They are not allowed at most races, for safety reasons.

Snowshoe races range in distance from 2km to 20mi. Don't expect your times to reflect what you do on roads. Distances are typically not measured precisely. Snow conditions, hills, packed trail vs. off-trail, etc., will all affect how much time the course will take. I've seen 5k times under 20 minutes on a packed trail, and up to an hour for the winner when the course is off trail and through thick powder. Most races will have lots of first time snowshoe racers and non-runners, and people who will walk the whole way. Please don't be intimidated. Give it a try. There are about 15-20 snowshoe races in Colorado through the season.

There are a couple of free demo days, Winter Trails. Also, we may have a couple of group outings. Pay attention to the calendar in future DTR messages.