+ DTR Winter Mode
+ DTR winter run locations
+ Lights
+ Dealing with ice: Screwshoes and other ice devices
+ Snowshoeing


WINTER MODE
Daylight Savings Time ends this weekend. Yet, DTR continues to run
through the winter, at dark, sometimes on ice and snow. Some think
it's a little crazy to run in the cold and dark, on ice and snow.
Regardless of what you think about running on winter evenings, we'll
be there, and you are welcome to join us.

When it's cold, we don't stand around much before and after the runs.
Many of us will wait in our cars until just before the start of the
run. We're not going to take a lot of time explaining the route or
making introductions. We are less likely to stop and wait at key
intersections. Turnout is usually lower than over the summer. Please
familiarize yourself with the routes in advance. Use the trail rating
("N" means navigational difficulty) to see which routes are easy to
follow and when you might need a map. Everyone is welcome, and I do
want to encourage you to join us, but you may have to do much of the
run on your own. Everyone is invited to join us at dinner after the
runs. We'll take more time to do introductions and socialize inside,
where it's warm.

An exception to this is our full moon runs. These runs are meant to be
social, not hard workouts. We do try to keep everyone pretty close
together and regroup at key intersections. These have been fun outings
in the past.

You will need a light over the winter (maybe not on the full moon).
Sometimes, you will have to deal with ice. More on these below.

You will want to have warm, dry clothes to change into quickly after
the run – probably something different than your work clothes.

++++++++++
WINTER ROUTES
We will continue to run some of the trails over the winter. We usually
stay away from the more technical trails and those that tend to get
icy. We also run some flat and/or paved locations.

Some of our best runs have been in the snow – such as cutting virgin
tracks on Green Mountain, like being in the wilderness, yet so close
to town; or running up Chimney Gulch, after a fresh snowfall, where
the snow covered the rocks making it safer and smoother than running
on a track. Don't be afraid of the snow and ice. More on ice running
below. If there's a lot of snow, like most of last winter, we may end
up snowshoeing. More on snowshoeing below.

Some of our regular winter running routes are:
* Bear Creek Lake Park - Mostly flat trails that are good in snow/ice;
road/bike path option
* Red Rocks – Hilly roads (low traffic) and trails, depending on
conditions. Connection to Matthews Winters.
* Green Mountain – Dries quickly. Avoid when muddy.
* South Table – Short climb, then mostly flat on top. Avoid when muddy
or windy.
* Lookout – Sometimes we run up the trail, then down the road (low
traffic).
* Chief Hosa – Maintained dirt road until last mile to the top; may
require some post-holing through snow.
* Stonehouse – Bike path along Bear Creek. Trail along the path in
some parts. Run to Bear Creek Lake Park dam and back.
* Crown Hill – New this year, if there's interest.

We're always open to input for new run locations.

The run location may change at the last minute due to weather and
trail conditions. As a group, we try to stay off wet and muddy trails.
Using (running, hiking, biking, horse) trails when they're wet and
soft can leave ruts and speed erosion. DTR will take a conservative
approach when deciding where to run.

If you do happen to be on a muddy trail, please stay on the trail,
even if that means running though the mud. Do not run in the brush.
This expands the footprint of the trail for the future and destroys
the natural environment. Please avoid using unofficial "social" or
game trails.

++++++++++
ICE
Sometimes we have to run on ice and snow. Here are some tricks for
making that easier.

There are several tools to help you when running on ice. There are
devices that slip on your shoes, such as Yaktrax, Get-A-Grip,
STABILicers, and GripOns. These cost $15-$50, and are available at
most running, outdoor and sporting goods stores. Take note of and shop
at the stores that offer discounts to DTRs (listed at the bottom of
the regular weekly message). They easily slip on most running shoes.
These devices (and screwshoes, below) work best on ice and hard packed
snow. They don't help much in deep, soft powder. They can fall off the
shoe in deeper and softer snow.

Many of us use screwshoes. It's a simple and cheap way to convert your
shoes to ice runners. You put sheet metal screws into your shoe, point
up – yes, I said point up. It's the hex head that grips the ice. You
don't feel the point if you use the right screws. They don't ruin your
shoes; the rubber seals around the hole when you take them out in the
spring. Most of us use an older pair of trail shoes. All you need are
a few screws across the back and outside of the heel, and across the
ball of the foot. It takes just a few minutes to do, and is
inexpensive. If the sole has raised tread, put them in there. You have
to be careful if putting them into shoes with air/gel pockets. I
recommend #6 or #8 head size, ¼" in the front, 3/8" or ½" in the heel.
A socket wrench works better than a screw driver. I'll bring a pair,
some screws, and a socket, to demonstrate, at the next several runs.
For more information, "How To" and pictures, go to
http://www.skyrunner.com/screwshoe.htm

Learning to run on ice can improve your stride. With or without
traction devices, use a light, quick stride. Strike the ground with
your feet pulling back against the ground. Get up on the balls of your
feet. It's hard to balance on your heals. This will help keep you
nimble and safe. I use the image of running on hot coals. If you can
do that well, you will become more efficient when running on dry ground.

Consider getting some neoprene (e.g., Sealskinz, Seirus) or Gore-tex
socks to help keep your feet warm and dry.

++++++++++
LIGHTS - Thanks to Jeff O'Reilly for writing much of this section.
Running during the short days of winter usually requires that you run
with lights.
Some things to consider:
*Contrast gives you depth-perception
*Peripheral vision avoids vertigo and tunnel-vision
*Brightness gives you speed and confidence.
*Weight/bulk
*Battery life
*Cost

Contrast is created by having light below your eyes where you can see
some shadow. The closer your lighting is to your eyes – like a
headlamp – the less the contrasts. Dancing shadows help reveal where
and how deep a hole is or how big a rock is. If the light is right
next to your eyes, you'll see no shadow. If the shadows are too dark
(too much of a good thing), this may erode your confidence, making you
slow down.

Multiple sources of light, from different angles, improves contrast.
Crisscrossing shadows give your eyes better perspectives and can bring
out dark spots. Some of us will run with both a hand and head light.

Peripheral vision is aided by stray light. Reflectors try to block
stray light and direct it forward for greater range. Since runners
need the most effective light about 6 feet in front of them,
reflectors are counter-productive. What's good for a camp sight is not
good for running a trail. Reflectors also tend to cause light and dark
bands and spots, which confuse contrast.

Head lights leave your hands free and shine where you are looking.
However, the light directly over your eyes can create glare, reducing
contrast. Hand lights can be easily directed and reduce glare.
However, it takes practice to keep the light's direction from swinging
widely while still using your arms.

Incandescent bulbs are last century's technology. They are dim, eat
batteries and burn out, especially when dropped.

LEDs last virtually forever. There are regular LEDs (less than 1 watt)
and "super-bright" LEDs (more than 1 watt). The brighter LEDs provide
more light, but use batteries faster.

There are lights that utilize both LEDs and xenon or halogen bulbs.
The battery-eating xenon/halogen is usually surrounded by a reflector
that gives you a very bright projecting light. This gives you the best
of both worlds – a bright halogen/xenon for the more technical
sections, and an LED to save battery light for the smoother areas.
Depending on the unit model, you may have several switch settings that
allow you to choose the brightness of light and longevity of your
batteries.

Some of us use biking lights for running. Mountain biking lights are
super bright, often using the HID technology in many newer and
expensive car headlights. The battery pack is heavy and can be
cumbersome, but it's just training. Commuter bike lights are light and
very cost effective. Most of them are easy to carry in your hand. Or,
as I have done, it's easy to create a hand strap with some duct tape.

It's better to have too much light than to have too little. Find the
right level of brightness, weight, for the speeds and trails you want
to run, and your own relative vision at night.

If you're only going to have one light, use it lower down for better
depth-perception. Many headlamps can be converted to a waist or chest
light. If you are using multiple lights, use the dimmer light on your
head - to fill but not obliterate shadows created from your lower
light(s) – and the brighter one lower down.

Colored lenses diminish the light output, but can increase the
efficiency of your night-vision. Yellow, brown, and amber block blue
light, reduce haze and glare and increase contrast making things
clearer during speed sports. Red light is good for retaining
night-vision.

Also consider weight and bulk. Some headlamps have the batteries
integrated into the light, which is smaller and lighter with no wires,
but tend to be front-heavy. Headlamps with separate battery packs are
balanced, but are heavier overall and have wires which may end up
getting mangled or worn-out. With a separate pack, keep the batteries
in a pocket or small pack/pouch. Batteries provide more power and last
longer when kept warm. Route the connection lines inside any shirts or
jackets you might take off during a run.

For short runs, rechargeable NiMH batteries work great and save money.
Lithium batteries last longer, work well in the cold, and don't go bad
sitting on the shelf, but cost a lot more. This may be a better choice
for frigid winter runs or ultra-events that last through the night(s).

Costs range from about $15 - $60. Headlamps tend to cost more than
generic flashlights. The fancier the features (LEDs+halogen
reflector+4 switch settings) can send the price over $50.

When shopping, you'll see ratings for candlepower, lumens and/or
watts. Watts refers to power usage and doesn't translate directly into
brightness. Candlepower and lumens refer to brightness. Candlepower is
a linear measurement, one candlepower is equal to a birthday candle
one foot away. A lumen is a square foot of light one foot away from
the same candle.

Some packaging shows a silhouette of the beam. This shows whether the
beam is for long range (better for hiking/camping) or shorter range
(better for runners)?

The most popular brands are Petzl, Black Diamond, Princeton Tec,
Gerber, and Brinkman, but you may find others that are also very good.

Places to shop are REI, Runners Roost, Boulder Running Company, Bent
Gate, Army/Navy Surplus, Kmart, Wal-Mart, Target, online, and at
garage sales or Goodwill. Be careful when shopping at a discount
store. You can get some great deals on good lights. However, some of
the cheap, Asian knockoffs are poorly made and won't last that long.

++++++++++
SNOWSHOES
Run on snowshoes? Are you crazy? Yes, but that's beside the point.
Snowshoe running is an awesome workout (you can easily burn >1,000
calories/hour), very easy to learn, low impact, almost injury free,
perhaps the warmest winter sport, and a lot of fun.

Modern snowshoes are not like the old ones you might imagine. They are
fairly small and lightweight. You don't have to waddle like a duck.
You can run with little or no change in your stride, depending on the
terrain.

There are different types of shoes for different uses. Running
snowshoes are lighter in weight, have a narrower profile and a
different cleat system than hiking and backcountry shoes. Weight
matters. When it's on your foot, at the end of the pendulum, you
notice small weight differences than when it's around your waist,
Think of the difference in how it feels to run when your shoes are
dry, versus after they get wet and full of mud.

The other main functional difference is in how the shoes track on the
snow. With backcountry shoes, the toe pivots so that the back stays on
the snow, even if you are going up an extremely steep slope. With
running shoes, the toe pivots somewhat, but the tail comes off the
snow. For running, you don't want the shoe dragging and getting caught
on rocks and sticks. Different models work somewhat differently.
However, the similar effect is that snow gets kicked up from behind,
sort of a rooster tail effect.

Racing shoes typically weight 2-2.5 lbs/pair. Racing shoes are a
little more expensive, around $250. While that sounds like a lot, they
should last for years, and come with long, sometimes lifetime
warranties. Running shoes also work well for hiking if you are
primarily going to snowshoe on packed or well established trails.
Instead, you can get a light weight hiking or sport type shoe. They
are less expensive and heavier. They still work well for running. Many
races will have free loaners available. Check in advance.

Most companies make what they call women's snowshoes. These are
basically smaller and narrower. You don't have to be a woman to use them.

Some of the more popular brands you tend to see at races include:
Atlas, Crescent Moon (Boulder based), Northern Lites, Redfeather and
Tubbs. Look for deals online. You can rent snowshoes at nordic ski
areas and many places that also rent skis. Some running stores rent
racing shoes, including Runners Roost Lakewood.

Keeping your feet warm is important. Many racers wear a neoprene sock
(e.g., Seirus or Sealskinz brand), either alone or over a think sock
liner, or Gore-tex over-sock. The cheap version of this is a plastic
shopping bag (over socks and inside shoes) and duct tape. Trail
running gaiters (small, that just cover your ankle), keep snow out of
the shoe, to keep ice building up on the shoe collar and rubbing your
foot. Don't wear cotton socks. Use wool or synthetic socks that stay
warm and dry. Most people race in running shoes. Lightweight hiking
shoes, or even light Nordic boots work well. Snowshoeing is one of the
few areas where Gore-tex running shoes really help. If you wear
running shoes, some people put a winter cycling bootie, over the shoe,
to help keep their feet warm and dry.

For clothing, wear slick outer layers. You get wet from below, even
when it's sunny, from kicking up snow, the "rooster tail" effect.
DON'T WEAR FLEECE on the outside. It acts like Velcro to snow. You
will end up covered in snow, and carrying all that extra weight. For a
similar reason, zip up pockets and cover mesh. Nylon pants and jackets
work well. Dress in layers. If you are running, you will generate a
lot of body heat and sweat.

Where to go? Pull out a map. Look for a trail. You can snowshoe many
places you might hike or mtn bike in warmer months. After a decent
snowfall in town, try trails without too many rocks. I've had good
snowshoeing at Deer Creek and Green Mountain. A little further up,
there are some good places off of Squaw Pass Rd, Echo Lake, Jones
Pass/Butler Gulch, and Berthoud Pass (off of US40). For a longer
drive, head up to Rocky Mountain National Park. Also, most of the
nordic centers have designated snowshoe trails that are easy to
follow. There, you'll need to pay a trail fee.

I think it's more fun when you get off trail and play in the powder.
Trekking through powder can be extremely tough. It can take you 45 min
to do a mile, in hip deep powder, at max effort. Powder can be good
with a group of diverse abilities. The stronger runners/hikers can
take turns breaking the trail, while the others follow behind.

Poles are optional. They provide better stability and an upper body
workout. However, you then miss working your core and hip stabilizing
muscles. They can get in the way when you are running. They are not
allowed at most races, for safety reasons.

Snowshoe races range in distance from 2km to 20mi. Don't expect your
times to reflect what you do on roads. Distances are typically not
measured precisely. Snow conditions, hills, packed trail vs.
off-trail, etc., will all affect how much time the course will take.
I've seen 5k times under 20 minutes on a packed trail, and a winning
time up to an hour when through thick powder. Most races will have
lots of first time snowshoe racers and non-runners, and people who
will walk the whole way. Please don't be intimidated. Give it a try.
There are about 15-20 snowshoe races in Colorado through the season.

There are a couple of free demo days, Winter Trails. Also, we may have
a couple of group outings. Pay attention to the calendar in future DTR
messages.