After work daylight is gone for a while. DTR will continue through the
winter. Here are some quick tips for running through the winter.
Topics contained are:
Holiday runs and party
DTR winter run locations
Screwshoes and other ice devices
Snowshoeing
Lights, revised.

First, some shameless self-promotion.

I am giving two FREE talks on Winter Training. I will go into more
detail on these topics, clothing, training, indoor and outdoor
alternatives to running (i.e., cross-training), and anything else that
comes up in questions. The talks are:

11/9, 7pm, Two Feet to Go, 4340 Tennyson, Denver, 303-458-7700,
http://www.twofeettogo.com/

11/16, 7pm, Runners Roost Lakewood, 437 S. Wadsworth, Unit B (SW
corner at Alameda), 303-991-1851, http://www.runnersroostlakewood.com

Info is also at http://www.runuphillracing.com

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I am teaching a running form clinic next Sunday, 11/13, 8am.

It's 4 hours of drills, feedback, short runs (don't worry, we won't be
running continuously, most of the runs are only 10-15 seconds) and
fun. This is a variation of the Trail101 clinics, I've taught for 4
years, but with a focus on road running. We will work on hills. We may
hit some trails too, depending on interest, trail conditions and time.

Location will be on the west side. I will send out the exact location,
directions, etc., to those who register, towards the end of next week.

Pre-registration only. Registration and more information at
http://www.runuphillracing.com

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I am also available for coaching. This can include anything a "full
service" program, where I provide you with daily workouts; one-time
consulting; or something in between. More info at
http://www.runuphillracing.com. Or, call me at 303-870-0487.

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Are you interested in a DTR run on Thanksgiving? What time? Or, how
about a run that Friday instead? We would run during the day, since
most people are off work. Please let me know.

We are also looking for a location for our annual x-mas lights run and
party. The Thursday before x-mas, Dec 22 this year, we've done a very
easy, social run, looking at x-mas lights, then gone out to dinner.
The past few years, we've run around Wash Park, then gathered at Las
Margaritas, on South Gaylord. Although, last year, it was so cold,
that we skipped the run and just went to dinner.

If you know of a good location, preferably where there are lots of
well decorated homes, and a suitable (capable of seating a large,
sweaty group, 10-20) nearby restaurant, or would like to host a
potluck, let me know.

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DTR will run through the winter. Because of the cold and dark, the
nature of the runs change.

When it's cold outside, we may not be as sociable. When it's cold, we
may not stand around outside before and after the runs, or wait for
long at trail junctions. The turnout is usually lower. If you are new
to the trail, PLEASE read/bring the map and route instructions. I may
not spend a lot of time going over the route. Everyone is welcome to,
and I do want to encourage you to join us, but be prepared to run on
your own. We will wait after the run, in our cars.

We will run some of the less technical trails over the winter. We will
also run some flat and/or paved locations.

Winter trails include: Green Mtn, South Table Mtn, Bear Creek Lake
Park, South Valley Park (Littleton), Chimney Gulch, Matthews Winters,
Chatfield (if I can talk people into driving that far south).

Alternate winter runs:
Chief Hosa - mostly smooth, dirt road
Lookout Mtn - same start as Chimney Gulch, but stay on the road
Stonehouse – near Yale & Estes, Lakewood, almost the same route we ran
before the party a couple of weeks ago
Red Rocks – roads with nice hills, and very little traffic
Highline Canal – from deKoevend park/Goodsen Rec Center, or Hampden

For clothing, wool or synthetic, wicking fabrics are good. Cotton is
bad. Your body will generate a lot of heat to keep you warm.
Evaporation (i.e. of sweat) is chilling. Cotton holds moisture. If it
is next to your skin, it can make you very cold.

Several thin layers are better than one think layer. The sweat can
pass to the outer layers, then evaporate away from the skin. You can
take off thin layers as you warm up. Personally, I prefer vests to
jackets. It gives me wind protection, yet allows for better breathing
to keep from over heating or sweating. The zipper allows me to
regulate my temperature. You lose most of your body heat from your
head. Personally, I tend to get too hot wearing hats, so you're more
likely to see me with an ear band. My big issue is hand warmth, so I
often wear a mitten shell or thicker gloves.

Bring a change of clothes (non work) for after the run. Once you stop
running, and your body stops generating heat, you can get very cold,
very quickly. You'll want to put on some warm, dry clothes promptly.
It's a good idea to bring a change of clothes during the warmer months
too.

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Running on ice is possible, and can even be good for you. Why? If you
can stay light and quick on your feet, you can deftly handle most
slick spots. Being light and quick is a more efficient running style.
So, running on ice can make you more efficient on dry ground.

However, there are other ways. You can buy devices that slip over your
shoes, and have metal traction devices. Some of the brands are YakTrax
STABILicers, GripOns, Ice Joggers and Get a Grip. They're nice in that
you can easily slip them on or off as needed. I haven't tried them. I
know that the YakTrax can slip off. I saw two of them in the snow, at
the Mt. Taylor race, last Feb.

I use screwshoes. They're cheap and easy to make. Put some sheet metal
screws in the bottom of your shoes, point up. That's right. It's the
head that grips the ice. You shouldn't feel the point. Put a few at
the back and outside of the heel, and across the ball of the foot, the
places where you land and push off. You don't need any under the
middle of the foot or toe. Use #6 or #8 hex head screws, ¼", 3/8", or
½". You can get them for about 8 cents ea at an Ace Hardware. They
insert quickly with a socket screwdriver. I use 3/8" in front, and ½"
in the heel. You can use ¼" if you're using a thin sole shoe, but buy
a few extra because they are more likely to come out. I try to put
them in the raised parts of the outsole.

It does not ruin your shoes. The sole will seal around the hole when
you take them out. I usually use an older pair of trail shoes. You do
have to be careful about puncturing gel/air pockets with Asics, Nikes,
etc.

Advantage of screwshoes is that they're very cheap, <$1/shoe. The
disadvantage is that they don't slip on and off easily. I usually
dedicate a pair of shoes to them all winter. They make fun little
sparks when running over rocks. J

For more details and pictures, go to
http://www.skyrunner.com/screwshoe.htm


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Run on snowshoes? Are you crazy? Yes, but that's besides the point.
Snowshoe running is an awesome workout (you can easily get over >1,000
calories/hour), very easy to learn, almost injury free, and a lot of fun.

Modern snowshoes are not like the old ones you might imagine. They are
fairly small and lightweight. You don't have to waddle like a duck.
You can run with little or now change in your stride, or even at all,
depending on the terrain.

There are three basic types and purposes of snowshoeing:
hiking/back-country, general purpose, running/fitness. Back-country
shoes are big, usually with rounded tails, and with aggressive claws.
The bigger platform provides better stability when trekking off trail,
and carrying a big pack, like for a hut trip. General purpose
snowshoes aren't as big, heavy and bulky as back-country shoes, but
aren't as light as running shoes either.

Running shoes are lightweight, and have a narrower profile. Weight
matters more when it's on your foot, at the end of the pendulum,
rather than around your weight. Think of the difference in how it
feels when your shoes are dry, then after you step in thick mud an
they're wet and heavy. Racing shoes typically weight ~2.5 lbs/pair. If
you are thinking of racing, you should strongly consider a racing
shoe. These are also fine if you are primarily going to snowshoe on
packed or well established trails.

Racing shoes are a little more expensive, around $250. While that
sounds like a lot, they should last for years, and many come with long
warranties. Think of how much money you spend on running shoes over a
few years. You can get some good deals and the links below.

Some of the models to look for are:
Redfeather Race or Women's Pace (21" or 25")
Atlas Dual Trac
Tubbs Catalyst
Crescent Moon Gold 12
Northern Lites Elite

Most racing shoes are made out of aluminum. You can get fancy, and
spend a lot of money, by going higher tech. There are some made out of
titanium and carbon fiber.

A good general purpose shoe is the Redfeather Trek; older model names
are Performance or Sport. These shoes are a bit heavier and cheaper
than racing shoes. However, they area a little sturdier for hiking on
thin pack snow and over some rocks. Any snowshoe should be able to
withstand some rocks, even racing models.

One size fits most. You don't need to fit snowshoes to your shoe size.
The bindings will fit most shoes. Weight matters some. Don't put too
much emphasis on manufacturers' guidelines for weight and size. They
are mainly based on east coast snow, and not for running. CO snow is
typically light and airy. You are going to sink in no matter what you
wear. Getting a bigger shoe often means that you have that much more
snow to lift. Tom Sobal, who's won more snowshoe races than anyone, is
over 6' tall, and probably close to 200lbs., and races in 8" x 25"
shoes. Save the bigger shoes for hiking off trail with a pack.

You can shop and buy snowshoes locally and get good service/sdvice at
the big name outdoor stores (REI, EMS), as well as some great
independents (Mountain Miser in Englewood, Bent Gate in Golden,
Neptune Mountaineering in Golden). Some of the local running stores
carry snowshoes (Runners Roost, Boulder Running Company). The big box
stores (Garts, Dicks) should carry them too, but I doubt that you'd
get someone who's ever been on snowshoes.

You can also get some good deals online. Sierra Trading Post has good
deals on Redfeathers now.
http://www.SierraTradingPost.com
http://www.esnowshoes.com

Many of the above stores also rent snowshoes. You can also rent
snowshoes at the places that rent downhill skis.

Clothing: Start with what I wrote above, about layering. Snowshoeing
is the warmest winter sport. You can get warmer and sweat more than
running on the hottest day in July. Layering and wicking are
important. Slick outer layers are also important. Lightweight nylon
pants and jacket will protect you from wind chill, and keep the snow
off of you. You get wet from below, kicking up snow as you go.

Don't wear fleece. It acts like Velcro to snow. Zip outer pockets and
put open mesh or bottle holders under a jacket, to keep from carrying
extra snow as you run.

Keeping your feet warm can be a bit of a challenge. Many people wear
running shoes (mine bolted directly to the shoe for racing). I use a
neoprene sock alone, or over a thin Smartwool sock. SealSkinz and
Seirus make these. Some people wear a plastic supermarket bag over
their socks. I also use trail gaitors (smaller and lighter than ski
gaitors) to keep snow out of the shoe. I will use a lightweight,
insulated, waterproof boot when hiking or playing in deep powder.
Nordic ski boots work well too. You don't want to wear a hard shell
boot. Allowing the foot to flex keeps the blood pumping through the
foot, and helps keep them warm.

Where to go: Pull out a map. Look for a trail. You can snowshoe most
places you might hike or mtn bike in warmer months. After a decent
snowfall in town, try trails without too many rocks. I've had good
snowshoeing at Deer Creek and Green Mountain. A little further up,
there are some good places off of Squaw Pass Rd. Echo Lake, the base
of the road to Mt. Evans, is one of my favorites, and not that far.
The trees hold snow (and protect from the wind), so it's good early
and late season. Henderson Mine and Berthoud Pass, off of US40, are
good. For a longer drive, head up to Rocky Mountain National Park.
Most of the nordic centers have designated snowshoe trails that are
easy to follow. I just don't think that you need to pay a trail fee to
snowshoe.

I think it's more fun when you spend some of the time off trail. Get
out in the powder and play. Trekking through powder can be extremely
tough. It can take you 45 min to do a mile, in hip deep powder, at max
effort. You don't need to do that. Powder can be good with a group of
diverse abilities. The stronger runners/hikers can take turns breaking
the trail, while the others follow behind.

There are many races to choose from in Colorado. From January into
March, you may have 3 or 4 races to choose from every weekend. There
are even a couple at night. Don't be intimidated. There are beginners,
who will walk the whole way, at almost every race. Many races offer
free loaners.

Don't pay too much attention to the race distance, or worry about your
time. First of all, distances are approximate (don't expect a
certified course). Terrain and snow conditions will largely dictate
the speeds. At the Salomon series races, for example, they're all on
hard packed trails, and the winning times might b e sub-20 for a 5k,
and low 40s for a 10k. On the other extreme, there's a race like the
Off-Track, Off-Beat 10k (I hope it happens this year), which is all
off trail, and the leaders have to break trail through powder, where
the winning time may be 1:40.

Check the DTR messages, and Rocky Mountain Sports magazine, for race
and clinic listings.

I plan to lead one or two free outings over the winter. Check the DTR
messages for details.

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Here's a repeat of the previous posting about lights, with a couple of
changes.

Choosing a light is about finding the right combination of brightness,
weight, cost and comfort.

The first choice is hand vs. headlight. Both have their advantages and
disadvantages.

Many runners seem to prefer headlights. Headlights leave your hands
free, and the light shines where you look. Disadvantages are that when
it's wet or very cold, the light reflects off the rain/snow, or mist
from your breath, which can make it hard to see. Even the best fitting
light will bounce a little. The brighter lights will have a noticeable
batter pack, which can make a comfortable fit can be a little
challenging. Some batteries are built into the light unit, in front.
This can extend the center of gravity away from the head, adding to
the bounce. A battery pack in the back of the head reduces the bounce,
but the feel takes getting used to. Some have the batteries in a
separate pouch that you can string through your jacket, and keep in a
pocket or pack. This is a little more complicated, but it gives you
more power, gets the battery weight off your head, and keeping the
battery warm (pocket of pack) extends the life. You also have to turn
your head/light down when turning to talk to other runners, or with
oncoming runners/riders.

Hand lights generally give you more bang for the buck. You can get
brighter lights for the money. It's often more comfortable to carry a
light in your hand vs. your head. However, the light moves with your
arm swing. You can adjust to this, but it does take some practice.

Sometimes I will use one of each. The headlight gives me better focus
on what's ahead. I use the handlight can bring out extra detail up
close, especially in technical terrain.

Light technology has changed in recent years. The traditional
trade-offs between brightness and battery weight has changed.
Incandescent bulbs are passe'.

LED bulbs give you a decent mix of brightness and weight. LEDs have
the advantage of very slow battery drain, and the bulbs virtually
never burning out. The newer "Super Bright" or 1watt LED bulbs are
much brighter than the older LEDs (like the Petzl Tikka). LED lights
are softer than xenon or halogen. Some lights come with colored
filters that can make night vision even better.

Xenon, Halogen and similar bulbs are the brighter. They do burn
through batteries much quicker and can be glary.

Several models have multiple bulb systems. They'll have both a xenon
or halogen bulb, for brightness, along with one or several LEDs, for
longer battery life. You can switch back and forth as the conditions
dictate, and always have the LEDs as a backup if the batteries start
to wane. These combination lights offer the best of both worlds.

How much brightness you should get depends on what type of running you
do, and the quality of your night vision. Trail running, as opposed to
road running, requires brighter lighting to bring out the varied
terrain. How well you can see largely dictates how hard (hard is
relative to your own ability) you can run on trails. I have poor depth
perception at night, and like to be able to run hard, so I like to run
with as brightest a light as reasonable. Since I have a very bright
light for mountain biking at night (Niterider HID), I often use that
for trail running. The batter pack is heavy, but that just makes for a
better workout. It's too heavy to use in a race. HID lights are
expensive, $250-$500.

Another option is a bike commuting light. The Cateye EL300, 400 or 500
are great values and great combination of brightness and weight. You
can hold it in your hand, or make a simple hand strap with duct tape.
I can show you what I've done at an upcoming run.

I'm not going to suggest specific models. You have to find what's best
for you. Some of the major brands to look for are Princeton Tec, Black
Diamond, Petzl, Brinkman and Gerber. You can find lights at any
outdoor, as well as running store, as well as online. In addition to
REI or EMS, consider some of the local stores:
Bent Gate in Golden
Mountain Miser in Englewood
Wilderness Exchange in Denver, across from REI. A discount outlet.
Also online.
Army/Navy Surplus in Englewood, Aurora and Arvada

You can also get some great deals online including:
www.SierraTradingPost.com – discount outlet based in Cheyenne
www.Ebay.com
www.Amazon.com
www.Froogle.com

Several people have mentioned good deals at WalMart. If you can find a
name brand (see above) there, that may be a way to go. However, be
careful about buying a very cheap, knock off.