Update. Did another 20/20 conversion today. I used the original RX
forks and milled out the back of the fork.

Sporting a a 20 x 1.125 (1-1/8") (28-406) Continental Grand Prix tire.

Worked like a champ.

I think it may be the only tire that will fit. Maybe some Dahon tires
may work?

Shortened the cranks a bit and added a front disc brake and a rear
too. So it now has dual disk brakes.

Will post pics soon....

-JK


--- In BikeE@yahoogroups.com, "transportcycling"
<transportcycling@...> wrote:
>
> Their is the official way to remove the headset, and the garage
> homebrew style.
>
> I usually grab a 1- 1/8" solid bar of steel and catch the inner lip
> and beat it out with a hammer.
>
> You can find some reasonably priced headtube reducers. Basically,
> they will allow you to go from 1-1/4" down to ~1-1/8". You will need
> a new thread-less 1-1/8" headset.
>
> Like ones seen here:
> http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=6576
>
> You can score these on Ebay for like $15.
> (These still are made because of older Cannondales and such....)
>
> I usually make my own headset press using a 1/2"~3/4" threaded rod a
> series of washers and a couple of wing nuts at each end. A mallet and
> anvil also works but may mar the cups.
>
> For forks I have found this link:
> http://www.calhouncycle.com/productcart/pc/viewCat_h.asp?idCategory=136
>
> Great forks at a great price.
> The only problem is most Bike E's require a 9" long steer tube. (Very
> Rare!)
>
> ANOTHER FIX:
>
> I have converted a few Bike E's to dual 20/20 style. In the past I
> have just left in the original headset and worked around an off the
> shelf 1-1/8" fork w/ an ample amount of rake.
>
> I basically took a slip fit 1-1/4" cro-mo tube that was 9" long and
> slipped it over the steer tube of the shorter 1-1/8" fork. (remove
> fork race crown if need be.)
>
> Then carefully on the drill press drill 4 holes towards the center of
> the new 1-1/4" OD x 9" long steer tube you just mounted on the fork.
> (Two horizontal holes facing north to south, two horizontal holes
> facing east to west.)(This ensures you hit all the normal bike
> steering stress points and then some.)
>
> Then beat on the original Bike E bearing fork crown race. (Use the one
> off the original fork and ad onto your new fork.)
>
> I basically plugged the holes with a slip fit rod made of steel and
> cut it slightly shorter to be just less then flush with the new tube
> wall. With a welder filled in the holes and grinded/ sanded flat 'n
> flush.
>
> *NOTE -If you do not have access to a welder you can try JB weld
> epoxy, or possibly even soft, solid, long, 1/4" OD flat head aluminum
> rivets and beat them flat at one end. (If you use rivets you may need
> to put the bearings over the rivets first before beating for clearance
> issues in the headset.)
>
> Order a new 1-1/4" star nut flange or try to remove the old one and
> install in your new fork. I suggest trying to find a new star nut
> flange as reusing them is not sound advice.
>
>
> MY LATEST FIX:
>
> Bike E RX. The fork allows enough clearance for a slim folding bike/
> recumbent front rim.
>
> A will use an ISO Bead diameter 406 wheel/rim & 1.25 IRC tire.
>
> I will then put the forks angled in a Bridgeport mill. If you look
> ever so closely, the front of the fork has been milled out already
> from Bike E with a 1-1/4"~1/12" end mill. Most likely to fit the
> V-brakes with fenders?
>
> I plan to start out using a 1" end mill and see if I can go up to a
> 1-1/4" end mill with out disturbing the weld in the rear of the fork.
>
> This should fit a nicely built, slim custom wheel and tire in the
> 20"/406 x 1" wide flavor. The 16" brake mounts for V brakes will be
> useless at this time so you will have to build a special wheel using a
> disc brake hub.
>
> Then I have a custom shorter crank to ensure my foot does not hit the
> front wheel. (I hate that)
>
> Hope that helps and will post pics soon,
>
> Cheers,
> -JK
>