--- On Sun, 11/22/09, Forbes Black <diarmaede@...> wrote:
From: Forbes Black <diarmaede@...> Subject: Re: [Bicycle_Restoration] western flyer london flyer To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 22, 2009, 1:02 PM
Photos! We want photos! Especially so we can see the before and after states when you get it restored!
Cheers,
- Forbes Black, Santa Clarita, CA Cycloculture - A Journal for Real World Cyclists http://cycloculture .com/
--- On Sat, 11/21/09, chris m <xcongamanx@yahoo. com> wrote:
From: chris m <xcongamanx@yahoo. com> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] western flyer london flyer To: Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com Date: Saturday, November 21, 2009, 10:20 PM
I've got a Western Flyer London Flyer that needs restored $30.00. nice english style 3speed w/ baskets located in Quincy,Il
Photos! We want photos! Especially so we can see the before and after states when you get it restored!
Cheers,
- Forbes Black, Santa Clarita, CA
Cycloculture - A Journal for Real World Cyclists
http://cycloculture.com/
--- On Sat, 11/21/09, chris m <xcongamanx@...> wrote:
From: chris m <xcongamanx@...> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] western flyer london flyer To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, November 21, 2009, 10:20 PM
I've got a Western Flyer London Flyer that needs restored $30.00. nice english style 3speed w/ baskets located in Quincy,Il
No problem, I’m mostly into the aero TT bikes from the same
time period, and they all have odd top mount shifters.
It’s likely that the old one just needs new plastic bits, or
something like that, so don’t discard it to the trash. If nothing else,
you can ebay the shifters for a bit. Maybe even some decent money
if they’re one of the uncommon types. I’ve seen 600
levers on what looked like an AX body made for the teardrop shape
tubes, and that might have had AX type internals, which are a bit
different. And if they made a shifter like that, then they also
would have made one for round tubes. Weird stuff, and some of those
shifters aren’t really common.
Steve
From:
Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of will@... Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 01:34 PM To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Bicycle_Restoration] Center mount, downtown shifter boss?
Steve,
Thanks for the comments. I'll have to get a better look at the top-mount,
downtown bolt-on shifter boss (wow, that's a mouth full) when I bring the bike
in.
To clarify: the mount won't take modern "standard" down tube
shifters. At first glance it looks like it would (just un-screw the old
friction shifters, screw on any newer shifter) but the inner stops are all
wrong, as is the threading.
There are a lot of these bikes out there - particularly the Asian built
mid-level bikes. If some fabricator had the inclination he could probably
make a little side business building and selling upgraded mounts.
I think we're going to have to unbolt and discard it, and go with a clamp-on
solution. Hopefully it won't look too shabby.
Steve Birmingham wrote:
The black filled “arabesque” is 600, the
gold that looks more arrow like is 105.
Many of the topmount shifters used different mounts on
the frame, and some won’t cross over.
The bike I have that takes a Shimano topmount
fortunately uses a waterbottle mount,
so any shifter will probably attach to it.
Also good is that they make mounts for the barrel
adjusters that mount to shimano shift lever mounts,
and these might mount to the original block, maybe
with a bit of modification.
If you’ve got a little time, and can send a pic
of the mount that’s under the shifter mounting block I might be able to
make you something
I'm tunning up a friend's bike an early 80s era Miyata. It has - if
memory serves me correctly - a full Shimano Arabesque group, which was
sort of the 105 of the day if I'm not mistaken. It's the friction
system with the fancy scrollwork.
Anyway, the friction shifters are just worn out, they don't hold a
tune. I'd like to upgrade her to an index system, but the shifter boss
is a problem. It's one of those center mount bosses. You can view a
picture of what I'm talking about here:
The problem is that the central mount doesn't have standard downtube
shifter bosses - it only appears to work with the Shimano friction shifters.
Forgetting for a moment that some people prefer friction, has anyone
added modern indexed shifters to a frame like this using the existing
boss? I know I can go with a clamp, but I'd rather figure something out
to keep it as OEM looking as possible - the bike's owner is a stickler.
Thanks for the comments. I'll have to get a better look at the
top-mount, downtown bolt-on shifter boss (wow, that's a mouth full)
when I bring the bike in.
To clarify: the mount won't take modern "standard" down tube shifters.
At first glance it looks like it would (just un-screw the old friction
shifters, screw on any newer shifter) but the inner stops are all
wrong, as is the threading.
There are a lot of these bikes out there - particularly the Asian built
mid-level bikes. If some fabricator had the inclination he could
probably make a little side business building and selling upgraded
mounts.
I think we're going to have to unbolt and discard it, and go with a
clamp-on solution. Hopefully it won't look too shabby.
Steve Birmingham wrote:
The black filled “arabesque” is 600,
the gold that
looks more arrow like is 105.
Many of the topmount shifters used
different mounts on the frame,
and some won’t cross over.
The bike I have that takes a Shimano
topmount fortunately uses a
waterbottle mount,
so any shifter will probably attach
to it.
Also good is that they make mounts
for the barrel adjusters that
mount to shimano shift lever mounts,
and these might mount to the
original block, maybe with a bit of
modification.
If you’ve got a little time, and can
send a pic of the mount
that’s under the shifter mounting block I might be able to make you
something
I'm tunning up a friend's bike an early 80s era Miyata. It has - if
memory serves me correctly - a full Shimano Arabesque group, which was
sort of the 105 of the day if I'm not mistaken. It's the friction
system with the fancy scrollwork.
Anyway, the friction shifters are just worn out, they don't hold a
tune. I'd like to upgrade her to an index system, but the shifter boss
is a problem. It's one of those center mount bosses. You can view a
picture of what I'm talking about here:
The problem is that the central mount doesn't have standard downtube
shifter bosses - it only appears to work with the Shimano friction
shifters.
Forgetting for a moment that some people prefer friction, has anyone
added modern indexed shifters to a frame like this using the existing
boss? I know I can go with a clamp, but I'd rather figure something out
to keep it as OEM looking as possible - the bike's owner is a stickler.
Thanks for any advice.
Regards,
Will
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.73/2513 - Release Date: 11/19/09 07:51:00
I recently picked up an old JC Higgins girls cruiser with a gas tank. I got
too many projects now so I'm just going to flip her.Her fenders and stuff still
look ok. She could be restored(the gas tank has a horn the bike has some rust,
butcould be a decent first excursion into bike restoration, I want $30.00 for
the bike and I will throw in 2 new whitewalls for another $30.00. I live in
Quincy Il. if you are looking to pickup or i can give you a local bike shop to
do shipping. my cel is 217-316-9369.
The black filled “arabesque” is 600, the gold that
looks more arrow like is 105.
Many of the topmount shifters used different mounts on the frame,
and some won’t cross over.
The bike I have that takes a Shimano topmount fortunately uses a
waterbottle mount,
so any shifter will probably attach to it.
Also good is that they make mounts for the barrel adjusters that
mount to shimano shift lever mounts,
and these might mount to the original block, maybe with a bit of
modification.
If you’ve got a little time, and can send a pic of the mount
that’s under the shifter mounting block I might be able to make you
something
a bit slicker.
Steve B
From:
Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of will@... Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 07:36 PM To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Center mount, downtown shifter boss?
Hello everyone,
I'm tunning up a friend's bike an early 80s era Miyata. It has - if
memory serves me correctly - a full Shimano Arabesque group, which was
sort of the 105 of the day if I'm not mistaken. It's the friction
system with the fancy scrollwork.
Anyway, the friction shifters are just worn out, they don't hold a
tune. I'd like to upgrade her to an index system, but the shifter boss
is a problem. It's one of those center mount bosses. You can view a
picture of what I'm talking about here:
The problem is that the central mount doesn't have standard downtube
shifter bosses - it only appears to work with the Shimano friction shifters.
Forgetting for a moment that some people prefer friction, has anyone
added modern indexed shifters to a frame like this using the existing
boss? I know I can go with a clamp, but I'd rather figure something out
to keep it as OEM looking as possible - the bike's owner is a stickler.
Hello everyone,
I'm tunning up a friend's bike an early 80s era Miyata. It has - if
memory serves me correctly - a full Shimano Arabesque group, which was
sort of the 105 of the day if I'm not mistaken. It's the friction
system with the fancy scrollwork.
Anyway, the friction shifters are just worn out, they don't hold a
tune. I'd like to upgrade her to an index system, but the shifter boss
is a problem. It's one of those center mount bosses. You can view a
picture of what I'm talking about here:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/top%20mount%20downtube/firstflightbikes/Parts\
/shift194.jpg
This guy is selling a Suntour version:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Suntour-Milax-Friction-Top-Mount-Downtube-Shfters-New_W0QQit\
emZ360196985236QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091010?IMSfp=TL091010153003r2191
The problem is that the central mount doesn't have standard downtube
shifter bosses - it only appears to work with the Shimano friction shifters.
Forgetting for a moment that some people prefer friction, has anyone
added modern indexed shifters to a frame like this using the existing
boss? I know I can go with a clamp, but I'd rather figure something out
to keep it as OEM looking as possible - the bike's owner is a stickler.
Thanks for any advice.
Regards,
Will
Hi Gang,
This is a bit OT, but Murray is a certified bike wrench who likes to build up
old lugged frames as fixies, so maybe it's okay.
In any case, I just interview Ian Murray who is a high-profile triathlete and
coach. He is married to the famous movie star, Alexandra Paul. I expected...
well I don't know what I expected, but it certainly wasn't the down-to-earth,
honest, funny answers he gave me about being a racer who is firmly dedicated to
using bicycles for transportation. If you are interested, check out the article
here:
http://cycloculture.blogspot.com/2009/11/ian-murray-real-world-racer.html
Cheers,
Forbes
The Schwinn is different. If you have an older one, made in Chicago, then it's
good. The advantage to that is the cups and everything will be the same on all
the Chicago ones, so an old Varsity, even with a smaller or larger frame will
have interchangeable parts with yours. The chrome is good quality also, so even
if you find a rusty old varsity with no wheels, the chrome may shine up like
new. The best place would be yard sales and thrift stores, or scrap yards. As
for other headsets fitting, I think Schwinn used a different thread spacing. Old
suburbans, speedsters and other old Schwinns may have the same parts also, as
long as they are the Chicago models. I had thought about a chainguard on my
Varsity, but the frame didn't come with a front mount like the other Schwinns.
On a side note, I went with 26 x 2.125 tires on the Varsity front forks with
room to spare, but there isn't quite enough room on the rear, but the old
Schwinn 26 x 2 x 1 3/4 barely fit back there. 26 x 1.75 would be a good size if
you wanted your tires matching.
You just can't beat a good ol' Varsity...I ride a singlespeed-ed one, a '79. I have nice long cranks (175), Mary bars on a long-reach MTB type stem, mini-clips on 'rat-trap' pedals, front brake only, and a cushy MTB saddle, making it a really comfy town-bike. All I need now are some good fenders and a rain cape, and I'll be set. Oh, and add a chainguard. At some point, I'll tear it all down again and blast off the rattle-can paint job, and get it powdercoated. I'd like to have the frame & fork one color, and the fenders, stem, and chainguard a contrasting color...or maybe I'd just go the monochrome route. When I converted it to SS, I ground off all the cable guides and the kickstand mount (I put a Greenfield kickstand on it), but like a dummy, I took off the dang chainguard tab, too. Oh, well....that's what they make 'p-clips' for, I guess.
Which brings me to this question...is there some place I can get original-equipment parts for the Varsity, such as headsets and perhaps a new Schwinn Chicago headbadge? Will any 1" headset work on it?
Dave Hughes
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "BarryM" <barrymay@...> To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Re: overloaded Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:22:54 -0000
Yes, I've got a dozen or so hanging from hooks and 5 frames up in the rafters. Coffee cans with parts all over and a big stack of fenders.
For this winter season, I wanted to have a nice heavy cruiser that I could just ride without any maintenance problems, because I need to drop another 20 or 30 lbs. Luckily I came across a 71 Varsity in good shape and I plan on adding a 2 speed hub and upright bars to make a comfort bike.
--- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com, "chris m" <xcongamanx@...> wrote: > > Does any body else here get overloaded with good bike projects and not have the room or time for them.(retorical)What is on your winter wish list? >
Yes, I've got a dozen or so hanging from hooks and 5 frames up in the rafters.
Coffee cans with parts all over and a big stack of fenders.
For this winter season, I wanted to have a nice heavy cruiser that I could just
ride without any maintenance problems, because I need to drop another 20 or 30
lbs. Luckily I came across a 71 Varsity in good shape and I plan on adding a 2
speed hub and upright bars to make a comfort bike.
--- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com, "chris m" <xcongamanx@...> wrote:
>
> Does any body else here get overloaded with good bike projects and not
have the room or time for them.(retorical)What is on your winter wish list?
>
On flat terrain, I'd recommend singlespeeding it. For one thing, you won't need to buy nearly as many parts (no derailleurs, no shifters). I live in a fairly hilly area, and I ride singlespeed. And I'm a big-ish guy, too, at 6', 230#. Maintenance is way simpler on a single speed bike, too. I simply found a drive ratio that I can live with on the moderate hills, and still give me a decent cruising speed on the flats. Turns out that's 44 teeth on the front, and 18 teeth on the BMX freewheel on the rear wheel. My bike is an old Schwinn Varsity frame with one-piece crank. I just put a 1/8" wide chainwheel on the crank, and 1/8" freewheel & chain. I just kept one brake, on the front. Really simple bike, very functional.
Is the crank a one-piece, or 3-piece, or...? Maybe you could put some photos up so we can see whatcha got there? Then we could probably make more intelligent recommendations for parts, etc.
Dave Hughes Austin, Texas
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "pillsmofo" <pillsoad@...> To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] RE: Restoration Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:38:05 -0000
I'm going to restore this bike for use to and from campus at school. So it will be a road bike, mostly for commuting. The frame had no name on it, i do know it's a Korean frame. I don't know if this information affects what kind of bike i should be building.
I'm a complete novice. How many speeds should i make the bike? I'm a heavier set guy, i don't know if that should affect my decision. I'll probably ride this bike at the most 20 miles at a time on fairly flat terrain.
Any more tips? This group has been a lot of help so far, thank you.
I'm going to restore this bike for use to and from campus at school. So it will
be a road bike, mostly for commuting. The frame had no name on it, i do know
it's a Korean frame. I don't know if this information affects what kind of bike
i should be building.
I'm a complete novice. How many speeds should i make the bike? I'm a heavier
set guy, i don't know if that should affect my decision. I'll probably ride
this bike at the most 20 miles at a time on fairly flat terrain.
Any more tips? This group has been a lot of help so far, thank you.
Kris
Don't forget to spray from a far enough distance. You want a fine mist coverage a little at a time. I've seen so many inner city spray paint jobs it makes me cringe. Sorry.
Maybe some hot lamps to bake the paint on. Par bulbs from the hardware should do the trick.
Decide what type of crankset you want to start with or match the one that was on the bike. It's up to you. And before that I guess the bottom bracket would actually be first. Good luck --- On Mon, 11/16/09, Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com <Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
From: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com <Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Digest Number 1689 To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 8:02 AM
I've always wanted to restore a bike. I found a cool old bike on the side of the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and readied it to spray paint it.
I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it, but i want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips? Recommendations?
If it was sold through a bike shop, it would be of higher quality. depending on what it is or what parts are on it. the good stuff lasts a long time and they can be cleaned and polished up. Pay most atteion to the drive train and brakes of course. Is it a multispeed bike?
The best results i have had fron Spray paint are the rustoleum Appliance enamels. Not much choice in colors, but sets up pretty hard.
Good luck Gary
----- Original Message ----- From: pillsmofo To: Bicycle_Restoration @yahoogroups. com Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 12:09 AM Subject: [Bicycle_Restoratio n] First Restoration.
Hey,
I've always wanted to restore a
bike. I found a cool old bike on the side of the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and readied it to spray paint it.
I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it, but i want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips? Recommendations?
as anyone here can tell ya, restorations can get expensive.
Sheldon Browns site (simply google and type in sheldon brown or harris
cyclery)is a basic language encyclopedia of 'how to'.
Did you happen to see a name on the bike before you sanded down the finish?
Reason i ask is: If the bike is a big box product, you're not gonna want to
spend a ton of cash on it (and stuff like wheels and cranks and derailleurs CAN
get expensive)
Is it a one piece crank or 3 piece crank (Sheldons site will explain)
Have you stripped the bike down to just the frame and fork?
If so, how much does it weigh (weigh yourself then weigh yourself holding the
frame and fork)
A heavy frame is a heavy frame is a...you get the idea.
You can lighten the wheels or the crank or the handlebars etc. but you're still
gonna have a pretty heavy bike.
Which brings me to my last question.
What's the intended use?
Single speeds are in fashion these days and if you simply need a townie bike you
don't have to worry about having stuff ripped off of, that might be the way to
go.
Rich Mc.
Personally, I’d start with The headset, then wheels and
tires. That makes it a rolling bike that you can move around easily.
Having it rolling and sitting level makes setting the adjustments
of the other parts easier
The rest don’t have to be done in any particular order. My
preference after headset and wheels is
Freewheel- usually as part of the wheels
Bottom bracket
cranks
(combined if it’s one piece cranks)
deraillers – If any
brakes
bars and stem
brake levers
seatpost with seat if possible.
shifters (Or if stem or handlebar mount shifters done with the
stem or bars)
brake cables
shift cables
chain
grips/ bar tape
seat
pedals
But you do want to paint it before adding any parts.
The part choices are likely dependent on your budget and what sort
of bike it is. If the parts are expensive or hard to find,
you may have to do them in the order you find them, Sometimes
getting a deal and waiting till some related part is available.
Like if you get a deal on a handlebar, but haven’t bought a
stem yet.
The above is just my preference, Because I’m a bit err….
Thrifty? I rarely get it done in exactly that order. Most of the order is
really interchangeable,
and it’s mostly based on ease of handling the bike in the
long waits between parts.
What sort of bike is it?
Steve
From:
Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pillsmofo Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:52 AM To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] Re: First Restoration.
The bike was pretty beat up, i really wanted to
just update all the parts. I don't know which parts to buy first. Pedals?
Handle Bars? I want to be able to buy a part and put it on as i get it, where
do i start?
--- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com,
"gary" <gkk1011@...> wrote:
>
> If it was sold through a bike shop, it would be of higher quality.
depending on what it is or what parts are on it. the good stuff lasts a long
time and they can be cleaned and polished up. Pay most atteion to the drive
train and brakes of course. Is it a multispeed bike?
>
> The best results i have had fron Spray paint are the rustoleum Appliance
enamels. Not much choice in colors, but sets up pretty hard.
>
> Good luck
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: pillsmofo
> To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 12:09 AM
> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] First Restoration.
>
>
>
> Hey,
>
> I've always wanted to restore a bike. I found a cool old bike on the side
of the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and
readied it to spray paint it.
>
> I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it,
but i want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips?
Recommendations?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! -- http://www.usfamily.net/mkt-freepromo.html
---
>
The bike was pretty beat up, i really wanted to just update all the parts. I
don't know which parts to buy first. Pedals? Handle Bars? I want to be able to
buy a part and put it on as i get it, where do i start?
--- In Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com, "gary" <gkk1011@...> wrote:
>
> If it was sold through a bike shop, it would be of higher quality. depending
on what it is or what parts are on it. the good stuff lasts a long time and
they can be cleaned and polished up. Pay most atteion to the drive train and
brakes of course. Is it a multispeed bike?
>
> The best results i have had fron Spray paint are the rustoleum Appliance
enamels. Not much choice in colors, but sets up pretty hard.
>
> Good luck
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: pillsmofo
> To: Bicycle_Restoration@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 12:09 AM
> Subject: [Bicycle_Restoration] First Restoration.
>
>
>
> Hey,
>
> I've always wanted to restore a bike. I found a cool old bike on the side of
the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and readied
it to spray paint it.
>
> I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it, but
i want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips? Recommendations?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! --
http://www.usfamily.net/mkt-freepromo.html ---
>
If it was sold through a bike shop, it would be of higher quality. depending on what it is or what parts are on it. the good stuff lasts a long time and they can be cleaned and polished up. Pay most atteion to the drive train and brakes of course. Is it a multispeed bike?
The best results i have had fron Spray paint are the rustoleum Appliance enamels. Not much choice in colors, but sets up pretty hard.
I've always wanted to restore a bike. I found a cool old bike on the side of the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and readied it to spray paint it.
I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it, but i want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips? Recommendations?
Hey,
I've always wanted to restore a bike. I found a cool old bike on the side of
the street, i've stripped it down to just the frame, i've sanded it and readied
it to spray paint it.
I'm clueless as to what to do next? I want to get all new parts for it, but i
want to buy and install them in a logical order. Any tips? Recommendations?
Thanks
Gary, nickle plating is about the easiest plating the average person can do.
Unless you're plating a full frame, there are kits that let you brush plate the
nickle. Caswell plating online has kits that let you zinc, copper and
nickle--well under a hundred bucks.
If you find the right frame/bike, buy it Then work the old plating down and redo
it yourself. It's not very difficult.
I been looking for a top break Iver Johnson for my collection for years. Just can't find on with the nickle plating good enough.i included a pic, Love the cycle works on top! Kind of interest how Bikes and guns at the turn of the century were so close connected. And now how the Cycling community is pretty anti guns. Maybe thats just my take (wouldn't be the first time i missed the boat on something). I heard that Fausto loved to shoot trap by the way!