1. I'm too short to do a triple on the Baron without dropping the chain.  I'm 5'10" and mostly torso.  If you are in a similar situation you may consider item #2.  The issue is the crankset to front idler distance.  In the future I hope an upgrade to a Velocraft low-profile fork will allow droppage without shifting issues.
   
2. A compact double gives you almost the same gear range (thank you Sheldon Brown).  When combined with an 11-32 on the rear I got the mountain-climbing low end (for riding up Bogus Basin road here in Boise) and the white-knuckle high-end to match.  :D
   

From what I can see, the Rouleur is a true double; so youcan't just add a
chainring. I don't have much experience with the external bearing cranksets,
but I guess you can re-use the external bearings? SRAM Attack should already
be 3x9 capable. The front derailleur will definitely have to go, but you might
get lucky on the back - if the cage on the rear isn't obviously, _really_
short, then it might work. You can always leave it for now and replace it if
you see it's not taking up enough chain when you're in granny.

So at this point you're down to:
* Crankset
* Front Der
* Possibly Rear Der

------ Original Message ------
Received: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 03:59:31 PM EDT
From: "zipididoda2" <rocoraco@...>
To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BaronOwners] Re: Changing from a double to a triple

> Thanks for responding John.  The bike has a Truvativ Rouleur Crank with
53/39 chainrings.  Shimano FD-R440 front derailler and Shimano 105 rear
derailler. Sram Attack shifters. Not sure on the bottom bracket - might be a
Truvativ GXP.
>
> Roland
>
> --- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "John Foltz" <john.foltz@...> wrote:
> >
> > It depends on what's already on your bike. Worst case is:
> >
> > * bottom bracket
> > * crank set
> > * front derailleur
> > * rear derailleur
> > * shifter
> >
> > You might get lucky and your current rear derailleur may have enough
range.
> > Also, you may already have shifters with the capability to shift between
3
> > chainrings.
> >
> > ------ Original Message ------
> > Received: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:27:11 PM EDT
> > From: "zipididoda2" <rocoraco@...>
> > To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [BaronOwners] Changing from a double to a triple
> >
> > > What is involved in changing from a double chainring to a triple on the
> > Baron?  Do you have to change the entire crankset and front derailler?
Is
> > that all you need to do?  Has anybody done this who can give me an idea as
to
> > the approx cost involved?
> > >
> > > Thanks - Roland
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

Thanks for responding John.  The bike has a Truvativ Rouleur Crank with 53/39
chainrings.  Shimano FD-R440 front derailler and Shimano 105 rear derailler.
Sram Attack shifters. Not sure on the bottom bracket - might be a Truvativ GXP.

Roland

--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "John Foltz" <john.foltz@...> wrote:
>
> It depends on what's already on your bike. Worst case is:
>
> * bottom bracket
> * crank set
> * front derailleur
> * rear derailleur
> * shifter
>
> You might get lucky and your current rear derailleur may have enough range.
> Also, you may already have shifters with the capability to shift between 3
> chainrings.
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> Received: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:27:11 PM EDT
> From: "zipididoda2" <rocoraco@...>
> To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BaronOwners] Changing from a double to a triple
>
> > What is involved in changing from a double chainring to a triple on the
> Baron?  Do you have to change the entire crankset and front derailler?  Is
> that all you need to do?  Has anybody done this who can give me an idea as to
> the approx cost involved?
> >
> > Thanks - Roland
> >
> >
>

It depends on what's already on your bike. Worst case is:

* bottom bracket
* crank set
* front derailleur
* rear derailleur
* shifter

You might get lucky and your current rear derailleur may have enough range.
Also, you may already have shifters with the capability to shift between 3
chainrings.

------ Original Message ------
Received: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:27:11 PM EDT
From: "zipididoda2" <rocoraco@...>
To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BaronOwners] Changing from a double to a triple

> What is involved in changing from a double chainring to a triple on the
Baron?  Do you have to change the entire crankset and front derailler?  Is
that all you need to do?  Has anybody done this who can give me an idea as to
the approx cost involved?
>
> Thanks - Roland
>
>

What is involved in changing from a double chainring to a triple on the Baron? 
Do you have to change the entire crankset and front derailler?  Is that all you
need to do?  Has anybody done this who can give me an idea as to the approx cost
involved?

Thanks - Roland

Picture :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BaronOwners/photos/album/379448852/pic/849783914/v\
iew?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "eriksagan" <eriksagan@...> wrote:
>
> typo made : Optima Raptor for sale
>
> with talefairing which is large and can hold luggage.
>
>
>
> --- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "eriksagan" <eriksagan@> wrote:
> >
> > in good condition , 1 year old ,
> >
> > location , spijkenisse , the netherlands
> >
>

typo made : Optima Raptor for sale

with talefairing which is large and can hold luggage.



--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "eriksagan" <eriksagan@...> wrote:
>
> in good condition , 1 year old ,
>
> location , spijkenisse , the netherlands
>

in good condition , 1 year old ,

location , spijkenisse , the netherlands

Have you checked w/ Coventry?  Last I heard they had Pat Franz's personal Baron in on consignment.  Being Pat's, it's got the full complement of Terracycle bling, and when I saw it, it also had the Optima aero bag setup.  Give 'em a call and see.

SP

Bend, OR

----- Original Message -----

Roland i just got off the phone with Mike Mcdowell of valley bikes and he has a
new baron in stock the he said he wanted to sell
Give him a call phone no. is 317 339 0921








--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "zipididoda2" <rocoraco@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking for an Optima Baron for sale - new or used.  Does anyone have one
for sale or know of one for sale?  Any opinions on the best Optima dealer in the
US, preferably on the west coast as I am in the Portland, OR area.
>
> Thanks - Roland
>

I am looking for an Optima Baron for sale - new or used.  Does anyone have one
for sale or know of one for sale?  Any opinions on the best Optima dealer in the
US, preferably on the west coast as I am in the Portland, OR area.

Thanks - Roland

G'day again,

I've had some very useful replies from the BROL VK2 Social forum on this
question for anyone else who might be interested.

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?p=539812&posted=1#pos\
t539812

In this BROL thread, there is a link to head on photos of the VK2 disk brake
fork on a VK2 which gives a very good idea of the very narrow form and tight
clearances. The narrowness will suit my needs very well, and it would seem that
there is enough clearance even for my Pantour suspension hub with the travel set
forward to suit the disk brake orientation. Perhaps a little more measuring
before I commit - the fork does have a serious price tag :-)

Cheers, Simon
Victoria, Australia

G'day Baron owners,

I'm looking for a replacement fork, 1 1/8" steerer, for my 06 Optima Baron.

I'm currently using the Optima aluminium alloy disk brake fork. I'm replacing my
crankset with a much narrower Q factor double crankset, which results in a much
narrower chainline than previously.

I need to gain 10mm extra clearance.

The VK2 Carbon Fibre disk brake fork appears to be a good candidate, but I
haven't seen one in the flesh.

The VK2 fork geometry would suit. I'd be very interested to know the distance
from the side of a Stelvio or equivalent 28mm tyre to the outside of the VK2
fork leg on the drive side. Hoping for around 25mm??

Anyone have any knowledge, or fitted this fork to a Baron, or have a VK2 with
disk brake as part of their collection so they could measure for me?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers, Simon
Victoria, Australia

I am looking for a tailfairing to suit my Optima Baron Raptor.
I am interested in any tailfairing in any condition for any recumbent as I could
adapt it to the bike.

So if you have a tail fairing laying around not being used, taking up valuable
space or a broken one, even in pieces,
I would be very interested. Any condition will do.

Please reply on this forum or email me at:

bradlina1"at"gmail.com

Cheers
Brad

Hi all.

I will be selling my Baron.  It's in lovely condition and comes with some spares
/ accessories.  It has mechanical brakes, a Shimano BR600 at the rear and an
Avid BB7 at the front.  I also purchases a Kevlar seat and seat pad from Kamil
at Velokraft.  I also have the original seat.  I have a pair of panniers from
Optima for the rear.  The bike comes with a spare / original rear wheel and
tyre.  The original hydraulic disc brakes are also included.  If interested, let
me know.  £700 the lot.  Cheers, Darren.

--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "F.Dijk" <send@...> wrote:
> just cycled 4300 km or so in 27 days with that

Well done! 160km/day average is impressive.
Where?
Camping or Credit Card or both?
What worked, what didn't?
Would you do it again?

Love to hear more about your journey.

I've always considered my Baron a lovely touring bike, but have only done
minimalist equipment Audax journeys to date. They reinforce the idea of
comfortable heads up rural touring.

Cheers, Simon

Optima Baron Lowracer in excellent condition. 4 years old. Sparkling Blue paint
job. Combo XT, XTR and Dura-Ace groupo. Carbon Fibre seat and boom. Disc brakes
will go with bike, currently fitted with Dura-ace calipers. Fusion front rim 32
hole. Rear 650c DT Swiss rear with hugi hub. Not used in 3.5 years, kept in
house. The bike has a reinforced frames..IN TOP CONDITION! Located in Sydney.
USD $1600

If you live in North America and would like to purchase this bike please let me
know ASAP as i can bring it with me when I come over for RAAM.


See
www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=50101

Glenn

Tonight was the second club ride on the new frame. I've been trying to spin a
bit more, although 90 is a fast cadence for me. So far, the new frame seems a
bit stiffer, and that's a good thing. Perhaps the heat treating will be good
for more than just the welds? I was questioning my speed calibration, because
it seemed I was going too fast, too easily. But the speedo was correct!

It's still going to be slower than the Nocom, which should be no surprise. I
think I'm going to continue using it for the Tue/Thur club rides, because the
extra speed isn't an issue and the Baron has a more comfortable ride.

Great observations Paul. Thanks for sharing. Especially about gear selection. I
am still working on that one. when my cadence gets to high and my lungs can't
keep up, I either stay in that gear or change up. Which ever feels right in the
moment. For short hills I push hard into the seat and power over the crest.
I agree with you on how long it takes to develop technique and muscles. I am in
my third year of riding a recumbent. It is my best so far in Time Trial and I am
sure I will get better.

I half believed the comment/opinion about flexing BBs. I always thought they
were rock solid, so will be keen to see what comes out of your testing.

--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "PaulW" <wordy@...> wrote:
>
> I'm surprised at the figure quoted of 'more than 10mm flex' in a DF.
> Unfortunately (or fortunately!) I sold my Orbea Onix DF so I can't test
> it but I will be asking some locals here to stand on a pedal and see how
> much their  frame twists.
>
> I find that I can climb 'nearly' (mirroring Brads experience) as fast as
> the best DF climbers in our age group* on both the Raptor and my P-38.
> It's taken me several years to develop the technique and muscles and I
> think I'm working harder than the DFs, but I can't prove that. It
> requires good circular power input and a careful watch on the HRM and
> the road gradient. I know that as soon as the road levels to below 8%
> gradient as it nears the top of the hill, it's time to change up and
> accelerate to catch and sometimes pass the DFs. Yes...Oddly, I find
> changing up  easier to do than trying to spin - I have strength but lack
> oxygen.
>

Hi John and Paul, I also ride an Optima Baron Raptor.
FWIW
I did discuss boom flex with a LBS mechanic a few months back after Paul
discussed it with me.
When I stated the 10mm flex that Paul had told me about, the mechanic thought
that was good and sited that many road bikes would flex their bottom bracket
more than that.

Over many hill climb rides I have timed myself using low, natural and high
cadences. The reults sticking to a higher cadence on long climbs (more than
500m) results in a faster climb time. Shorter than that the results vary and no
one cadence speed stands out.

When riding in a regular DF group on a 65km ride averaging 32km/h, I will start
particularly steep hill climbs in the front to middle of the bunch and just
before the top will be relegated to the back. Other riders fitness and ability
is ever changing and I am pleased with my improved climbing times. However,
there is lots more work for me to do yet before I reach the limits of the bike.

--- In BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com, "John Foltz" <john.foltz@...> wrote:
>
> Power is relative, and compared to the guys I'm trying to keep up with, I
> climb slowly. OTOH, I've had guys on uprights write that I climb like a
> rocket. In truth, I'm somewhere in between; faster than many, slower than I
> want to be. I think my boom flex problem has to do with my weight. I tip the
> scales at just over 200 pounds, and that seems to be the magical point at
> which riders have different opinions of a Baron -- below that point, they'll
> describe a Baron as being stiff; but above that point they're more likely to
> describe it as 'compliant' and 'flexy.' I went the short crank route last
> year. The experiment was a total failure; I was slower everywhere.
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> Received: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 05:16:16 AM EDT
> From: "PaulW" <wordy@...>
> To: <BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [BaronOwners] Re: New Baron frame
>
> > ... If you don't have a lot of power, I wouldn't
> > have thought boom flex would be a problem. The 'solution' is picking a
> > low gear, with possibly short cranks to assist in spinning - which
> > reduces flex. Even so, IMO, any boom flex is bad.
> >
>

Power is relative, and compared to the guys I'm trying to keep up with, I
climb slowly. OTOH, I've had guys on uprights write that I climb like a
rocket. In truth, I'm somewhere in between; faster than many, slower than I
want to be. I think my boom flex problem has to do with my weight. I tip the
scales at just over 200 pounds, and that seems to be the magical point at
which riders have different opinions of a Baron -- below that point, they'll
describe a Baron as being stiff; but above that point they're more likely to
describe it as 'compliant' and 'flexy.' I went the short crank route last
year. The experiment was a total failure; I was slower everywhere.

------ Original Message ------
Received: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 05:16:16 AM EDT
From: "PaulW" <wordy@...>
To: <BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [BaronOwners] Re: New Baron frame

> ... If you don't have a lot of power, I wouldn't
> have thought boom flex would be a problem. The 'solution' is picking a
> low gear, with possibly short cranks to assist in spinning - which
> reduces flex. Even so, IMO, any boom flex is bad.
>

I'm not sure what the ground clearance is, probably no more than an inch and a
half at the spoiler behind the front wheel. It's off the ground just enough to
not hit the ground if you get a flat and are on the rim. My fork seems to have
a bit more room than most, and I think it would take a  20x1.25 tire. Most
that I've seen can only take a Conti GP or a Sport Contact; a Stelvio might be
too tall. In the back, I have a 23. It might take a 28, but I wouldn't count
on it; I'd want to do a test-fit before I bought one that big.

Sorry for the vague answers; I just haven't done any measurements.

------ Original Message ------
Received: Fri, 29 May 2009 10:35:01 PM EDT
From: edd_brady@...
To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BaronOwners] New Baron frame

>
> I've been curious about the Velokraft; What is the ground clearance with the
standard tires? (I have a number of locations where I have to clear
speed-bumps). What are the largest diameter tires that will fit inside the
front and rear locations of the standard NoCom?
>
> thanks,
>
> Edd 
>
> --- On Fri, 5/29/09, John Foltz <john.foltz@...> wrote:
>
> From: John Foltz <john.foltz@...>
> Subject: Re: [BaronOwners] New Baron frame
> To: BaronOwners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, May 29, 2009, 7:23 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       ------ Original Message ------
>
> Received: Fri, 29 May 2009 03:16:40 PM EDT
>
> From: Than Man <than_is_here@ yahoo.com>
>
> To: BaronOwners@ yahoogroups. com
>
> Subject: Re: [BaronOwners] New Baron frame
>
>
>
> > John,
>
> >
>
> > You are a strong rider. No wonder you cracked your frame. So  you say a
VK
>
> is faster than the Baron?
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
>
> The Baron is pretty good on flat ground, but I've found that one of my
>
> problems in hills is that I flex the boom. I don't have enough power that I
>
> can afford to do that. The VK is a lot stiffer. BTW, it is a Velokraft but
it
>
> is not a VK2.
>
>
>
> http://tinyurl. com/mad66r
>
>
>
> What are your plans for rides this year? Chris and I want to do BRAT, as
well
>
> as Hilly Hundred.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>