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Remember don't try to rush the process of learning the sport. Allow yourself the time to enjoy the sport. I think there is a major difference between trying to learn too fast, and having an accelerated learning curve. Try to have some fun, limit your sessions to specific goal oriented routines, and don't worry so much if you don't notice a dramatic and immediate improvement. Keep an eye on the bigger picture!
I used to use the analogy of the elite tennis player, which I suppose is just as appropriate now given the recent conclusion of the Aussie Open! The elite tennis player is not developed overnight. Aspects of a tennis player's game develop over a period of time. The serve is an example of this progression, so a tennis kid just starting out at a tennis camp would not learn how to serve from five feet behind the service line. Instead, they are brought directly behind the net, and as they progress, they move farther and farther away from the net until eventually they are able to serve from behind the service line.
The same concept is true with archery, it's just that we don't have as many good analogies! You must keep in mind that you are still close to the "net," so to speak, and with steady, deliberate progression, you will gradually move farther and farther from the net. Translated into archery terms; your groups will gradually tighten over time with consistent effort.
With all that in mind, remember that by and large when you get inconsistent results it is primarily due to inconsistent execution. Because even if your bow was set up incorrectly and even if you have mismatched arrows, as long as your execution is consistent, you will group your arrows. Grouping is not so much a function of tune, but more a function of consistent execution of the shot process. Obviously, the more you are consistent, the more you can benefit from having finely tuned equipment. This is why I always stress not to spend too much time worrying about equipment early on, it's like a new tennis kid spending time worrying about what string tension he should have on his racket--it's not going to impact your game!
This is so easy for me to type! But you will find out that it can be a challenge to incorporate into your routine an atmosphere of deliberateness. What I mean by this is that as you spend time on the range, shoot in clubs, visit archery shops, and participate in tournaments, you will be exposed to a multitude of opinions... Some correct and some not so... "applicable." So it's very easy to lose track of a plan, to break down and try this guys suggestions and that guys ideas. Having a deliberate sense about your archery means that you take some command of how you are learning. That doesn't mean you ignore everyone's input, but it does mean you know when to set it aside and you especially don't make dramatic changes in short periods of time, or changes that don't coincide with where you are currently positioned in your skill development.
However, this is all relative to a degree.. I mean if a Korean national coach flew out to meet with you and in the process of working with him he were to give you a laundry list of changes to you technique, you would know to listen and you would be wise to give his recommendations your full effort. But, be wary of the snot-nosed archery kid behind the shop counter, who might say "why are you using this, when you could have this..." It's not the same level of advice!
Of course, one of the primary advantages to having a good coach is that you can utilize the coach as a filter. Ideas that are presented to you on one or another topic can be run by your coach, who will hopefully strain out the "non-applicable" information, and incorporate useful information when appropriate. So, I would suggest you obtain good coach and try to keep the information you intake limited to as few good sources as possible.
You might want to try Don Rabska 818-782-6445 ext. 277, his email as posted on the NAA directory is archerydr@.... I don't know if he is currently coaching, but he might be able to point you in the right direction. He's was one of those few sources I limited myself to when I was learning archery, and I wasn't even coached by him!
Well, Ill leave you with that...
Best of luck to you, and good shooting.
-Dan Perez
P.S. The archery shop you're referring to in Fullerton is quite good. One of the biggest in the country. Joe, the owner is a very helpful guy, as well as Scott Mckechnie, who is one of the country's top recurve shooters.
mfdewan <mfdewan@...> wrote:
Dan,
Many thanks for all the quality advice!
First, though, I have to tell you that I dropped golf for archery.
I wanted a peaceful, relaxing sport/pastime that I could finally
master and enjoy whenever I go shooting.
I now see I traded one mind-game for another! :-)
I misstated the bow size: it is 66" (25 riser & 'long' limbs).
My arrows are 30.5" overall - the Lancaster Techs figured my draw
length at 29" when they sized the arrows - so I don't think the
equipment is at fault.
I will double-check the brace height, add a spacer to my tab and
always use the clicker - all good tips.
The nearest Archery Store is in Fullerton. I wonder will they size me
and weigh the bow if I did not buy it there?
I will also contact a Coach to watch my shot sequence.
Too bad you are in AZ. I really admire your advice and clarity.
Many thanks and I'll report back on my progress.
Marty
Torrance, CA
--- In AskArcheryCoach@yahoogroups. , Daniel Perez <bowcoach@..com .>
wrote:
>
> Marty,
>
> A couple things for you to think about...
>
> 1: Your setup was done via Lancaster archery supply based on 28#
limbs, which are rated normally @ 28 inches of draw. A better way to
determine you arrow/bow match is to take your bow into a shop and
have them measure your draw length, then put the bow on a scale and
draw it to your draw length to measure the corresponding poundage.
Use this new indicated poundage to check your arrow selection... They
can also do this at an archery shop. Since your bow tiller can be
adjusted to increase at 10%, and since I don't know where the tiller
is set on your bow, your poundage could be anywhere from 28-31 Lbs
(considering a 28 inch draw & assuming the accuracy of the indicated
limb poundage is good).
>
> You might have mismatched arrows as a consequence of only utilizing
the standard limb poundage and not your actual poundage at full draw.
>
> 2: Make sure that your brace height is set at the initial
recommended height. Which should be:
>
> For your 25" Riser your initial brace height should be between 8
1/2 - 9 1/4" for long limbs, 8 1/4 - 9" for medium limbs, and 8 - 8
3/4" for short limbs. An incorrect brace height could impact the
arrows flight because an incorrect brace height means that the arrow
is leaving the string at an incorrect time, thus clearance problems
could result. The brace height should always be the same every time
you shoot, so get in the habit of checking it. Once you have
developed some consistency you can learn to fine tune the brace
height, but for now just set it somewhere within the above range for
your specific set-up. Note: You indicated that your bow was 60" long,
which is not possible with Hoyt limbs and risers.
>
> 3: I strongly recommend a spacer to be used with your tab. Shooting
without a spacer presents a lot of problems, one being that of
duplication. By that I mean if you could measure the force applied on
the nock while at full draw from your index and middle fingers you
would find that you cannot duplicate the exact amount of force in the
same position on the nock every single shot, thus not using a spacer
introduces a fair amount of inconsistency to each shot. Having a good
spacer that's comfortable and works as intended will eliminate "all"
force that would have been applied by your fingers to the nock, thus
reducing a variable of inconsistency.
>
> Also do not use the shelf provided with your tab.
>
> 4: Have you trimmed your tab correctly? I would suggest you contact
a coach who is familiar with recurves and have him/her take a look at
your tab. You can conduct some simple powder tests on the tab to
determine if it needs to be trimmed or if it has already been trimmed
too much. There are other sources on this topic as well.
>
> 5: I recommend that you get in the habit of using you clicker all
the time. Not using the clicker is the same as warming up without
stabilizers, then practicing with them on. The whole process you have
described is not conducive to consistency and duplicity! And that's
about 95% of the sport. If you are still trying to master the clicker
then I recommend that be a focus area for a few practice sessions.
Read and follow the instructions on my guide to the clicker, which is
a document posted on the group page. incorporate the practice routine
outlined in that document.
>
> 6: Hire a coach for a day and have him look over your shot
sequence. Since you are learning now, it will be common for there to
be many inconsistencies which will influence arrow flight. It's just
too difficult for me to speculate on every possible variable that
might be your problem, when in fact it is most likely a combination
of things anyhow.
>
> Well, I hope this was of some help to you. Best of luck.
>
> -Dan
>
>
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