Marty,

A couple things for you to think about...

1: Your setup was done via Lancaster archery supply based on  28# limbs, which are rated normally @ 28 inches of draw. A better way to determine you arrow/bow match is to take your bow into a shop and have them measure your draw length, then put the bow on a scale and draw it to your draw length to measure the corresponding poundage. Use this new indicated poundage to check your arrow selection... They can also do this at an archery shop.  Since your bow tiller can be adjusted to increase at 10%, and since I don't know where the tiller is set on your bow, your poundage could be anywhere from 28-31 Lbs (considering a 28 inch draw & assuming the accuracy of the indicated limb poundage is good).

You might have mismatched arrows as a consequence of only utilizing the standard limb poundage and not your actual poundage at full draw.

2: Make sure that your brace height is set at the initial recommended height. Which should be:

For your 25" Riser your initial brace height should be between 8 1/2 - 9 1/4” for long limbs, 8 1/4 - 9” for medium limbs, and 8 - 8 3/4” for short limbs. An incorrect brace height could impact the arrows flight because an incorrect brace height means that the arrow is leaving the string at an incorrect time, thus clearance problems could result. The brace height should always be the same every time you shoot, so get in the habit of checking it. Once you have developed some consistency you can learn to fine tune the brace height, but for now just set it somewhere within the above range for your specific set-up. Note: You indicated that your bow was 60" long, which is not possible with Hoyt limbs and risers.

3: I strongly recommend a spacer to be used with your tab. Shooting without a spacer presents a lot of problems, one being that of duplication. By that I mean if you could measure the force applied on the nock while at full draw from your index and middle fingers you would find that you cannot duplicate the exact amount of force in the same position on the nock every single shot, thus not using a spacer introduces a fair amount of inconsistency to each shot. Having a good spacer that's comfortable and works as intended will eliminate "all" force that would have been applied by your fingers to the nock, thus reducing a variable of inconsistency.

Also do not use the shelf provided with your tab.

4: Have you trimmed your tab correctly? I would suggest you contact a coach who is familiar with recurves and have him/her take a look at your tab. You can conduct some simple powder tests on the tab to determine if it needs to be trimmed or if it has already been trimmed too much. There are other sources on this topic as well.

5: I recommend that you get in the habit of using you clicker all the time. Not using the clicker is the same as warming up without stabilizers, then practicing with them on. The whole process you have described is not conducive to consistency and duplicity! And that's about 95% of the sport. If you are still trying to master the clicker then I recommend that be a focus area for a few practice sessions. Read and follow the instructions on my guide to the clicker, which is a document posted on the group page. incorporate the practice routine outlined in that document.

6: Hire a coach for a day and have him look over your shot sequence. Since you are learning now, it will be common for there to be many inconsistencies which will influence arrow flight. It's just too difficult for me to speculate on every possible variable that might be your problem, when in fact it is most likely a combination of things anyhow.

Well, I hope this was of some help to you. Best of luck.

-Dan


mfdewan <mfdewan@...> wrote:

Hi All,
I am a beginning recurve archer with my first bow.

I was out shooting for the fourth time last Friday - I shot about 200
arrows over 2.5 hours at the range.

I was pretty happy with my stance, bow hand, bow arm and shoulder
positions and felt my draw was smooth - both with and without using
the clicker (I warm up without the clicker).

Now, maybe this is a tuning issue or maybe just a rookie shooter
issue but my arrows rarely went 'straight' in at 30M.

Usually, the nock was pointing most often back to the left and
sometimes to the right.

I sometimes observed some obvious fish-tailing but not too often.

Perhaps with experience, I'll settle down but I was thinking it was
my release that is the problem. After a while, I took my index finger
off the string and just shot with my middle and ring fingers - which
seemed to net a straighter shot.

I use a Cavalier finger-tab without spacers.

My bow and arrows were matched by Lancaster Archery Tech Support:
60" bow, 25" Eclipse riser, 28 pound limbs, #2212 Eclipse X7 arrows.

Any thoughts and/or advice?

Thanks,

Marty
Torrance, CA

"There's no human damage done by bands of terrorists like Al Qaeda that can possibly match the human damage done by governments possessed of enormous weaponry."

-Howard Zinn

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